standard settings for CB360 carb

hello.

can anybody tell me the standard settings for a CB360 1974 carb.
I have bought the bike without it running, and have rebuilt the carbs, so i have no clue to the starting positions of the screws.

What does the Honda FSM say? You do have one, or a link to one, right?

If not, try this link:
http://transfer.10nix.com/CB360_Searchable_Manual.pdf

Look at page 66 for carb standard jetting.

id set A/F mix at 2 turns out.

Set idle adj so the butterflies are cracked 1/32 - 1/16th inch.

Close choke, bump starter button a couple tries, if she dont fire, open choke a smidge and try again...etc

Dont open throttle unless she fires up.

Once she fires up...be prepared to turn idle down. Quickly, she may really rev.

If she wont fire up, cause shes flooded...pull plugs, open choke, hold throttle wide open and crank her over a few times to clear out excess fuel.

re-install dried plugs.

turn A/F mix adjusters in 1/2 turn to 1 1/2 turns out and try again.

yes i do have that manual, and a clymers one.
but i actually meant the standard settings for the adjustment screws?

i have read somewhere that the air/fuel should be set at around 1.5 a 2.0 turns out.
the rest i have no clue.

What is the model of the carbs? There are at least three different settings, they have slightly different model numbers.

745A 1 &1/8 TURNS OUT
745B 749A 750A 754A 1 & 5/8 TURNS OUT
747A 1 & 3/4 TURNS OUT

Mydlyfkryzis said:

What is the model of the carbs? There are at least three different settings, they have slightly different model numbers.

745A 1 &1/8 TURNS OUT
745B 749A 750A 754A 1 & 5/8 TURNS OUT
747A 1 & 3/4 TURNS OUT

Click to expand...

There you go.

This will get her started and running.

First step is synchronizing. You will need a pair of gauges for this. "bench sync" may get you close...but gauges will let you get them set up properly. While adjusting the sync screw the idle speed may want to drop, Turn the idle speed adjustor in to maintain close to 1200.

Until properly synchronized, you will be waisting your time trying to tune anything else, for optimal performance.

There really is no "standard" setting for A/F. They are externally adjustable for a reason. As there are many factors that effect were they need to be set. (condition of air filters, Altitude and air temperature. All contribute.)

Install filters (and complete air boxes, if you plan to use them)

Keep in mind with A/F adjustors on 360 carbs, out = richer mix, in = leaner mix. Opposite of many other bikes.

Also, if you need to go more than 2 turns out w A/F adjustors...something may not be right. Air leaks, Poor filters, clogged/dirty idle circuits, float settings...etc.

Park the bike on its center stand (level). Fire it up and let her warm up to operating temperature, choke fully open. Turn idle adjustor to achieve 1200rpm. Then turn the A/F adjustors for "fastest idle speed". (Meaning = best mixture for most power and best fuel economy. Easy to start, both hot w choke open and cold w choke closed + wont carbon foul plugs at idle being too rich + wont overheat at idle being to lean) All the while, you will be re-adjusting the Idle speed adjuster down to maintain as close to 1200 rpm as possible.

So see, At the end of the day, it doesnt matter how many turns are on them. As long as both carbs are adjusted to the fastest possible idle and idle speed is set to 1200.

If youve got them set up properly when the outside air temp is 40 degrees and find they need to be re-tweaked a bit when its 90 degrees. You know youve got them dialed in tight.

Thanks for all the great answered.
So what i did:
- check the floats again
- check sparks again
- applied 1,625 turn out to the air/fuel mixture screw.
- applied 1,5 mm of opening in the trothle valves with the idle set screw.
I have a 759a carb .. So i used the second settings.

She started on the second kick awesome. But she is only running on the right cilinder. I think its a fuel problem because i have spark . And de the spark plug is dry .. And Carbon black.

A little video for your entertainment
https://vimeo.com/144541919

The second time
https://vimeo.com/144542085

And the third time a strange hissing sound appeared. The then it went away.
https://vimeo.com/144542449


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Install the throttle.

Like I wrote in my first post...you should have let her run and quickly started cranking idle speed down, rather than kill it.

Like I said in my second post...INSTALL AIR FILTERS. And not the cheap crappy pods..REAL air filters. Install mufflers. 360s like some back pressure.

Carbon (black) plug means rich. Clean the plug good and swap them to find if the plug is fouled. Or, if its an ignition problem. Replace fouled plug.

The hissing is really weird...unless shes just near tdc and just barely bleeding air off through a valve or a leaking head gasket or something like that. Ive never heard a sound like that. Get a compression tester and check compression.

Hello

Yeah i didn't show it , but the fourth time i let her run a bit and set the idle a bit more acceptable,
but i wanted to wait with syncing the carbs till after i painted the engine (after i get the second cylinder firing).

And my throttle is really hard to turn, i guess i will go but some new cables for it.

Thanks for all the replies, really helps a lot.

ManuR said:

Thanks for all the great answered.
So what i did:
- check the floats again
- check sparks again
- applied 1,625 turn out to the air/fuel mixture screw.
- applied 1,5 mm of opening in the trothle valves with the idle set screw.
I have a 759a carb .. So i used the second settings.

Click to expand...

You have the CJ360 carbs on it then. They are the later model. They actually use 2 turns out for a start point, but since you got it running, you can adjust for best point.

So yeah.
I went to work on the bike again today to get the second cilinder to fire. But instead the engine decide it didn't want to fire even on one cilinder ..
I tried cleaning the carbs again ..and readjusting everything to the startingpoint .. Still nothing. Checked spark and timing. That was still spot on.
At one time the left cilinder even gave a big pop (backfiring i guess) That whas strong enough to pop the carburator partialy out of its rubber collar (it was tightend down).
I am trying to locate a good stock air filter but havent found one in my country. Going to Buy new spark plugs when i get the chance.

Anybody have any ideas?


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If timing is "spot on", backfire through carb means the intake valve isnt getting closed. Check valve clearance, Stuck, cracked, bent valve, bad seat, bad spring.

is it possible that i got the engine to fire up the previous time, if the valve isn't properly seated?

Im willing to bet timing may not be spot on. Did you service and lube the advancer to ensure proper operation? So you know its not sticking in an advanced state while static timing. Or stuck valve (a piece of debris on the seat, may have kept it from getting fully closed, that one cycle)

If that intake valve is fully closed and seated when the sparkplug detonates it wont backfire through the carb.

Well I suppose, if there is something horrifically wrong and the exhaust valve didnt open at all...and fuel was still burning in the cylinder when the intake started to open....But something would have to be very bad to do that.

BTW did you read the manual?

It'll backfire through the carb if it's lean.

deviant said:

It'll backfire through the carb if it's lean.

Click to expand...

on start up? cold?

trek97 said:

on start up? cold?

Click to expand...

At any time. Any carb will backfire if it's lean, even the Holley on my truck. Just another condition to eliminate.

I read the Parts of the manual i am working on. Thought that would be enough. (Guess I am wrong haha)

But i have indeed completely forgotten to lube the advancer mechanism.

Going to buy a compression tester that would point out any problem with my valves.



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Hello.

I know it has been a long time, but i haven't had a lot of time lately.
Did a few tings, and wanted to let people know, and for people with the same problem.

SO i bought a compression tester.
First time i tried was cold and without some oil in the chamber.
Right: 135 psi
left: 145 psi

The second time i poured a little oil in the chambers. use a bit to much in the right cilinder.
Right: 175 psi
left: 155 psi


So next i put my new spark plugs in. did a standard setting on the carb again, and she started up.
all perfect till now.
She was revving extremely hard.
and all of the sudden the kickstarter didn't return to its standard position and the motor was maken a different sound (i think).
So what i guess happened was that the spring came loose and maybe the gear is in the engaged modus.
so i will have to take the motor out,and take a look.