Re: Scott's 1974 CB360 project- She is alive!!

Re: My 1974 CB360 project

If you re-ring a used cylinder then once you hone out the glaze you will remove SOME of the metal in the bore. Your pistons will expand somewhat as they heat up so they will sorta fill the gap but the stock rings will likely not fit within tolerance. .25 over rings for a slightly used bore will let you hand fit them so they are in spec with the manual and give you as much compression as possible. Plus they are meant for slightly bigger bores so they have just a hair more spring in them and will push just a bit more against the cylinder walls.

.25 over is barely noticeable and can be hand fit with a good hand file and some patience in a slightly used standard bore. You should check the end gaps on the original rings before you order the next set. If you have to bore things out then you go with the new bore size.

All this talk is killing me I'm a coat of paint from getting things back together and running. Well the frame needs a coat, the tins are still waiting for my hammer love.
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

Franz,


I see you frequent this forum also, thanks for the tip on the internals over on Hondatwins. I wanted to throw this idea out there on this post as the oiling issue came up earlier.


I'm contemplating a remote oil filter and cooler via an external electric oil pump. I think I would tap a fitting from the bottom of the engine block under the windage tray to the pump, pump to a remote filter (both located low and behind the engine) then around front to a cooler and back to another tap under the other windage tray. Past cooling the oil I'll have the ability to filter the oil, and change the filter, outside the engine. I was trying to figure a way to spray the oil up top into the head instead of returning it to the oil sump but that got complicated (really couldn't find any room) and worried about draining the oil from the lower half. What are your thoughts? Overkill? Easier to just use good oil and change it often? See any serious downfalls to the idea?


The pump I'm looking at is about 2x5", weighs 3 lbs, 2 gpm at 20 PSI. Is 20 PSI enough to push oil thru a paper filter system? That is my big unknown for now...


Thanks for the input!
Chris
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

I'm still looking at a remote cooler and a possible filter for mine but without the external pump. The issue I see with the other types of oil pumps like on 350s and 450s is that they use a piston oil pump and those really don't create any pressure. The radial pumps that 360 use are different in that they make more consistent pressure than the pistons do. For me, I just need to get things back running and then get to drilling. The problem for me with the external pump is that it may use more electricity than the bike can make at an idle, just a thought there.

ALL the old guys say the same, "Change the oil, clean the filter and screen and run it." I'm of that same thought but I have that screwed up gene that just won't leave shit well enough alone. IF I did an external Oil pump I would figure out the return to go up on the head somewhere to spray oil over the cam. It can be done, I have seen it before, on this forum for sure, go look up kanticoy's gretta build. I got a lot of inspiration from that bike. The adding in of the cooler also adds fact that if you do it right you also add volume of the cooler to the overall oil fill and can add that amount to the total volume of oil in the engine. SO you can get around some of the starving just by adding more oil. :D

I want a cooler because it gets freaking hot around here in the summer and I love to ride hot or cold, wet or dry. I have a 45 min ride to work through some really good hill country with lots of twists and turns and ups and downs so I know any overkill now I can put in will just help it live longer. I give two shakes about power, if I did I would have bought a crotch rocket and been done.

As far as how much pressure it takes to push oil through a filter, I have no idea. The guys on twins say that maybe these things make 10-15 PSI but I have a bet its a bit more, just a hunch.

Good to see more Twins guys, there are several of us over here too. 8) BTW I'm originally from CO and I miss the hell out of it. Lots of good riding up there for sure.
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

I saw that bike, I think you must of posted a link on another posting a while back, that is what got me thinking also. I didn't think the stock internal pump would have enough pressure to push the oil through a remote filter so I started looking into external pumps. My system left the stock system to provide it's function while I provided a second. Good point on the amp draw, I'll have to research that a bit more. My initial thought would be to put the pump on a switch and only turn the system on once up to temperature and while driving.


I did find a few articles on the web last night that said a rule of thumb, for automotive, is 10 psi per 1000 rpm's. So I'm thinking a car at idle is producing 10 psi and pushing oil so 20 would work. I'm thinking I'll just drill and tap in 2 AN to NPT fittings now that the case is open and cap them. That way my taps are ready to proceed if I decide to do it.


I think I'm a bit like you, can never let the original design rest....always trying to figure out how to screw it up (well, I might screw it up...you may simple improve it!).


Chris
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

I have the white and blue wires pulled out of my headlight socket by mistake. Which is drive and which is pass?
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

I am not going to run my speedometer, what do I do with the pick up at the hub?????
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

I just boiled my carbs in lemon juice and vinegar, that worked well but smelled not so great.

P2270029.jpg
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

Great looking project, that is coming along real quick.

I am just dipping my toe into my project- not having too much mechanical knowledge- I am only going slow.

Looking forward to watching your build come alive
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

SpottheDogg said:
I am not going to run my speedometer, what do I do with the pick up at the hub? ??? ?
You just leave it and dont run the cable.
 

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Re: My 1974 CB360 project

Hey how do i get my thread link under my comments , like you did?
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

I just went to my page 1, copied the address bar and put it in my sig when editing forum profile.

Just wrapped up some polishing work, not too bad but not great and not what I want. When the budget opens up I will re-visit the wheels. I plan on next winter getting some nice tires and powdercoating the hoops and hubs satin black with fresh stainless steel spokes. Maybe if I get lucky I'll find some aluminum hoops anodized black.


P2270030.jpg
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

Well I painted some of the motor, installed the bottom end in the frame, the swingarrm and slid the rear wheel in. The only issue so far is I can't hook up the rear brake.... only one rod will attach at a time. :-\ Not sure why

Next up is putting the wiring harness back in.
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

SpottheDogg said:
Well I painted some of the motor, installed the bottom end in the frame, the swingarrm and slid the rear wheel in. The only issue so far is I can't hook up the rear brake.... only one rod will attach at a time. :-\ Not sure why

Next up is putting the wiring harness back in.
Take some pictures to show us, or look at the parts fiche so we know what parts you are talking about. So we can help with info!!
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

With the brake thing, just take the arm off the housing on the back and move it a few splines to the front, I know there is a spot that looks like it lines up withe slot in the arm but there is still some wiggle room.

The rest looks really good, that front fender looks freaking awesome!! You should see my shop, I have crap piled everywhere right now but the piles are at least getting smaller. ;D
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

I'm sure you've seen the flat spot on the splined shaft that enters the drum (that the brake arm goes onto), and that is why you can't rotate the brake arm that far. I just filed/grinded that flat spot down. So, the splines don't hit it. Then you can put it in any position you want. You might have to mess with that little cover behind the brake arm too.
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

It's weird because it all was together when I got the bike.

*edit* I just bent the lever stop back, I forgot I had bent it forward because it looked bent and I put a pin switch in it that is likely a bit thicker than the previous adjustment for the stop.
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

It is a ground wire that goes from the bottom of the handle bar risers (under one of the acorn nuts) to the under side of one of the gauge mounts on the top tree clamp. It's needed if you run any bars that use the bar clamps as the bars will be isolated electrically, because they are rubber mounted, from the rest of the bike and have no ground.
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

OK, so looks like I don't need them as I am running clip-ons. Thanks a lot!
 
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