1974 CB360 - first bike/build

MiniatureNinja said:
are you missing the return stop for the rear brake pedal or was there just not enough adjustment to keep it from hitting?

Not enough room to adjust. If I brought the stop forward (pushing the pedal down) it shortened the activation distance too much once I cleared the pipes. I tried to compensate by adjusting the brake rod, but there just wasn't enough room between the two that would keep the pedal from hitting the pipes and let my rear wheel spin without dragging on the pads.
 
huck_finn said:
Not enough room to adjust. If I brought the stop forward (pushing the pedal down) it shortened the activation distance too much once I cleared the pipes. I tried to compensate by adjusting the brake rod, but there just wasn't enough room between the two that would keep the pedal from hitting the pipes and let my rear wheel spin without dragging on the pads.

bummer. I've been hearing and seeing more and more that the MAC stuff isn't "bolt on" like they say it is
 
It is a bolt on piece, BUT, you will have to 'adjust' with a 4x2 as a lever. May need to do it a few times after some heating cycles. Eventually the extra stresses will be relieved and you can force it into a better position. Of course, it would be a lot better if fitted properly first time around.
Pipe is probably designed for a CJ brake and just listed for CB as ports are in the same place. Should be possible to fit CJ parts but PITA to get back into everything. I have some Yamaha XS 650 brake prts that look very similar to CJ but with more offset in pedal. Don't have dimensions though to check diameters will fit CB frame
 
The pipes don’t allow for the stock exhaust joint(?) to be mounted - so there is a sizable gap between where the engine stops and the plate used to secure the pipe begin.


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I had the Mac 2-into-1 on my first 360. It was hell getting it installed every time. I could always make it work eventually, but not without a fight.
 
I shortened a few of my wiring runs, and had to extend a few (connections on the new gauges were way too short) this past weekend. And I learned to hate those tiny LED wires. I soldered some of the original wiring to the taillight, but my wire strippers only go down to 20 - so I had to very carefully strip them using a straight razor. Even with good solders, I am not 100% sure they aren't going to break. The wiring is just too small and cheap. The LEDs on my top clamp from Cognito Moto are a lot stronger - so no worries there. I am going to finish them up tonight.


 
For stationary projects I've used telephone or CAT5 wire. That stuff is really thin and breaks pretty easy. For motorcycle wiring I usually visit local supplier and buy new 18~28 Ga wire.depending on where and how it's going to be used
 
I've never been a fan of those thin wires that some manufacturer's use. Soldering is OK, but crimping is better. In either case, make sure you have the thicker wires secured somewhere to the frame to avoid putting tension on the thinner portions.
 
I couldn't believe it, but after getting everything back together last night, it fired up on the first kick. I strutted around the garage like I had just cured cancer. I am still working on the air filter design - sitting down with a guy tomorrow night to try and get it ready to print - same with my seat.

I am having trouble with my neutral light not working. Is there a trick to connecting the neutral switch? I ran a wire straight from the neutral switch to my harness, which is running directly to my gauge light. I stripped a little bit of the wire coating, pushed back the little spring on the neutral switch and ran the wire through the hole and wrapped it around one time.

And the LEDs on my top clamp are flickering when it is running. I may have done something stupid, but I tied all the ground wires together from the top clamp's LEDs since I only had a one open spot on my harness. My LED headlight and tail light aren't flickering though - they are running strong.
 
huck_finn said:
I couldn't believe it, but after getting everything back together last night, it fired up on the first kick. I strutted around the garage like I had just cured cancer. I am still working on the air filter design - sitting down with a guy tomorrow night to try and get it ready to print - same with my seat.

I am having trouble with my neutral light not working. Is there a trick to connecting the neutral switch? I ran a wire straight from the neutral switch to my harness, which is running directly to my gauge light. I stripped a little bit of the wire coating, pushed back the little spring on the neutral switch and ran the wire through the hole and wrapped it around one time.

And the LEDs on my top clamp are flickering when it is running. I may have done something stupid, but I tied all the ground wires together from the top clamp's LEDs since I only had a one open spot on my harness. My LED headlight and tail light aren't flickering though - they are running strong.

make sure you dont have some sort of backfeed through those lights - lights illuminating when they shouldn't is a good indication of a short.
 
Neutral is a grounding switch, you have power going to light then out of light to switch
 
That fixed the neutral light - too bad the green LED is toast for it now. Neutral lit up when testing with the other colors on my clamp.

I thought it might also help with the flickering, but no luck. Again, the lights are fine when the bike isn't running - but as soon as it starts up they begin to flicker at a low level. As I increase the throttle they begin flickering faster and brighter.

I think I remember reading if the harness is too close to my coils it can cause some flickering. I moved my tank and played around with the harness while it was running - and I could get it to stop flickering but only in a certain position, and about five inches away. I tried to shield the harness by wrapping some aluminum foil around it (just to test) - but flickering continued.

I pulled the rear LED lighting off, disconnected LED headlight, and pulled out all of the connections running to my top clamp. After identifying my ground for the neutral light, I separated it out and one by one tested each of the connections with the bike running. Didn't matter what I did, it kept flickering.

All of my grounds are connected to the frame, with the exception of the one coming off my stator - it is going straight to the battery.

The positive side of the stator (with an inline fuse) is going straight to positive side of my battery, and I also have the ignition switch (with an inline fuse) stacked with the stator on the terminal.

Am I just really screwing something up?
 
The filter I was working on won't fit without relocating my battery - so in an effort to get back on the road ASAP, I am shelving it for now. I have drawn up a new battery box that will keep my EarthX battery snug and reduce a fair amount of weight. Here are a few screenshots of my progress on the filter and the current state of the battery box.

The filter wall is solid - but only because I didn't feel like adding a mesh design since I am hitting pause.














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cool designs! I love fusion and it's so easy to create stuff. I wish I could make a whole bike in Fusion so I can really see how it would work and feel.
 
MiniatureNinja said:
cool designs! I love fusion and it's so easy to create stuff. I wish I could make a whole bike in Fusion so I can really see how it would work and feel.

It drove me crazy trying to work in Fusion at first (graphic/web designer is my full-time gig). Thankfully I was able to sit down and learn a few things from a drafting instructor.
 
irk miller said:
I had the Mac 2-into-1 on my first 360. It was hell getting it installed every time. I could always make it work eventually, but not without a fight.

Irk - you don't happen to recall what your jetting was for when you had your Mac, do you?
 
huck_finn said:
Irk - you don't happen to recall what your jetting was for when you had your Mac, do you?
I had PJ's modified stock carbs on that bike and it was a perfect match.
 
His modified carbs seem to be pretty legendary. PJ...if you are listening - what is the chance that I could send you my carbs for modification? Being able to run pods would make life a hell of lot easier when trying to reduce the footprint of my battery box.
 
Last night my valves started making some pretty loud clacking, but only when revving the throttle. It looks like I overfilled the oil, but not by much at all. I put in 2.1 qt (since I had the engine off and had the crank case opened up on both left and right). Could that cause the clacking?

I had set the valve heights to a tight .002 and a tight .003, and when I checked them last night after letting it cool down - they were just like I had originally set them. I haven't taken it out for a ride since dropping the engine back in and getting everything back on the bike - still waiting to print my seat out. The larger 3D printer has a cracked platform needed to heat the filament up just enough to stick to the surface.
 
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