Ebay S.S. Spokes. Dont shoot me for asking

I have purchased a few sets of Buchanan spokes (XS650, SR500, R75/6, TT500, R90/6) and they're always good. It's what they do. $100 per wheel ads up tho. I guess I've spent $1,000 on Buchanan spokes by the looks of it over the last 10 years or so.
 
What I like about the Buchanan's is they lock into the hubs nice and snug which is the way spokes should.I've seen a few different vintage Japanese bikes have hub holes much bigger than the oem spokes that are supplied.
 
KICKRacing, I will have to try some of that. I honestly cant remember the brand that I have right now, but a tube does last a long time. A mechanic buddy of mine buys it in bulk haha. He always has a big tub of it and puts it on EVERYTHING!

gramna5, I have never bought Buchannan's spokes before, in fact I have never re laced a wheel before. I had a good friend that used to lace wheels on bikes and I would hang out when he would put them together, but sadly he passed away last summer when some girl decided to turn in front of him while he was riding. I sure wish he was still around, he was a wealth of advice and just a good ol boy. That's kind of why I am asking all the experts on here, I figured if I couldn't ask Al, you guys would know. It sounds like people have had good luck with them, though I wasn't aware that the hole size in the hub is larger than the spokes. Has that caused you any issue?

Tim, I hear ya. I will eventually try them out on another bike, I just have to be a little more "budget conscious" at this point in my life.
 
Stock Honda spokes for my CB360 cost over $3.00 each. Buchanan's SS unpolished spokes were $2.00 each.....So while a set of SS Spokes and nipples cost around $100, that is cheaper than the Honda OEM prices, and better spokes.

The spokes I bought are Swaged (The are 8 gauge at one end, then step down to 9 gauge) and look like stop, except a little shinier and they won't rust.
 
hurco550 said:
KICKRacing, I will have to try some of that. I honestly cant remember the brand that I have right now, but a tube does last a long time. A mechanic buddy of mine buys it in bulk haha. He always has a big tub of it and puts it on EVERYTHING!

gramna5, I have never bought Buchannan's spokes before, in fact I have never re laced a wheel before. I had a good friend that used to lace wheels on bikes and I would hang out when he would put them together, but sadly he passed away last summer when some girl decided to turn in front of him while he was riding. I sure wish he was still around, he was a wealth of advice and just a good ol boy. That's kind of why I am asking all the experts on here, I figured if I couldn't ask Al, you guys would know. It sounds like people have had good luck with them, though I wasn't aware that the hole size in the hub is larger than the spokes. Has that caused you any issue?

Tim, I hear ya. I will eventually try them out on another bike, I just have to be a little more "budget conscious" at this point in my life.

What I'm saying is that it helps the entire wheel when the size of the spoke hole in the hub is filled w/ the spoke completely so it can't squirm around inside the hub and cause wear in the hub; the correct size spoke for the hub & rim.
 
grcamna5 said:
What I'm saying is that it helps the entire wheel when the size of the spoke hole in the hub is filled w/ the spoke completely so it can't squirm around inside the hub and cause wear in the hub; the correct size spoke for the hub & rim.

I disagree somewhat....The nipple should have some wiggle room, not too much though. In normal use, the wheel flexes, and the angle the nipple and rim have varies a little. You need a little wiggle so it can give. Too tight, and it may stress fracture, of course, too sloppy is not good either.

MikesXS rims are/have the same angle of spokes to hub as stock, and the holes are within acceptable size limits.

I an am using MikesXS rims, and Buchanan Spokes made to OEM size. I had concerns too, but CrazyPJ had done it himself and recommended it too me. I respect CrazyPJ education and experience, so went ahead, ordered the parts, and they worked very well...
 
Actually I think you want clearance at the butt of the spoke too (hub end). Your wheel will flex - it's designed to, just like bridges and buildings are designed to flex. The hub also expands and contracts at different rates than the spokes due to different material and construction.

A tight fit = stress = failure.
 
Tim said:
Actually I think you want clearance at the butt of the spoke too (hub end). Your wheel will flex - it's designed to, just like bridges and buildings are designed to flex. The hub also expands and contracts at different rates than the spokes due to different material and construction.

A tight fit = stress = failure.


Please forgive me ahead of time for disagreeing w/ both of you on this.
 
the holes in the hub have to be slightly larger than the spoke diameter just so the spoke can be threaded around the corner bend,anything much oversize from that is just not needed nor is it a good thing....there also needs to be a decent fitting chamfer for seating the head.. the spokes are ALWAYS under pretty extreme TENSION and there is a need to support the bend and have good support of the head of the spoke... anything oversize from that is not correct and the loss of support to the head end and the bend itself may create a situation where a spoke takes a few sessions of tuning to finally bed in,which means the bent end is being slowly straightened out this needs to be avoided
ideally the nipple and drilled angle is precise with minimal clearance there as well
any flexing that happens can be done of the spoke itself between the nipple and bend at the hub, what you don't want is bunch of hole slop that can allow movement at the ends,that is just contrary to the intention of the design of a spoked wheel
 
Xb33bsa, you forgot to misspell anything.... :)

Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices.
 
I really like the copper hub paint ;)
Did mine slightly different though ;D
Chris-rearwheelMkII-2.jpg
 
Crazypj: that wheel looks sweet! What spokes and wheel did you go with? I like the look of the hub being painted on the inside and polished on the outside!
 
WM3 (2.15) from Mikes XS
Spokes from eBay (forget seller) Hub is for a 1968 Suzuki T305 I've been messing with for about a year
It's the second one I've done with painted center and polished outside. You can see the others in my 360 build/blog, link in sig
 
We will see how next paycheck levels out, if its still in the green I may order the spokes. For some reason my wife seems to think grocery's and utility bills are more important than motorcycle parts haha. One of you fine chaps had ought to buy my Honda Shadow A.C.E. off of me so I have some cash to keep this project going lol
 
The HF balance stand doesn't have very good customer reviews but I went to check it out anyway ( good sale price now ). Told the clerk I wanted to buy it but wanted to open package to check it out since I read some bad reviews about bent shaft and stuck bearings. She said "ok". Rolled the shaft on a flat surface and it was good and all bearings were free so I bought it. Worked out great for holding the rim while truing it.
 

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lsrcb175 said:
The HF balance stand doesn't have very good customer reviews but I went to check it out anyway ( good sale price now ). Told the clerk I wanted to buy it but wanted to open package to check it out since I read some bad reviews about bent shaft and stuck bearings. She said "ok". Rolled the shaft on a flat surface and it was good and all bearings were free so I bought it. Worked out great for holding the rim while truing it.

I think it depends on which "batch" you get from HF. Some are better than others ive heard. I think that goes with anything from there. Some good some bad. I have a little HF die grinder that i got on sale there probably 6 years ago for $4.99 or something stupid like that. I am kinda ashamed to say that to this day i have not put a single drop of air tool oil in that grinder, and it still runs like the dickens. When if finally goes out i will go buy another one. (probably will cost me $10.99 this time) and still be ahead of if i had bought a $100 one. I also don't buy HF tools for my full time job (micrometers, calipers ect), but for us DIY guys i think most things are good enough.
 
Well I just ordered them. I checked ebay again and the price had gone up a little. $108 all together for front and rear spokes shipped. I'll hopefully be tearing wheels apart soon so that I can get them blasted and powder coated and re laced. I will check back in on this thread when I get em laced and let ya'll know what I think. It may be a hot minute before I get them clear done (we know how that goes... lol
 
Don't forget to lube your nipples. Seriously - Buchanan spokes come with a little bottle of graphite lube or something. You need to do this.
 
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