modified, aftermarket, or custom. nothing is safe (78 KZ1000)

Don't want to bash APE but those clutches are SHIT! get it out and run a dang Barnett set.


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Tune-A-Fish© said:
Don't want to bash APE but those clutches are SHIT! get it out and run a dang Barnett set.

Ill have to take a look at those. I have been reading that the OEM clutch plates are actually really good as well.
 
I used a Barnett in my Z and it's happy. I've always heard good stuff about stock too. Tune, what have you heard is wrong with the APE clutches?

Doc, glad it didn't go south on you.
 
canyoncarver said:
I used a Barnett in my Z and it's happy. I've always heard good stuff about stock too. Tune, what have you heard is wrong with the APE clutches?

Doc, glad it didn't go south on you.

Stack the clutch plates on a hard surface and you will likely see the segments are not the same all around and I think the wear plates are too soft (grippy) and will chatter out of the box and burn up prematurely. They may be fine for drags but on the street I think you go with trusted old school Barnett and Valvoline 10/40 lol


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I've had a Barnet clutch in my Z1 for 18 years with no issues. I do not race it, however.
Barnet frictions, stock steels, Barnet springs & roller hearing throw disc. Good to go.
 
Well its back together again. I'm starting to think it is indeed the clutch stack because when i removed a couple disks it easily shifted through the gears.
 

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I'm headed down to LA this weekend. If you're at Born Free hopefully you'll see this bike in the grass lot.
 

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doc_rot said:
I'm headed down to LA this weekend. If you're at Born Free hopefully you'll see this bike in the grass lot.

Damn....I'd LOOOVE to make that show. Have fun Doc, take lots of pics. Your bike will be a hit there too.
 
Other than the shifting issue the bike performed very well this weekend. I rode just over 120 miles. Most of that was on the freeway and I was leery of cruising speeds on the fresh motor so I was driving like a total dipshit trying to modulate my RPM significantly. I have a dyno appointment Tuesday to get this thing super dialed in, and see what kind of numbers its putting out. heres a couple of my favorite bike from the show. The black knuckle is made almost entirely out of 316 stainless from scratch.
 

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The Stainless Knuckle build threads are on Chop Cult and Jockey Journal
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48039
http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=199025
 
Well the dyna session didn't go as planned. The clutch starts slipping at 7500 so we weren't able to do a full pull but he did give me some jetting suggestions and advised to go to the OEM clutch.(got one on the way) He thought the shifting issue doesn't lie in the shifter Linkage or the clutch stack but thinks the shifter drum/arm is worn or assembled incorrectly. Further inspection required.
 
Any recommendations on a quick turn throttle? I mostly want it to give the me some space from the kill switch as i keep accidentally bumping it off, but also a being able to go WOT without re-positioning my hand would be great.
 
Is it push pull? Look at Motion Pro pretty sure they have one with 5 options


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yeah i saw that one but it requires a different kill switch and is kinda expensive. im seeing a couple on Webike that are a bit cheaper
 
That single cylinder knuckle conversion is rad!

I got my custom push pull cable made up by motion pro I think. But Venhill also make custom cables to exactly your spec.

Sucks about your dyno session and the clutch slipping! That happened to both of my SRs in both dyno sessions I did. The issue was not with the clutch plates - they were fine, totally within spec, it was the springs that couldn't put enough pressure on the plates. EBC usually have kits with 20% stringer springs, then if that is not enough, you can turn up some aluminium spacers to add even more pressure. Even after doing this to my bikes, the clutch lever action didn't feel any bit more difficult to pull and the clutch bit really hard and didn't show any more signs of slippage :D
 
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