My first build - 75 Honda CL360 Scrambler

Here's a pic of the left plug


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I turned both AF screws 1/2 turn clockwise and went for a longer ride. After a few miles the bike sputters a little and now the plugs look more brown than black.


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Another thing, I had it fully charged before my last 3 mile ride, and now the battery appears to be down 1/3.


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Try turning the air screws the other way - counter clockwise to lean it out. And you might want to try dropping the needle one notch (raise the clip) and see how that runs.

With the charging system, if you are running at low revs, it may not be generating enough current to keep the battery charged. Test it as follows:

Check battery voltage with everything OFF ..........volts
Turn on ignition ..........volts
Start bike
at idle voltage ............volts
at 3000 revs (more or less) ............ volts
at say 5000 revs ............. Volts

If those numbers look good. rep[eat with the lights on and report back.
 
I'm going to borrow a multimeter from a friend tomorrow.
Would a magnet mess with the regulator/rectifier? I'm holding my seat down with those strong moon magnets which are right above the R/R.


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Do you have electronic ignition or points? If points, check to make sure they aren't grounding to the points cover.
 
djsmiles said:
points, how would I go about doing that?


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Often, you can see a mark where the points arc to the cover. There's a certain way you have to have the wires screwed on to the points spring to keep them far enough away from the cover that they don't arc. Try running it without the cover and see if there is a change. What you describe is what happens when they're grounding out. It will make it drop a cylinder, it will totally lack power and not want to go much over 35 - 45mph, and it will appear to be running super rich if you go long enough. I paint the inside of my cover with liquid tape to help keep it from happening.
 
teazer said:
Try turning the air screws the other way - counter clockwise to lean it out. And you might want to try dropping the needle one notch (raise the clip) and see how that runs.

With the charging system, if you are running at low revs, it may not be generating enough current to keep the battery charged. Test it as follows:

Check battery voltage with everything OFF ..........volts
Turn on ignition ..........volts
Start bike
at idle voltage ............volts
at 3000 revs (more or less) ............ volts
at say 5000 revs ............. Volts

If those numbers look good. rep[eat with the lights on and report back.
360 doesn't have an air screw, what is fuel screw setting at present? (lightly seat it and back out 3/4~1-1/2 turns)
 
What you talking about Lewis?

oops. I forgot that they came with CV carbs, so the screw is a mixture screw and out=richer, in=leaner.

He still needs to diagnose the charging system though.
 
I have the AF screws 1 full turn out which made the spark plugs look better as seen in the pic above. I fully charged the battery and the multimeter displays 13.11 with the key off. 13.09 with the key on (lights on) and stays around 13.10 with the engine running, no matter the RPM's. My lights are all wired to be on all the time so I can't test it without the lights off. I'm going to ride it and test again and report back.
 
I just rode it a couple miles and came back. The multimeter now reads 13.05 in all stages; key off, key on, and bike running. The idle is still higher than it should be and it pops once in a while during revving.
Hey Irk Miller, last night I took the points cover off and noticed a light black smudge where the wires connect on the bottom of the right point. So I lined the whole inside of the cover in black electrical tape but that didn't seem to make a difference.
 
It must be charging a little or battery would be lower voltage. It may not be charging enough though? You need to move meter leads to measure AMP's (10 amp scale) and see what your really getting into battery
 
I looked at my wiring diagram and found out that the wire coming from the ignition with the fuse inline was connected to the outside tab of the regulator/rectifier when it should have been connected to the center tab. Now when I rev the engine the volts increase as they should.
BUT when testing the R/R (that's a lot less to type) I get 13 volts from all three tabs even with the key off. Does that mean the R/R is bad?
 
It's normal to see voltage on the DC output pole, but you shouldn't have any voltage on the AC poles unless the engine is turning.
 
So does that mean the R/R is allowing current through when it shouldn't and needs replaced or am I barking up the wrong tree?
The first half mile it seemed to run decent but then it started cutting out. Would someone PLEASE watch this video, listen to the bike and let me know what you think is wrong?
https://youtu.be/MCTJRFVD30Y


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