Cb360 Reassembly Help

Good luck with the clutch, hope it works out.

Where did you source heavy duty clutch springs, i need some for my 390 and have only found ebc here in the uk which i am doubtful of.
 
Sderbyshire said:
Good luck with the clutch, hope it works out.

Where did you source heavy duty clutch springs, i need some for my 390 and have only found ebc here in the uk which i am doubtful of.


Thank you! I really hope it works as well.

I got my clutch and springs from Barnett Clutches and Cable, this is the link http://www.barnettclutches.com/251/honda/0/0/1975-honda-cb360-g,t.html
 
honda-cb360-sport-1974-usa-handle-switchlevercable_bighu0231f9001_539f.gif


as a side note, if you remove #25 from this picture, you will never have the dreaded clutch pop again. also allows for a motion pro clutch cable, rather than oem, as that also causes it. (too long outer sheath compared to inner cable). makes for a nice light squeeze to disengage.
 
The locknut has nothing to do with anything other than keeping the adjusting barrel screw properly adjusted.
 
MiniatureNinja said:
The locknut has nothing to do with anything other than keeping the adjusting barrel screw properly adjusted.
+1 Correct thing to do is remove ferrule and shorten outer cable
 
Anything special I should do before installing new clutch?

Here are some stupid questions

Does the friction plate go in first or does the other plate go in first?
Should the clutch rod be pushed in or out? (Assuming in)
 
Soak friction plates in engine oil for 24 hrs. Steel plate should be at back of clutch hub then friction, steel, etc
 
I had read somewhere that it was friction plate first. Glad I asked.
Is there a particular torque the bolts need to go down to in the pressure plate?

Plates have been soaking since yesterday
 
The number 1 plater is thicker and 'fixed' to the hub so a friction is first 'movable' plate. I'll get a pic for you
 

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Yeah I think I learned that as of yesterday. I went to put on the steel plate first then friction etc. and got to the end and realized there are only 7 steel plates and 8 friction plates so starting with a steel plate first didn’t make any sense. So I redid it. All is well now.
Problem I’m currently facing now, yesterday when installing new springs they were more tough to tighten down and one of the bolt head broke off in the clutch basket. Luckily a friend has a parts cb360 he said I can take the basket assembly from
 
If head broke off it's easy to go from back with 5/64" or 4.5mm drill bit. Usually the bolt will wind out when drill starts cutting.. Check all the bolts for 'necking', very common for them to be stretched as torque is only about 9ft/lbs, they normally get around 14ft/lbs with a 1/4" drive ratchet. It's possible to exceed torque with a 10mm screwdriver socket
 
Got the clutch back together.

Is it possible to have a clutch cable that is to long?
 
cb360j said:
Got the clutch back together.

Is it possible to have a clutch cable that is to long?

they usually are and that's what causes the "clutch pop" (not, as others have said, the adjuster nut)
 
Does anyone know of a shorter cable ? Or will I have to modify this one ?

I am sure someone has tried the 3" shorter motion pro cable, is it any good?
 
If you have a Dremel it's dead easy to shorten outer sheath. Use sharp knife to cut around plastic cover, Dremel with cutting wheel through the 'spring' part cutting 'straight' so cable end stays 'flat'(careful not to cut inner wire)' You may need to cut through 1-1/2 coils due the angle they are wound. Unwind' metal piece with 2 pairs pliers, pull plastic out of ferrule and slide ferrule back onto sheath. I usually cut plastic back so ferrule doesn't sit on it as it's a pretty tight fit. (maybe 1/16" inside ferrule so it doesn't look 'bodged') You only need about 1/4" off outer but if you cut more it isn't an issue as there is plenty of adjustment
 
crazypj said:
If you have a Dremel it's dead easy to shorten outer sheath. Use sharp knife to cut around plastic cover, Dremel with cutting wheel through the 'spring' part cutting 'straight' so cable end stays 'flat'(careful not to cut inner wire)' You may need to cut through 1-1/2 coils due the angle they are wound. Unwind' metal piece with 2 pairs pliers, pull plastic out of ferrule and slide ferrule back onto sheath. I usually cut plastic back so ferrule doesn't sit on it as it's a pretty tight fit. (maybe 1/16" inside ferrule so it doesn't look 'bodged') You only need about 1/4" off outer but if you cut more it isn't an issue as there is plenty of adjustment

Well it seems more like the outer sheath/shielding is actually to short and the cable inside is actually to long.
With the clutch tightened all the way in, and the adjuster all the way out, it does not rest inside the upper cable adjuster.
 
Took the actuator apart to clean... Noticed the three ball bearings that sit inside is gone. Does anyone have those ball bearings or even a new sprocket cover with the entire actuator for sale?
 
I had to shorten my cable overall because I ran clip-ons. But I vaguely remember the exposed cable being too long as you stated. Pull the excess cable all teh way to one end and measure from the end of the jacket to the end of the ferrule. IIRC I had to take about 1/4" off that length to make it work (plus the 6" or whatever I removed to accommodate for clipons)

cb360j said:
Took the actuator apart to clean... Noticed the three ball bearings that sit inside is gone. Does anyone have those ball bearings or even a new sprocket cover with the entire actuator for sale?

Are you sure its not greased in there? Those balls should not come out of their housing.
 
advCo said:
I had to shorten my cable overall because I ran clip-ons. But I vaguely remember the exposed cable being too long as you stated. Pull the excess cable all teh way to one end and measure from the end of the jacket to the end of the ferrule. IIRC I had to take about 1/4" off that length to make it work (plus the 6" or whatever I removed to accommodate for clipons)

Are you sure its not greased in there? Those balls should not come out of their housing.

I have a set of almost flat drag bars on the bike, I did not think that going down only this much would effect the cable so much, would you advise to cut the cable to a shorter length?

Yep, I called my buddy with the parts bike before work and he said his were in there and he would drop off his entire actuator mechanism at the house so no worries there anymore.
 
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