The 'build thread' of a Kawasaki Z250 C, a total beginner's point of view...

Thanks for the comments guys - no updates, but I'm looking into getting an impact driver.

Erskine - ha put me back in my teens and I think this would be done much quicker - the uni holidays, the better wrists...

JJ - thanks, be great to follow your progress too - do you have a build thread or something? I'll be giving the chisel a go before investing in an impact driver. Sounds like it will definitely be something I need in the future anyways, but I want this screw off now...being when I have time.

and BL thanks for the link - I'm going to email them and see if they have another set lying around. Which will suit, seeing as they still have my order for the cam chain tensioner bolt which I asked them not to ship out yet :)

Hopefully more progress soon once I get the rest of the engine to the machinist for a quick look over.
 
4eyes - just a question - what is a JAP # screw? I'm looking into getting the impact drivers and want to see if perhaps I can get the right bits to come with it.

This seems like a relatively good buy:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110965389100#ht_3568wt_907

And now to see if the chiseling works.

...nope - didn't really dare to hit it too hard incase it worsened the condition of the screw, so much so that even the impact driver won't have enough to bite into.

Oh well, gave it a try.
 
There are ISO threads and JIS threads. Most now are ISO and take a standard bit. The heads of OEM screws are typically very soft and they are often installed dry and corrode in place. It a chisel or impact drive doesn't take them out, drill the heads off, remove the cover and use fingers/pliers/mole grips to get the stub of the shank out.

You can sometimes find LH drills which obviously have to be rotated "backwards" that might break the screw loose.
 
teazer said:
There are ISO threads and JIS threads. Most now are ISO and take a standard bit. The heads of OEM screws are typically very soft and they are often installed dry and corrode in place. It a chisel or impact drive doesn't take them out, drill the heads off, remove the cover and use fingers/pliers/mole grips to get the stub of the shank out.

You can sometimes find LH drills which obviously have to be rotated "backwards" that might break the screw loose.

PB Blaster and judicious use of a propane torch to head up the THREADS... not the head.. of the screw can help significantly too
 
Yes JIS not JAP, sorry my mistake.:http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-group.aspx?id=7899

http://www.rjrcooltools.com/vessel.cfm



And you want this kind of impact driver with JIS bits:http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1


NOT these:
images

Although you CAN tear some shit apart with one of those. :p
 
Thanks guys,

I've narrowed it down to two - a 3/8 inch model from z1 (http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?itemDescription=Impact+Driver+3%2f8%22+drive+w%2f4+bits&item=EM84-03800) or a 1/2 inch model from Torpedo7 (http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/T7TO4N0IM/title/torpedo7-1-2-inch-impact-driver-set#) similar prices but I'm already getting stuff from z1, so I'll save on shipping.

Any recommendations as to which size is better? I've read that the 1/2 inch will be more versatile and able to handle larger bolts, though for a bike 3/8 should be enough? Having said that, I think the RJC site 4eyes posted has been the only one I've found with JIS bits and screwdrivers. Surprised I haven't been able to find anyone who stocks this in Aus.

I've done my knee in, so taking the bike slow for now. Priorities have shifted until that gets better.
 
Every vintage bike website has a thread "Where can I find JIS drivers?". Someone is missing out on a lot of sales.
 
Lol yes I saw plenty of them. And they all get directed to RJC and vessel. I'm just curious I couldn't get any Japanese sites selling them. That would have been the obvious one for me?
 
Sham, are you still here? I just came across this thread while researching carb float height. I have a 1980 Z250A Twin, actually I have 4, 2 are spares, 1 needs work and the other is a runner cafe racer.

I admire your perseverance, you have certainly learnt a lot on your journey.

I hope you succeeded with your project and now ride it with pride.
 

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sham said:
Teazer - thanks, I was a bit unsure if I should take out the butterfly valves. Yeh there was a gasket on it, I had to rip most of it off cos it was badly deteriorated, but there doesn't seem to be one in this carb diagram I found last night:

carb_diagram.png

The raised ring that you mention is also slightly cracked on the outside, though not inside, so I'm not sure if I need a new one yet.

Cyclone - that white and black CB is exactly the paint scheme I'm thinking, though in terms of mudguards and seats, I saw this on JobCrane92's build which looks to me like a z250 - I was originally thinking of cutting the subframe and not having a mud guard but supposedly its hard to get it registered in Australia if we do that, so I think that's definitely the way to go. I might try to get as close as that as possible - I'd be happy to get the bike running and looking nice for now - creativity can strike next time :)

4f8fa428.jpg




Both my brakes are drum breaks btw, so yeh, the plan is to get some disc brakes on her, but probably not at this stage. Priority is to get her running first, then probably getting more familiar with riding, then cosmetics, then upgrading hardware if required.


Do you have a link to JobCrane92's post ?
 
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