China brand 125cc jugs for a CL100... yea or nay?

grcamna5 said:

I apologize,I didn't give you an exact measurement on the liner O.D. of this jug,I don't have metric calipers yet.I have SAE calipers and it reads exactly 2.450" O.D. on the lower part of this jug.

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No problem, I have digital calipers that do metric and SAE... I just default to metric because I'm so used to working on imports.

So it looks like that's not going to work, actually. The hole in the top of my case measures about 2.368" or 60.16mm. I'd chalk it up to measuring error or caliper accuracy if it weren't a whole tenth off.

The really mind boggling thing, though, is that I looked up the piston to case gaskets, and a 1981 CB125S is the exact same gasket as a 1971 CL100.

So now I'm not even sure what to do. Also the damn case is fighting me tooth and nail- of the 10 outside case screws, I had to drill out 6 of 'em because they were mangled. [Insert screaming very inappropriate language at the engine]

Nitori said:

No problem, I have digital calipers that do metric and SAE... I just default to metric because I'm so used to working on imports.

So it looks like that's not going to work, actually. The hole in the top of my case measures about 2.368" or 60.16mm. I'd chalk it up to measuring error or caliper accuracy if it weren't a whole tenth off.

The really mind boggling thing, though, is that I looked up the piston to case gaskets, and a 1981 CB125S is the exact same gasket as a 1971 CL100.

So now I'm not even sure what to do. Also the damn case is fighting me tooth and nail- of the 10 outside case screws, I had to drill out 6 of 'em because they were mangled. [Insert screaming very inappropriate language at the engine]

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You could have the cases spigot opening slightly bored out to accept the larger size when you finally get those screws out or try to find a complete bottom end(I know of a 1981' like mine for a decent price on ebay.. & that one will be able to accept an XL185 crank & top end if you want to later)for a CB125S w/ the hole the correct size.I'd go for a deal on ebay for either a 1981 or 82' CB125S bottom end if it was me;the spigot size in them comes ready made for the XL185S and it's 70mm I.D. from the factory.The cases for the 1981-82' Honda CB125S are the exact same part# as the XL185S:think> More Torque ;D for a later modification !
The cases bolt right in to your CB100 frame w/ just a little grinding in the back for the decompressor hump in the rear of the 81-82' crankcases;a pre-81' CB125S bottom end Will bolt right in w/o any grinding and have a spigot that's correct also.

I just checked ebay and the seller I just mentioned has the bottom end for the 81' CB125S w/ 2300 orig. miles for sale 'buy it now' w/ Free shipping for $75;it's complete inside the cases but he stripped out the alternator,cam chain and covers plus clutch and oil pump and is selling them separately.
The seller is 'bowtydaddy' in Jacksonville & I bought a pr. of plastic sidecovers from him and he's honest.

Well I just cut the ever-living crap out of my hand while cleaning up my work space (cordless drill trigger got hit when I thought it was locked, drill dragged my other hand- which was on the chuck- down the shaft of the brand new, super sharp drill bit slicing me deep) and had to go to the ER, get sutures, tetanus shot, and so on... so engine work is on hold for about 10 days while I heal up /get my bandages and finger splint off. :-\ At least I can still sort of type with only 3 fingers usable.

I hope you won't mind if I'm delayed a week or so in taking the jug off your hands. :-[

Anyways, maybe this is just me being dumb again, but for a single cylinder, wouldn't boring out the spigot be a very easy and not particularly dimension critical DIY? There's no other cylinder to indicate it to, and it seems like it wouldn't even have to be perfectly round. Heck, the way it is now the stock 58mm jug sits in a 61-ish mm hole and it has plenty of jiggle fore-aft and side-to-side, what indexes it into position is the studs themselves and the little dowel things that are sleeved around the studs. That hole could be star shaped as long as the gasket seals... right?

I'm thinking if one were to gently attack it with a dremel, as long as there was clearance all around it would be ultra-ghetto, but totally functional.

Nitori,
I'm sorry to hear about your accident in the workshop and trip to the ER ,I hope you didn't need too many stitches.
I think it would be possible to scribe a circle in your cases and slowly work around w/ the Dremel until the cylinder liner has sufficient clearance;you'd have to really spend a lot of time cleaning the chips & dust out of every little area of your cases later.

grcamna5 said:

Nitori,
I'm sorry to hear about your accident in the workshop and trip to the ER ,I hope you didn't need too many stitches.
I think it would be possible to scribe a circle in your cases and slowly work around w/ the Dremel until the cylinder liner has sufficient clearance;you'd have to really spend a lot of time cleaning the chips & dust out of every little area of your cases later.

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Thanks, I feel pretty dumb about it, but it's just one of those things, I guess! Actually all of the "sutures" were those funky adhesive skin-tape type things so no actual stitches, though they still called 'em sutures. Pretty fascinating to watch, to be honest.

Yeah I had figured on cleaning the case, but then that's yet ANOTHER can of worms with the bearings- cleaning the case with media blasting means you need to protect them (along with all the gasket surfaces and oil passages), throwing them in a parts washer means you'll probably wash out some of the bearing grease, some would say you should press out & replace all of them anyways, and of course that's adding many hours and parts $$$ to the equation.

Nitori said:

Thanks, I feel pretty dumb about it, but it's just one of those things, I guess! Actually all of the "sutures" were those funky adhesive skin-tape type things so no actual stitches, though they still called 'em sutures. Pretty fascinating to watch, to be honest.

Yeah I had figured on cleaning the case, but then that's yet ANOTHER can of worms with the bearings- cleaning the case with media blasting means you need to protect them (along with all the gasket surfaces and oil passages), throwing them in a parts washer means you'll probably wash out some of the bearing grease, some would say you should press out & replace all of them anyways, and of course that's adding many hours and parts $$$ to the equation.

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You might,could mask everything off and fill holes w/ rags,etc. to keep the flying junk out the best you could...

This thing is driving me up the wall, I swear.

I got my bandages off, put some less obtrusive band-aids on and got back to work. Got the halves of the case separated, hooray!

Well, not so fast. ALL of the case bearings slide easy, easy, easy... then crrrrr-unch... and stop. It's intermittent, so I think it's contamination. So much for avoiding that can of worms.

Since I have to get the bearings replaced anyways, I guess I can get 'em blasted with no worries now. I was fearful at first until I saw the prices of bearings.

But, one of the bearings says NLA according to various parts diagrams. However I see it's specified as a "6202Z" bearing, and those are cheap & plentiful on Amazon if you look online, but they say for skateboards and whatnot... am I going to have to hunt down a Honda OE part for this or will any garden variety bearing that says 6202Z fit & be of the proper specification for being inside of a motorcycle case?

Nitori said:

This thing is driving me up the wall, I swear.

I got my bandages off, put some less obtrusive band-aids on and got back to work. Got the halves of the case separated, hooray!

Well, not so fast. ALL of the case bearings slide easy, easy, easy... then crrrrr-unch... and stop. It's intermittent, so I think it's contamination. So much for avoiding that can of worms.

Since I have to get the bearings replaced anyways, I guess I can get 'em blasted with no worries now. I was fearful at first until I saw the prices of bearings.

But, one of the bearings says NLA according to various parts diagrams. However I see it's specified as a "6202Z" bearing, and those are cheap & plentiful on Amazon if you look online, but they say for skateboards and whatnot... am I going to have to hunt down a Honda OE part for this or will any garden variety bearing that says 6202Z fit & be of the proper specification for being inside of a motorcycle case?

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Nitori,
Take those bearings you have out of the cases(after you marked where each one came out)and take them to a Good local bearing house not too far from you and try to get the best quality Japanese made bearings you can by matching/measuring them w/ the parts persons help;I wouldn't put chinese bearings in anything if it were my bike.

I hear ya. I was more worried about what the spec means, I just wanted to confirm that 6202Z is indeed a specific size, and not something more general like a type of bearing. I found NTN on Amazon which is Japanese but supposedly their 6202Z bearings are outsourced to Canada for production (of all places!). So if that's going to be the right thing I'm more than ok with spending the $12 versus half that or less for Chinese skateboard bearings. The other 2 in the case I've found genuine Honda OEM.

Believe it or not machine shops in my area (and places that would do bearings like that) are very few & far between. Heck, I'm having a hard time finding anyone with a hot tank to maybe get my case tanked instead of blasted. (I know, only if they use a tank temp & chemical safe for aluminum!)


And despite the pain it's been giving me, I've sort of become attached to this little thumper. I've named it the bloodletter.

I know why you named it that.. Maybe you can re-name it after you get it on the road and enjoy it more later.

some more pics of the jug