Down under, an idiot and a 400F

You can always put the stocker on for checks then shelve it the rest of the year...
 
eyhonda said:
Follow the cafe racer "rules", only what it needs and no more.

I agree. This is one I put on my 900. But then, I didn't need to get a roadworthy ;)

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Just wanted something to contain the chain lube a bit.

cheers
ian
 
bikeboy said:
I agree. This is one I put on my 900. But then, I didn't need to get a roadworthy ;)

chainGuard2.jpg


Just wanted something to contain the chain lube a bit.

cheers
ian

Hmmmmmmm, thanks for the inspiration, really like how minimal that is. I think I can cut out a fair chunk of mine to get it closer to that and still keep it legal.
 
Went to the father in laws tonight to get a bunch of timber from his treasure trove of a garage. Here's what I got:

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Built a box, still have to put a hinged lid with a large Perspex viewing hole and cut the hand holes and install some gloves:

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Here is my floor:

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Hope it works!

Lastly got some mesh with supporting cross beams to put parts on, got to silicone a line and a light in there and it should be ready to test run :)
 
I think I am going to change the floor so that it comes in from both sides and meets in the middle, should give me a steeper angle.
 
Nice work on the box! Don't forget the light and a vac hole. Use a shop vac to suck out the floating dust that blocks your vision. Also, a foot pedal may provide better control than a trigger. Finally, add a moisture trap and regulator.
 
You really should get the rear wheel/tyre in swing am and the shocks your going to use before welding rear hoop.
I always fit shock without spring to see where the wheel is going to end up, usually higher than you expect.
I don't know how a piece of piston ring could go through oil pump, through filter, up oil passage and into cam bearing?
If it went up with cam chain, it would leave marks, plus, it would be more likely to damage other stuff.
You want to strip oil pump and check it, damage on main bearings and cam bearings shows something was wrong somewhere?
You really need to check con rod on the piston that is beat up, if big end is damaged, the rod could be close to stress failure?
I'm going to read some more and make comments later ;D
Piston failed because of constant over revving, probably from cold
There was probably a very slight pick up between piston and bore, ring caught on it and started vibrating up and down in ring groove. (you can see lands got mushroomed enough to be rubbing on cylinder walls)
Was it #3 cylinder? (#3 seems to be an issue on most Honda's when things go wrong :eek: )
 
Woah, monster post PJ.

Understand about mounting all the gear before welding the rear hoop and I did a rough test fit with the broken bits as I cut the thing.

I was planning on lifting the rear a bit with some 900 shocks, do you think that will help at all? Worst case I can cut the thing off again and weld in some extra length. I really like the look of the hoop over the centre of the rear tyre and was going to lift the rear to make it work.

I wasn't thinking straight when I linked the piston ring with my cam issue, although it still looks suspiciously similar. Main bearings are fine, some slight scuffing but not enough to cause the cam issue. There is no play in any of the big ends, but I haven't taken them off the crank yet, should I split the rods and check?

The motor actually looks really clean apart from the piston ring and cam damage, not sure where else it could have come from.
 
Yep, when it's that far down you need to check big end bearings.
You need to check crank and get new mains, those marks are a lot more serious than they look.
As I said earlier, strip oil pump, the trochoid outer rotor has been known to break (they still pump oil as they destroy housing)
If rear loop is still too low, tilt it upwards a bit or extend it so wheel can fit in the 'loop'
Your tray may be too low?
Sorry to be 'doom and gloom' but, it's better to know now rather than out on the road
Particularly as major blow up's always happen miles from home- mine was 230 miles away (in 1977,1967 CD175 blew left big end :( )
 
It's not doom and gloom PJ, I have the whole thing stripped in bags already, it's just splitting the rods too.

Haven't looked at the oil pump yet either so that will be interesting.

Been reading that you cannot mig chromoly, is that true? My new frame sections are chromoly and I want to make sure they are welded properly. Have a mate with a mig but will have to send it out if it needs a tig.
 
PJ, here's the oil pump. God knows why but all the Philips head screws are a bitch to undo, have to drill most of them out:

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Inside, some minor scuffing on the impeller, not sure if that's normal, cannot feel it with my finger:

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I cleaned out the impeller half and this dowel fell out, is it the key for the impeller? Here's where I put it back:

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That used to be smooth.
There are specs for clearance , but, 'new' pump may be easier.
The drive pin does fit in that hole.
What do the rotors look like? (pitting on tips and scuffs on 'bumps'?)
I'll see if I cn find link to 400 oil pump mods.
If you can feel any scratches with fingernail, it's definitely 'done'
BTW, you do have an impact driver?

http://www.ttr400.com.istemp.com/oil%20pump%20article.pdf
 
Yep, pitting on tips and scuffs. Replacement? Are they available new?

I have a dewalt 18v impact driver, just destroys the head. Is it ok to replace most of the bolts on the bike with hex heads?
 
On the quest still for the source of my cam damage. Stripped the crank, surprisingly looks good:

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Starting from points side, big ends:

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Worryingly the last little end has some brassy shavings in it:

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What's the consensus? Replace the big ends? What about the shavings?
 
You can stretch the rubber seal off then use a blunt chisel to 'lift' bearing race and drift it off stem.
Rods are not bushed so there shouldn't be any bronze in there, I would change them if someone bored out small end and fitted bushes (they may need changing anyway, can't really make it out too well on laptop, I'll take a look on big monitor tomorrow)
Big end shells look OK but if you change rods you'll probably have to fit new shells.
This is starting to look real expensive?
Hell of a nice motor to work with though, I built a 495cc (I think? 56mm bore) around 1986
Only '400' I've ever ridden that would wheelie 'off the throttle' (no clutching it, no extra low gearing)
Just get to 6K, back of and rap it some
 
Expensive: yep, but not too bad yet. The oil pump is going to be an unexpected killer! £175 from David Silver :(

I don't think the rods are bushed in the little ends, not sure why those shavings are there though.

Still can't find the cam issue. The only catastrophic failure has been the piston ring.
 
Stick the whole lot in the freezer for an afternoon. The shrinkage will help loosen it and you can then tap it off with a blunt chisel or something of that sort.
 
Staffy said:
Stick the whole lot in the freezer for an afternoon. The shrinkage will help loosen it and you can then tap it off with a blunt chisel or something of that sort.

Good idea, thanks Staffy.
 
If you've got a heat torch to heat up the lower race quickly once you take it out the freezer that'll help too.

Just make sure it's hidden behind the frozen mixed veges in the freezer or SWMBO might have you in the doghouse!
 
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