CJ360 intermittent stalling

TJGM

TJGM

Of Wild Kind...
Hey guys,
Bike starts with a kick or two and runs like a rocket. But after 10-15 mins of stop and go riding it starts to bog down and quits. At a red light I have to keep it around 3k to keep it from quitting. Feels like I'm running out of fuel, and the plugs look a tad lean to me, though I'm no expert.
Stock carbs and air box, new muffler ( old one was rusted and very very ugly ).

Thoughts?

Thanks,
~T






 
I should add that bike didn't run at all when I got it and am in the test riding phase of my first top end re-build.

~T
 
TheCoffeeGuy said:
Cam chain tension is off.
Click to expand...

ok, I seem to remember when I set it that all the valves were not closed at the mark the manual said they should be. And I kept moving the rotor until they were. It was quite a while ( and 2 kids) ago.

Thanks, I'll check it today.
~T
 
Not sure that it's your cam chain by itself causing it, but it's worth double checking that and your tappet clearances as the cam chain tension can affect that as well.

There is a specific process for setting cam chain tension. If you have the factory service manual it describes it. I make a small punch mark on the rotor at 90* past the LT mark using a square or protractor. Make sure you are on the compression stroke of the left cylinder (rotate the engine with your thumb over the spark plug hole, you will feel the compression). Once you know you are on the compression stroke, alight the index mark on the stator with your punch mark 90* past LT mark. I generally use a breaker bar and find a place to wedge it against (usually foot peg works) to keep the motor from rotating while you are making the adjustment.

I give the area where the plunger and bolts are a few taps with a rubber mallet or screwdriver handle once the bolt is backed out to make sure nothing is stuck.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Thanks,
Honda manual for the CJ360 is pretty vague for the cam chain adjustment. Going to follow your tips tomorrow over my lunch break, hopefully.
I do have to check the valves after a cam chain adjustment, right ? I'll report my findings.

Cheers,
~T
 
TJGM said:
Thanks,
Honda manual for the CJ360 is pretty vague for the cam chain adjustment. Going to follow your tips tomorrow over my lunch break, hopefully.
I do have to check the valves after a cam chain adjustment, right ? I'll report my findings.

Cheers,
~T
Click to expand...

Yes. Cam chain tension first, then adjust valves following the procedure stated in the manual. If you're having trouble following the manual, Brenden at Common Motor has posted some very helpful youtube videos on the process.

You will want to check your timing and carburetor sync following these adjustments, just to rule all of those variables out of the equation.

Since you're stalling after 10-15 minutes on the bike, it would seem to be an issue with something that is heating up during the ride and pushing tolerances out of spec. It could also be an electrical issue that is completely unrelated...

Does the stalling happen every time you ride, around the same amount of time on the road? Same conditions? Is your battery fully charged and charging system working correctly?
 
I think the elec system is fine, 14v across the battery.

I spoke to a mechanic guy and said it could be a coil. He mentioned there is no easy way to test a coil, so bring a spare plug with me and and do a spark test as soon as the bike quits. Would it not just run shitty if that were the case ?

Since my rebuild I have only been taking the bike to and from my local watering hole, a ten minute ride. But yesterday decided to do my liver a favour and go for a proper ride, that's when I noticed the problems. ( yes there is gas in the bike ;-)

Cam, valves, static timing tomorrow, carb sync later in the week.

Thanks for the advice adventurco.

~T
 
static timing is nothing more than enough to get the bike running, in order to properly set up timing you need to use a strobe.
 
So, the bike runs great for 10 mins or so then starts to act up? That's not a problem with your cam / ignition timing because that would be all the time.


Check your fuel cap is vent properly - it's a gravity feed to your carbs so it the fuel cap doesn't let it air then the fuel flow will stop.
 
Has it stalled on a ride more than once, or was it a 1 time thing? Were you able to get it started back up after a few minutes or was it a push home?


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Hillsy, cap checked.

Adventurco, was able to limp it home. Had to keep the revs around 3k to keep it from stalling. Did this to me last week. Any time I ride anymore than 10 mins. It quit at a red light and fired right back up

~T
 
Have you totally cleaned out the fuel system? Sounds like it could be crap in the fuel tap or somewhere that is partially blocking the flow..


Also, could be a coil breaking down - they can sometimes be OK when cold but break down when they warm up.
 
trek97 said:
static timing is nothing more than enough to get the bike running, in order to properly set up timing you need to use a strobe.
Click to expand...

Manual is pretty vague on this too, care to explain ? It's pretty messy, no ? I think I can get my hands on a light.

Thanks,
~T
 
Testing a coil is very simple, if you have a meter. For primary test between positive and negative lead or positive lead to frame and you should get about 3 ohms. For secondary put a lead on either the positive or negative, it doesn't matter, and the end of the plug lead and you should get over 10k ohms.
 
Ok, reset cam chain tensioner. Then the valves, intakes were a little tight . Did a static timing test. Right cylinder wouldn't light up at all. I jiggled the point arm ( I'm sure it has a fancier name ) got it working. Could have been that the whole time ...

Bike fired up first kick and idles well. Though it did before my stalling probs. going take it for a test ride some time this week, weather pending.

My manual doesn't say shit about timing with a light. What marks am I looking for ?

Deviant, thanks I'll check that tomorrow over my lunch break.

Thanks for all the help guys,
~T
 
Make sure the points wires aren't grounding out to the points cover or engine case. Some guys use double gaskets or cork gaskets on the points cover to avoid it. If you have a bad connection in your ignition sequence that would easily cause stalling...unrelated to running time or engine temp.
 
On that note, make sure the connector for the points wire isn't touching the backing plate either. They have to be positioned a specific way to stay off the backing plate and the cover. The points ground out when closed---> no light, then open ---> light. If you had no light until you jiggled the wire, that suggests the wire grounded to the backing plate.

Another thing to do to insure no ground through the points cover is to paint the liquid tape on the inside of the cover. I actually went through the effort of taking a little meat away from the inside with a burr bit on dremel.
 
So points wires were bare and exposed at the bottom, and this thing is supposed to have a gasket ?haha.
~T
 
TJGM said:
So points wires were bare and exposed at the bottom, and this thing is supposed to have a gasket ?haha.
~T
Click to expand...

Normal for there to be a bit of copper exposed at the end right before the connection, thats why you have to be careful they don't ground out.

Yeah. its supposed to have a gasket. Put some grease or oil on the surface of the cover and press it onto a sheet of gasket material or a manilla folder and cut one out.
 
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