'74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna - "Done"!

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

87 octane is still E10. Go to the marina and buy 87octane. No road tax and no ethanol. Ethanol is akin to putting vinegar in your veins or a cactus in your arse. Seemed like a good idea in the 1970's but not now that we aren't all on PCP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

I don't usually give away trade secrets but....
Read this for fun: http://www.bloomberg.com/bw/lifestyle/content/may2009/bw20090514_058678.htm

And, this to be amazed: http://motocrossactionmag.com/news/racers-guide-to-the-hierarchy-of-motocross-racing-fuels-2


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

I know 'E' rated fuels are EVIL and the only people who benefit from them are selling corn to make ethanol (usually the 'middle man' )

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

Back in town after a couple weeks in Texas...

Time to get the ol' girl running right. Got some 3mm threaded rod to pull back and reset the cam chain tensioner.

When setting the cam chain tension, the manual says to position the engine 'after 90* A.T.D.C.' On the L cylinder compression stroke. Maybe I'm over thinking this, but the way it's worded is confusing.

When I set it originally, I turned the engine over until the L cyl intake valve opened and closed, then lined up the LT mark on the generator rotor to the mark on the stator. THEN turned the rotor an additional 90*, and loosened the cam chain tensioner locking bolt. Is this the correct engine position for setting cam chain tension, or am I mucking something up here?

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

The exact degrees of the crank isn't so important. The idea is that that all four cam lobes are positioned so that there is no compression on the valve springs (which can put tension onto the cam chain). All lobes should be pointed roughly downward.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

Got it. So essentially there should be clearance between the lobe and the top of the valve/spring on all four valves, so they would all be slightly lifted when adjusting the cam chain.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

Exactly.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

Thanks for clarification. Going to readjust valves and cam chain and see how she runs tomorrow.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

Sonreir said:

The exact degrees of the crank isn't so important. The idea is that that all four cam lobes are positioned so that there is no compression on the valve springs (which can put tension onto the cam chain). All lobes should be pointed roughly downward.

Click to expand...

Thanks I didnt know this.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

That's why when you are trying to set the left side timing the engine wants to run past. IF you just set the left side to LT on compression and let go you may notice that the engine will end up about 90 degrees past when it stops.

Another thing I do with mine is once the engine is done rotating I turn engine just a hair more to tighten up the front of the chain since the tensioner tightens the back side.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

frogman said:

Another thing I do with mine is once the engine is done rotating I turn engine just a hair more to tighten up the front of the chain since the tensioner tightens the back side.

Click to expand...

+1

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna - Working out the kinks

After readjusting the tappet clearances, I moved on to the cam chain. Loosened the locking bolt, threaded in 3mm rod, attached vice grips and used a pry bar to compress the springs. Oddly enough, the tensioner only moved about 1/4"-3/8". I used a long pry bar and a good deal of force, but the push rod seemed to contact something that caused it to stop from pulling back any further. What worries me is that when I initially installed, I used a big set of channel locks to compress the springs, and I was able to get quite a bit of movement, maybe ~1". I pulled it back as much as possible and tightened the locking nut, repositioned crank so valves were slack and loosened locking bolt. No noticeable noise when the tensioner was released, so I'm assuming something is causing it to bind up, though I can't think of how it could've gotten bound after I sealed the cases. It was functioning fine then...

Anybody have any ideas? I'd really rather not split the cases again.

On another annoying note, I pulled the oil transfer piece to open it up a bit more (re: PJ's top end oiling mod), and broke the damn stopper ring. Honda discontinued them but luckily I found one on eBay for a few bucks, only downside is it won't arrive for another week. Someday I'll enjoy working on this bike again... maybe

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

If the bolt that holds the tension rod/Plunger is removed, the plunger will travel much further then if the bolt is just loose. The plunger has a limited travel as the flat part of the plunger is limited in length and will restrict the total travel. In addition, if the tensioner hasn't worn excessively, "tight" may be only 1/2 the total avaialble travel. You are starting from the midpoint, not the entire travel available.

Unlike the older CB350 with 2 rollers, our tensioner is a piece of arced spring steel covered in hard rubber....It doesn't hit the end of travel solidly like 2 rollers would.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna (renamed) and First Ride!

Mydlyfkryzis said:

If the bolt that holds the tension rod/Plunger is removed, the plunger will travel much further then if the bolt is just loose. The plunger has a limited travel as the flat part of the plunger is limited in length and will restrict the total travel. In addition, if the tensioner hasn't worn excessively, "tight" may be only 1/2 the total avaialble travel. You are starting from the midpoint, not the entire travel available.

Unlike the older CB350 with 2 rollers, our tensioner is a piece of arced spring steel covered in hard rubber....It doesn't hit the end of travel solidly like 2 rollers would.

Click to expand...

This 360 had the 'improved' tensioner installed from Honda (indicated on the engine number plate). Only thing that bothers me is the small amount of travel when I'm manually backing the push rod off. I should be able to back it off significantly, compressing the two springs on the push rod.

I fully removed the stopper bolt while trying to compression the tensioner push rod.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna - Workin' out the kinks

No real need to back the rod off much, you just want to make sure that it still moves before you let loose.

Not even supposed to mess with the rod unless you need to remove the tensioner really. I have a feeling that if you pull it too far out the rubber damper in the top holder could fall out. Or something else.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna - Workin' out the kinks

Got her all back together and fired her up. Ran like shit. Pulled the carbs and saw that the throttle plates are clearly out of sync, although the sync gauge read 24mg/Hg. Dunno if somethings seriously up with these carbs or my gauge is out of whack.

So i got em bench synced again and back in, rechecked the timing, and now she's idling smooth. Only thing is the idle is up around 1,800 with the idle speed screw out all the way.

This damn thing is so inconsistent it's driving me up the walls.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna - Workin' out the kinks

Did you take the butterfly plates off of the shaft?

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna - Workin' out the kinks

I haven't. Those and choke plates have been on since I've owned it.

Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna - Workin' out the kinks

swap the gauges from carb to carb. that will tell you if the discrepancy lies in the carbs or gauges.