Acewell 2853 setup

thwrightstuff

thwrightstuff

"Trust me, I'm an engineer"
I have a number of questions on setting up n Acewell 2853. The installation went pretty smoothly, but now I'm trying to customize it for my bike. I can't seem to find anything useful either by searching forums or by contacting Acewell directly.

Speedo issues: No matter what, my speedo doesn't give me a proper readout. I've tried all of the suggested sizes in the manual, but none work. Even the 15inch wheel size nearly doubles my actual speed, this doesn't make any sense. This is the speedometer cable I am using: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/acewell-2853-digital-speedometer-cable-for-honda-cb-cl-and-yamaha-motorcycles.html

Tachometer: I'm using the yellow induction wire that came with the set. No matter how many or how few wraps around the spark wire I make, it always seems jumpy. It runs best with 1 full wrap around, but it still jumps around and when I rev up, it tells me 0 rpms. There must be a proper way to get my rpms on this unit, anybody have any ideas? Which rpm setting should I use for my bike: 80 CB650C. The options seem so illogical to me.

Random settings: Scrolling through the setup menu in the unit can get slightly confusing. After you set the circumference, there's an option that says "P-001". What does this mean? The manual doesn't say anything about this. I don't have, nor care to, wire up the fuel gauge on this unit. Is there a way to make the fuel gauge not blink constantly on the empty? It's a little annoying and I'd rather it just not say anything at all.
 
For the tach, I suldered the wire to the yellow or blue wire that goes to the coil with a 1k resistor in between. Works perfect.

Not familiar with your bike. What's the size of the front rim?

I left the fuel gauge wire and my light does not blink
 
Wow, I just got this. My bad. I think my front rim is 19inches? But when I type in the measurements for that in the acewell, it doesn't work at all. By yellow or blue wire, do you mean at one of the two coils the spark plugs connect to?
 
I haven't worked with that speedo before, but you usually have to enter the circumference, not the diameter. It should take into account the size of the tire as well as the wheel.
 
My issue is that I am using the mechanical to digital conversion cable. I am using the old mechanic speed pick up the bike once had installed. I don't know what the ratio is or anything. I hate to do it like this, but I fear my only real option is to use trial and error. Set it to one setting, have a friend ride next to me with a working speedo and then calibrate from there. Does anybody have a better idea?

Here is the cable I'm using: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/acewell-2853-digital-speedometer-cable-for-honda-cb-cl-and-yamaha-motorcycles.html
 
I thought most older Hondas have the 2240:60 ratio for speedometers. Could be wrong though, so don't take it for fact.
 
Can you see the speed-o gear? If you can rotate the wheel and count how often it spins vs. the wheel.

I've got to install one of these sometime hopefully this winter, so please keep us posted!

Cheers
 
If I recall correctly mine's set to 720 for Speedo. I'd have to double check, using the same cable with 19" front rim
 
So I kept digging around for an easy answer and I found one. I found out on the Dime City Cycles website, some of the reviews for my cable mentioned the proper circumference settings. For the bikes that use this specific cable: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/acewell-2853-digital-speedometer-cable-for-honda-cb-cl-and-yamaha-motorcycles.html, the circ. setting is 719mm. I downloaded a speedometer app to verify this and it's dead on. I think 720 would effectively give you the same numbers. I hope this helps!

Now on to other questions. There are two settings that confuse me. What does "P-001" mean in the setup menu and what does "r100" mean? These numbers can change, but I want to set them properly if they will enhance the performance of this speedometer.
 
Did some searching, P-001 seem to be the signal divider for your speedo, you should be safe leaving it at 1

Found this as well.. seems pretty helpful and there is some guidance on a jumping tach..
http://www.acewell.co.uk/FAQ/index.htm

Can't find anything on the r100.. what point in the sequence does it come up? any other indicators on?

Cheers
 
So is this signal divider just a way of setting up the unit to that it will display current and max speed on the same screen?

Thanks Grazzz, you're right, it looks like the "r100" is the resistor setting for the fuel gauge. Something I might like to install later on if I can find a tank to set it up easily with.

Now my only issue is getting my tach set up properly to read a steady rpm. I'm going to try


Djfob said:
For the tach, I suldered the wire to the yellow or blue wire that goes to the coil with a 1k resistor in between. Works perfect.

Not familiar with your bike. What's the size of the front rim?

I left the fuel gauge wire and my light does not blink
Click to expand...

Thanks djfob, I am going to try this out and see if this works for me. Maybe later on this week. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
I think it so you could set up the magnetic sensor with say three magnets then just set P to P-003 and the circumference properly. Probably won't work as well with the cable set up you have so I'd just set it to 1 and change the circumference to make it all work.
 
Hmm do you mean between the spark units and the coils or between the coils and the spark plugs? Why would it matter which coil I use? As long as I pick the correct wire going to the coil, right? I have to do this this weekend or maybe tonight after work. I'll be sure to let you know what happens.
 
Yeah - wrap the yellow wire around the spark plug cable between the coil and the spark plug - give it about 5 wraps - tape it down and try to do it with neat turns next to each other but not overlapping. When you set the tach pickup on the gauge itself you need to know if it is a setting of 1 or 0.5 depending on whether your bike has a wasted spark or not.
 
For the speedo - I used a Honda cable (from DCC) - not the magnet system. I think when you use the magnet system the math of determining the wheel circumference in mm works but with the cable it's just way, way off - I did a trial and error changing the setting for circumference until I got it in the ballpark (the # was like 720 instead of 1900... or something like that anyway) .. then when it was close I set up a gps app on my phone and mounted it next to my speed and went for a ride - some small adjustments later and it's dialed in great.
 
thwrightstuff said:
Hmm do you mean between the spark units and the coils or between the coils and the spark plugs? Why would it matter which coil I use? As long as I pick the correct wire going to the coil, right? I have to do this this weekend or maybe tonight after work. I'll be sure to let you know what happens.
Click to expand...
Neither. The wires that come out of your case to the cdi/TCI what ever you have. One of those should have a solid tach signal. Much better than the wrapped solutions around the wire. The second option is one of your coils. You can test each one with a temp wire with a space end you can squeeze into the back of the connector to see which one is best.
 
So I soldered a 1k resistor to the end of the wire and soldered that to the signal wire going to one of the two spark coils and it seems to be pretty darn accurate! Thanks fro the help guys. I think I've got everything working perfectly now.
 
thwrightstuff said:
So I soldered a 1k resistor to the end of the wire and soldered that to the signal wire going to one of the two spark coils and it seems to be pretty darn accurate! Thanks fro the help guys. I think I've got everything working perfectly now.
Click to expand...
There you go. The wrap around method to me is not as good. What you did was considered one of the better sources of signal.
 
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