Brake Bleeding for Dummies

For those wanting a more long winded explanation of how these things actually work (check Tune-A-Fish's lovely piston pic):

" Keep in mind that the one way valving action of the master is extremely effective, and that it works just as well with air as it does with fluid, so any air in front of the piston will never come back to the reservoir unless the master is bad. The air bubbles you may see bubbling up in the reservoir are from the space between the two seals on the piston, the back seal that keeps the master from leaking, and the front seal which works as the one way valve. That portion of the system between the seals is self bleeding. Everything else has to bleed elsewhere. The problem often is that there is such a large volume of air directly in front of the piston, that it just moves back and forth with the piston, and there is not enough negative pressure to keep drawing fluid past the one way valving action because the system is mostly filled with air. Any tiny bit of fluid that is drawn in trickles down to the caliper, where it gets removed by attempted bleeding and the interior air volume stays the same. You keep removing fluid but never any air. Even if air is removed on one stroke of the master, it can be possible that when the lever is released increasing the system volume, the tiny negative pressure left after the air expands is simply not enough to draw in much fluid. This makes bleeding impossible, or at the least seem that way. Nothing in front of the front seal can back-track unless the master is bad, so if air is there, gravity will keep it there because that banjo fitting is usually the highest point in the system. The reservoir may be higher but that is irrelevant as there is not enough head pressure to push fluid past the seal to the front of the piston. Bleed the air out at the banjo, and fluid can trickle down the line to mostly fill it because the air can escape (also keep in mind that most lines are small enough that fluid resists allowing air to percolate upward through it against gravity due to surface tension. Fluid does indeed "trickle down", but with considerable resistance.). More importantly, the large volume in front of the piston can also fill for the same reason. This makes the system volume mostly filled with fluid, but more importantly, not with much air. The air is very compressible, and if too much is in the system, it is enough to be able to expand quite a lot before fluid is forced passed the one way valving action at the master and nothing happens. Replace that volume with in-compressible (also un-expandable (sort of)) fluid and the pumping action can take place and you can bleed the remaining air at the caliper. Once there is enough fluid and little enough air in the system, the master can push fluid very aggressively through it. Enough so that air bubbles in the small diameter lines are driven along with fluid down the lines (before they can bubble up back to the banjo) into the calipers where they can be purged with the bleeders."

It may also be of value to see how the system functions under normal operating conditions.

Once the system is purged of air, and the brake pads are against the rotor, the fluid reservoir becomes an irrelevant system component, as well as the fluid trapped beneath it between the two seals on the mc piston. When you squeeze and release the lever, the fluid below the reservoir, and the fluid in front of the piston just go back and forth. When you squeeze the lever, the piston pushed fluid down the line adding temporary volume at the caliper and squeezes the rotor. The actual displacement of the caliper piston(s) is very small, and most of the time is not enough to actually slide the piston against its seals. The seal merely distorts with its point of contact on the piston not changing. It is this elasticity of the seal which draws the piston back into its bore slightly when the hydraulic pressure is released when you release the lever. The seal acts as a spring to retract the brake. So most of the time, the fluid between the mc piston and the caliper piston never changes - it just goes back and forth between the two. As the linings wear, the caliper piston(s) gradually have to travel further, and further until the seal can not deflect enough and the piston(s) slides a bit against the seal. When this happens, the seals can only return to their previous normally retracted position lifting the pads off of the rotor, but as the piston(s) have moved ahead slightly creating a larger volume inside the caliper, negative pressure will be created when the lever is released. When this happens, fluid will be drawn past the front mc piston seal to replenish the needed volume. So unless the system leaks, the only fluid you ever use out of the reservoir is still in the system and is a direct indication of how far the brake linings have worn.
 
I was gonna try one of these: on my next KZ build... I use a small hydraulic jack as a pump to bleed these suckerz

brakecaliper.jpg
 
The chamber behind the primary cup is filled with fluid to prevent air from being sucked past the cup when the lever is released quickly, the port supplying this area is called the "equalization port", or "compensating port" . It is more of a safe guard. Here is a more complete animation than my simplistic drawing:

Hydraulic_disc_brake_diagram.gif
 
I just suck the fluid through, after attaching the tube to the bleed nipple. Primes it, then bleed as normal. Works every time, good old lung power.
Dont drink any, tastes like shit.
 
So I tried loosening the banjo bolt at the master and got NOTHING. So... Something wrong with the master? It's from a 2006 ninja, so not sure why it would be bad. The reservoir is brand new.

The master cylinder does have a bleed screw on top of it... What is this for?

Anyway.. Not sure what next steps are. The master is pushing air as I can see a small amount of fluid getting pushed back and forth at the caliper nipple while attempting to bleed. Just nothing flowing from the reservoir.
 
Take the banjo off, make sure the MC is full no need putting the lid on, pull the lever then cover the hole where the banjo was let go of the lever, pull the lever again keeping your finger tight on the hole until you get pressure against your finger (fluid spraying past) to "bench bleed" the MC, then put the banjo back on once you have fluid pumping through... refer to any of the above referenced for bleeding the rest of the system.
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
I was gonna try one of these: on my next KZ build... I use a small hydraulic jack as a pump to bleed these suckerz

brakecaliper.jpg
what the hell izzat offa truck with airbrakes hence the mechanical ?
 
I too am curious what the heck that is off of
 
MCI bus, parking brake caliper... dash pot/shaft actuated... Oh and those are grease fittings not line ports, no fluid at all its a mechanical brake.
 
Alright guys. I realize I've been MIA, just moved from Idaho to Oregon. Bike is unloaded so I have some time to work on it now.

I don't know what the hell is wrong, but I CANNOT get these brakes to bleed. I got the master to bench sync via the finger over the hole technique. Hooked everything back up, and nothing. I tried sucking on the hose, and all I'm getting is air. Not moving any fluid which makes me think there is an air leak of some kind, somewhere... but where?

On the flip side, jumped to the rear brake to see if I'd have better luck and with the "sucking" test I got nothing. No air, no fluid.

This is driving me crazy.
 
Get it pumping fluid with the line off again (finger it), you likely lost the prime, then put the line on the master and take the line loose at the caliper and hold it higher than the master with a rag, pump the line full while watching to keep the res full, put it all back (full as possible) and bleed through the bleeder.
 
So after a lot of screwing around with a new 14mm m/c, scratching my head, doing research. I couldn't figure out why the lever still went all the way to the bar. Just got another Nissin master but this time 5/8" (15.88mm) it's hard as a rock now. Should be noted that if you have too small of a master you'll never get a good lever.
 
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