DO THE TON

Blood Sweat Tears and Grease => HELP! 1-800-CAFE-HELP => Topic started by: JRK5892 on Dec 09, 2008, 17:19:58

Title: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 09, 2008, 17:19:58
Painting Wheels (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg54206#msg54206) - JRK5892

Helmet Bump Stop (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg54244#msg54244) - halfton / autoguy

Home-Made Risers (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg54276#msg54276) - JRK5892

Cheap Wire Clean-Up (Wire Ties) (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg54280#msg54280) - JRK5892

Bearing Ring Removal Tool (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg54344#msg54344) - Bouncer

Stripping Paint from a Tank (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg54620#msg54620) - JRK5892

Removing Powder Coat (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg54621#msg54621) - JRK5892

Installing Clubman Bars (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg54634#msg54634) - Flugtechnik

Headlight Bucket Mod to Fit Speedo (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg54704#msg54704) - liam

Aluminum Cafe Seat (No Welding) (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg55322#msg55322) - mrkil

Motor Install / Frame Protection (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg55377#msg55377) - JRK5892

Relining Brake Drums (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg55386#msg55386)  - Wee Todd

Helmet Foam for Seat (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg55402#msg55402) - sgt. slick

License Plate Bracket (with Light) (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg55405#msg55405) - mysta2

Repacking and Packing Baffles (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg55570#msg55570) - souperman

Cutting Stock Brake/Clutch Levers (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg56182#msg56182) - JRK5892

Switch Housings Clean-Up (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg56184#msg56184) - JRK5892

Building Solid State Replacements for Old Selenium Rectifiers (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg56823#msg56823) - liam

$2 Bridge Rectifier (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg56884#msg56884) - johnson_steve

Bike Table (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg56855#msg56855) - JRK5892

Work Bench (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg57181#msg57181) - Bouncer

Oxalic Acid to Clean Chrome (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg58293#msg58293) - njsoccerguy

Lighting (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg58335#msg58335) - BigBSBusa

Managing Your Bike's Amps (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg58437#msg58437) - johnson_steve

Bar End Mirrors (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg58899#msg58899) - Flugtechnik

Tail Light (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg58918#msg58918) - CThor

Cable Covers (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg58948#msg58948) - JRK5892

Rolling Bike Stand (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg59402#msg59402) - mbrown67

Tail Light/License Plate Bracket (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg59886#msg59886) - Useful Idiot

Homemade Manometer (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg59886#msg59886) - Useful Idiot

Storage for Bike (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg59886#msg59886) - Useful Idiot

Custom Cut Shapes Into Cases (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg60502#msg60502) - Bouncer

Manometers (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg60525#msg60525) - HerrDeacon

Crazy Glue Stitches (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg60597#msg60597) - Troybilt

Starter Button Repair (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg60777#msg60777) - 904cafe

Reproduction Switch (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg60844#msg60844) - Terry

Ignition Switch in Headlight (Mini Guages) (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg61237#msg61237) - anarki650

Handle Bar Key Switch (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg61400#msg61400) - Terry

Engine Stand (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg61489#msg61489) - Bouncer

Custom Seat (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg61617#msg61617) - jfsebastian

Aluminum Finish Spray Paint (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg61821#msg61821) - CresentSon

Koozie Seat (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg62202#msg62202) - Herm21

How to Cover Koozie Seat (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg62311#msg62311) - Herm21

Cutting Threaded Rod (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg63305#msg63305) - Jason TEAMSHRALP

Lightweight Corrosion Proof Battery Box (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg63403#msg63403) - Swagger

Drink Shaker Muffler Mod (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg63530#msg63530) - loudest143

Soda Blasting for Carb Cleaning (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg63639#msg63639) - Terry

Plasti-dip Coating (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg64347#msg64347) - brewtown16

Lemon Juice Carb Clean (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg64373#msg64373) - Swagger

Lemon Juice Carb Clean (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg64592#msg64592) - JRK5892

Shock Spring Removal (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg65145#msg65145) - IMOALE

Evapo-Rust Rust Removal (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg65561#msg65561) - VonYinzer

Shaker Muffler Mod (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg65613#msg65613) - Jason TEAMSHRALP

Ford Regulator (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg65691#msg65691) - CresentSon

Chrome/Black Cable Wraps (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg65773#msg65773) - JRK5892

$8 Battery Tender (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg65813#msg65813) - JRK5892

Rubber Revitalizing (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg66191#msg66191) - Zixxerboy

CB450/500 Torsion Bar Tool (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg66297#msg66297) - Useful Idiot

Coil Power Mod (Getting Full Power Out of Your Coils) (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg67450#msg67450) - Gryph

Metal Scrap Pick-Up (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg68668#msg68668) - jason TEAMSHRALP

Rattle Can Spray Gun Attachment (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg69567#msg69567) - CThor

LED Gauge Bulbs (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg70058#msg70058) - Flugtechnik

Flexi Hose (Cable Covers) (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg71004#msg71004) - MN_TX650

Taping Rims to Paint Spokes and Hubs (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg71111#msg71111) - tamickler

Cheap Battery Acid Overflow Tank (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg71627#msg71627) - Autoguy

Aftermarket Coils - Honda CB450 (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg76260#msg76260) - krukster86

Clubman Internal Wire (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg76822#msg76822) - magnang

Profile Holes (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg77083#msg77083) - Swagger

Epoxy Painting Lowers (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg80523#msg80523) - JRK5892

Cheap Motorcycle Lift (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg80536#msg80536) - JRK5892

Vibration In Bars Removal (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg81022#msg81022) - Swagger

Cheap And Effective Method Of Cleaning A Tank (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg82063#msg82063) - diesel450

Bluing, It Coats And Seal Gun Barrels (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg82230#msg82230) - Terry

Free 'Bar-End' Mirrors (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg85110#msg85110) - overdraft

Make Your Own Idiot Light Dash (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg85494#msg85494) - HERM21

Keep Zip Ties From Moving Around (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg85647#msg85647) - TDC

Radio Shack Idiot Lights (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg86180#msg86180) - JRK5892

Small Bright Led Turn Signals (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg86206#msg86206) - Swagger

Free Manuals (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg86341#msg86341) - VonYinzer

Homemade Spring Compressor (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg90696#msg90696) - goodfornothing

Rust Remover (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg91019#msg91019) - Swagger & boingk

How to Strip and Paint (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg92201#msg92201) - dixiedevil

LED Headlight Conversion (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg92853#msg92853) - JRK5892

Metal Polish (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg93316#msg93316) - malloy

LED Brake Light "How-To" (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg97848#msg97848) - crazypj

Custom Paint With Rattle Can (Rattle Can BLING BLING) (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg99114#msg99114) - tWistedWheelz

Homemade Baffels (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg99114#msg99114) - Twistedwheelz

Under $20 Halo Eyes (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg99414#msg99414) - my94f2

$2 License Plate Mount (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg99834#msg99834) - Blake

Strong and Light Fiberglass/CF Parts Without An Autoclave (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg100736#msg100736) - Swagger

Easy Polish Chrome/Aluminum (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg100808#msg100808) - msimm43

Polish How-To (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg101650#msg101650) - Swagger

Fuse Holder (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg106008#msg106008) - Maritime

New Light For Old Sealed Beam Headlights (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg109349#msg109349) - Swagger

Cheap Pre-Made Plate Mounts (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg109349#msg109349) - Swagger

Predone Sealed Headlight w/ Replaceable Bulb (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg109361#msg109361) - loudest143

Camera Mount (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg109429#msg109429) - staffy

Other Sites Under $50 Thread (http://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/173504-how-to-under-fifty-bux.html)

How To Make Your Own LED Headlight (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=33316.0) - MBellRacing

Motorcycle Table (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg111907#msg111907) - midnightcafe

Making Cable Ends (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg114669#msg114669) - Garage Rat

Carb Adapters for Tuning (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg121689#msg121689) - loudest143

Tire Beads (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg127118#msg127118) - Swagger

Less Than $10 Headlight Ears (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg129207#msg129207) - tWistedWheelz

Gas Tank Rust Remover (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg133492#msg133492) - rjz5400

DIY Paper Gaskets (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg137623#msg137623) - midnightcafe

Over Flow Bottle Holder (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg143405#msg143405) - JRK5892

Syphon (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg159233#msg159233) - interceptor

Spark Plug Tester (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg159239#msg159239) - interceptor

Butt Joint Welding Clamp (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg163513#msg163513) - Roc City Cafe

Bending Brake (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg164261#msg164261) - sebatron

Skateboard seatpan (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg164272#msg164272) - sebatron

valve spring compressor (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg165942#msg165942) - Hoosier Daddy

Tank Badge Restoration (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg171556#msg171556) - bikeboy

Painting Raised Letters (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg171556#msg171556) - bikeboy

Painting Raised Letters (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg171664#msg171664) - tWistedWheelz

Stebel Nautilus Airhorn (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg178733#msg178733) - midnightcafe

Stainless Brake Lines (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg178737#msg178737) - midnightcafe

Shock adjuster tool (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg179230#msg179230) - Staffy

Removing Powder Coating And Anodize At Home (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg183845#msg183845) - Swagger

Steering Stem Locknut Socket (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg184420#msg184420) - bikeboy

Cloth Covered Wires (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg189539#msg189539) - Swagger

Adding vacuum ports to your CB450 (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg198075#msg198075) - Flugtechnik

Media Blasting Box (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg198374#msg198374) - sxecafe

Paint Stripper (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg202742#msg202742) - 1911pewpew

Chain Oiler (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg205333#msg205333) - boingk

Parts/Paint Cooker (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg214473#msg214473) - Ethanol

Homemade Leakdown Tester (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg215440#msg215440) - perattzi

Merge Your Headers On The Cheap (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg227746#msg227746) - hurley209

Spring Compressor (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg248353#msg248353) - HelthInsXpert

Spring Compressor (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg248400#msg248400) - bikeboy

Soda Blaster (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg272396#msg272396) - DP9

Side Mount License Plate Bracket (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg273645#msg273645) - Wingspan

Tuck And Roll Look (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg273713#msg273713) - baconpocket

Body Filler Safe Paint Stripper (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg284385#msg284385) - arcspeedworks

Trip Reset Knob (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg291763#msg291763) - Nortstudio

Regal Bench Stool (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg297594#msg297594) - Staffy

$6 Valve Spring Compressor (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg303117#msg303117) - tsbigdog

NiCd Battery Revival (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg312763#msg312763) - JohnGoFast

Bike Stand, Upper Fairing Cross-member Swivel, Tank Strap Adjuster (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg316933#msg316933) - acm177

Reducing Handlebar Vibration (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg318186#msg318186) - pablohoney

Theaded Inserts (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg321142#msg321142) - Sunflash

Reducing Handlebar Vibration (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg321234#msg321234) - JRK5892, richsuz, Swagger

Resistor To Make LEDs Flash (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg323486#msg323486) - MitchellSK

Front Fender (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg324167#msg324167) - Rocker

DIY Pro Quality Paint Work (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg324675#msg324675) - ben2go

Lathe (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg324977#msg324977) - Sunflash

Work Bench (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg334410#msg334410) - dynamitedave

Work Benches (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg334417#msg334417) - ben2go

Bike/Engine Dolly (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg334453#msg334453) - Swagger

Sturdy Shelves (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg343253#msg343253) - ben2go

Regal Rolling Stool (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg344362#msg344362) - Staffy

Brake Light from Turn Signal (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg344787#msg344787) - vtwin650

Removing Rust from Gas Tank (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg347432#msg347432) - GLENNWOOD55CAMEO

Spring Compressor (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg347826#msg347826) - HerrDeacon

Electrolytic Rust Remova (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg349843#msg349843) - metropolitanhighrise

$6 Shorty Velocity Stacks (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg354195#msg354195) - montessa172

Home Made Blasting Cabinet (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg365657#msg365657) - tsbigdog

Valve Spring Compressor (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg379155#msg379155) - GK

Valve Spring Compressor (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg425938#msg425938) - Hoosier Daddy

Welder's Mask (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg426851#msg426851) - RoadRash

No Chemical Tank Cleaning (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg470614#msg470614) - Hoosier Daddy

Retrofit H4 Bulb into Sealed Beam (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg485505#msg485505) - crazypj
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Dec 09, 2008, 17:40:41
Great idea JRK, I'm hoping to have one or two of these this winter. It will be interesting to see what appears in this thread.

I love cheap and DIY.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: BigBSBusa on Dec 09, 2008, 19:40:55
Definitely a good idea.  It can help someone that is not sure how they will do something or give folks ideas they may not have come up with on their own.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 09, 2008, 20:02:22
ill start
Job: Black spokes
Cost: 10 bucks
HOW TO:
first i washed the whole wheel in simple green (3/1) and water, then used a wire wheel to sand down my wheels.. ensure that l the loose rust is off and gave a good surface for the paint to grab... again washed with simple green mix... from here i wiped the whole wheel down with denatured alchole... then comes the taping... i started with a fat piece of tap between each spoke, from there using thin maskin tape i wrapped each nipple (do this so i you can still tighten and true the wheel) after that i just stated to cover the whole wheel...
I shot the wheel in black rustolem epoxy paint... light coats, VERY light coats, and follow the directions... let it set up for 48 hrs and removed the tape... here are the pics:

Before:
(http://i38.tinypic.com/1yoi79.jpg)

After the wash:
(http://i33.tinypic.com/zmeeef.jpg)

after wire wheel and wash:
(http://i38.tinypic.com/14lq6o0.jpg)

Taped up:
(http://i33.tinypic.com/6h6a6u.jpg)

with paint on:
(http://i38.tinypic.com/2i0c975.jpg)

final product:
(http://i36.tinypic.com/9vlf20.jpg)
(http://i35.tinypic.com/2ihs202.jpg)

chrome polish to get the chrome back up and BLING'N
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: locO leoN on Dec 09, 2008, 20:53:52
Good Thread.. Love the idea... I STICKIED it...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 09, 2008, 21:04:56
Leon... once this starts to grow and get to be afew pages i can organize it and create a index on the first page so it is a bit easier to sort though... we just need people to contribute and it will just EXPLODE with posts! LETS GET EM GOING GUYS!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Dec 10, 2008, 02:27:46
this is an awesome thread in the making.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: autoguy on Dec 10, 2008, 02:51:54
not my idea twas halfton,s idea , but a sub $50 bump stop made from a german helmet, i used a fiberglass german skid lid from my local harley shop, the skid lid cost me around $35

http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=4555.0

my bump stop
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i198/autoguy5/bumpstophelmetmine.jpg?t=1227329529)



Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 10, 2008, 04:51:38
nice! it is shit like that, that will make this thread just AWESOME!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 10, 2008, 12:45:03
$3 homemade riser extensions:
ok... here is what you do:
first decide how all you want to go... pull the stock bolt that feeds up from the bottom of the tree and into the stock handlebar clamp... take that to home depot or the hardware store... get a 1 or 2 in longer HARDENED bolt that matches the same threads and demensions just longer... then pick up a box of fender washers that match the bolt (they should be around the size of a quarter or half dollar)... now take a walk over to plumbing and pick up a piece of chrome piping that matches the circumfrance of the washers (the piping that i used was the kind that is under sinks... thin and chrome, it does not bear weight it is just for looks).... last thing to get is a push chrome cap that fits the pipe. ooh ya and some lock tite
Now how to do it:
pull your bars and pull your stock bar clamps off... find the exact center of the push caps and drill that out to match the circumfrance of the new bolts you will be using... measure out how high you want to raise your bars, then just count out the number of washers it will take to acomplish the lift. after you know the amount of washers it will take measure the stack of washers (goes without saying but make sure both of your stacks have the same amount of washers)
cut your plumbing pipe to match the height of the washers, BEFORE CUTTING, put some packing tape around the area to be cut, this will prevent the chrome from flaking, after both peices are cut file down the rough edges and put it all together (use just a touch of marine grease on the washers to prevent any squeeking... just a touch) mine squeeked a bit but my dads and brothers never made a peep... just tighen it all down and there you go! 3 dollar risers! Here is a crude picture to give you a idea

(http://i34.tinypic.com/2ln828.jpg)

(http://i38.tinypic.com/2lswcpw.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 10, 2008, 12:58:34
my buddy ICE came up wiht this one... works great i use it all the time to clean up wires and get it together:
Cheap alterative to the billet clamps and other bought stuff. Use zip ties and tuding to create your own spacers. Turns out to be shock mounted too.

(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w210/icecaps65/DSCN0785.jpg)


(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w210/icecaps65/DSCN0781.jpg)

(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w210/icecaps65/DSCN0782.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Dec 10, 2008, 19:13:51
I really like the last one, seems like a good way to clean things up on the cheap.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Bouncer on Dec 10, 2008, 22:18:27
This guy:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/perfectformula/My%20CB%20750/CB125.jpg)

To take off this guy:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/perfectformula/My%20CB%20750/CB107.jpg)

All you have to do is find the right size drill bits. It is a piece of flat bar with the drill bits drilled through. Much cheaper then a face spanner wrench.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 11, 2008, 12:53:14
now that my friend is a GREAT little trick
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 12, 2008, 12:25:19
come on guys i know i am not the only one...
Mod: stripping a tank
Cost: 15 bucks

head out get a 99c paint chip brush, aircraft stripper (i prefer the liquid form)
1. pour the stripper on
2. spread it around with the brush
3. wait
4. scrape off old paint (wear chemical gloves, i like to use 000 steel wool and plastic scraper)
5. rinse off with water
 paint free tank


(http://i33.tinypic.com/s1l0ee.jpg)

(http://i33.tinypic.com/4h8651.jpg)

(http://i36.tinypic.com/5n2og6.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 12, 2008, 12:27:57
removing old powder coat without sanding
Cost 10 - 20 bucks

just get some gasket stripper... spray it down with that... let it sit for 20 min, then add a coat of air craft stripper and let that sit for another 10 min... use steel wool and cemical gloves to scrub off the old powder... rinse the part well and wipe down with some rubbing alchole
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Tim on Dec 12, 2008, 13:15:26
One thing rarely mentioned is the disposal of the stripper/paint etc.  Does everyone just keep adding jerry cans to their collection full of this crap and then finally get out to the haz-mat depot to get rid of it, or do you dump it on the wife's garden?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ericngsta on Dec 12, 2008, 13:41:15
god damn, I have sooooo many bottles of everything.  I'm too lazy to get to a haz mat depot, should probably do that before it all goes up in flames.  the last time I used stripper, I washed it off with a hose.  It was a spray kind, I dont know how you would store that though.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 12, 2008, 13:44:00
i will not comment on how i dispose of mine... lets just say it goes away at 3 am when no one is on the street
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Dec 12, 2008, 14:44:18
Seems like an obvious mod, but I figured I'd post what I did.

Mod:  Installing Clubman Bars
Cost: $25-$50

Clubmans - $20-$25
Heat Shrink - $5
New Grips - Optional - $20

1.  Disconnect wires to handlebar controls behind headlight
2.  Disconnect Throttle, Clutch and Brake Cables
3.  Remove handlebar clamps and remove old bars
4.  Remove handlebar control housings and pull old wires out
5.  Use compressed air to remove the left side grip
6.  Remove old heat shrink from wires and put new softer heat shrink on
7.  Put clubmans on the bike to figure out what position you want them in
8.  Use the old bars to figure out where to put the holes for the wires
9.  Drill / cut / grind the holes for the wires  *Make sure to round / debur the edges so they don't cut the wires*
10.  Feed the wire bundles through the bars.  NOT EASY due to the 90° bend.  Best advice is to take it slow and Push then Pull...Push/Pull...Push/Pull
11.  Reinstall left grip with compressed air
12.  Mount bar and reinstall bar clamps
13.  Reconnect wires behind the headlight and make sure everything works.
14.  Lube Cables since they are already disconnected
15.  Reconnect Cables and attach control housings

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SRMTgmQ8v9I/AAAAAAAAALY/No1GWHmr5jM/s640/06-11-08_0103.jpg) (http://lh6.ggpht.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SRMTgmQ8v9I/AAAAAAAAALY/No1GWHmr5jM/s640/06-11-08_0103.jpg)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SRMTgp7fZ9I/AAAAAAAAALo/HRpWEGNj3hk/s800/06-11-08_0102.jpg) (http://lh5.ggpht.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SRMTgp7fZ9I/AAAAAAAAALo/HRpWEGNj3hk/s800/06-11-08_0102.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SRmrEX1b44I/AAAAAAAAANE/my8D1Z-6l0o/s320/10-11-08_2155.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SRmrEX1b44I/AAAAAAAAANE/my8D1Z-6l0o/s1600-h/10-11-08_2155.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SRxCWg5cnmI/AAAAAAAAAN8/HKo7rWbbsFo/s320/13-11-08_0013.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SRxCWg5cnmI/AAAAAAAAAN8/HKo7rWbbsFo/s1600-h/13-11-08_0013.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SR2Ht27eTgI/AAAAAAAAAOM/Pr2hAjT8dfg/s320/14-11-08_0036.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SR2Ht27eTgI/AAAAAAAAAOM/Pr2hAjT8dfg/s1600-h/14-11-08_0036.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SST55lziTbI/AAAAAAAAAPE/R9vz5sikC0c/s320/19-11-08_2158.jpg) (http://)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SST6qZSOCCI/AAAAAAAAAPk/qoWZ0VMB_T4/s320/19-11-08_2339.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SST6qZSOCCI/AAAAAAAAAPk/qoWZ0VMB_T4/s1600-h/19-11-08_2339.jpg)



Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: grinch77 on Dec 12, 2008, 14:50:03
i will not comment on how i dispose of mine... lets just say it goes away at 3 am when no one is on the street

If your dumping your shit in the water drains that's pretty fucked up.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 12, 2008, 14:54:39
local busn does tox desposal ... i hop the fence and dump it in the outside drop bin area... was only saying cause i am Trespassing  not dumping storm drains bud... if you know the area you will know where it is
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Dec 12, 2008, 16:35:55
ya, I even feel bad when I wash my car on the street and all the mildly harsh stuff goes down the drain.  Im lucky to have a hasmat disposal depot not too far from me though.  Actually its right down the street from my school.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: liam on Dec 13, 2008, 08:56:12
ok, here's one i've done that i haven't seen anyone else do.
your results may vary, things may not fit together, it may overheat and catch fire or something,


headlight bucket modded to fit speedo/tacho
cost: varies, if you have the stuff, like i did, then around $15 +your time
needed stuff: about 10cm2 of fibreglass cloth, resin to match, some kind of filler, i used water based wood/ genreal purpose filler, because it's easy to sand. paint and primer. headlight bucket and light assembly, tacho or speedo w/casing

why: i wanted to clear some space on my cb350 bars, lower the profile, and give  it a hint of 60's styling.

process:
- dissasemble speedo
-take speedo case, mark inside bucket a circle the size of top, cut this out, look at it. do you like it's position etc. keep cutting bucket until you strike the perfect balance between useful position, aesthetics, and fitting the light assembly in the bucket. the back of my light touches the threaded drive on the bottom of the speedo, so it will be a close fit, depending on what you're using.
-when it all fits together, with all the parts in there, then you're ready to fix it.
-mask both sides of the speedo glass off. (i didn't do it on the inside, mistake!)
-tape the case to the bucket in your favoured position from the inside. check everything fits together again.
-fill all the gaps on the outside with filler, bulk it up and lay it on thick, it will sand of afterwards.
-after the filler has set, remove the tape from the inside and cut some stamp sized pieces of fibreglass. use these to cover all the bare filler, making sure to make a good connection to the bucket and case. make sure not to get any inside the speedo casing that would impede insertion. i did, and i doesn't go all the way in, but you guys are pretty talented, and neater then me, so you should be fine
-after the resin has set, start sanding the outside. sand all planes flat, make all the surfaces regular and make sure they match the changes of surface on the standard buckt.
-paint it.
(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1494/198/97/215600531/n215600531_30561784_8229.jpg)
(http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1494/198/97/215600531/n215600531_30561785_6377.jpg)
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1494/198/97/215600531/n215600531_30561786_7562.jpg)
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1494/198/97/215600531/n215600531_30561787_5242.jpg)
(http://photos-c.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v645/198/97/215600531/n215600531_30559970_686.jpg)
(http://photos-e.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v645/198/97/215600531/n215600531_30559972_2073.jpg)

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: BigBSBusa on Dec 13, 2008, 10:42:44
These get better everyday!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Dec 13, 2008, 11:08:11
Very nice liam, quality job.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ultimatefiend138 on Dec 13, 2008, 15:50:23
I'm digging the in light speedo but what if you want to keep your tach?  I understand this is a mod thread but maybe if your a lazy bum such as myself you could get ahold of the bucket with the speedo and tach that are integrated and work something together like on the superhawks and dreams.  Props on the idea, it's awesome.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Dec 13, 2008, 18:48:17
I was thinking about trying the in-light speedo mod and including my tach.  Im pretty sure you could simply cut more of a W shape as opposed to the U shape.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: brewtown16 on Dec 16, 2008, 14:22:53
the headlight/speedo combo is exactly what i want, but i fear that im going to screw up the clearance area of the speedo to the lens of the headlight. also, liam you never mentioned how the plug will fit.... you should make a small thread with a little more info... i mean that is one badass cheap mod... i really dont want to have to drop the 80 bucks for a superhawk headlight speedo combo
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Irishwarelephant on Dec 18, 2008, 10:24:37
nice speedo, i wish i would have seen that before i dropped the coin on one from BCR...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: mrkil on Dec 18, 2008, 12:36:26
get aluminum sheet not to heavy not to light - think bendable but not flimsy   -   $10-20
pop rivets   -   $2
3/4 inch foam   -   $5
upholstery vinyl    -   $14
poly glue   -   $4


1 - original seat base- cut off rear 1/4
2 - make sure to use cardboard for the templates on the rear section (don't want to screw up expensive aluminum)
3 - mark template shapes on aluminum for cutting, don't forget to leave extra to fold over for pop riveting
4 - pop rivet together
5 - cut down original seat foam to fit
6 - cover the whole thing in 3/4" foam
7 - make seat cover using vinyl best way is to layup paper over each section of the seat for templates again leaving 1/2" extra for sewing the pieces together
8 - steam the cover by throwing it in the dryer with a wet towel, it will stretch easier over the base
9 - start gluing the cover on starting from the rear and working forward. (i found bulldog clips best for hold fabric in place while drying)

now you have a seat that bolts right up to your frame for under $50

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/mrkil2/SNB11172Small.jpg)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/mrkil2/SSPX0079.jpg)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/mrkil2/IMG_4613.jpg)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/mrkil2/Picture004Small.jpg)

mine has a few ripples because i skipped the heating of the vinyl before mounting it...

maybe next time


Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Dec 18, 2008, 21:34:28
So you lads are building 30yr+ bikes,,and some have drum brakes.Original linings,,,da will give you duh biggest pucker ever on the street :o off to the jobber to get replacements,,,not ;D send them outs to a brake and clutch shop and have then relined with woven fork lift lining,,riveted and glued!! those forking things(and lift too) are on the brakes steady in a wearhouse,,,and not fade!!  dids the front for under $50...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 18, 2008, 21:37:23
man i can not follow what that says at all... can someone please translate that so i can possibly do this on my bobber build that i really want to keep the drums on?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 18, 2008, 21:40:32
not really a mod... more of a assembly trick... to protect the frame when assembling... go to the hardware store get some pipe insulation wrap... comes in all sorts of sizes usually around 1.50 for a 10ft section. it is already split down the middle... just wrap the whole sucker up! works great and comes off super easy if you use masking tape to hold it

(http://i40.tinypic.com/33cu2ya.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/2ro4b37.jpg)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/zikdxt.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Bouncer on Dec 18, 2008, 22:03:18
not really a mod... more of a assembly trick... to protect the frame when assembling... go to the hardware store get some pipe insulation wrap... comes in all sorts of sizes usually around 1.50 for a 10ft section. it is already split down the middle... just wrap the whole sucker up! works great and comes off super easy if you use masking tape to hold it

(http://i40.tinypic.com/33cu2ya.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/2ro4b37.jpg)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/zikdxt.jpg)

Good idea man, alot of the CB guys like using garden hose... same concept.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 18, 2008, 22:19:10
true but hosing is like 15 bucks for a roll... this will cost you $3!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Dec 18, 2008, 22:43:18
Ok, I have the dickshawnary and it says "pucker" stick your lips out to kiss,,something??,,but the pucker I was refurring too is the one you get at the spinckter,its puckering cause you have no BRAKES and about to take down a stray carribou(very similar to Rudolf family of small elks) and referance to forking things um wood be a fork lift  ::) and there on the brakes steady...which makes forklift linings better than the crap(and under the $50.00 bones minimum) than stock shoes  hope this makes more cents
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Dec 18, 2008, 22:49:18
you seem to actually have good stuff to contribute to this forum.  So why do you talk like you have an extra chromosome?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Dec 18, 2008, 23:20:39
I'm told one in three has the X chromezone,and one in six has the Y chromezone's,,geanneticlee faultered,,,,geniealigists blame it on in breading(hallowoween is fun here,, pump KIN),,,,,,and were told this happens in the Ozarks too,,I saw the movie,,deliveredance ::) ::) it's amazing that some folks take this seriously ;D ;D.thanks for the compliment and again I apoligise to referring to you as a :o,,,well I apoligised!!,,,,,,,cb 350 and cb 550 I have a welf of knoelige ;D ;D(couldn't resist, lmao).......forgot just one thing,,if I wasn't warped...I would have no funs!!!!!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Dec 18, 2008, 23:33:46
He is the Sofa King!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Dec 19, 2008, 00:09:03
Right on the money boy!! the joke is to ask someone(usually female units) to read and say out loud"I am sofa king wee todd did" good party joke when the blonde(s) or fire heads(red heads) are partially buzzed,,,,,sometimes it's just amazing they can read ::) ::) ::).................................. ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: sgt. slick on Dec 19, 2008, 00:43:40
Ok here's mine on making a cafe seat using the foam from the inside of a spare helmet. Still in progress but def. under $50.
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=6569.0
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: mysta2 on Dec 19, 2008, 01:18:30
Afterthought bracket:

Tools:
Saw of some sort (or a CNC mill)
Drill
Taps


I cut mine with a big expensive machine... but that part can be done by hand by anyone.

(http://www.dropbars.com/loudbike%202/driveway%20003.jpg)

and I tore the light itself off a dirtbike in a junkyard... I think he charged me a couple bucks for it.
(http://www.dropbars.com/loudbike%202/driveway%20012.jpg)

Does anyone who can type know anything more about this forklift brake lining thing? I think I might want to look into it. Pictures? Forklifts don't normally have stop suddenly from 60 mph.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Dec 19, 2008, 03:52:31
my guess would be that it has to do with the lifting part of the contraption, not the rolling part.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Dec 19, 2008, 05:37:55
I'm told one in three has the X chromezone,and one in six has the Y chromezone's,,geanneticlee faultered,,,,geniealigists blame it on in breading(hallowoween is fun here,, pump KIN),,,,,,and were told this happens in the Ozarks too,,I saw the movie,,deliveredance ::) ::) it's amazing that some folks take this seriously ;D ;D.thanks for the compliment and again I apoligise to referring to you as a :o,,,well I apoligised!!,,,,,,,cb 350 and cb 550 I have a welf of knoelige ;D ;D(couldn't resist, lmao).......forgot just one thing,,if I wasn't warped...I would have no funs!!!!!!!

Poster of the year award candidate!

Also, thread of the year candidate!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: xdk_elfe on Dec 19, 2008, 12:09:54
Poster of the year award candidate!

Also, thread of the year candidate!
+1!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: souperman on Dec 20, 2008, 16:50:30
Here's a cheap way to pack or repack de-baffled pipes for a deeper sound:

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/forum/marauder-m50-secret-hideaway/32124-m50-fiberglass-rebaffle-low-merged.html

A friend who rides a Suzuki showed me this link, but it looks to be something you could do to just about any muffler.  I'm giving it a shot on my CB500T's after market pipes.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 20, 2008, 16:53:59
that is an AWESOME trick!!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Deviant1 on Dec 20, 2008, 21:28:51
 ;D I'm gonna do that! Great idea and execution on that dude! I wanted one of the BCR bezels, but I'm alergic to spending that much on a headlight bezel. And now a sloution!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 29, 2008, 02:28:06
cheap levers...
so on my TX 500 i have 2 diff leavers... i am cheap so i do not want to buy new ones... here is what i do on all my bikes levers...
First mark where you want to make your cut... i like to cut the balls off the ends my levers....

(http://i40.tinypic.com/107w58y.jpg)

then use a grinder, belt sander, what ever to smooth them out... on harleys i typically will square them off on this bike i just made a smooth oval on the end... then media blast them... sanding works just fine...

(http://i44.tinypic.com/2j5xg04.jpg)

then just paint them... either that or polish them... but paint is easy... a powder coater will typically charge like 5 bucks a lever...

I powdered mine, as with the rest of the bike i mixed in a bit of brass flake... but here are the pics... super easy and almost free if you polish... plus it looks cool as hell on the bike

(http://i41.tinypic.com/2v8mxau.jpg)

(http://i41.tinypic.com/2812dv.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 29, 2008, 02:36:57
I know alot of us eliminate our turn sigs... well here is how to save your switch housings as well...
pull out the old switches, remove the stickers and sande it all down... then use bondo or JB weld if you are going to powder coate them... after it cures then sand it smooth... i filled in all the indents on them as well... but lefter the hole for the starter button... that i will keep... just another cheap and CLEAN trick for cheap

(http://i44.tinypic.com/2ir3g2f.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/2112iw0.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/2j3k13l.jpg)

(http://i39.tinypic.com/1623zps.jpg)

(http://i39.tinypic.com/108fuyr.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Deviant1 on Dec 29, 2008, 23:43:55
Awesome thread! Great stuff! I'm gonna cut down some levers tomorrow!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Jan 02, 2009, 20:53:42
Most racing organizations will not let race with the ball end removed,,,,,in an accident the modified lever will punch through leather,,and your skin!!!!!! :o
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: liam on Jan 03, 2009, 05:24:11
building solid state replacements for old selenium rectifiers
around $5
here's another useful one, i tend to bookmark various links as i find them which may be relevant later, and this thread seems a good place to put them all.
http://physiology.usouthal.edu/restore/diode/diode.html (http://physiology.usouthal.edu/restore/diode/diode.html)

(http://physiology.usouthal.edu/restore/diode/hondacharge.jpg)

and it should look something like this--- (http://oregonmotorcycleparts.com/sitebuilder/images/R42a1-1-273x205.jpg)
or you can buy a complete plug in replacement for ~$20. here > http://oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers.html (http://oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers.html)

the solid state bridge rectifieryou need to buy should look like this..
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062584&cp= (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062584&cp=)
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1324&CATID=&keywords=rectifier&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1324&CATID=&keywords=rectifier&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CCRider on Jan 03, 2009, 10:39:46
building solid state replacements for old selenium rectifiers
around $5
here's another useful one, i tend to bookmark various links as i find them which may be relevant later, and this thread seems a good place to put them all.
http://physiology.usouthal.edu/restore/diode/diode.html (http://physiology.usouthal.edu/restore/diode/diode.html)

(http://physiology.usouthal.edu/restore/diode/hondacharge.jpg)

and it should look something like this--- (http://oregonmotorcycleparts.com/sitebuilder/images/R42a1-1-273x205.jpg)
or you can buy a complete plug in replacement for ~$20. here > http://oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers.html (http://oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers.html)

the solid state bridge rectifieryou need to buy should look like this..
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062584&cp= (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062584&cp=)
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1324&CATID=&keywords=rectifier&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1324&CATID=&keywords=rectifier&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=)

I did the Radio Shack rectifier mod on my '71 CB350. Works great! I used to have to hook up a float charger every couple of days to keep the battery topped off. Not any more. Also my turn signal flashers used to work kinda funky (not a constant blink rate) Now they blink nice and steady.

CC
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Jan 03, 2009, 12:43:02
My battery use to drain like crazy when I first started riding.  I'd have to put it on a trickle charger every two days.  Then I figured out that I just gotta ride it a bit harder to get the RPM's up...and never use the electric starter.

How much of a difference does this mod make?  Can I use the electric starter and ride like a granny?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 03, 2009, 14:59:17
That scares me! There is no voltage regulation at all. maybe my bike is just weird. I have 3 yellow wires from the alternator. I ran these through a voltage rectifier (a 3 phase one I made with diodes.) and a capacitor rated for 50v. (to smooth out the voltage ripple.) My plan was to measure the results and then figure out what to do about the voltage regulation so I could bring it down to about 14v to charge the batt. I hooked it up started my cb400 and watched my DMM peak at over 100v and then the capacitor exploded. Maybe the cb350 isn't wired the same and doesn't need a regulator, or has a seperate one. My bike (and many others, I'd wager.) had an intergrated rectifier/regulator. This would replace the rectifier part but not the regulator. It might even work fine, but consistantly overcharge the battery. The voltage would drop to the battery voltage, but nothing would stop it from rising beyond the 13.5v or so of a full battery; cooking the bejesus out of your battery.

Represto:
    If your bike was designed to work with just a rectifier and no regulator as the above diagram indicates; this would be much better then the oldschool selenium one. It should work better then brand new.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 03, 2009, 15:43:32
i used one just like the one above that i got on ebay on a buddies 350 WORKED GREAT!!!! I MEAN GREAT!!!! i have that same thing sitting in my parts bin for my CB350 build waiting to go on as well

although i do have to say Steve knows his Shit when it comes to wiring... Ill call up Amaya a bit later today to see if he has had any issues with the 350 i got going for him a few years back
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 03, 2009, 16:06:44
my 15 dollar bike table
put this in my build thread but figured someone may need it later... going to figure out how to use a bottle jack to raise the whole unit up and down
went to the local walgreens... sweet talked the mgr and she gave me 5 milk crates... from there i went to dads house, i recently built him a trailer that would allow him to bring his Harley and his Jet ski to his summer get away in marco island... still had a 3/4 sheet of ply... i cut that to be 2.5 ft wide... with the excess i cut 2.5 sections... then i dug though his bolt collection till i found 10 bolts that matched (round lags) 10 washers, and 10 nuts... then i cut 5 strips from some extra wood we had laying around... now assembly... drilled 2 holes in each strip i cut, then mounted the milk crates to the smaller sections i cut... after i got all those done i simply bolted it all together at home... tossed one of the 15 wheel chucks i have (we take a ton of bike to FL ever year so i ahve a ton) added some mounting points for straps and BOOM.. i gots a table!

(http://i42.tinypic.com/2wnzmo3.jpg)

(http://i39.tinypic.com/2gxiter.jpg)

(http://i44.tinypic.com/2v9ou39.jpg)

(http://i44.tinypic.com/2i6ggw2.jpg)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/2q8pnrb.jpg)

(http://i40.tinypic.com/n6xfrc.jpg)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/2cfti84.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/1zxba6d.jpg)

(http://i40.tinypic.com/2znst2t.jpg)

New wheel chuck:
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2s96ble.jpg)

take it twice as high:
(http://i39.tinypic.com/egwq4j.jpg)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/28i42g5.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Bouncer on Jan 03, 2009, 16:56:21
my 15 dollar bike table
put this in my build thread but figured someone may need it later... going to figure out how to use a bottle jack to raise the whole unit up and down
went to the local walgreens... sweet talked the mgr and she gave me 5 milk crates... from there i went to dads house, i recently built him a trailer that would allow him to bring his Harley and his Jet ski to his summer get away in marco island... still had a 3/4 sheet of ply... i cut that to be 2.5 ft wide... with the excess i cut 2.5 sections... then i dug though his bolt collection till i found 10 bolts that matched (round lags) 10 washers, and 10 nuts... then i cut 5 strips from some extra wood we had laying around... now assembly... drilled 2 holes in each strip i cut, then mounted the milk crates to the smaller sections i cut... after i got all those done i simply bolted it all together at home... tossed one of the 15 wheel chucks i have (we take a ton of bike to FL ever year so i ahve a ton) added some mounting points for straps and BOOM.. i gots a table!

(http://i42.tinypic.com/2wnzmo3.jpg)

(http://i39.tinypic.com/2gxiter.jpg)

(http://i44.tinypic.com/2v9ou39.jpg)

(http://i44.tinypic.com/2i6ggw2.jpg)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/2q8pnrb.jpg)

(http://i40.tinypic.com/n6xfrc.jpg)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/2cfti84.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/1zxba6d.jpg)

(http://i40.tinypic.com/2znst2t.jpg)

Simply Awesone Joe! I am going to have to make something like this as soon as the bike is ready to be reassembled. I am using a craftsman tool bench right now and it is such a stupid design, but it is all I have for now, so I make due. I filed a claim with ebay so as soon as I find out what the deal is with my rearsets I'll be giving you a ring about the spacers man. My swingarm is going out this week for a guy in the sohc4 board to make me some custom brass bearings on his lathe. People rave about his quality, so I am gonna check it out.   
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CCRider on Jan 04, 2009, 00:13:29
That scares me! There is no voltage regulation at all. maybe my bike is just weird. I have 3 yellow wires from the alternator. I ran these through a voltage rectifier (a 3 phase one I made with diodes.) and a capacitor rated for 50v. (to smooth out the voltage ripple.) My plan was to measure the results and then figure out what to do about the voltage regulation so I could bring it down to about 14v to charge the batt. I hooked it up started my cb400 and watched my DMM peak at over 100v and then the capacitor exploded. Maybe the cb350 isn't wired the same and doesn't need a regulator, or has a seperate one. My bike (and many others, I'd wager.) had an intergrated rectifier/regulator. This would replace the rectifier part but not the regulator. It might even work fine, but consistantly overcharge the battery. The voltage would drop to the battery voltage, but nothing would stop it from rising beyond the 13.5v or so of a full battery; cooking the bejesus out of your battery.

Represto:
    If your bike was designed to work with just a rectifier and no regulator as the above diagram indicates; this would be much better then the oldschool selenium one. It should work better then brand new.


The CB 350 has a seperate voltage regulator.  CC
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 04, 2009, 00:52:14
i used one just like the one above that i got on ebay on a buddies 350 WORKED GREAT!!!! I MEAN GREAT!!!! i have that same thing sitting in my parts bin for my CB350 build waiting to go on as well

although i do have to say Steve knows his Shit when it comes to wiring... Ill call up Amaya a bit later today to see if he has had any issues with the 350 i got going for him a few years back

My bike isn't wired the same as a 350 at all. This prob. works great for a 350; I couldn't tell you as I don't have one to look at. I'm just saying don't replace a rectifier/regulator with just a rectifier. It is also posible that I'm being over cautious. maybe 40 years ago in an automotive application a little cooking of the battery on long trips was acceptable.

Edit: Thank you CC for pointing out that the cb350 has a separate voltage regulator. that would make this a drop in upgrade for the cb350. If you bought one on ebay I hope you didn't overpay too much for a $2 bridge rectifier.

(http://physiology.usouthal.edu/restore/diode/hondacharge.jpg)
This circuit diagram clearly shows the rectifier directly connected to the battery with no voltage regulation at all. This was the initial cause for my concern. I would like to reasure you that this mod should work great exactly like it was posted despite this diagram being wrong for the cb350 and with some modification it could be made to work on any bike with a seperate voltage regulator.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 04, 2009, 02:11:10
ha ha ha oooh i did of course... think i paid 30 bucks...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 04, 2009, 02:36:32
ha ha ha oooh i did of course... think i paid 30 bucks...

Current list price: $1.69 ($3.29 if you shop at ripoff shack.)

How do you get the bike on and off that table?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CCRider on Jan 04, 2009, 10:40:56
Current list price: $1.69 ($3.29 if you shop at ripoff shack.)


I paid the outrageous R/S price. CC
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 04, 2009, 12:48:34
Don't get me wrong RadioShack has it's place (My brother works there.) If you need something 'now' and they have it you have no other options. They just seem more interested in selling cell phones now then stocking this type of product; which is sad because I remember when I was a kid RS had 2 asiles full of this kind of stuff and you could get everything you needed for a project right there, now it's 2 small sections of drawers at the back of the store. I stock a much wider variety of electronics components at my home then the local RS. You get a much better deal when you get this kind of stuff mail order.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Jan 04, 2009, 18:07:46
Don't get me wrong RadioShack has it's place (My brother works there.) If you need something 'now' and they have it you have no other options. They just seem more interested in selling cell phones now then stocking this type of product; which is sad because I remember when I was a kid RS had 2 asiles full of this kind of stuff and you could get everything you needed for a project right there, now it's 2 small sections of drawers at the back of the store. I stock a much wider variety of electronics components at my home then the local RS. You get a much better deal when you get this kind of stuff mail order.

agreed.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Jan 04, 2009, 20:22:53
this is a fantastic thread!!!  I've already used the epoxy paint trick on my triple threes, lever perches, and headlight shell.  As for the wheels I'm gonna use some Eastwood "warm silver" to get that 60's MGB painted wire wheel look on the hubs and spokes.  My girlfriend swears I'm gonna get cancer from the all the fumes, if the ciggies don't get me!!!  I've also used the polishing info on the fork sliders and the improvement is just incredible, must be a 500% improvement.  And all this started from a simple wiring fix in the head light shell, then stering head bearings and now this.  I've never had so much fun!!!!  thanks so much for the info and the inspiration!!!  The XS650 is really coming along to being the near-Triumph that I wanted all along.

Terry
J'ville, Fl
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 05, 2009, 02:38:45
steve i have a ramp from my bike trailers so i just use that... getting 5 more milk crates to bring it up another level while i start all the final touches... also found my REAL wheel chuck so i will use that so no longer need the straps to hold it in place... post pics tomorrow
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Bouncer on Jan 06, 2009, 19:22:25
Ok so I did this about a month ago and I am kind of spurring off of the thread starters bike platform post.

I am a carpenter by trade, kinda, with the market the way it is I am now a suit for a while.... grrrr

I put this baby together for an eyelash under $50 with a contractor discount.

( 8 ) 8' 2X4
(2) 8' 4X4
(1) 4'X8' sheet of 1/2" plywood
(16) 1/2" X 7" long lag bolts
(32) 1/2" washers
(16) 1/2" nuts
A few solid nails and some Liquid nails (also known as flooring adhesive)

The total dimensions are 32" deep 36" tall 8' wide (Well thought out for the space in my garage, and my height)

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/perfectformula/CB002.jpg) 
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/perfectformula/CB001.jpg)


I could jump up and down on this baby and it wouldn't move a 1/4 inch. SOLID

My previous work bench:

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/perfectformula/My%20CB%20750/CB038.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: IMOALE on Jan 06, 2009, 20:55:17
LOL I paid a 20 spot for mine (rectifier) oh well it had a nice new connector set I needed to.  (Still not $20 bucks even with postage Oh well lack of knowledge)  Glad I'm sticking with CB350 for my next two builds saving money already.  Nice tables both.  Ive been lucky Lowes let me have to kobalt work benches for 60 bucks, because they were missing a drawer each. ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Jan 09, 2009, 02:21:17
I'm starting to think this may not be a really good thread as just about every mod we cheap bastards make to our bike is less than $50.  It may have been relevant to those HD folks that pay $300 for a turn signal.  I already have 3 more mods that I plan to post after I do them.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 09, 2009, 02:44:32
I'm starting to think this may not be a really good thread as just about every mod we cheap bastards make to our bike is less than $50.  It may have been relevant to those HD folks that pay $300 for a turn signal.  I already have 3 more mods that I plan to post after I do them.

I think this topic is a great idea and is yeilding some nice mods. However at 5 pages and growing it's going to get hard to sort through real quick. It already crashes safari on my iPod if I try to scroll before all the pictures load. Is there anyway it could be made into a sub-forum and split into 1 topic for each mod? We have sub forums on other parts of the site, and eveyone knows the search function here isn't the best so it helps to have things laid out clearly.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Jan 09, 2009, 02:46:48
I was being a bit sarcastic.  I love this thread, but it will get quite long.  Joe promised to index the mods on the first post.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 09, 2009, 04:21:31
i will index it once we get about 20 mods on here... then i will do an index of 20 a piece...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 09, 2009, 11:57:37
Ahh, I see. I still think the sub-forum would be cool but that will work.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 09, 2009, 12:07:04

If the bike your talking about is the late model CB400T the regulator is built into the rectifier unit.
1978 3 valve/cyl motors have a 6 or 7 wire rect/reg. 3 yellow, 1 black (battery voltage), 1 Red (permanent live), and one or two green wires (ground)  Its designed to handle around 25 amps @14 volts for short periods, 4~5 amp constant
PJ

You sure know your shit pj. That's my bike exactly. However the only stock wiring on it now are the wires going to the alternator. my rectifier/regulator was bad when I got the bike. It and all the other wiring have been replaced with a much more modern system of my own design. I don't like trying to troubleshoot someone elses circuits, it requires geting into their head and thinking like them. It is much easier for me to start from scratch. Then when something goes wrong I know why and how to fix it.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: njsoccerguy on Jan 15, 2009, 15:55:40
OK, not really a mod, but a cheap fix and very useful for all your chrome bits.

I learned this from my BMX buddies, I collect vintage bmx and 80's freestyle bikes and there is a really good way to remove rust from chrome parts, without using abbrasive materials or the electrolysis set up.  It's called an OA bath.

OA is short for oxalic acid, commonly found in wood bleach, like the stuff you would clean your deck with.  You can pick it up in powder form or in liquid form already diluted.  You can find the liquid forms at Home Depot or Lowes or your local hardware store.  Just ask for wood bleach.  The important thing is to read the ingredients on the jug, because you can also get wood bleach with sulfuric acid (I think that's the other ingredient), and you don't want that.  Oxalic Acid is the stuff your looking for.

I use 1 large container of wood bleach, I think its about 64 oz, and fill up a large rubbermaid plastic container with warm water.  I do this outside, but I do know people who use their tub (not recommending it though).  Let it sit for a few hours and every so often just rub it with a towel or soft bristle brush.  You'll be amazed at how the rust just disappears.  After you have finished, make sure you dry the item really well, and I coat the non-plated side ( like the inside of headlight ears) with WD-40, to make sure the non-chromed areas don't rust up again.

Do not use on aluminum or with bare metal. It will turn both black.

But it does work wonders on chrome.  If you have items with surface rust, give it a try. Try it on something you don't really care about first, just to make sure it's good................I know it is, but I am also always skeptical of using someone elses ideas first without seeing it first hand or having practiced on something I don't care about.   If the rust has gone through the chrome, you will still have "peppering" but it won't be all scratched up from using abbrasive cleaners or materials.

I'll try to get some pics of some things I've soaked up real soon.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Jan 15, 2009, 16:23:52
Ha!  :D

Oxalic Acid is also available in powdered form at any grocery store.  I buy "Barkeepers Friend" in a goldish can in the cleaners isle.  I use it to clean my stainless brewing equipment and pots, as well as my sink!

I've never tried it on chrome.  The BKF does have an abrasive in it, but as long as you don't rub it on the part, it shouldn't scratch it.

I think a can is like $1.50.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: njsoccerguy on Jan 15, 2009, 16:34:40
Ha!  :D

Oxalic Acid is also available in powdered form at any grocery store. 

Man, and I always run soooooo much farther from my house to get it, when there's a grocery store right around the corner from me.  What is it in there, or is it just for sale as OA??
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Jan 15, 2009, 17:15:24
I'm not sure what else is in Barkeepers Friend, but it is gritty (abrasive).  Its main cleaning agent is oxalic acid though.  You would have to read the can.  It is powder so it seems like your wood bleach would be better.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Derek4Real3 on Jan 15, 2009, 17:29:41
I dont want to threadjack or get off topic but im wondering if that solid state rectifier upgrade i bought will be enough to be ok with my H4 headlight. Im still wiring my bike and wont know till its all done.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 15, 2009, 18:26:43
it will be fine as long as you have a tender for it at night.. that H4 will take ALOT of power brother, but if you run LED lighting thought he rest you should be fine... Steve is the man, hit him up he will be able to let you know.. he is my go to guy on electrical needs!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 15, 2009, 18:29:27
bar tenders best friend ROCKS!!! i use it all the time to clean up metal!!! then you really have to clean it afterwards with some denatured alchole or PREP... but it work great!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Jan 15, 2009, 19:12:19
it will be fine as long as you have a tender for it at night.. that H4 will take ALOT of power brother, but if you run LED lighting thought he rest you should be fine... Steve is the man, hit him up he will be able to let you know.. he is my go to guy on electrical needs!

I just ordered my LED bulbs and already bought my new headlight.  I was planning on doing a $50 mod post once I installed everything.  The stock bulb on my CL450 is a 50/35 W sealed beam.  I bought a bright white 65/55 W halogen that I am going to put on after installing my LED bulbs.  I bought LED bulbs for the gauges as well.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Derek4Real3 on Jan 15, 2009, 20:30:38
I just ordered my LED bulbs and already bought my new headlight.  I was planning on doing a $50 mod post once I installed everything.  The stock bulb on my CL450 is a 50/35 W sealed beam.  I bought a bright white 65/55 W halogen that I am going to put on after installing my LED bulbs.  I bought LED bulbs for the gauges as well.
point me in the LED gauge bulb direction, i have a LED tail light and H4 headlight (no directionals) and im starting to worry because i dont have power in the garage to run  a battery tender, plus my battery is tiny
Nominal Voltage: 12V 
Capacity @ 20 hr rate: 8.5ah 
Case Quantity: 5 
Dimensions: 5.94"L x 2.56W x 3.86H 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 15, 2009, 20:31:42
auto aluminations! great great stuff!!! my brother just got LED prjections for his fog lights and they are STUPID bright
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: BigBSBusa on Jan 15, 2009, 20:58:11
auto aluminations! great great stuff!!! my brother just got LED prjections for his fog lights and they are STUPID bright

Yep, here's the web addy:  http://autolumination.com/ (http://autolumination.com/)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Jan 15, 2009, 21:09:11
point me in the LED gauge bulb direction,

I got mine from here, Enkmall (http://stores.ebay.com/EnKMall_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZQ2d33QQftidZ2QQtZkm), an Ebay store.  I believe the Ba9s bulbs should fit the CB gauges.  $2.40 each (I got 5) vs. $7 each from autolumination.  They are being shipped from Hong Kong so I should get them in about 2 months.   :D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 16, 2009, 16:22:53
point me in the LED gauge bulb direction, i have a LED tail light and H4 headlight (no directionals) and im starting to worry because i dont have power in the garage to run  a battery tender, plus my battery is tiny
Nominal Voltage: 12V 
Capacity @ 20 hr rate: 8.5ah 
Case Quantity: 5 
Dimensions: 5.94"L x 2.56W x 3.86H 


Ok. your fancy new h4 bulb is consuming 1.7 amps more then the stock sealed beam (that's only 1.25amps more with the highbeams on, but that's 2.5 amps more with the H4 highbeam on versus stock without the highbeams) 1157s (the bulbs used in turn and brake lights) consume .7 to 1.9 amps a piece depending on which filament is lit. So in droping 5 (3 of which would be consuming .7amps all the time) 1157 bulbs off your bike and going with a led taillight and no turn signals saves you 2.1amps (not to mention the extra energy saved (almost 2 more amps) when the bilinkers would be blinking or while the brake light would be lit.) after factoring in the extra drain from the H4 bulb you are left with 400ma to run your led tail/brake light. this should be more then enough for even a big light. If you are still worried do what I did: install a headlight cutoff switch so you can turn the headlight off alltogether durring the day that will save you 4.5amps (with the h4) the entire time the light is off versus the low beam being on. it's not legal to have a headlight switch on a '74 or latter bike, but no one has called me on it with my '78 cb400.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Jan 16, 2009, 16:54:17
If you are still worried do what I did: install a headlight cutoff switch so you can turn the headlight off alltogether durring the day that will save you 4.5amps (with the h4) the entire time the light is off versus the low beam being on. it's not legal to have a headlight switch on a '74 or latter bike, but no one has called me on it with my '78 cb400.

In Georgia, it is illegal to ride without your headlight and taillight on, no matter what.  I have my light off when I am starting my bike and letting it warm up.  I turn it on when I start riding.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 16, 2009, 17:13:05
In Wisconsin I believe I just have to turn it on half an hour after sunset like the cars. No one seemed to car the cops never bothered me. I was running a total loss electrical system with led everything but the stock sealed beam headlight. this allowed me to hook it up to the tender and charge only 1 or 2 times a week versus everynight when I always ran the headlight. before I added my switch I sometimes misestimated how much juice was in the battery and on my way home i'd loose all my lights; The bike kept right on gowing but all the lights went out!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Joey Paquette on Jan 17, 2009, 23:54:24
How long does it take for the paint to start peeling off?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: supercafe on Jan 18, 2009, 00:20:37
hay guys. was just reading through and was woundering about the led lights.
i what to run led brake light on my cd 175, and was wondering what i have to do to run them.
thanks.
later.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: supercafe on Jan 18, 2009, 00:25:58
oh ya forgot to add that, i think this is a really good idea to write in this thread.
lots of reading and info, helps out alot, very much so for us newbies. smart move.
later.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 20, 2009, 12:08:59
super cafe it all depends on what style leds you watn to go with... if it is just a LED tail light it should be all set up to plug in and roll... if you are going to make your own LED tail light that is where the resister and boosters will come into play, depends on what you want to do...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 20, 2009, 12:11:11
booster?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 20, 2009, 12:49:35
yes, most board style led lighting req a booster to be wired in so that all the LEDS are getting the propper flow and power, and AVR Led booster, is what is used alot with flash lights and crap like that, it is what I would use to brighten up the tail light for the brakes... it is just important that you do not send tooo much juice to them... i belive that it is req when ever you use over 15 LED's...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: supercafe on Jan 20, 2009, 13:41:30
cool guys.
i just want to run a regular led.
this info is very handy to know.
i'll try one from work, and see what happens.
i'll also see if i can get a booster aswell.
but would rather not.
well thanks alots guys for the help and info.
thanks
later.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 20, 2009, 13:43:11
1 led? like a 3mm, 5mm, 10mm... a regular LED will not be enough brother... if you just do one though you will def not need a booster at all... hell i have run up to 20 without a booster and just used resisters to control how much they lit up
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 20, 2009, 15:41:35
Ok that sounds like a switchmode boost converter to up the voltage when you run a bunch of LEDs in series. that seems a bit of a waste to me. I usualy run a few in series with a resistor to make it work off of 12v and then if more LEDs are needed I run more strings in paralel. you can run as many LEDs as you need that way with out the boost converter; though I supose the small amount of juice wasted in the converter isn't a big deal when you have an alternator. can you post a link to the 'avr led booster'? the name makes me think they use the same atmel avr microcontrollers that I put in everything. (like your tx500)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 20, 2009, 15:49:22
i will try to track down that link for you... i think i have it at home... i usually do the same as you are saying here, just run a set of them off a resister and then if i need more tap another line off the power line with another resister... i do this alot of time on undertail turns on rockets... so they can get rid of all the crap that hangs down...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: supercafe on Jan 20, 2009, 20:23:46
thanks guys.
i'm at work and will grab a led brake/clearance light.
and see if it works. thanks again
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Jan 20, 2009, 20:55:18
Bar End Mirrors

Mirror - $17.05 shipped for one ($29.00 for 2)
3/8 Chrome Hole Plugs - 2 for $2

I bought my mirror from commandospecialties (http://stores.ebay.com/commandospecialties) on ebay.  It is the weird euro shaped one.

(http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/0/9/6/6/3/5/webimg/17882180_tp.jpg)

First I removed the old mirror(s).  Then I plugged the holes in the control housings with the 3/8 in chrome hole plugs.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZrJMaIy-I/AAAAAAAAAWI/N0RsT5EW8ns/s320/13-01-09_2103.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZrJMaIy-I/AAAAAAAAAWI/N0RsT5EW8ns/s1600-h/13-01-09_2103.jpg)

Then I used compressed air to remove the grip and then used a screwdriver to remove the platic plug from the end of the bars.  Then I used the air to put the grip back on.  I didn't do the throttle side, so I don't really know what that would entail.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZqlpBHMdI/AAAAAAAAAVw/D8s4m4bPjZ8/s320/19-01-09_2218.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZqlpBHMdI/AAAAAAAAAVw/D8s4m4bPjZ8/s1600-h/19-01-09_2218.jpg)

Then I used and exacto knife to cut a hole in the end of the grip.  I started with a small one in the center and then made it bigger, using the inside of the bar as a guide, trying to leave a little extra to seal against the mirror.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZqwvcNpBI/AAAAAAAAAV4/pFnj6Yq_tz8/s320/19-01-09_2225.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZqwvcNpBI/AAAAAAAAAV4/pFnj6Yq_tz8/s1600-h/19-01-09_2225.jpg)

Then I put the mirror in the hole and tightened it up so it wouldn't fall out.  I adjusted it as best I could in the garage and then tightened it up so it would not move.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZq7SNUMqI/AAAAAAAAAWA/AIMoSAfAjbQ/s320/19-01-09_2230.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZq7SNUMqI/AAAAAAAAAWA/AIMoSAfAjbQ/s1600-h/19-01-09_2230.jpg)

The states I live in only require one mirror, so that is all I'm using.  Looks pretty good with the polished gauges.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZrVnwrsJI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/pE_hcq6kmng/s320/19-01-09_2234.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZrVnwrsJI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/pE_hcq6kmng/s1600-h/19-01-09_2234.jpg)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZrf8wBN0I/AAAAAAAAAWY/isxBzi5QAss/s320/19-01-09_2235.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/SXZrf8wBN0I/AAAAAAAAAWY/isxBzi5QAss/s1600-h/19-01-09_2235.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Tim on Jan 20, 2009, 21:03:52
I need to sort out LED brake/running/signal/plate lights myself for my project.  Was looking at some flexible LED strips that might do the trick.  Will be hitting you guys up for wiring help when the time comes :)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Derek4Real3 on Jan 20, 2009, 21:07:58
I need to sort out LED brake/running/signal/plate lights myself for my project.  Was looking at some flexible LED strips that might do the trick.  Will be hitting you guys up for wiring help when the time comes :)
dont know if this helps but i was just in pep boys (rice section) they have a strip of flexable red LEDs but IDK how you would get them to be running and brake.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CThor on Jan 20, 2009, 21:58:19
Not sure if anyone would be interested in this light but I used it on the scooter I built up last summer.  Nice small package and integrates running, brake and turn signals.  Can't remember if it has a plate light or not, but I think it does.  I have the scooter put away for the winter right now so can't go check it.

http://www.motoemporium.com/gadgets/versalight.html
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 20, 2009, 22:07:02
dont know if this helps but i was just in pep boys (rice section) they have a strip of flexable red LEDs but IDK how you would get them to be running and brake.
I used a trailer light with only 2 wires as my tail/brake light. I put an extra resistor inline with the wire for the tail light. this reduces the brightness and then the brake light wire has no extra resistor causing the light to be brighter when I brake. both hook up to the + wire on the trailer light.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 21, 2009, 02:41:44
i did the same on my brothers chopper tail lights... ill snap some pics next time i am over there...
anyway

cable cover mod
cost 22 bucks... order some cable covers from
http://cableorganizer.com/chrome-sleeving/chrome-xc-braided-sleeving.html
side entry work just as well... that is what i rock on my HD...
5/16 in the mylar chrome will cover most cables and wires

all you need to do is wipe down your old cables real well... now you can order this wiht side entry (used the black on my harley.. LOOKS SICK AS HELL, like black braided cables) but on this i need the bling, ordered the chrome... on this when ever i cut it, i use a lighter to heat the end and then while it is gooey i touch my finger to it... this just seals it all up so that it does not unravel... dad taught me this years ago to fix our ski ropes when we had to make them longer... thenwip tie, pull it tight, zip tie again.... looks awesome!
Tim also sugested using some shrink wrap on the ends instead, that woul dbe super clean as well
(http://i44.tinypic.com/154ja87.jpg)

(http://i43.tinypic.com/23upfva.jpg)

(http://i40.tinypic.com/907kw2.jpg)

(http://i44.tinypic.com/2ih6r9y.jpg)

and the black on my bob:
brake line:
(http://i33.tinypic.com/142qywm.jpg)

(http://i34.tinypic.com/ztet4y.jpg)

(http://i37.tinypic.com/v7tr88.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: johnson_steve on Jan 21, 2009, 03:06:10
That is slick!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: supercafe on Jan 22, 2009, 02:58:41
jrk.
thats a cool looking way to cover those ugly cables.
i think i'm going to do that, was going to use wire loom
but this looks better.
awesome job on the cafe in the pics.
any way good idea.
later.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: mbrown67 on Jan 24, 2009, 19:51:13
CHEAP ROLLING BIKE STAND

I went to harbor freight and picked up a 9.99 roller dolly. I used scrap wood and extra screws to screw wood onto the dolly to build up the height. My total cost was $10, but even if you had to buy wood and screws should not cost more than $15 or $20.

To get the bike on I just lean and slide the dolly underneath it and then push the bike up and onto the dolly. My bike was really sturdy and secure. I stripped it down to the frame while on the dolly.

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: IMOALE on Jan 26, 2009, 02:08:33
This is just an add on to JRKs cable cover mod.  I dont have pics but I'll post some later.   I had reall ugly, cracked, and drie rotted cable (clutch, tach, speedo,)  I couldn't bend them much without braking the outer shell.  Other than that they worked fine.  So instead of buying new ones I broke off all theouter shell cleaned the metal tubing and slid it through 10mm shrink wrap.  Used my heat gun and they look like new.   This with JRKs cable cover mod will give you moisture protection and abrasion protection for less than what you would pay for new cables.  And with JRKs they look freekin sweet.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Useful Idiot on Jan 28, 2009, 14:14:34
Not sure if this classifies as a 'mod', but it's a brake light/license plate mount I fabbed up.

Bought a small piece of sheet metal and a metal strip from Home Depot. Total cost was around 10 bucks (shrink wrapped the wires cost around fiddy cents!)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/FullTilt151/Garage/P1010001.jpg)

I know it's probably been done to death, but here's my homemade manometer. Board I found in the alley. Tube from Home Depot. Drill holes, zip tie, fill with transmission fluid. (i had to buy the adapters for my carbs off ebay). Total cost was around 30 bucks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/FullTilt151/Garage/P1010004.jpg)

My buddy's mod to his cherry as hell 74 cb500 four. Cost=free
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/FullTilt151/Garage/P1010002.jpg)

We built a workbench in my garage. Total cost was a tad over 50. I scratched together as much wood as I could.
Before
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/FullTilt151/Garage/PA160079.jpg)

Halfway
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/FullTilt151/Garage/PC140007.jpg)

As it sits today (it's winter, cut me some slack)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/FullTilt151/Garage/P1010003.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 28, 2009, 14:21:02
now thats whats up!! i made the same plate for my harley! great tips man!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: brewtown16 on Jan 31, 2009, 23:01:08
Not sure if this classifies as a 'mod', but it's a brake light/license plate mount I fabbed up.

Bought a small piece of sheet metal and a metal strip from Home Depot. Total cost was around 10 bucks (shrink wrapped the wires cost around fiddy cents!)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/FullTilt151/Garage/P1010001.jpg)


if you have seen my CB360 thread, i did this but i used an old 32 ford tailight assembly and some angle iron... granted it snapped.... but how is this one holding up? has it broke? i think im going to do how you did it
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Bouncer on Feb 01, 2009, 15:46:15
Well I really didn't want to unveil this until my bike was done but what the hell. I am sure all of you guys have seen when people riddle the front sprocket cover with holes.
ex:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/perfectformula/My%20CB%20750/261.jpg)



I took it one step further to help my bike stand out a bit. Check it out! Took me about 5 hours between the dremel and hand files. I painted it strictly to see how it would look. It is still rough and need to clean up a few areas with the file. The spade will look a little goofy in the pictures because the piece has such an odd slope to it. BUT, it looks awesome in person, I am pretty proud of my creativity on this one. Cost about $20 for the specialty (precision) file set, and maybe $8 the dremel bits.     

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/perfectformula/My%20CB%20750/CB019.jpg)

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/perfectformula/My%20CB%20750/CB018-1.jpg)


It is going to look SICK when I get the bike back together!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcmspikes on Feb 01, 2009, 16:45:07
hey Useful,   could you write a little more about the manometer?  please.  maybe some more pics.  thanks.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Feb 01, 2009, 19:53:34
I built one of those manometers myself too. Real easy and real cheap. Cost for me was easily < $10 ( I didn't need any special connectors for my carbs). I only made it for two carbs just to see how it would work, going to modify it this winter for four. Works perfect!

Here's a writeup for four: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t16200.html (http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t16200.html)

or one for two: http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp (http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: troybilt on Feb 02, 2009, 10:31:58
$1.99 mod to save lots of money.
This is kinda long, but if you consider doing this you should read the whole thing.
Ok, this is something that can save you time and money. I can say that it has saved me several thousand dollars! This is no BS. Instead of going to the emergency room for stitches use crazy glue. I cut myself all the time. My son use to play hockey. He cut his face just about every weekend (fights, sticks, ice whatever). Stitches leave marks when healed and the wounds heal slow. Crazy glue is fast and easy and leaves no marks when healed. there are no stitches to remove. Emergency room visits are expensive and takes lots of time.

You have to make damn sure it is clean. Then make damn sure it is clean again. Then clean it again. I hate to repeat my self, but make sure its clean! You don't want to seal up the wound with germs trapped in there or else things could get ugly. You do need to be current on tetnus shot. I believe it is every 4-8 yrs. Call your doctor to find out. Anyhow, I use batadine (provadine/iodine) to flush the wound several times. Make sure no tendons, ligaments or arteries have been severed. Tendons/Ligaments are white. Arteries, it will be pumping blood out like crazy. You could still have cut a ligament and not know it. Make sure you can move the joint, finger, foot or what ever without any problems. If you suspect that you have cut one of these, get you but to the doctor. Most of all, use common sense.

Make sure to have a pair of tweezers or something to help you close the wound after you have applied the glue (you can very easly glue your finger to your wound)
Very carefully open the crazy glue (the old stiff works better than the crzy glue gel) apply a good amount directly inside the wound and carefully close together with the tweezers. Hold for about two/three minutes until the glue sets. After the glue stes I apply a small amount on the outside of  the wound for extra measure. leave the wound unbandaged. Apply a splint if the wound is near a joint or where it can be moved or bumped. It is very important not to move that area because crazy glue is not flexable. it is brittle and will crack. You may need to re-apply glue every two or three days as your skin renews and sheds itself, or if the glue were to crack. This is common. The wound is sealed and will heal much much faster than if it were sutured. It is very important to make sure the wound is clean because you are sealing it up.
Now, just let it heal over the next few days. No stitches to remove and no ER visit and no bills.

I've done this for the past 20 years. When my son played minor hockey he was constantly cut. The teams had no team doctors. I cleaned the wound, used crazy glue, and he could be back out on the ice in less than 5-10 minutes.
Later, when he played in the OHL the team had doctors that stitched him. He never had any scars until he started getting stitches.
       
Recently my mother sliced a finger with a kitchen knife. She called the doctors office and they told her to go to the ER. She called the ER. The ER told her the wait would be at least 2 hours. She asked for a cost estimate. They said it would be between $300-$500.
She called me.  She didn't wan't to move it because she got the bleeding stopped and she was afraid moving it would hurt. But we had to open it up and make sure no ligaments were cut and so we could get it cleaned. If the wound is already closed off it has to be opened back up for these reasons. There were no signs of ligament damage (No visual signs in the wound and she could move it full range with out too much trouble). We applied crazy glue and held the wound together with 2 tooth picks until the glue set (the glue really doesn't burn if at all but, whatever you are holding the wound closed with it is important to use something with out much surface area. It offers less to get accidently glued to the wound ). I made a splint out of a straw and taped it to her finger. She had to re apply the glue two days later because it looked like it was starting to let loose. This is common because the skin is sheding it self and it looks like the glue is letting loose. There is less trauma to the area (no injections or needles) and therefor the pain associated with stitches that is experienced later in the day/evening (thumping) is far less.  After 4 days the cut was healed and she removed the splint. She said that she has never had a cut heal so fast.  At first she was unsure, now she is very, very glad she didn't go to the doctor.
 
My family doctor says that the chemical in crazy glue is the same as what's in suture glue only it does not have the flexability of the real stuff (Suture glue is available in the Er for suturing instead of stitches. It is mainly used on children or on peoples faces). Liquid Bandage is not the same and will not work for suturing>
The main thing is you should use common sense. If you are not 100% certain, call your doctor or go to the ER.
       
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: zixxerboy on Feb 02, 2009, 14:26:26
Bouncer,

The spade provides an opening large enough to let a finger(s) or pants leg possibly inside. The beauty of the holes is that even when "swiss cheesed" to max it still provides the necessry safety factor. 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 02, 2009, 14:32:42
easy fix... glue some screen on the inside man, will still look cool an have the protection you need
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Derek4Real3 on Feb 02, 2009, 19:16:27
I use super glue for every cut! even used it on my fiance the other night when she sliced her hand open on a broken glass cup in the sink, works awsomly they used it in the army and they still use it in midwife (home nurse) birthing when the Vajayjay rips too much they just glue it back.....funny but true.

Glue some brass mesh behind the spade!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hanly2 on Feb 02, 2009, 20:06:14
I've used black pepper on some bad cuts that won't stop bleeding it seals it right up and makes the blood clot.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: colpumpkinnuts on Feb 02, 2009, 20:49:01
...Vajayjay...
Hahahahahah! Yeah, I know I'm immature.
I've never had much success with derma-bond or superglue. I do like steri-strips, though.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: 904cafe on Feb 03, 2009, 16:40:51
So this is more of a repair than a mod but it can save a lot of trouble, frustration and money. Upon my CB200's rebuild, the starter button decided to take a crap on me (the button stuck), so I was going to take it apart and like the quote below it "took a crap in my hand". I no longer had a switch but small pieces of a once was switch. Itead of buying a new/used control from eBay or who knows where, I went up to RadioShack and bought myself the smallest "Momentary" switch they had. Depending on your model of bike, you'll prob need a switch/button with three connections, a ground (the center wire) and the lead to the starter and the lead to the headlight. If I remember correctly the headlight wire was green in my case and the starter wire was yellow/red. Simply sauder the three wires to the back of the switch, allowing the headlight to run as the constant, which gets "momentarily" enterupted by the red/yellow starter wire when the button is pushed. The one I purchased from RadioShack fit right down in the slot for the original switch (with a little coaxing). I wish I had taken pictures but I was frustrated and was more worried about getting the switch to work again.

This is a link to several momentary switches RadioShack has, mine was the first on this page (three prong)
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=momentary&origkw=momentary&sr=1 (http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=momentary&origkw=momentary&sr=1)

Searched and couldn't find anything.  What have you guys done to replace/repair the starter button?  How many amps was the stock one rated for?  Opened up the whole assembly tonight and the plastic casing that held the switch took a crap in my hand. 

scott
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 03, 2009, 19:13:12
when we get to 15 pages i will sort this and organize it... then repost it all up...
*just wanted to give a bit of an update*
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Bouncer on Feb 03, 2009, 19:55:01
easy fix... glue some screen on the inside man, will still look cool an have the protection you need

My thoughts exactly Joe.


I wanted to do something different then everyone with the "holey" look. 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 03, 2009, 19:57:06
ya man just use some silicone on there and you will be all good... if you want... i have a TON of screen... from what i needed to make my v stack screens... you can have whatever you need... what you got going on this weekend? i am going to try to make it into the shop... if i can ill knock out your rotors for you
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Feb 03, 2009, 23:08:19
I got tired of looking at the big black plastic switches on the Yamaha XS650, Man what ugly crap things they are!!  so I replaced them with switches from a Brit Bike shop.  For about 20 bucks I got a reproduction switch called a TriCon.  It has the horn button, a high/low dipper, and a red kill button that I used for a starter switch.  It all fit on the left side between the grip and the lever perch, and they really cleaned up the bars.  I also dumped the right side that had the on/off, and starter button, now I just run a key switch that I mounted under the tank.  After getting rid of those chunks of crap and the stock instruments the head stock area really opened up and looks a lot better. I also used a Amal style thottle tube to replace the Yamaha tube.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 04, 2009, 11:26:35
all this cool crap an no pictures man!!! come on, what a tease that is! show us!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Feb 04, 2009, 21:26:47
I would post pics but, quite frankly, I'm embarassed to show my garage!!  When I get going on a project I don't even think about putting shit away or sweeping or anything, I just focus on the task at hand.  My shop where I teach school is far more orgnaized and cleaner than my garage!!!!  I hope that doesn't make me a bad person, but this weekend I'll cleanup a bit and take some pics.  Believe it or not it's cold as hell here in North Florida this week, not Chicago or Toronto cold, but cold for us pussy boys in Floriday.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: autoguy on Feb 05, 2009, 00:53:36
I would post pics but, quite frankly, I'm embarassed to show my garage!!  When I get going on a project I don't even think about putting shit away or sweeping or anything, I just focus on the task at hand.  My shop where I teach school is far more orgnaized and cleaner than my garage!!!!  I hope that doesn't make me a bad person, but this weekend I'll cleanup a bit and take some pics.  Believe it or not it's cold as hell here in North Florida this week, not Chicago or Toronto cold, but cold for us pussy boys in Floriday.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.

cant look any worse than my garage or some other folks garages on here  :)

cold in florida, what is it around 50 degrees ? ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Feb 05, 2009, 22:40:26
Nope, here in Jacksonville we're more like south GA.  We just pretend to be tropic.  Going down in 20's tonight and that my northern friends is plenty cold for N. Fla. , just a balmy day in Toronto!  When I worked in Chicago back in the late 70's I remember getting out the T-shirts when it hit the 40's, not so nowadays!!

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Feb 05, 2009, 23:05:16
And by the way, I love Toronto!!!!  One of the nicest places in N. America.  I just love it more in the late spring and summer.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: adamrjordan on Feb 06, 2009, 11:52:36
Terry:

Can you explain some more about how you removed the light cluster and relocated the key ignition? I'm trying to figureout how to get rid of the light cluster and just have the key ignition so that it gives me more room to lower my tach and speedo for a more streamline look. Any info would be appreciated.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: anarki650 on Feb 06, 2009, 14:07:52
Terry:

Can you explain some more about how you removed the light cluster and relocated the key ignition? I'm trying to figureout how to get rid of the light cluster and just have the key ignition so that it gives me more room to lower my tach and speedo for a more streamline look. Any info would be appreciated.

I did something similar on my kz650 build.  I removed the cluster completely, bought 2.25" mini gauges from www.mikesxs.com, flipped my headlight bucket upside down so it had room inside for the key switch, then I installed a single LED for the oil light (being the only idiot light I cared about keeping from the stock cluster).  Here's a couple pics of the process and complete set up.  Total cost....$0!!!!
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/anarki650/headlightbucket.jpg)
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/anarki650/gauges2.jpg)
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/anarki650/gauges.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Derek4Real3 on Feb 06, 2009, 17:44:41
my buddy ICE came up wiht this one... works great i use it all the time to clean up wires and get it together:
Cheap alterative to the billet clamps and other bought stuff. Use zip ties and tuding to create your own spacers. Turns out to be shock mounted too.

(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w210/icecaps65/DSCN0785.jpg)


(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w210/icecaps65/DSCN0781.jpg)

(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w210/icecaps65/DSCN0782.jpg)


this ones for you JRK:  (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/yourmomsrps13/IMG_0407.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 06, 2009, 17:47:10
really cleans it up doenst it!! looks good
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Feb 07, 2009, 19:21:31
Here's pic of the handlebars and key switch I was talking about.

Terry
J'ville, Fl
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Bouncer on Feb 08, 2009, 12:30:44
Engine stand mounts:

2inch angled iron and a couple 1/2" washers: $20ish


(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/perfectformula/My%20CB%20750/CB020-1.jpg)

(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/perfectformula/My%20CB%20750/CB022.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: jfsebastian on Feb 09, 2009, 04:16:00
Guys, love this thread.

I think my $10 solo seat qualifies.
Here is the finished result. To view the process, look at my blog. japbobbers.blogspot.com
Dont want to have 6 pics here to make any eager downloaders having to wait.

JF
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on Feb 10, 2009, 06:13:25
This is more of a product endorsement than a mod, but I tried this finish by Rustoleum.  I wanted a low sheen look to my aluminum bits, and after weeks of painstaking wire brushing and sanding I gave up on getting a uniform matte finish.  I didn't want to spray a flat color so I went on the prowl.  Picked this up at Wal-Mart for <$4 a can.  One can did my aluminum drum covers and the odds and ends.  Coats even and quick.  Just watch for floating debris, this shyte stays tacky as hell for 10 mins...

http://www.flecto.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=21&SBL=1 (http://www.flecto.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=21&SBL=1)

I'll post some before & after at the when I hit the wrenches today.  Gives a wrinkled powder coated/hammer forged look that seems pretty tough.  I already accidentally dropped the front brake cover about 4' onto wood floors 6 hrs after painting with no dents or chips, except to the Wifey's floor.... oops.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dentedvw on Feb 10, 2009, 15:38:18
Ah, good old Rustoleum hammered. (http://www.flecto.com/images/product/ps_stopsrust_hammered04.jpg)

It's pretty good, I like Hammerite in it's place mostly though. I used to use that a lot on my Jeep, it's really durable.

After that, it's POR-15. Really tough stuff.  :o
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: IMOALE on Feb 12, 2009, 01:25:38
Checked out the POR-15 site very very very interesting speciallly the two part hardnose paints.  HMMMMM
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Feb 12, 2009, 01:32:20
This thread should be turned into a DTT wiki
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: autoguy on Feb 12, 2009, 01:47:35
Checked out the POR-15 site very very very interesting speciallly the two part hardnose paints.  HMMMMM

i bought a fuel tank repair kit from por15 and from what i have used, it is a good product, i cant say how there paint is but they ship fast and are friendly on the phone :)

i would buy from them again
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Feb 12, 2009, 09:34:25
Koozie Seat:

There’s obviously a lot of different materials around to use as seat cushions but I happened to have a few beer koozies layin around when I did mine, so why not! They’re water proof, they retain their form and thickness real well, and they’re like a $1.00ea if you had to buy 'em!

I used 1/8” backerboard for my base, then cut the koozies up, glued them down and just layed a bit of batting over top and wrapped the whole thing in leather. One layer of koozies is enough to keep your ass nice and comfy  ;D !

(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/herm1050/100_5472.jpg)
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/herm1050/100_5473.jpg)
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/herm1050/100_5475.jpg)
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/herm1050/104_6403.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 12, 2009, 12:38:28
wow man that is awesome! how about a bit of a tutorial on the stictching process as well?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: supercafe on Feb 12, 2009, 13:15:34
nice job.
i am doing mine close to the same way.
useing a fiberglass bottom instead. and some rebounding foam.
nice ad comfy, i would also like a write up on how you did the leather wrapping!!!!
thanks.
later.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Bouncer on Feb 12, 2009, 19:31:26
Herm,

Looks awesome, what did you use for the overall base of the seat is that fiberglass? How did you go about mounting the koozie with the 1/8" backboard to the fiberglass? Velcro?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Feb 12, 2009, 21:26:55
wow man that is awesome! how about a bit of a tutorial on the stictching process as well?

Not sure I can explain how I sewed it up in any way that sounds easy, but trust me it’s really a lot easier than I’ll make it sound. I did it by hand with needle and commercial grade thread. It was the first time for me and was all trial and error, but I only had to do it twice :).

I started with a large enough piece of leather to wrap the whole seat. traced an outline of the backerboard on the underside of the leather and cut it about 1” inch longer than the outline. Then took that piece, and the excess that was cut from that piece put the good sides of the leather back to back and started stitching them together following the original trace line I made. You’ll need to adjust the “excess” piece a bit as you stitch because the excess will be bigger by an inch and won’t match up (it’s the extra inch you cut). When done, trim some of that 1” off and turn it right side out and it should fit your seat cushion perfectly. Then I just glued the underside of the leather to the underside of backerboard with some silicone adhesive, and I got a seat cushion!


Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Feb 12, 2009, 21:30:03
Herm,

Looks awesome, what did you use for the overall base of the seat is that fiberglass? How did you go about mounting the koozie with the 1/8" backboard to the fiberglass? Velcro?

Yeah, the actual seat itself is fiberglass. The build thread link is below.

The 3 bolts you see sticking out of the backerboard are lag bolts, I “dremmelled” squares in the backerboard so they fit nice and tight and JB welded them in. The bolts then run through the fiberglass seat and cross braces on the frame and are secured by wing nuts. I also drilled some holes at the end of the bolts for some hitch pins….this setup lets me remove the entire seat in about 30 seconds.

http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=3568.msg28698#msg28698


Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Jason TEAMSHRALP on Feb 19, 2009, 03:36:21
saw this in another thread. It's a tip for cutting threaded rod.
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip092900sn.html (http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip092900sn.html)

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Feb 19, 2009, 17:10:39
Lightweight corrosion proof battery box!

So it's starting to warm up a bit here in sunny Portland and I've been getting my regular bikes ready to ride, yesterday I was concentrating on my SuperIII when I noticed that the battery box is glass filled nylon ie: really light and durable and won't rust.
It's hung from the sides with four bolts and has provisions on the bottom for another bracket. I can see where this layout would allow for all kinds of creative mountings and since it's not shiny and completely encases the battery it'll hide well in the open.
I wanted one for my 450/500T hybrid and called around to a few local wreckers and there are lots available since they used the same box in just about everything since '89. Average price has been $12.50 out the door.

Not bad in my humble opinion.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: loudest143 on Feb 20, 2009, 10:59:31
I had a chinese scooter before I bought my big boy bike, and I found it had numerous flaws in design from the factory.  I needed to lose the stock airbox, and add a unifilter.  When I did that, my oil breather hose, which was attached to the stock airbox needed to go somewhere.  There was more than a tablespoon of oil gathered in the bottom of the stock box, so I didn't feel comfortable with routing the breather hose out the bottom of the bike to possibly add some 'slick' to the rear tire.  It was squirrely enough to ride on 13's without adding any slidey slippery stuff on the tires!

My solution was to find something that would easily fit into the space and would be easy to empty if necessary.  It also had to breathe, as that was the whole point to an OIL BREATHER.  I didn't really have any ideas, other than it should be something easy to work with, so aluminum was at the top of the list.  Actually free and already designed was at the top of the list, but no such luck.  Something with some creative style was also in order.  Space is extremely limited, as this fits under the seat, and over the cylinder head, and behind the carb.  Tight fit!

Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you my less than $50 dollar mod:  Martini Shaker Oil Breather.

2- 4" hose clamps, local auto store.
1- 10" aluminum flat stock, laying around the garage.  It attaches to stock bolt holes, then is riveted to hose clamps.
1- threaded brake hose fitting.  I drilled out the ball, and bolted the fitting into the bottom of the shaker with a washer on each side for more strengh.
1- brushed aluminum martini shaker, $8.00 at Target. (department store here in the US for you out of towners. ;) )

The breather is easily removed from the clamps, and can be emptied into your dirty oil container and re-installed. I leave the top cap off, as the breather is supposed to be vented, and the martini strainer is just the thing for that.  The liquid that gathers inside never got up high enough to splash out.

Enjoy.
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h165/loudest143/P1010008-1.jpg)

(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h165/loudest143/P1010001.jpg)

(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h165/loudest143/P1010002.jpg)

(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h165/loudest143/shaker.jpg)

Below is a pic of the scoot to give you some idea of what I was working with last winter.

(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h165/loudest143/P1010001-2.jpg)

loudest143
*who says drinking and driving doesn't mix?  ;D
Title: Cheap ass soda blaster
Post by: Terry on Feb 21, 2009, 08:13:03
I saw this posted over on the SR500 forum and thought it might be perfect for here.  I haven't tried this but I'm gonna make one next week and check it out.  http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/       

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: Cheap ass soda blaster
Post by: troybilt on Feb 21, 2009, 11:30:13
I saw this posted over on the SR500 forum and thought it might be perfect for here.  I haven't tried this but I'm gonna make one next week and check it out.  http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/       

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
So simple...Thank you for posting this. I'll be doing this very soon. I was wondering how I was going to clean my carbs. Know I know.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 21, 2009, 12:47:46
hell ya! this post is rocking! i am going to hvae to organize it this weekend!! ill put a link page on the first page to help navigate it a bit... ill do that this weekend! hell ya guys keep the ideas coming!
Title: Re: Cheap ass soda blaster
Post by: boomshakalaka on Feb 21, 2009, 16:54:56
So simple...Thank you for posting this. I'll be doing this very soon. I was wondering how I was going to clean my carbs. Know I know.

fuck yeah man!  I was going to pay to get a bunch of engine parts blasted.  Then a friend of a friend said I could use his sand blaster, but that has yet to materialize, and Im getting impatient.  Ive been considering putting together my own setup.. but now Im thinking Ill just do this.  The only question I have though is, what compressor should I get?  It says you dont need a "big" one, but I have no clue what they mean by that.

edit: just emailed the guy who did the write up.  Ill post here with any response I get from him.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 21, 2009, 17:09:08
boom if you want man i can set this up at my house and you can use it... I have no problem with that... not a bad little set up man! let me know if you can't get that to roll wiht your compressor and i will set mine up for you. just let me know whats up!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Feb 21, 2009, 17:43:09
boom if you want man i can set this up at my house and you can use it... I have no problem with that... not a bad little set up man! let me know if you can't get that to roll wiht your compressor and i will set mine up for you. just let me know whats up!

Well I dont even have a compressor!  Heh.. but Im willing to buy one if its inexpensive enough because its just good to have, even if its a small one.  Cleaning parts and then trying to use a can of compressed air to get stuff out of all the nooks and crannies is annoying as hell.  So it wouldnt hurt to have a small compressor in my shop anyways.  However, it would be awesome if maybe we could set this up real quick at your place to test it out.  Then I can know if its worth it or not to get a compressor myself.  Sooo.. long story short: fuck yeah! When do you wanna do this?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Feb 22, 2009, 13:14:29
Boom, a compressor is the best money spent on the shop space., next to a good work table and vise.  I got a 12 gal comp from Sears on sale for less than 150 and I run everything from nail guns to paint sprayers, no problem.  Just remember the larger the tank the less the compressor will run and that means less noise in the shop.  Or, with the ecomnomy the way it is, check out the pawn shops and those cheesey "trader" papers could probably get one really cheap.  A 25'-50' hose and fittings at Harbor Freight would run less than 25$, you're in business.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CThor on Feb 22, 2009, 23:10:49
I tried out the soda blaster today.  It works pretty good.  It did a good job of removing the varnish from the carbs.  My carbs definitely didn't turn out looking new  like the after picture on the link.  I did try it out in a little spot on my rear hub though and it was cleaning that pretty good.  I'll try it out some more tomorrow on the hub but I think it may take quite a lot of soda to do it that way.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: brewtown16 on Feb 25, 2009, 12:56:38
well, i finally have something worthy of sharing, but i dont know if anyone else has brought it up. Plasti-dip, its rubberized tool dip that costs about 7 bucks a 14 ounce can, and comes in a crap ton of colors. ill list off the applications. i took my levers and chopped the ball ends on the front brake and clutch, then dipped them a few times in the graphite grey for a real racy look, and it slips when you want it to, and grips when it needs to! ive also used these for when making custom wire looms, i literally dip the whole wire grouping in a 1" cookie sheet, then keep turning it like a rotisserie and hit it with a blowdryer. you can also use this to repair cracked clutch or throttle cables. when i swapped out my muffs on the 360 i lost the rubber stops for the bottom of the can where the kickstand hits. i taped off a square on the can, then used a paintbrush, and built it up. ive also used it on my seat mounts, because i am running 4 steel tabs off the top of the frame to where the fiberglass mounts. all i did was paint it on the top and it really makes the diffrence! they have many diffrent kinds from course grit to smooth and shiny. it also helps if you have areas that rub together, and tend to become rusty. clean up the area, dip or paint! this stuff is also semi sand-able, so go nuts!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 25, 2009, 13:01:35
AWESOME!!! i have a crack in my tach cable!!! great idea man!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Feb 25, 2009, 16:02:13
Lemon juice!

So I'm cleaning up a rack of OEM Hinckley Triumph carbs that are slated to go on my XS850.
I stumbled across an article somewhere about using citrus to clean parts and decided to use it here and see how it goes.
The carbs have a grand total of 330 miles on them so there's no appreciable wear but they are gummed up because I was stupid and didn't clean them out when I put them away after going to flatslides on the Super3.

Anyway, it's ridiculously simple. Take the major bits off/out and soak the carbs and bits in lemon juice, you cna speed the process by warming it up on the stove if you have a pot large enough.

That's it, just lemon juice.

The rack of carbs was really gummy and all the parts that came from them had that icky gooey green stuff that comes from dead gas. I let them soak overnight then warmed them on the stove for an hour at around 150 degrees (use a candy thermometer...just don't tell your girl). After some light scrubbing with an old tooth brush and some simple green these things look like new, the throttle action is smooth again and all the jets and passages flow nicely!
Booyah!

Total cost: $10 for the lemon juice at a local restaurant supply joint by my shop(couple gallons), 30 cents or so worth of simple green and an old toothbrush. Ok...some flowers for the girl too...she caught me with her 'good' canning pot and candy thermometer.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 25, 2009, 16:03:45
that is how i clean all my carbs! just need an old dollar store pot and a little bottle of lemon juice! works awesome! you can even toss your jets in there!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Feb 25, 2009, 16:14:33
Where can I score myself some of this plastidip??
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 25, 2009, 16:24:25
any hardware store should have it... i know home depot has it
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: zixxerboy on Feb 26, 2009, 14:32:15
JRK - do you use the lemon juice cold? or heat it too? Lastly do you just rinse them off or are you cleaning with the simple green after too?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 26, 2009, 14:45:17
i mix 1/4 juice to 3/4 water... boil the carbs in that for about 20 min adding water as it gets low... i did not use simple green... though do not see why it would hurt... it is great to clean stuff up... then i rinse it all off in the sink... blow it out with the compressor and done...
on stuff that is really really bad or when people tried to paint  the carbs or something like htat i have a chemical dip that i put them in... it is basicly a big paint can with carb cleaner, put the carbs on the screen and leave them in there for a bit... take them out and rinse them... then do the juice and water treatment...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: zixxerboy on Feb 26, 2009, 23:14:04
I've used the carb dip. As I recall both toxic and expensive.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: souperman on Feb 27, 2009, 02:34:46
Will lemon juice clean the grey crap off a freshly dipped carb?  I soaked my carbs in a can of cleaner overnight and ended up with a nasty coating of grey shit on the outside.  I'm hoping there's an easy way to get this off besides a tiny wire brush?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 27, 2009, 11:28:32
it should man... you may also want to give that solda blast a shot that was in this thread a few back... seemed like a solid idea!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Feb 27, 2009, 13:13:11
Update on the soda blaster. I tried it here and after swapping to a larger diameter chunk of hose it rocked the cassbah!
That grey crap on your carbs is actually the metal surface sluffing away, you'll want to be careful with that. My dad was cleaning some old ZG1000 carbs the other day and ended up ruining the slides, they lots a lot of material and now don't meter flow correctly.
He shoulda used lemon juice but he refuses to listen to me......old guys...what'er ya gonna do?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CThor on Feb 27, 2009, 13:36:53
Hey what diameter hose did you go to?  I used the 7/16" and it worked pretty good but didn't clean up the outside of the carbs. 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Feb 27, 2009, 13:44:34
I had a chunk of 1/2" that worked well...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: troybilt on Feb 27, 2009, 15:06:03
Update on the soda blaster. I tried it here and after swapping to a larger diameter chunk of hose it rocked the cassbah!
That grey crap on your carbs is actually the metal surface sluffing away, you'll want to be careful with that. My dad was cleaning some old ZG1000 carbs the other day and ended up ruining the slides, they lots a lot of material and now don't meter flow correctly.
He shoulda used lemon juice but he refuses to listen to me......old guys...what'er ya gonna do?
Hey swager, was wondering if you have any photos during/after the process. Also, what are your plans for the carbs ie:paint or clear etc..? My carbs are clean but they look like crap. I have to do something with them but I don't want to spend my life doing it  ;) Thanks, Troy
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: IMOALE on Mar 02, 2009, 01:37:22
I had to take my shocks apart to paint and polish.   I'm not a big tough guy and could no push the spring down.  So this is what I used. These cheap plastic clamps and have come in real handy.  They can also be flipped and used as spreaders.  Which I used to split the cases. 

One quick not be carefull where the springs  are pointed!!!!!!!

 (http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp55/IMOALE/CB350%20BUILD/DVC00800.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Mar 02, 2009, 02:05:35
How do you take the shocks apart?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Mar 02, 2009, 02:17:07

One quick not be carefull where the springs  are pointed!!!!!!!




lol, I just hope you didnt have to learn this the hard way!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: IMOALE on Mar 02, 2009, 02:27:05
I dont think you can take them completely apart, but you can remove the spring.  I just compressed it using the clamps, the two retainers fall right out. 

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp55/IMOALE/CB350%20BUILD/DVC00790.jpg)

Almost Boom almot LOL got a little scare there once.

Really wanna see pics of the soda blasting.  thinking of making one out of a small disposable balloon air tank.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Mar 02, 2009, 03:22:05
ya, Im keeping my eye out for a compressor at agood price on cr..  It will be good to have a compressor either way.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: zixxerboy on Mar 02, 2009, 14:00:11
shocks come apart in a similar fashion to valve retainers
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 02, 2009, 14:15:09
i took part about 5 sets last night for powder... i have 2 more to do tonight... ill take pics when i pull them apart and how they go back together after powder
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Mar 02, 2009, 17:35:41
I have these shocks...

(http://www.cb750cafe.com/cache/photos/82b2975c5f4c9bf9af4c1c77df57edb9.jpg)

I've been told by a few people that they are 'not serviceable' but it seems like Carpy got them apart.  I'll give the vice a try.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Mar 02, 2009, 17:54:08
Is that part of a revolver?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Mar 02, 2009, 18:13:02
That's just a cover that carpy uses.  I don't have that.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 02, 2009, 18:15:26
the compressor i use to pull out shocks looks like this
(http://www.denniskirk.com/denniskirk/b2c/product_images/e/3/8/600pix/e38050029.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Mar 02, 2009, 18:25:06
That looks a lot less dangerous!  How much do those things go for?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Mar 02, 2009, 18:29:49
looks like a good candidate for a less than $50 mod!  probably wouldn't cost more than $10 to make.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Mar 02, 2009, 19:07:58
Boooya!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: LL on Mar 02, 2009, 19:12:35
Man you must have just the right clamps because that lip of the retainer on the top of the shocks is so small that most clamps will just slide right off. There's not enough meat on there to hook them to.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 02, 2009, 21:00:43
i got mine i think for 60 bucks but it has paid for itself over and over as i do powder alot of shocks! if you are local just come by man ill tear them apart for you in no time!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: IMOALE on Mar 02, 2009, 22:05:32
The spring doent need to compress much for the retainer to come off or on.  That is a nice tool though just wouldnt be too usefull for me to keep laying around though, and it does look easy to make.   The clamps are all plastic an have a nice thin front lip which hold okay.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: rabq08 on Mar 02, 2009, 23:40:59
nice looking shocks Represto, whats the make and whered ya get them?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: troybilt on Mar 02, 2009, 23:51:46
Looks like it just clamps (bolt through the eye of shock) and on the other end it clamps to the spring itself (offset to hold each side of the spring as the spring spirals). I agree, looks very easy to make. Joe that thing will come in handy!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: VonYinzer on Mar 03, 2009, 16:34:43
For those of you takin shocks apart go to an autozone and rent a shock compressing tool. I think its 15 bucks and you get that back opon return. Also if anyones using rattlecan paint for anything, soak the cans in hot water for 20 min or so before you paint. The heat will help to atomize the paint much more efficiently. Ive seen spraybomb jobs come out as nice as a real paintjob when the cans were soaked beforehand....
NOTE: I shouldnt have to say this but just in case.... When i say hot water i mean hot, as in out of the tap... Dont go boiling paint cans tryin to get that perfect finish.........
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Mar 03, 2009, 16:53:27
The ones in the picture are not off my bike.  That's a Carpy pic...but I have the same ones.  The shocks are off a 900f.  I scored em last year for $30 off craigslist.  I really like em.  Stiff and a bit longer than what came stock on the 550.  They really changed the feel of the bike.  But...they're getting pretty dirty/ugly and the paint looks like shit. 

I've been sticking my rattle cans on the heating ducts for a bit before using them.  The paint does come out a helluva lot smoother when the can is warmer. 

JRK, I would love to come by your shop...but alas, I'm in Toronto and you're...well...somewhere warm.  So I'm assuming somewhere south.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 03, 2009, 17:13:39
For those of you takin shocks apart go to an autozone and rent a shock compressing tool. I think its 15 bucks and you get that back opon return. Also if anyones using rattlecan paint for anything, soak the cans in hot water for 20 min or so before you paint. The heat will help to atomize the paint much more efficiently. Ive seen spraybomb jobs come out as nice as a real paintjob when the cans were soaked beforehand....
NOTE: I shouldnt have to say this but just in case.... When i say hot water i mean hot, as in out of the tap... Dont go boiling paint cans tryin to get that perfect finish.........

hey bud although a great idea... it will not work... auto spring compressors are WAY to big
to give you an idea these shocks are off a radian they have some of the largest spaces between the coils you can find
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2yk05qp.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: VonYinzer on Mar 03, 2009, 18:10:46
they carry two different types...... there is the strut spring compressor which is way too big like the one you have there, and another one, which i cant remember the name of now..... i worked at an autozone a few years back, so the memories are a bit fuzzy. if you ask them to let you look through their rental tools, theres all kinds of neat stuff that they dont advertise they have.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Mar 03, 2009, 18:31:19
can people who tried the soda blaster post up specs of their compressor?

oh and did you get a chance to try out the blaster jrk?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 03, 2009, 18:32:47
nope man... i just got a new powder gun... it ROCKS!!! i have been laying powder like crazy...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Mar 03, 2009, 20:11:43
nope man... i just got a new powder gun... it ROCKS!!! i have been laying powder like crazy...

oh, nice!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: VonYinzer on Mar 03, 2009, 20:55:18
Just used a product called "evapo-rust" and i gotta tell ya.... AWESOME, and under 10 bucks. Picked it up at the local auto parts store. You just soak rusty whatever in it for at least 30min, rinse her off and thats it. If you let it air dry it protects from flash rust for two weeks. On top of all that, its biodegradable, with no fumes, so use it at the kitchen table, that dump it down the kitchen sink. I bought a small bottle. Not sure how much the gallon runs.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: VonYinzer on Mar 03, 2009, 20:56:51
nope man... i just got a new powder gun... it ROCKS!!! i have been laying powder like crazy...
How much to do my shocks if i send em out to ya?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CThor on Mar 04, 2009, 00:52:25
can people who tried the soda blaster post up specs of their compressor?

oh and did you get a chance to try out the blaster jrk?

I just used my small 6 gallon compressor for the soda blaster.  Just had to let it fill the tank up once in a while.  It worked pretty good though.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Jason TEAMSHRALP on Mar 04, 2009, 03:17:47
Well here's the latest project. I took my inspiration from a fellow KZ400 builder. A good buddy had the exhaust ready to be scrapped so I figured I couldn't justify not trying this out considering the cost.

Materials used:
-worn out stock exhaust from an '81 KZ440D
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e229/valvesprung/440stock.jpg)
-cocktail shakers (x2, purchased at ROSS for $6/ea)
(http://devkient.com/images/cocktailshecker/Cocktail-Shaker-Regular-with-Design.jpg)
-1200 deg header paint
-heat wrap (grabbed from last exhaust)
-Duplicolor 500 deg Ceramic low gloss black (same as frame and engine)

Now the 440 system uses plate baffles rather then stuffing/fiberglass to muffle the sound. It gives the bike a throatier sound then the early bikes, but it's still very quiet.

crappy MSPaint pic to show basic idea:
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e229/valvesprung/tehawesomepchop.jpg)

Basically we cut down below both of the upper plates leaving only the lowest in the pipe. There is now only a plate with an off-center hole baffling the sounds and it's loud...but good loud..."f-ing angry gonna eat your babies" loud, but not quite "open pipe, gonna rupture your ear drum" loud

First cut (quickly moved to power tools...)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e229/valvesprung/before.jpg)

Then cut the strainers off of the cock tail shaker caps and slip them into position:
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e229/valvesprung/almost.jpg)

Painted the head pipes with header paint (had some decent surface rust and pitting), wrapped em up, shot the "mufflers" in ceramic black, tossed the caps and chrome shields on and.......
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e229/valvesprung/done1.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e229/valvesprung/done3.jpg)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e229/valvesprung/done2.jpg)

As soon as the new gaskets arrive I'll post installed pics with a real camera and maybe shoot a quick video. For about $42 I'm super happy with the results. The ride I took after a simple test fit felt much more open, sounds great, and and really got the neighbors lookin  :cool:
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 04, 2009, 10:54:07
How much to do my shocks if i send em out to ya?

send me a picture of the shocks you have now... if they are in decent condition and will not req hours of prep work... ill do any of ya'lls springs for 35 for the set (you pay shipping of course) * that is 30 bucks off what i normally charge to do dissassembly, powder, and re assembly... for an extra 20 ill also clean up the actaul shock for you... let me know if you need any help

*that is for black, specialty powders cost more so i have to charge more. 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: VonYinzer on Mar 04, 2009, 11:16:17
send me a picture of the shocks you have now... if they are in decent condition and will not req hours of prep work... ill do any of ya'lls springs for 35 for the set (you pay shipping of course) * that is 30 bucks off what i normally charge to do dissassembly, powder, and re assembly... for an extra 20 ill also clean up the actaul shock for you... let me know if you need any help

*that is for black, specialty powders cost more so i have to charge more. 
Cool... Ill get ya a pic asap.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 04, 2009, 11:16:51
no worries man
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 04, 2009, 13:01:09
ok... i have added the index... crap took me forever to get it done... i added the name of the person that listed the mod so it is easier to find... hope this helps us out!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Mar 04, 2009, 13:35:14
ok... i have added the index... crap took me forever to get it done... i added the name of the person that listed the mod so it is easier to find... hope this helps us out!

Thanks Joe!  I was going to start bugging you about it, but I figured you were busy actually building bikes.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on Mar 04, 2009, 18:19:57
Here is a great idea suggested by GammaFlat over at SOHC4
Original Thread = http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=47239.15 (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=47239.15)

Quote
GammaFlat:

The below picture shows a Ford Regulator (Duralast VR730) available at AutoZone for 13 bucks (sitting next to a Honda VR).  I tore it apart - it used to be mechanical inside like the Honda's but is now solid state but has the same "form factor"/case that it had when originally introduced.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn34/drl001/FORUMS/IMG_0200.jpg)

I tore it apart and tin-snipped the daylights out of it to get it down to this - compare the size of the white connector with the above picture - it's the same "guts" with all the tin cut away (now 2"x2" overall):
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn34/drl001/FORUMS/IMG_0211.jpg)

After I butchered up the Ford regulator - I hope to get it inside the Honda enclosure (yes, it's the same one as the above pic.  I pulled the top off - it seemed to be glued, then I got the tin snips out and cut away most of the rest (The AutoZone part number is VR730):
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn34/drl001/FORUMS/IMG_0246.jpg)

RadioShack rectifiers (25A 50V) - better ones can be used but I got antsy and found them locally.
Find it here: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062584 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062584)
Also shown in this pic is a heat sink from an AMD CPU based computer (not sure of the vintage but heat sinks are cheap and widely available - mine is just an old spare part.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn34/drl001/FORUMS/IMG_0242.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Mar 04, 2009, 18:39:13
That's awesome!  before you know it, I'll have every electrical component on my bike replaced with modern solid state stuff.  I've already done the rectifier swap.  I also swapped out the fuse holder with a waterproof heavy duty blade type.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 05, 2009, 02:26:17
Chrome cable wraps
ok... since my cables where all done i did this how to using my oil lines for my oil cooler... still the same idea though
what you need...
http://cableorganizer.com/chrome-sleeving/

5/16 will do most cables and what not, may have to go a touch bigger on the cables for the tach and speedo (i did mine in side entry black... another write up for another day)

here is how you do it:
what you need,
1. cable or hose (what your wrapping)
2. lighter or heat gun
3. razor to clean up the wrap after it is heated
4. wire sleeving
5. shring wrap
6. Scissors
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2ir2544.jpg)

before you start cut it smooth and heat that end wiht a lighter to melt it together a bit... this will help keep the end together as you stretch it around to get it started on the item you are wrapping:
(http://i41.tinypic.com/347tjxc.jpg)

when you start to install this stuff go slow, push it up on the cable and then pull it down... it moves inch by inch (least it does on rubber, on reg cables it slides on pretty easy)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/vrg8ra.jpg)

before you cut the wrap to length slide on your shrink wrap... it will make it SO much easier to get on without fraying up the ends
(http://i39.tinypic.com/102kqwp.jpg)

once you get the wrap to the lenght you want it you have to cut it... it will fray out a bit... i use a lighter to heat it up (it does spark up after a bit under the flame) just blow it out and use your finger to dab down the fray ends so it is melted tight
(http://i44.tinypic.com/1z1wspt.jpg)


slide the shrink wrap over that and heat with lighter (or heat gun)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/302bewm.jpg)


finished product:
(http://i41.tinypic.com/2h6arh3.jpg)

Black on my HD
(http://i37.tinypic.com/v7tr88.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 05, 2009, 13:18:55
8 dollar tender
as many of you know our charging systems BLOW balls... here is a good anwer to that so you can plug in your ride at night

what you need:

harbor freight floating charger
quick release plugs (radio shack)
2 wire hoops
solder
shring wrap
solder gun

-pick this up:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42292

(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/42200-42299/42292.gif)

-then cut off the alligator clips
solder on the wire hoops so that it will hook right up to your battery

- from here cut the line right after the slinky part of the cable and solder in the quick release:

- hook it all up...
done!
(http://i39.tinypic.com/4rvtop.jpg)

(http://i40.tinypic.com/2emd0sn.jpg)

plugs right into the wall
(http://i41.tinypic.com/mll79d.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Mar 05, 2009, 13:53:05
You didn't mention how much that cost.  I got a Battery Tender Jr. for Christmas for $32.  It comes with some battery connectors (with inline fuse) that end in a plug.  I mounted it on my bike and attached the plug to the seat lock with a zip-tie.  On the actual tender side, you can either plug in the provided clips, or plug in your bike.  The plug on the bike even has a cover!  Genius!

(https://www.cyclegear.com/images/StreetAcc/battery%20tender%20jr_410x360.jpg) 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 05, 2009, 13:56:05
i added the price... the tender was 6 bucks, the plug and wire hoops cost about 2... total = $8 quick release and it can stay hooked up to your bike so you do not have hte aligator clips... you can make the same thing with what you have {just cost a bit more :) }
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Mar 05, 2009, 14:02:31
$8 is a little better than $32.   ;)  That's alright, it was a gift.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Mar 06, 2009, 10:12:03
I LOVE THIS THREAD! What a collection of great ideas!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: zixxerboy on Mar 06, 2009, 14:37:35
instead of martini shakers the end of a plumber propane torch will also make a nice pipe end. Used that after squishing the end of my can in a get off years ago.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 06, 2009, 14:39:08
a get off? is that when you bang a chick on your scoot?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: brewtown16 on Mar 06, 2009, 20:46:08
a get off? is that when you bang a chick on your scoot?

bahahahahhahaha!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: zixxerboy on Mar 07, 2009, 10:16:47
"get off" "threw it away" call it what you will

I found a recipe for revitalizing old rubber parts. Said to work great. But I can't find one of the ingredients so I can't really comment.

Basically a mixture of 3 parts xylene to 1 part wintergreen oil. Wintergreen oil is at any drugstore. xylene is a thinner for hard to thin paints but I can't find a source. maybe the painters here can chime in. it would be great to be able to soften old carb boots etc....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Deviant1 on Mar 07, 2009, 13:25:10
I've just found a spare rubber tank mount in my parts stash, which is good cuz my old one's hangin on by a thread, but this "new" one is all hard and stiff... I've got xylene in the garage and I'm going to try to find some wintergreen oil and try it out. Excellent tip!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Useful Idiot on Mar 07, 2009, 19:42:12
This is for all you CB450/500 owners that have torsion bars instead of valve springs when you need to rebuild your top end. The manual calls for some Honda tool, but all you really need is a spare socket and a cutting wheel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/FullTilt151/P3070011-1.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 09, 2009, 16:55:22
just hit 56 total mods! keep them coming keep them coming!
I know some of you old school guys have some good tricks... Leon, Dr j... i know you guys got some tricks up your sleeves!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: zixxerboy on Mar 10, 2009, 14:23:40
Deviant1

You have xylene? Where did you get it? - What were you using it for?

Wintergreen oil can be purchased at most drug stores. Let me know how it works - I'd love to able to renew old carb boots....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Deviant1 on Mar 14, 2009, 13:44:43
yep... got mine at the home depot too!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Gryph on Mar 15, 2009, 00:01:05
Coil Power Mod as per "Wired George" http://www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=12&Itemid=26

Made a huge difference on my 79 KZ400.  Prior to the mod I was getting 12 volts at the battery with the ignition on, but only 11.3 volts at the coil.

After the mod I get a full 12 volts at the coil, and the bike starts, idles/revs, wayyyy better than before.

I spent 40 bucks including way too much wire, way too many connectors, and buying my soldering iron!!

Could be done really really cheap.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: souperman on Mar 15, 2009, 02:57:15
Would adding this relay mod help an ignition system that has been converted to an electrical system rather than points?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: anarki650 on Mar 15, 2009, 12:06:43
Would adding this relay mod help an ignition system that has been converted to an electrical system rather than points?

Yes it will.  The mod is done to eliminate the voltage drop as the stock wiring travels from the battery through the harness and kill switch back to the coils.  With the years of resistance that build in the wires the mod just lets your batteries full voltage get to the coils.  Regardless of ignition system (points or electronic) check the power at the coils with the kill switch on and the bike not running.  I was only getting just over 10 volts at the coil before I did the mod, now with a full 12v she's running a lot better! 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 16, 2009, 13:44:22
very cool trick!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Mar 16, 2009, 14:01:49
This little tidbit is getting filed away for my next build that will be getting a new custom wiring harness.  It may even get my current ride running right.  I'll have to check the voltage at the coils.  Thanks!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Mar 16, 2009, 17:43:43
The $50 mod thread should be put in as an appendix to the DTT book.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Mar 16, 2009, 17:55:39
The $50 mod thread should be put in as an appendix to the DTT book.

Thats a good idea. We will see how much room there is relative to the cost of the book. Still collecting images and info for now. But a good idea to keep in mind. -MBS
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: zixxerboy on Mar 17, 2009, 14:04:01
xylene @ homedepot. Any special brand name or just look for xylene on a jug? I'm curious. Here everywhere Ive been people look at me like I had two heads....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Mar 18, 2009, 22:07:16
You should be able to get it there.  If they keep giving you the BS just go to a "old school" hardware or paint store that caters to professional house painters . 

Terry
J'ville, Fl
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Smoking Star on Mar 19, 2009, 09:45:41
If someone is making a DTT book, let me know. my father owns a Commercial printing company and i would be able to do anything through there nice and cheap. let me know.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Mar 19, 2009, 10:06:32
SS, check this thread.

http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=7033.0 (http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=7033.0)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Mar 19, 2009, 12:26:22
If someone is making a DTT book, let me know. my father owns a Commercial printing company and i would be able to do anything through there nice and cheap. let me know.

Yes I am putting together a DTT book. I am planning on using a self publishing company so that I can order them as needed rather than have a whole bunch printed. But depending on how the cost works out I might want to take advantage of your offer. The book won't be ready until the fall, so keep me posted on this. Thanks, -MBS
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Mar 20, 2009, 09:25:33
What's the deadline looking like for submissions MBS? Want to get my bike as presentable as possible before I send pics...

Deadline is Sept. 1. So you have plenty of time. Thanks for the inquiry, but lets keep this thread to $50 mods and put DTT book questions in that thread so the moderators don't pull their hair out. Here is the link:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=7033.0

-MBS

Title: Honda Radio Shack Rectifier
Post by: Koëstom on Mar 21, 2009, 21:31:45

So I test my rectifier and it seems to be bad. I went to Radio Shack and bought the recommended diode for about $4.
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Radio-Shack-276-1185.jpg)(http://www.StatelineSpeed.com/base/siteuploads/images/honda_rectifier/600_Radio-Shack-276-1185.jpg)



I cut an oem rectifier plug off an old wiring harness:
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Rectifier-Plug-Female.jpg)(http://www.statelinespeed.com/base/siteuploads/images/honda_rectifier/600_Rectifier-Plug-Female.jpg)



Then I pushed the terminals out with a small screwdriver:
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Rectifier-Plug.jpg)(http://www.statelinespeed.com/base/siteuploads/images/honda_rectifier/600_Rectifier-Plug.jpg)



This is the plug disassembled:
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Rectifier-Plug-Assembly.jpg)(http://www.statelinespeed.com/base/siteuploads/images/honda_rectifier/600_Rectifier-Plug-Assembly.jpg)



The terminals fit perfectly onto the diode terminals:
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Rectifier-Terminals.jpg)(http://www.statelinespeed.com/base/siteuploads/images/honda_rectifier/600_Rectifier-Terminals.jpg)



I put plastic terminal protectors on the spades, and added bullet terminals to the other ends. Then some heat shrink wrap from Harbor Frieght. I'll need to cut the plug off the wire harness and put some female ends on so this will plug in to it:
(http://www.statelinespeed.com/base/siteuploads/images/honda_rectifier/600_Rectifier-Finished.jpg)



(modified this post today to fix the broken images with updated links to a new server)
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Rectifier-Finished.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Jason TEAMSHRALP on Mar 22, 2009, 01:04:52
Put a magnet inside a plastic bag and use it to pick up all the swarf and crap from around your machinery. When finished, turn the bag inside out to catch all the stuff as you disengage the magnet. Chuck the bag in the bin.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CThor on Mar 26, 2009, 15:54:51
Here's my $50 mod, well less than $3.00  ;D  I was sick of my hand and finger hurting after spray painting so I decided to try out one of the attachments for the top of the cans.  I just got done using it to paint my frame and it worked great!

(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/coreythorson/CIMG1131.jpg)

(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/coreythorson/CIMG1137.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: autoguy on Mar 27, 2009, 01:01:25
those attachments guns for the spray cans are worth every penny, i was painting a lot of metal one day doing construction, i used probably a dozen cans of spray paint, well we had to go to the home depot to get something and i asked the boss if he would buy one of the spray gun attachments because i could not feel my fingers anymore from holding the spray button down :) he bought one and if he had not than i would have bought one :D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 27, 2009, 11:14:20
they do work awesome! only with epoxy paint the overspray is so nuts you have to watch for drips when using those guns... if not it will drip on your item and you will be back to waiting a week before re shooting!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Mar 29, 2009, 11:06:16
LED Gauge Bulbs

Bulbs - 5 for $8 $12

I bought a set of BA9S replacement bulbs on fleabay.  They have 5 LEDs on, 4 small side firing bulbs and one really bright fwd firing one.  I replaced both gauge backlight bulbs, the neutral light and the highbeam light in the bucket.  I found out that I could not replace my blinker indicator light.  There is only one light that comes on whether you have the left or right blinker on.  The wiring is set up so that current flows one way for right and the other way for left.  Since current can only flow one way through LED bulbs, it would only work for one direction.  I'm ashamed to admit how long it took me to figure that out.  I just put the old bulb back in.

(http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/enkmall/Ba9s_5LED_W2.jpg)

On the old CB gauges, the bulbs just go into some holes on the back of the gauges.  You just gently pry the rubber socket holders out of the back and remove the old bulbs.  The ones I got were a little too wide to fit into the holes.  The side firing LEDs stuck out too far.  So, I took some pliers and GENTLY squeezed them in just enough to fit in the holes.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/Sc98-ZYjDdI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/wO4cJGL_oE0/s320/22-01-09_2112.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/Sc98-ZYjDdI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/wO4cJGL_oE0/s1600-h/22-01-09_2112.jpg)

Man those things are bright!

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/Sc98-TRQqkI/AAAAAAAAAaY/Oji61-XoOOQ/s320/22-01-09_2109.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/Sc98-TRQqkI/AAAAAAAAAaY/Oji61-XoOOQ/s1600-h/22-01-09_2109.jpg)

Here you can see the difference between the LED and incandescent bulbs.

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/Sc98-hg0KTI/AAAAAAAAAag/9gfxaX0DOhY/s320/22-01-09_2114.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/Sc98-hg0KTI/AAAAAAAAAag/9gfxaX0DOhY/s1600-h/22-01-09_2114.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Koëstom on Mar 29, 2009, 11:09:55
WOW! Those bulbs are awesome... what a difference.

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Mar 29, 2009, 11:23:47
You don't need the ones with the side firing LEDs for the idiot lights.  The ones I bought came in a pack of 5 so I used them anyway.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: goodfornothing on Mar 29, 2009, 19:57:05
Looks like I'm going to be replacing the old bulbs with some LED's. Great share!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: IMOALE on Mar 30, 2009, 02:46:11
Can you post a link to the seller. For the LEDs
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Mar 30, 2009, 09:33:57
I bought mine from here, http://stores.ebay.com/EnKMall (http://stores.ebay.com/EnKMall), but there are many other sellers on ebay.  They ship from HK so they take a week or two.  I actually got mine surprisingly fast from HK.  I also got the 1157 replacement bulbs from them, the ones with 24 LEDs.  I'm not too thrilled with those as they are not very bright.  But I really liked the Ba9S bulbs I got.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Koëstom on Mar 31, 2009, 04:45:00
Magnetize your steel oil drain plug so tiny metal bits get attracted to the bottom of the case. When you change your oil clean the bits off the drain plug with a rag.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MN_TX650 on Apr 03, 2009, 10:58:33
Joe mentioned I should post this here....although it is really a $25 mod.  I use Flexi hose to cover all of my electrical lines to spruce them up a bit.  You can also cover old faded out cables and hoses with the stuff.  Cut to fit, singe the ends (to keep it from fraying), then flex it over the bundle of stuff you wish to cover, and heat shrink either end to hold it in place!  It comes in different colors, but I prefer the black.  Seems to work on just about any bike, and I used to work on a lot of them doing custom wiring.  Give it a shot, you won't be disappointed!

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?Category_ID=64&manufacturer_ID=167&product_ID=14215&sblid_name=Baron_Custom_Accessories_Flexi_Wire_and_Hose_Cover___Black&model_id=0 (http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?Category_ID=64&manufacturer_ID=167&product_ID=14215&sblid_name=Baron_Custom_Accessories_Flexi_Wire_and_Hose_Cover___Black&model_id=0)

(http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/image_14215.jpg)

Here is a shot of my 35 year old switch boxes polished and the wiring covered with black flexi hose

(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d40/MinnTrapper/CafeRacer/Manx/SwitchBoxes001.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tamickler on Apr 03, 2009, 21:31:59
Taping rims to paint spokes and hubs:

This isn't really a mod, but I think it makes taping up your rims a little bit easier.  Instead of going around each spoke nipple with several pieces of tape, get some reinforcement labels for hole-punched papers.
(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tamickler/IMG_3692.jpg)
Cut the label towards its center:
(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tamickler/IMG_3696.jpg)
Slip the label over your spoke and slide it down around the nip:
(http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt88/tamickler/IMG_3700.jpg)
Now you have a little more area to work with, allowing the process of taping to go a bit faster.  It's just a bit more precise.

(Note: This is only helpful if you're painting the spokes and nipples of a trued wheel)

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: autoguy on Apr 07, 2009, 01:21:17
cheap battery acid overflow tank

basically i took a small plastic vitamin bottle and put some battery acid in it that i had left over from filling my battery and the acid did not melt thru it

so i drilled a hole in the top/cap of the bottle a bit smaller than the size of the battery acid overflow hose and but that in the cap, than i drilled two small vent holes toward the top of the bottle and than i screwed the cap onto the bottle and than zip tie the bottle somewhere in the bike and there you go :D

i found some overflow tanks for less than $10 but i am cheap :D and had vitamin bottles free so total cost free :D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Apr 07, 2009, 11:38:27
(cleaned up the pics from the spoke taping a bit)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/9ko0wl.jpg)

(http://i42.tinypic.com/148ge9l.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: brewtown16 on Apr 07, 2009, 17:45:29
Magnetize your steel oil drain plug so tiny metal bits get attracted to the bottom of the case. When you change your oil clean the bits off the drain plug with a rag.

how do you go about doing that?!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Apr 07, 2009, 17:50:15
quick and kinda effective: rub it against a large magnet like on a woofer for a few minutes.

not as quick but more effective: drive out the inside large enough to press fit a rare earth magnet...lots of places to order online
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: mrkil on Apr 07, 2009, 17:52:28
quick and kinda effective: rub it against a large magnet like on a woofer for a few minutes.

not as quick but more effective: drive out the inside large enough to press fit a rare earth magnet...lots of places to order online

even easier if you buy a small rare earth magnet and slap it on the head of your drain plug bolt.

they are more than strong enough to stay on while riding
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Apr 07, 2009, 17:58:27
yeah probably but having raced in the past...I dunna want anythin that could even *possibly* come loose........
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Apr 07, 2009, 22:47:06
Or you could stick the magnet on the outside of the bolt and cover it with JBWeld or just a dab of high temp RTV silicon.  I mean it's on the bottom of your engine, who's gonna see it but you when you drain the sump.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Koëstom on Apr 07, 2009, 23:29:12
how do you go about doing that?!

I bought some small flat round magnets today. I'm gonna drill a hole of the same size diameter into the top of my plug and epoxy two of them in while stick out about 1/16" to get a little more suface area into the oil.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Koëstom on Apr 07, 2009, 23:33:25
there are many other sellers on ebay.  They ship from HK so they take a week or two.  I actually got mine surprisingly fast from HK.

My bulbs came in today, look great, and only took seven days to get to me... no longer than any other average seller on ebay. I can't wait to get them installed.

Thanks for that LED tip!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Apr 07, 2009, 23:45:54
I think you can buy a magnetic plug pretty inexpensively, like under $20. I have not researched this but thats what what I have heard of in the past. Its a good idea either way.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Apr 08, 2009, 10:47:42
My bulbs came in today, look great, and only took seven days to get to me... no longer than any other average seller on ebay. I can't wait to get them installed.

Thanks for that LED tip!

Cool.  I hope they work as well for you as they did for me.  Just be gentle as they can break.  I destroyed one trying to get it into the rubber thing for the highbeam indicator.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dixiedevil on May 04, 2009, 21:46:46
You can buy replacement plugs that are already magnetized or just get a rare earth magnet at radio shack for $2 that and some glue, you will never get it off. My ktm is already magnetized and it picks shit up all the time , cant amagine whats would be floating around in a bike with out one
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: krukster86 on May 06, 2009, 08:21:32
Not sure if this was posted already, and it kinda goes over the $50 mark (if you choose to buy a new condenser as well). Here is a lil tip on how to replace those shibby old ignition coils on your bike that I found on the HondaTwins forum. I did it on the CB360 and it works pretty damn well...

Aftermarket Coils - Honda CB450

On my latest project, a CB450, it was apparent the coils I had around were less than desirable.
I had three pairs, all were well funkified. I had my doubt they had much life left in them.
New coils are a good investment on any old bike, unless you’re doing a persnickety restoration and need to be original.
Something similar could be done for 350's and other 180-degree twins as well.
For the 360-degree twins (like 175/200), aftermarket coils are available as a bolt-up, using 1/2 of a 4-cylinder coil setup.

(http://home.comcast.net/~tbpmusic6/coil1.jpg)

Not wanting any trouble in the ignition, I bought a pair of Yamaha XS650 Replacement units from http://www.mikesxs.com/
$24 each, quick and cheap shipping.
They only had the yellow wires in stock.

(http://home.comcast.net/~tbpmusic6/P1010030x.jpg)

I had to fabricate a couple of little plates to fasten them to, so I could use the stock coil mount, which is the best location. The plates are sort of notched to move the coils as far in towards each other as I could. Space on the sides is limited when the fuel tank is mounted.
You have to tweak the positioning with spacers. Note the use of stacks of washers as spacers - didn’t have any spacers, but I did have a big ol’ sack-o-washers (stainless yet). Someday I might cut some proper spacers.


No place for the condensor , I just drilled a hole in the frame nearby and mounted it there.

I ran a series of 10-gauge ground wires from the battery itself to all the ignition components. So there won’t be any troubles with grounding.

Had to make up a couple of bullet connector “doublers” to accommodate the coil/point/condensor wiring.

Coil wiring was simple - I ran both brown coil wires to the black/white wires from the harness, then used the “doublers” to connect each orange coil wire to either the yellow or blue ignition wires.

All in all, it wasn’t too bad. About $60 for brand new coils, replaceable wires, and plug caps. All I used was a drill, hacksaw, and grinder.
I now have spark that will knock you on your butt, and it’s one less thing I’ll have to worry about on a really old bike.

Seems to me you could do pretty much the same thing on a 350, it’s built pretty much the same.

And I already did it on a CB200 - CB200 is a 360 degree engine (like a 175), only one point, so a single coil with two plug wires. For that one I bought(on EBay) half of a Honda four replacement coil set - it bolted right up, no modifications required.

(http://home.comcast.net/~tbpmusic6/P1010006x.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: magnang on May 09, 2009, 11:30:40
Just installed clubman bars and managed the run the wires inside.  I discovered this trick which made it relatively easy:

1) Use electrical tape and tape the wires and connectors together.  Make sure there are no connectors sticking out to get caught, they will get torn up when they get to the bend.

2) Tie a loop at the end of a piece of string and push it inside the bar, from the center of the bar to the bend

3) Get a coathanger, bend a hook in it, and fish out the wire by the loop, from the end of the bar.

4) Tie the string around the bundle tightly, using a square knot.  Tape up the wire and knot to the bundle so it doesn't slip.

5) Put a bit of vasoline on the wire bundle to lube it up.

6) Push the wire in with one hand as you pull on the string with the other.  It's still a douchebag, but it will come through eventually
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on May 11, 2009, 18:32:32
i have updated the first post with the links to the new mods. keep em coming!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on May 11, 2009, 21:46:00
Here's a freebee add-on to Magnang's: Profile those holes!

Once you get holes drilled into the bars, take some time with a 3/16"dia. round file and file all the sharp edges off your work.
I don't know how many bikes have showed up here with odd electrical issues that come from the internal wires getting ripped up on a sharp edge. It doesn't take long, will save you lots of headaches and shows craftsmanship.
I'm sure the vast majority of you already do this but for those who may be just now considering switching bars...keep it in mind.




Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jun 03, 2009, 13:56:09
another good trick that i use is some silicone glue in them after the wires are fed through... that will keep the wires from jiggling around
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jun 04, 2009, 12:50:35
Painting lower legs with epoxy paint...

-First remove tires and caliper(s)...
-i then sand down with 220 grit sand paper... you need to get through the clear coat that is on most lowers (aircraft stripper will do that as well) then get a good profile on it with 400 grit....
-after you have a nice profile, use 1 light coat and give it 5 min to tack up... then hit another coat, keep this process up to give it as many light coats as you can within a 1/2 hour... AFTER A 1/2 (30 MIN) you have to stop! or else the paint will bubble, orange peel, and never give you the strength and quality you want... this is no JOKE
- wait 24 hrs to handle the item
- wait a MIN of 1 week (7 days) for any re coat or sanding and re coat

paint used: rustoleum appliance epoxy
(http://images.orgill.com/200x200/6967079.jpg)
*clear coat is NOT needed nor is a primer...

sanded down
(http://i34.tinypic.com/nzhhzl.jpg)

paint on
(http://i36.tinypic.com/smzn83.jpg)

unwrapped
(http://i36.tinypic.com/2rzt6ap.jpg)

close up
(http://i36.tinypic.com/2cz91k5.jpg)

other legs done in it
(http://i33.tinypic.com/125p6di.jpg)

pics of the legs 3 years later w/o re coat and 30k miles (you will notice that they are almost a SPOT ON MATCH to wet black powder coat)
(http://i36.tinypic.com/bi3390.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jun 04, 2009, 14:36:34
cheap motorcycle Lift
found this online... thanks to the guy that posted this sucker!

http://www.jumpcut.com/view/?id=6474727A63D411DD8E69000423CF385C

Original site for the how to:
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm

(http://www.jumpcut.com/media/dyn/9a/4615/8b9f3c54d5e4aaa2b3045435cf/view.jpg)

(http://www.jumpcut.com/media/dyn/2c/9440/6e1c80ae91175551d33ecfb846/view.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Disliked23 on Jun 04, 2009, 15:03:58
So simple it pisses me off that I never thought of it....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Useful Idiot on Jun 05, 2009, 14:41:55
I'm painting the frame on my CL project with epoxy paint tonight. I'll post some pics up tomorrow.



Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Zonda on Jun 05, 2009, 23:57:15
So you lads are building 30yr+ bikes,,and some have drum brakes.Original linings,,,da will give you duh biggest pucker ever on the street :o off to the jobber to get replacements,,,not ;D send them outs to a brake and clutch shop and have then relined with woven fork lift lining,,riveted and glued!! those forking things(and lift too) are on the brakes steady in a wearhouse,,,and not fade!!  dids the front for under $50...

OK just read this ;D just had to laugh bloody brilliant mod and one i never thought of. Forklift woven drum linings on the CB sound great and no fade, have to love that. What do they wear like? have you done this mod your self?

Rod from OZ 8)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jun 08, 2009, 15:01:46
V-V-V-Vvviiiibrations!!!!!

Are your hands going numb after a few otherwise pleasurable miles on your hack of choice?
There are a few things you can do to tame the vibrations that you're more than likely dealing with right now.

Bars:
You've decided to stick with some form of handlebars, either because of necessity (clip-ons can be spendy) or taste...but your digits go all tingly after a couple dashes though your favorite canyon. If your bars are one piece ie; drag bars, superbike bars and even apes, you have a couple areas to pay attention to.
1) Check your mounts. If you have rubber isolated risers, check those donuts and replace worn or damaged parts as needed.
2) Weights. Seems simple, but the addition of bar end weights from just about any modern bike will help the situation by changing the assemblies resonant frequency (what RPM it's going to shake the worst at).
3) Fill. Try filling your hollow bars with something like birdshot or copper BBs. This will also go miles toward moving the worst of the vibrations out of the bandwidth or normal use, meaning that perhaps they still shake at idle and above 9krpm but from off idle up to that point they will be much smoother on the old paws. I've known some crafty guys who've gone so far as to fill their bars with BBs then go back and backfill the entire bar/BB combo with silicone caulk. I didn't ride that bike but I've heard that it's very nice on the hands.
4) Grips. Looks at most old school (as they pertain to us) race or cafe bikes and you're likely to see similarly old school puffy grips. Adding a bit of cush at the grip is a good way to ease the buzz......and they look cool. You now have a number of color choices including some neat two tones I've seen lately.

I've done all the above (except the caulk) on several of my bikes that are equipped with bars and they work well.

Clip-ons

The same approach can be taken with your clip-ons though probably not to the extent above. However, it will still help.
In the case of these Tomaselli adjustables, there's not much room for fill but one can still manage a nice chubby bar end weight and puffy grips.










Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Useful Idiot on Jun 08, 2009, 15:08:32
JRK, I put your epoxy paint to the test last night and it turned out great. Shot my CL450 frame and swing arm. I had a couple small spots bubble on me, but it looks like it was the metal below and not the paint.

Came home for lunch to check it out. It's got a nice, thick gloss finish on it.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: diesel450 on Jun 15, 2009, 23:20:43
Here is a super easy and environmentally safe way to clean a rusty tank. Now I said it was environmentally safe. that doesn't mean there isn't some danger here so use common sense and do this outside.

Total cost if you have to buy a manual charger is about $40-$50 (i got mine at sears for $30)

Hey,

I have a really easy, Cheap and effective method of cleaning a tank and when your done you can pour it out on the ground and not get arrested!

Another one off the internet, I've tried it and it works!

Electrolosys of water

Basically, you fill your tank with white vinegar and water (maybe a little salt) you add a steel rod to the tank hook it up to a MANUAL battery charger and you essentially elctroplate your steel rod with the rust in your tank.

The Steel rod must be taped so that bare metal doesn't touch the tank anywhere I used a piece of rebar taped where needed with electrical tape. I would imagine stainless would work even better. You fill the tank with a water/vinegar solution (60/40 should do) then hook up a MANUAL battery charger at somewhere between 6 and 12 amps, negative to the steel rod and positive to the tank( iused the tank mount bracket). let that cook for a while, an hour to two plus depending on how bad your tank is and your amperage, It is best to do it a slower (less amperage pace) DO THIS OUTSIDE OR IN A WELL VENTILLATED AREA as this process creates a toxic gas. You will see it frothing and bubbling etc. after a while dump out the solution (its just vinegar and salt) and check it. repeat as needed. If your tank is deeply pitted you probably won't get rid of all the rust but you probably will make the tank usefull again.

I have done this several times and have been amazed at the results!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Jun 16, 2009, 23:09:11
i was standing at the bench grinder today running the sprocket nuts and disc bolts throught the wire wheel getting the rust off in prep for reassembly and thought why am i doing this they're just gonna rust again.  The I looked up and saw my gun cleaning kit and flashed on gun bluing, it coats and seal gun barrels why not nuts and bolts????  So i tried it and they came out great.  I don't know how long they will last on a bike but anything is better than the usual flash rust we get here in Florida or the expense of stainless hardware.  I tried to take some pics but my cheapo camera wouldn't focus that close, but try it and see for yourself.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcmspikes on Jun 16, 2009, 23:11:15
i was standing at the bench grinder today running the sprocket nuts and disc bolts throught the wire wheel getting the rust off in prep for reassembly and thought why am i doing this they're just gonna rust again.  The I looked up and saw my gun cleaning kit and flashed on gun bluing, it coats and seal gun barrels why not nuts and bolts????  So i tried it and they came out great.  I don't know how long they will last on a bike but anything is better than the usual flash rust we get here in Florida or the expense of stainless hardware.  I tried to take some pics but my cheapo camera wouldn't focus that close, but try it and see for yourself.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.

ha,  i thought about this the other day.   i just put my nipples in laquer.  uhh, i mean.  well yeah i dipped them in laquer.  figure it will keep em sealed for a bit.  ill post photos when i get near a computer and a camera at the same time
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CaTacl1sm on Jun 17, 2009, 17:10:47
ha,  i thought about this the other day.   i just put my nipples in laquer.  uhh, i mean.  well yeah i dipped them in laquer.  figure it will keep em sealed for a bit.  ill post photos when i get near a computer and a camera at the same time

I had to double-take while reading this post  :P
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcmspikes on Jun 17, 2009, 22:51:28
from my spokes.   spoke nipples come on.  what are you guys thinking about all day?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Jun 17, 2009, 23:49:58
And I thought I was gonna have trouble when I said "sprocket nuts".

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: loudest143 on Jun 18, 2009, 00:12:45
huh huh.... They said nuts and nipples... huh huh....  ;D  I heart big nipples.

loudest143
*that boy's not right.
Title: free 'bar end' mirrors
Post by: overdraft on Jul 05, 2009, 21:12:18
Don't know if this makes the grade or not, so if it's too lame the moderator can delete and it won't offend me!

You don't want those crazy big stock mirrors ruining the lines of your bike, but you haven't got your bar end mirrors yet... just take off your stockers, swap sides and screw them on from underneath. cleans up the look above the handlebars, retains the mirrors, and says 'hey, i'm too cool for stock'. works on my 3fiddy and should work with most others too. price? free!

(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/overdraftracing/1f0b6c8f.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/overdraftracing/e7827e7e.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/overdraftracing/47de6d22.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jul 07, 2009, 10:20:12
that work s great! you can also bend them up tighter or cut them down and re thread them as well
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jul 07, 2009, 21:56:38
Cool idea, they clear the tank ok at full lock? That'd be a rude surprise!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: overdraft on Jul 07, 2009, 22:45:32
Cool idea, they clear the tank ok at full lock? That'd be a rude surprise!
on the 3fiddy they do... takes some fiddiling. plus if you wanted to bend them a bit you could get more clearance if you were having interference problems with a different bike.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Jul 08, 2009, 22:29:16
I wanted a low profile indicator light setup on this project and came up with this. It was real cheap and I think looks pretty cool too.

It takes care of the left and right turn signal indicators, neutral light, and high beam indicator. Obviously you could do as many lights as you wanted.

Here’s what I used for materials and their costs:

3’ x ¾” aluminum flat bar = $6.00
3’ x ½” OD aluminum tubing = $7.00
4 LED lights from radioshack = $1.99 each
Finishing washers for the top of the LEDs= $1.99
Stainless allen head bolts and nuts= next to nothing.

(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/herm1050/106_6792.jpg)

The LED lights are about ¾ long so I simply cut the tubing about an inch long and the flat bar is about 4" long.
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/herm1050/106_6754.jpg)

Then it was just a bit sanding, polishing, drilling and assembly.
The LEDs are threaded and the nuts they come with are just the right size to fit perfectly inside the tubes, so with the finishing washers on top bar, the nuts allow for the lights to be tightened down snug. Then the top bar and lower bar hold all the tubes together real tight.
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/herm1050/106_6762-2.jpg)

I made a mount for the clocks that bolts underneath into the old handlebar holes and used that to mount the light bar as well.
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/herm1050/106_6770.jpg)

It fits in between the top tree and clocks real nice and is pretty discrete and clean.
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/herm1050/106_6774.jpg)


Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jul 09, 2009, 12:47:22
NOW THAT IS AWESOME!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jul 09, 2009, 13:46:36
THAT is cool as hell!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Skyeye on Jul 09, 2009, 14:50:41
You sir, are a genius!  That is one of the coolest idiot light consoles I've ever seen. 

Do you mind if I copy it?

Scott
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: diesel450 on Jul 09, 2009, 14:58:27
Yeah, I'll be using that one too. nice. If you didn't know what it was, you wouldn't know what it was, and that is a good thing.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: loudest143 on Jul 09, 2009, 15:14:17
I'm sure this took you some time to get it all dialed in right.  Your hard work paid off, it's really pretty awesome.  Simple, fuctional, and an extremely creative use of 'off the rack' stock and parts.  NICE JOB I really like this.

loudest143
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Jul 09, 2009, 16:35:57
Copy away guys!

It did take some time but wasn't too bad. It was mostly spent on getting each tube to the exact mm and perfectly square cuts. Even with a bandsaw and bench sander, some were off a hair and would keep from tightening down all the way. Last thing i wanted was rattling aluminum. But eventually I got them to sit just right!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: TDC on Jul 09, 2009, 20:25:26
Here is a neat way of keeping your zip ties from moving around on you and it gives them a neat apperance.

http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid1431564069?bclid=1432781645&bctid=1485316005

I got this from the EAA web site here:

http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html?videoId=19802261001

You will even find the zip tie stand off that JRK5892 posted earlier.  Granted they are using it for fuel line.  Even though EAA is for aircraft builders, a lot of the videos could be helpful for a bike builder.

Hope this helps.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Jul 09, 2009, 22:33:55
Here is a neat way of keeping your zip ties from moving around on you and it gives them a neat apperance.


Pretty good idea! I might try that.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: gribbs on Jul 09, 2009, 23:22:08
Ya thats rad!  So you just cut the wires from the old dash and join them to these wires?  is it straight forward, like can you just eyeball each wire and use the wire colors to easily tell which to join?   That seems like the hardest part really.....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Useful Idiot on Jul 10, 2009, 14:39:00
Nice work Herm.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Jul 10, 2009, 15:13:08
Ya thats rad!  So you just cut the wires from the old dash and join them to these wires?  is it straight forward, like can you just eyeball each wire and use the wire colors to easily tell which to join?   That seems like the hardest part really.....

Yeah, i took the stock setup and cut those wires then soldered them to the LED leads, then a bit of shrink tubing made it all look good! Just identify the stock power wires and solder to the red leads on the LED's.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: timdhawk on Jul 14, 2009, 00:05:08
Yeah, i took the stock setup and cut those wires then soldered them to the LED leads, then a bit of shrink tubing made it all look good! Just identify the stock power wires and solder to the red leads on the LED's.

Don't LED's require less power to run than standard bulbs?  me thinks you need some resistors inline.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jul 14, 2009, 13:09:56
Those cast-in, pre-packaged LED indicators usually have them built in since they are specifically FOR replacing incandescent indicator bulbs. 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Jul 14, 2009, 13:23:00
Those cast-in, pre-packaged LED indicators usually have them built in since they are specifically FOR replacing incandescent indicator bulbs. 

That is absoluetly correct. these have them built in whcih is why they're a bit longer.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: timdhawk on Jul 14, 2009, 13:39:07
That is absoluetly correct. these have them built in whcih is why they're a bit longer.

Hummm, learn something new every day! Cool...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jul 14, 2009, 13:53:18
they also make them VERY small with built in resisters... i used those when i made a low rider dash fit on my st bob so i could run a tach and shift light
(http://i34.tinypic.com/24w4u8i.jpg)

(http://i37.tinypic.com/xbz254.jpg)

(http://i33.tinypic.com/ofn6m9.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Jul 14, 2009, 14:01:20
Really! I looked for something shorter but couldn't find any. How bright are they Joe? I'm thinking of making my own "discreet" turn signals using something small like that. They'd be almost hidden until I turn them on is what i was thinking...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jul 14, 2009, 14:03:15
these are by NO mean turn sigs but are great to let you know as indicators... they are SUPER small about the size of a eraser head
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jul 14, 2009, 15:11:06
For turnsignals, you want something 2-3 watts in an LED:
http://www.theledlight.com/LuxeonLEDs.html

since you want small and discrete, you make up for the small size by making them retina searingly bright.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Jul 14, 2009, 15:24:04
damn! now that's the ticket!!! it's exactly what I was looking for. amazing how bright something so small can be! thanks dude.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: goodfornothing on Jul 15, 2009, 03:57:57
Edited: Not a very good idea.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: sxecafe on Jul 15, 2009, 12:08:04


It fits in between the top tree and clocks real nice and is pretty discrete and clean.
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk158/herm1050/106_6774.jpg)



[/quote]

This shit is brilliant!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jul 15, 2009, 13:18:31
Not sure if this qualifies as a $50 mod, but more of an $8 fix. This was posted in my build thread.

Since I've grown concerned over a clogged crossover tube on my fuel tank, I decided it was time to fix it. Herm suggested that I heat the tube, bend it straight up/down, clear the clog with a drill and bend it back. Herm is a serious genius and I'm sure many of you would agree with me on that. However, this didn't really work for me. I used a micro butane torch, which didn't really heat up the tube, but instead, it ruined a bit of my paint job near the petcock (I'm an idiot). So I went with my original plan: I cut the tube out, cleared the clog, and JB welded a brass barbed nipple fitting over it. The whole fix cost no more than $8, all bought from HD! Some may think it looks silly but me likey!

Ghetto sleezy.

I hope this holds up because the last thing I'd want is that jb breaking and dumping fuel on the engine and me. It would be in your best interest to take that stuff off and have a new tube welded in. It'll cost you right around what you paid for the JB and that brass fitting and will be much safer.

Of note: If you have a tube like that that's clogged, there's an easy fix. I use a 6" long piece of 16g piano wire (local hardware store) in a hand drill. It flexes to make the curve and will break up your clog. If you need, add a couple little 'Z' bends to really clean the tube out. That's it.....easy as pie and not a potential deathtrap.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: VonYinzer on Jul 15, 2009, 13:30:41
not so much a mod but cool, helpful, and FREE. www.freepdfmanual.com just got a free service manual for my 350. tons of bikes, and cars available.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Jul 15, 2009, 20:38:22
damn! there goes my genius status.  :)

Kudos to you and Swag, excellent idea with the flexible wire and cables.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: chris73cb175 on Jul 15, 2009, 22:04:02
I got tired of looking at the big black plastic switches on the Yamaha XS650, Man what ugly crap things they are!!  so I replaced them with switches from a Brit Bike shop.  For about 20 bucks I got a reproduction switch called a TriCon.  It has the horn button, a high/low dipper, and a red kill button that I used for a starter switch.  It all fit on the left side between the grip and the lever perch, and they really cleaned up the bars.  I also dumped the right side that had the on/off, and starter button, now I just run a key switch that I mounted under the tank.  After getting rid of those chunks of crap and the stock instruments the head stock area really opened up and looks a lot better. I also used a Amal style thottle tube to replace the Yamaha tube.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.


http://sterlingmotorworks.com/inc/sdetail/505 (http://sterlingmotorworks.com/inc/sdetail/505)
is this the one?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Jul 16, 2009, 12:01:42
Yeah, that's the one, even from the place I got it.  Worked like a charm and really helped the looks.  I wired the red kill button to use as the starter button, on the '72 XS650 all the button does is ground the starter to complete the curcuit.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: chris73cb175 on Jul 17, 2009, 13:13:39
I did something similar on my kz650 build.  I removed the cluster completely, bought 2.25" mini gauges from www.mikesxs.com, flipped my headlight bucket upside down so it had room inside for the key switch, then I installed a single LED for the oil light (being the only idiot light I cared about keeping from the stock cluster).  Here's a couple pics of the process and complete set up.  Total cost....$0!!!!
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/anarki650/headlightbucket.jpg)
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/anarki650/gauges2.jpg)
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/anarki650/gauges.jpg)


did you have to get a different ignition? i'm going to mess with my bucket since it has a little crack on it. i'm just trying to get clean and simple look no clutter
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jul 17, 2009, 13:23:00
Nice work man!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: chris73cb175 on Jul 17, 2009, 13:46:32
well, i finally have something worthy of sharing, but i dont know if anyone else has brought it up. Plasti-dip, its rubberized tool dip that costs about 7 bucks a 14 ounce can, and comes in a crap ton of colors. ill list off the applications. i took my levers and chopped the ball ends on the front brake and clutch, then dipped them a few times in the graphite grey for a real racy look, and it slips when you want it to, and grips when it needs to! ive also used these for when making custom wire looms, i literally dip the whole wire grouping in a 1" cookie sheet, then keep turning it like a rotisserie and hit it with a blowdryer. you can also use this to repair cracked clutch or throttle cables. when i swapped out my muffs on the 360 i lost the rubber stops for the bottom of the can where the kickstand hits. i taped off a square on the can, then used a paintbrush, and built it up. ive also used it on my seat mounts, because i am running 4 steel tabs off the top of the frame to where the fiberglass mounts. all i did was paint it on the top and it really makes the diffrence! they have many diffrent kinds from course grit to smooth and shiny. it also helps if you have areas that rub together, and tend to become rusty. clean up the area, dip or paint! this stuff is also semi sand-able, so go nuts!

i'm interested in this because my housing is cracked on the throttle cables and what not. i was going to do the chrome jrk style but would like to see how this looks did you just wrap the 1'' cook sheet around the cable and painted it with that plasti-dip
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: chris73cb175 on Jul 17, 2009, 14:17:15
The spring doent need to compress much for the retainer to come off or on.  That is a nice tool though just wouldnt be too usefull for me to keep laying around though, and it does look easy to make.   The clamps are all plastic an have a nice thin front lip which hold okay.

using those clamps is a great idea. does this work with the casing aswell.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jul 28, 2009, 11:21:41
main page has been updated with $50 mods.... keep them coming!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: chris73cb175 on Aug 04, 2009, 12:42:54

http://sterlingmotorworks.com/inc/sdetail/505 (http://sterlingmotorworks.com/inc/sdetail/505)
is this the one?

any idea on if this will work for honda cb 175. i'm assuming it is universal.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcwp on Aug 05, 2009, 00:42:56
I got tired of looking at the big black plastic switches on the Yamaha XS650, Man what ugly crap things they are!!  so I replaced them with switches from a Brit Bike shop.  For about 20 bucks I got a reproduction switch called a TriCon.  It has the horn button, a high/low dipper, and a red kill button that I used for a starter switch.  It all fit on the left side between the grip and the lever perch, and they really cleaned up the bars.  I also dumped the right side that had the on/off, and starter button, now I just run a key switch that I mounted under the tank.  After getting rid of those chunks of crap and the stock instruments the head stock area really opened up and looks a lot better. I also used a Amal style thottle tube to replace the Yamaha tube.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.

This sounds sweet, but what are you doing for turn signals?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Aug 05, 2009, 09:31:40
any idea on if this will work for honda cb 175. i'm assuming it is universal.

Chris,

Yes, It's a universal switch.  All I did was match up the wires from the switch to the wires coming from the harness using a wiring diagram for the XS650.  When you have the switch in your hand it's easy to see which color wire goes to which part of the switch.  I then cut off the multi connector from the stock switch leaving about 4"-5" of wire still connected to the stock multi connector, then just soldered and shrink wrapped the new wires to the correct color old wires and plugged the connector back up to the harness inside the headlight shell.  This worked fine on the XS, I'm not sure about a CB because the horn and kill button just ground to the handlebars to complete the curcuit.  Since the bars on the XS are rubber mounted I had to add a small ground wire to the stem of the handlebar mounting perches.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Aug 05, 2009, 09:47:42
This sounds sweet, but what are you doing for turn signals?

DCWP,

If you look toward the bottom of the sterlingmotorworks.com web page for switches you'll see a 3 position turn signal switch.  This is the one I used on the SR500, the XS650 is a 72 so it isn't required to have turn signals here in Fl.  On the SR I just mounted the turn signal switch on the opposite side of the clutch perch from the DuCon, the SR doesn't have an e-start so a DuCon was all I needed.  The switch is quite small, about the size of a quarter, and I'm running drag bars so there's plenty of room.  I have to move my hand off the grip to operate the switch so I just complete my turn before I slide my hand over to turn off the signals.  I'll post a pic later today of my setup.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Terry on Aug 05, 2009, 11:13:05
Here are the pics of the switches on the SR500.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcwp on Aug 05, 2009, 12:04:01
Thanks Terry, that looks great!  I'm going to need new switches anyway and this looks like a nice way to do it.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: chris73cb175 on Aug 06, 2009, 12:21:57
terry,

thanks for the tip. yeah bars look much cleaner than it would with the bulky stock stuff. thanks for the pictures i'll be doing a set up like this soon. i got rid of the horn and i'll ask my buddy to figure something with wiring for the kill switch. he is down for the cause with electrical. keep this thread going. its my bible hahaha
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: goodfornothing on Aug 18, 2009, 06:12:24
Homemade Spring Compressor

(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/imxaxputo/My%20Honda%20cb450/IMG_4529.jpg)

I was tired of looking for a place to compress my springs back onto the shocks. I found a place who'd do it for $20, but I thought to myself, "Heck, I can probably make something less than $20 that I can use over and over again." So I made this spring compressor and only spent $12. It is VERY VERY easy to make.

Here are the materials you need:
- 7 in. of 2x4
- 9 in. of 1/8th in. x 2 in. steel flat bar. (You can use 3/16ths thickness if you wish)
- Two (at least) 1.5 feet of 3/8th dia threaded Rod. I got two 2 ft rods for about $3 for both.
- Six 3/8th in. Nuts
- Six 3/8th in. Washers

I already had some 2x4 wood laying around along with the washers, so all I needed were the other stuff.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/imxaxputo/My%20Honda%20cb450/Materials.jpg)


Cut a 7 in. section out of the 2x4. Next you need to put a notch in the middle of the 2x4 where the spring will sit. I used a mallet and a flathead screw driver to chip away at the wood. Then you need to measure how wide you want the rods to sit from the middle. Just make sure it's big enough to fit the shock in. Cut a 9 in. section of the 1/8th in. x 2 in. steel flat bar and measure accordingly where the holes should be. Make sure you drill 3/8th holes in the wood STRAIGHT!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/imxaxputo/My%20Honda%20cb450/IMG_4518.jpg)


Use a dremel to cut a wide enough slit in the middle for the shock. File and sand the edges once you're done cutting.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/imxaxputo/My%20Honda%20cb450/IMG_4521.jpg)


Next, insert the threaded rod in both holes and secure it to the 2x4 with washers and nuts.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/imxaxputo/My%20Honda%20cb450/IMG_4519.jpg)

(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/imxaxputo/My%20Honda%20cb450/IMG_4520.jpg)

NOTE: EXCUSE MY UGLY SPRINGS! Now, put the flat bar on the rods and put a washer and nut on each rod. I put duct tape to further protect the springs, even though they're banged up as hell.  Compress the spring by tightening each nut. After that, it's pretty straight forward. When using this, the 1/8th flat bar bent when I was compressing the second springs. REMEMBER, this compressor works best when you can get the flat bar in between coil/loop 3 and 4 on the spring. Just place the bar closest to the top of the spring and it shouldn't require much to get the seats in. You also don't need to clamp it upright. You can lay it on the floor and compress the springs.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/imxaxputo/My%20Honda%20cb450/IMG_4524.jpg)

(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/imxaxputo/My%20Honda%20cb450/IMG_4526.jpg)


Done!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/imxaxputo/My%20Honda%20cb450/IMG_4533.jpg)

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Aug 18, 2009, 12:45:49
Great trick for springs - Thank you!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Aug 18, 2009, 21:59:59
Well done. Thanks man!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: chris73cb175 on Aug 19, 2009, 12:11:13
spring compressor is great haha looks like i'm getting a new tool when i get back home.  ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: goodfornothing on Aug 20, 2009, 12:12:23
Glad you like it! Thanks guys :)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Aug 20, 2009, 13:22:21
Here's a huge time/effort saver!

SEM has a product called 'Rust-Mort' that is really amazing at removing..well....rust.
SEM part number: 69508, It cost me $13.55 for a pint container.

In short, you want to knock off flakey rust and junk forst, then either brush or spray the stuff onto the rusted surface.
The bottle calls for three or four thin coats, after the final coat allow the piece to dry for 24 hours then rinse with water.
It kills the rust and converts it to a non-volatile that you can paint over(primer first).
I don't have any pics, but I use the stuff fairly regularly, especially in areas that are tough to get to or that have tight crevices that perhaps you can't get de-rusted any other way. If you have a tank that's got surface rust inside this is a spectacular treatment for that. Most recently I used it on a pair of stamped steel S90ss frames to clean the rus out of the inside.

It is 75% phosphoric acid so wear gloves and at minimum safety glasses when using. I use a full face grinding shield and a machinist's apron along with rubber gauntlets.

This chemical along with electrolytic rust removal plus the occasional sanding work should just about cover any rust removal you need....and for cheap!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boingk on Aug 24, 2009, 10:59:54
Big plus on the phosphoric acid trick, its a good rust converter. Big plus on rinsing afterwards as well, probably wouldn't hurt to agitate the surface with a brush while your rinse, either. I know because the headers on my car don't look like beautiful, sleek, black tentacles; try whitish/black mouldy spaghetti and you'd be getting close.

Damn.

 - boingk
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dixiedevil on Aug 27, 2009, 22:25:35
SO i have seen people trying to find ways to paint their frames, seats, tank, etc  I know some people dont have a air compressor thus not able to use a paint gun or have the means to powder coat  or even bake something as alarge as a frame. I have a Under $35 solution and you will learn somehting in the process instead of just doing one arm extensions...


supplies:

320grit sand paper (oreilys $2.36)
400grit sand paper (oreilys $2.36)
 * 600grit sand paper (oreilys $2.36) optional*
1 can - Rustoleum Flat Black  ( note: NOT PRIMER BLACK!) (walmart $4 something)
1 can - VHT or Rustoleum Crystal clear gloss coat ( i think they make a flat clear coat also so if you want gloss black get gloss clear coat, if you want flat get flat clear) ( $4 somehting at walmart) VHT is probably better since their paint is chemically resistant so no wories about oil spilt gas and pressure washers
1 can of paint stripper - (5 something walmart) DO NOT get the ORANGE paint stripper it takes for ever and doesnt really get this shit off with out some elbow grease or a wire brush
1 can - High build primer ($6 something at walmart) i prefer high build as it gives you some room to sand
1 pack of disposable gloves (not that you will get dirty but to keep your grimmy paws of your stuff $1  dollar store)
1 pack of rubber chemical resistant gloves ( $1 dolalr store)
1 bottle of degreaser soap ($1 dolalr store)

 a hose, bathtub, kiddy pool (something to provide water)


strip your frame, tank , use wire brush wahtever to remove paint ( i would wear some eye protection)
washe frame with the degreaser soap

sand your frame with 320grit sand paper(i didnt do this but you should)

apply the high build prime. I would coat it, let it dry for a min or so then coat it again. dont be affriand to waste the can on the frame any drips line will be sanded out later.
i would let it dry for at least an hr

I set up a hose and let it pour on the frame
wet sand with 400 ( you can go farther and got to 600 but not really needed for these bumpy old frames) by wet sand for those who dont know you soak the paper and your the water to reduce friction heat and it lightly sand the primer
the frame will begin to feel like wet glass. i close my eyes and run my hand over the surface feeling for any rough patches and thne sand them

once your down ith you sanding let the frame dry you can use a blow dryer and it will dry quite quickly, besure to use a soft towel and wipe of the surface to remove any dust

mist 1 or 2 coats of rustoleum flat back , make sure that you waste a bit of the paint at first to get rid of any cloggy chunky shit in the can. If you hapen to be painitng and it spits some junk out dont work, let it dry , scuff the spot with some 400grit and then recoat it


allow paint to dry i usueally wait about an hr, since you misted it on and its flat it should dry quickly

apply clear coat   2-3 coats   

there you have a nice glossy protected frame all for under $35

I used this technique on my tank, fiberglass seat( not the paint stripper), frame, wheels,etc .they look great when i get some time ill post some pics.

i would say you have enough to paint your tank and frame without spending any more money. Also alot of these things you should prbly already have.

As a side note i go this route as i get all of my aeresol paint products for 94 cents so it makes a little more since to me, but i know most dont  but its still a solid way to paint your ride


remember ZEN not frustration and empty wallets
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hanly2 on Aug 27, 2009, 22:52:38
You might want to be very careful with that hairdryer around the baby pool.  :o
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Sep 01, 2009, 11:04:27
came across this while surfing... LED headlight conversion... take a stock headlight and make it LED.  great trick for those of us on these old scoots with lame charging systems... THIS IS AWESOME!!!!

http://www.instructables.com/id/LED_Motorcycle_Headlight/
(http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FI5/LDY6/FOVXOVU2/FI5LDY6FOVXOVU2.MEDIUM.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dixiedevil on Sep 01, 2009, 14:56:08
supplies:

320grit sand paper (oreilys $2.36)
400grit sand paper (oreilys $2.36)
 * 600grit sand paper (oreilys $2.36) optional*
1 can - Rustoleum Flat Black  ( note: NOT PRIMER BLACK!) (walmart $4 something)
1 can - VHT or Rustoleum Crystal clear gloss coat ( i think they make a flat clear coat also so if you want gloss black get gloss clear coat, if you want flat get flat clear) ( $4 somehting at walmart) VHT is probably better since their paint is chemically resistant so no wories about oil spilt gas and pressure washers
1 can of paint stripper - (5 something walmart) DO NOT get the ORANGE paint stripper it takes for ever and doesnt really get this shit off with out some elbow grease or a wire brush
1 can - High build primer ($6 something at walmart) i prefer high build as it gives you some room to sand
1 pack of disposable gloves (not that you will get dirty but to keep your grimmy paws of your stuff $1  dollar store)
1 pack of rubber chemical resistant gloves ( $1 dolalr store)
1 bottle of degreaser soap ($1 dolalr store)

 a hose, bathtub, kiddy pool (something to provide water)



remember ZEN not frustration and empty wallets


UPDATE:

I   HIGHLY suggest using   VHT paint over the rustoleum paints. The prices are about the same maybe $1 more but 1 it is self primeing an secondly but most importantly it is Chemical Resistant !   pour gas on it, oil, degreaser, it wont remove the finish. THeir clear coat is absolutley awesome. Another great clearcoat in a can is Montana Clear Coat and its not to pricey but you have to order it off the net.

I painted my engine with the super high temp flat blach header paint and it looks awesome and i painted the frame witht eh gloss black roll bar paint. THey also have a black epoxy style- looks like the wet black that some one else posted but one again it is chemical resistant.


Remember on not use a gloss coat under  a clear coat unless otherwise specified on the directions. It wont stick and you will have to start over!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: goodfornothing on Sep 03, 2009, 04:21:56
came across this while surfing... LED headlight conversion... take a stock headlight and make it LED.  great trick for those of us on these old scoots with lame charging systems... THIS IS AWESOME!!!!

http://www.instructables.com/id/LED_Motorcycle_Headlight/
(http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FI5/LDY6/FOVXOVU2/FI5LDY6FOVXOVU2.MEDIUM.jpg)

I thought LED didn't have a high enough light output? They'd be bright, but I don't think it'd go to far.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: malloy on Sep 03, 2009, 22:23:43
not really a mod, but more a product endorsement. for the longest time I have been in search of a great metal polish. I've tried just about everything with ok results. I finally discovered AUTOSOL and I'm blown away by how good this stuff works. I've been doing all my aluminum and chrome bits over the past couple of days.  the pic below is from items on the front wheel assembly. (axle, washer, speedo drive and spacer.) these bits are 35yrs old and looked like total crap. oxidized, greasy, dirt, etc.  about 10 mins later I had a nice polished finish with nothing more than a terry cloth and the polish.  (damn I sound like an damn tv ad) anyway this is great stuff. I had to order it online. it's about 8$ a tube.  the pic is crappy and DOESN'T do this product justice.

(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/malloynx/autosolpics003.jpg)

i'll get some better pics up later on other things that I cleaned up.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: sebatron on Sep 03, 2009, 22:44:53
+1 on the autosol - i've used it extensively on chrome plated bumpers in the past.
has anyone tried using it on a part + buffing wheel? might try it out on my rims tomorrow...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: malloy on Sep 03, 2009, 22:52:33
hmm, dunno. I have a brand new buffing wheel in need to "break" in. 8)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: forcefanajd on Sep 03, 2009, 22:59:07
I've used the autsol, good stuff but i prefer colonel brassy, stuff is amazing and it's a 2 step process which gives you a deeper shine, if I think of it I'll post some before and after pics tomarrow.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Sep 04, 2009, 12:21:06
i never turn chrome on a buffing wheel with any compounds like that, it can "burn" chrome or even yellow it down and start to strip it... actually stuff i need poished that is chrome, i use a compound and the buffing wheel to go through it to get to the raw metal.  chrome is hand polish for me. or a micro bonnet on the wheels with ultra shine compound. 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Sep 08, 2009, 00:30:02
Not sure if this qualifies as a $50 mod, but more of an $8 fix. This was posted in my build thread.

Since I've grown concerned over a clogged crossover tube on my fuel tank, I decided it was time to fix it. Herm suggested that I heat the tube, bend it straight up/down, clear the clog with a drill and bend it back. Herm is a serious genius and I'm sure many of you would agree with me on that. However, this didn't really work for me. I used a micro butane torch, which didn't really heat up the tube, but instead, it ruined a bit of my paint job near the petcock (I'm an idiot). So I went with my original plan: I cut the tube out, cleared the clog, and JB welded a brass barbed nipple fitting over it. The whole fix cost no more than $8, all bought from HD! Some may think it looks silly but me likey!

Ghetto sleezy.


A far better way to fix this is use a piece of old clutch or brake cable inner and 'drill' out any rust.
 You're making a flexible wire brush that will fit inside crossover tube.
 If its too big to go around curved part, use throttle cable inner.
 No damage to paint

PJ

this worked quite well.  I always heard that por15 is quite a bit thinner than kreme, so I was surprised when I coated my tank and saw the crossovers were clogged.  I tried it first with a clutch cable, this wouldnt go around the bend in my cb350 tank, so I tried the throttle cable after reading this post and it worked pretty well.  It didnt open up the hole to the original size, but it should be plenty sufficient to balance the two sides.  Thanks for the tip pj!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Sep 08, 2009, 13:19:07
I thought LED didn't have a high enough light output? They'd be bright, but I don't think it'd go to far.

When it comes down to it, photons are photons....are photons. Doesn't matter the source as long as the amount (or volume/mass depending on which side of the debate you're on) is correct. There are some phenomenally strong LED clusters available now, I've got a 35w piece sitting on my desk here that put out more 'light' than the H4 on highbeam in my 850. Wanna fry some pavement, place one in a projector lens unit. Once it's at the proper focal point within the housing you'll be amazed.

I was skeptical too until my buddy showed me his D-cell maglite with one. It's amazing.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: goodfornothing on Sep 10, 2009, 04:01:28
When it comes down to it, photons are photons....are photons. Doesn't matter the source as long as the amount (or volume/mass depending on which side of the debate you're on) is correct. There are some pheniminally stong LED clusters available now, I've got a 35w piece sitting on my desk here that put out more 'light' than the H4 on highbeam in my 850. Wanna fry some pavement, place one in a projector lens unit. Once it's at the proper focal point within the housing you'll be amazed.

I was skeptical too until my buddy showed me his D-cell maglite with one. It's amazing.

Then I guess it all just comes down to the legality of having a LED headlight.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Sep 10, 2009, 04:51:39
hmm that led light thing gives me an interesting idea..  It started as an aftermarket thing for bimmers (cars), but eventually bmw actually adopted the styling putting "angel eyes" on cars from the factory.  They look like halos around the circumference of the light housing.  Im pretty sure when I get around to cafe'ing a bmw  Im going to give this a go as I think it would be a cool update.

some pics

(http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/attachments/aus-classifieds/25423d1102991079-wtd-angel-eyes-e46ci-03-04-dde008.jpg)

(http://www.angeleyesweb.co.uk/CCFL%20ANGEL%20EYES%20KITS.jpg)

(note, these are not cheap (probably a few hundred just for the angel eyes) so this is not a $50 mod!, just an idea that popped into my head after checking out jrk's led head light post.)


edit: actually after looking around it seems that you can get kits for pretty cheap, but I dont know the quality.  I might end up giving this a shot on my current build though..  Ill update if I do.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: sebatron on Sep 10, 2009, 06:42:58
i'd really torn bout the angel eyes. it's very modern, very uncafe, and yet... i think it could really work well on a clean (wrenchmonkees or chicara clean) bike in a light tone, maybe an off white bike with a blue pearl...

yeah i've thought about it a bit :P
but i'm the guy who insists on using no bulbs and as little plastic on a motorcycle. i think using the best materials and components shouldn't rely upon budget, size, or style of motorbike.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boomshakalaka on Sep 10, 2009, 07:34:00
i'd really torn bout the angel eyes. it's very modern, very uncafe, and yet... i think it could really work well on a clean (wrenchmonkees or chicara clean) bike in a light tone, maybe an off white bike with a blue pearl...

yeah i've thought about it a bit :P
but i'm the guy who insists on using no bulbs and as little plastic on a motorcycle. i think using the best materials and components shouldn't rely upon budget, size, or style of motorbike.

I think youre spot on about the light color, which is actually what I was planning on.  However I was also planning on painting my rims red and hubs black... so that might clash.. hmm..
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Sep 10, 2009, 12:22:35
i have installed them in MANY rockets! they look killer when sitting there.... in my other bikes that glow i have tapped LEDS in the headlights as well to make them pop... around here at night anything you can do to be seen.... I DO IT
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: primo on Sep 25, 2009, 22:12:17
hey guys and gals,

i've seen on this thread how the spokes and hubs were painted but what's the best way to prep our chrome rims to have the paint hold?  is that possible and safe to do prior to replacing the tires and balancing?  primer, base and clear, etc?  i'm gonna leave the hubs alone and i don't wanna spend $$$ for a powdercoat job if i can help it

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: primo on Sep 26, 2009, 16:09:44
right on.  which rotary wheel product or scruffing material would be close to 120 grit?  i don't wanna sit there with a 120 grit paper that rips every minute with blistered fingers!  would a wire wheel prep the chrome for etching primer?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Sep 30, 2009, 11:14:29
I have updated that main page so that it is current. I also added twisted spokes how to rattle can custom paint post.  I have to say CrazyPJ this is an AWESOME how to... i am doing a flush mount tail light on my harley with deca-pour, and this is a perfect solution to what i need to light it! thank you!!!!

LED brake light "how-to" -crazypj -
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=6496.345
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Oct 08, 2009, 01:25:15
I posted this in the 1-800-CAFE-HELP section, but I guess it quilifies as a $50 mod as well. So here it is.....

Home made baffles....

http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=11248.0
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: my94f2 on Oct 09, 2009, 16:00:53
hmm that led light thing gives me an interesting idea..  It started as an aftermarket thing for bimmers (cars), but eventually bmw actually adopted the styling putting "angel eyes" on cars from the factory.  They look like halos around the circumference of the light housing.  Im pretty sure when I get around to cafe'ing a bmw  Im going to give this a go as I think it would be a cool update.

some pics

(http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/attachments/aus-classifieds/25423d1102991079-wtd-angel-eyes-e46ci-03-04-dde008.jpg)

(http://www.angeleyesweb.co.uk/CCFL%20ANGEL%20EYES%20KITS.jpg)

(note, these are not cheap (probably a few hundred just for the angel eyes) so this is not a $50 mod!, just an idea that popped into my head after checking out jrk's led head light post.)


edit: actually after looking around it seems that you can get kits for pretty cheap, but I dont know the quality.  I might end up giving this a shot on my current build though..  Ill update if I do.

you can make angel eyes for less than $20. i used clear mini blind rod. make sure to use the solid kind. got the diameter and heated the rod up with a heat gun and wrapped around it. then took my dremel with a cut off wheel and put grooves in it so the light transfers. put an led in both ends and wired it up.
http://plaza.umin.ac.jp/~satoshi/mod152en.html (http://plaza.umin.ac.jp/~satoshi/mod152en.html)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Oct 10, 2009, 00:08:51
+1 on the home made angel eyes! WOW
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Blake on Oct 12, 2009, 12:37:22
$2 license plate sidemount:

http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=11246.0
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Oct 12, 2009, 13:06:23
I used that same angel bracket on my wifes liscense plate but i added a trailer stop/brake light to it that i bent some alum to hold... took no time at all and she has a custom side mount brake lite set up on her scoot... I LOVE THE HALO EYES MOD!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Oct 16, 2009, 12:46:30
Strong and light 'glass/CF parts without an autoclave.

There are a few kats in our community that may want ot whack me with a stick over this but really....most of this is for DIY guys anyway...

Everyone is looking for a nice seat, headlight cowl, etc etc etc.....made of fiber glass or CF.
It's pretty easy (if messy) to do it yourself, but generally without some fairly high end process tooling your piece is going to be fairly heavy once done. As well, if you're working from the inside out, there's a shit-ton of filing/sanding/ swearing, bondo filling, cheese grating, most sanding...a lot more swearing etc etc et all, to get it smooth and clean. What a pain.....

I just thought of a way to make nice pieces without an autoclave. Tried it last night, seems to work well.

Make a 'master' of the shape you want. Plaster works well and can be primered and waxed to a very smooth surface. Once there a female mold can be taken from the nifty male blank.
(Don'tcha love the whole male/female dichotomy when it comes to things like this?)
Build up the outside of the mold and resin it into a box or add some 'legs' or other structure so it'll lay on the bench with it's opening (I'm going to hell huh?) facing up, needs to be solid and stable.

Coat your new feminine mold with release so it'll be slippery, slop in a few layers of glass mat/chop...whatever your preferred combo is...

here's the cool part......
use a black garbage bag (thin and cheap is best), cut it up to make a sheet.
Lay that into the mold and then fill the entire thing with **warm** sand. I only fooled around with a small box shape I had on hand but it was shockingly easy and the end result is really uniform, light and really strong. No air voids, no really thick parts etc. I'm pretty stocked at how easy it was and how nice the piece came out. I'm going to make some larger bits for a bike this weekend but I have no doubt that they'll come out really well. Give it a shot.......


**was pointed out to me that HOT sand would melt the garbage bag. That's bad. I warmed the sand I had in the oven at 300* for 1/2 hour, the working temp by the time I got it out to the garage and ready to pour was probably closer to 110*-120*
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: msimm43 on Oct 16, 2009, 19:00:11
Easy polish for Chrome and Aluminum.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Chrome-Polishing,-Mythbusters-Style/ (http://www.instructables.com/id/Chrome-Polishing,-Mythbusters-Style/)

My Brother sent me this link today. I have yet to see the results in person, but I am going to try it out soon.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Oct 21, 2009, 14:45:06
msimm,
Be wary of this method, I have not done this before myself, but IMO this may cause surface scratching from the foil itself, then you will be back to polishing the old fashioned way anyway!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Oct 21, 2009, 15:31:14
msimm,
Be wary of this method, I have not done this before myself, but IMO this may cause surface scratching from the foil itself, then you will be back to polishing the old fashioned way anyway!

Not a problem. Chrome is very hard, something like rockwell 56 (?) and aluminum foil is nowhere near that, it's probably too soft to measure on the rockwell scale. Anything you see left on the surface will be deposited aluminum and only if your work piece is really really rough.

Coke and a foil ball is a decent method for freshening up chrome stuff that's getting a little flat looking. If you're dealing with big pits of flaking plate then you have larger issues to worry about.

So....go to it.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Oct 21, 2009, 16:33:01
Swagger:
Cool, good to know! But aluminium was also mentioned in there, would the same be true for that application?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Oct 21, 2009, 17:03:33
I just skimmed that 'ible and didn't see aluminum mentioned other than the foil.
I don't think I'd use this method on aluminum. It's by nature a soft metal, even 7xxx series is pretty easily scarred. As well, aluminum has a nasty habit of galling and pressure welding when two pieces are rubbed together. I could imagine that you could possibly actually create extra roughness by depositing and galling/pressure welding the deposit right to the surface.
I see it now and again where two pieces of scrap aluminum in the bin will contact or rub against each other with enough force to create all manner of ugly lump shite. Just a heads up...

You're best served to polish aluminum the old fashioned way. Sand any rough bits down, starting around 320 grit and working up to 1500 or so, then start with a light cutting compound, follow up with jewelers rouge and finish it with a good wax buff.

Flitz makes an interesting polishing ball thingie that's for use in a power drill etc. Sold primarily to car guys for wheels and such but could be used on other parts. I hesitate to call it polishing as it just kinda smooths over the imperfections in the surface without actually removing them, it does a credible job brightening aluminum surfaces up pretty well. Most will see it and think..."wow nice polish" so...it's up to you how much you care about it.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Oct 24, 2009, 21:22:19
Can you's take one of thems Halos and stick rights on tops of your heed (with a power soorce),,,,,,,,,JJJJJJJEEEEEZZZZ I'd bee in mass every friday night with the vicker winking at me,,,ands I'm sure heed have other toughts,,, just a nodder tought...could installs them in a outdoar shitter,,,just below the lid......dump visions,,,,,,,
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Oct 26, 2009, 08:46:02
...could installs them in a outdoar shitter,,,just below the lid......dump visions,,,,,,,

Hahahahaha!!!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Oct 26, 2009, 21:47:15
and you figured it out Staffy :D.....I could thinks of other places to put thems tings,,  ::)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Oct 26, 2009, 21:59:27
I thinks my wifey might like it when the lights off at night if you know what i mean ;)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Oct 27, 2009, 12:03:00
Hey Mods, can we get the garbage cleaned outta this thread?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Oct 29, 2009, 22:54:32
Whats mods are yous pissed at..staffy's and me's were tinking about allluminatings the under side of the cape breton and or newfie hunting camp shitter,,,,,,,,other than  screech and dat tekillyas  stuff......what in christs!! what would these glow goodies,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,be good for?????????????.........somebody on the mainland would mount;s thems on a velocipede,,or a step off scooters.....thay comes with lights on the front and bachs??????????  buy flouresants or kneeons,,,,or just duck tape a flash lite under its.....who would monts this to any bike I can'ts understans
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hillsy on Oct 30, 2009, 02:07:06
Whats mods are yous pissed at..staffy's and me's were tinking about allluminatings the under side of the cape breton and or newfie hunting camp shitter,,,,,,,,other than  screech and dat tekillyas  stuff......what in christs!! what would these glow goodies,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,be good for?????????????.........somebody on the mainland would mount;s thems on a velocipede,,or a step off scooters.....thay comes with lights on the front and bachs??????????  buy flouresants or kneeons,,,,or just duck tape a flash lite under its.....who would monts this to any bike I can'ts understans

Dude - what the hell are you smokin??

Pass it this way, whatever it is..... ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Oct 30, 2009, 18:30:56
Whats mods are yous pissed at..staffy's and me's were tinking about allluminatings the under side of the cape breton and or newfie hunting camp shitter,,,,,,,,other than  screech and dat tekillyas  stuff......what in christs!! what would these glow goodies,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,be good for?????????????.........somebody on the mainland would mount;s thems on a velocipede,,or a step off scooters.....thay comes with lights on the front and bachs??????????  buy flouresants or kneeons,,,,or just duck tape a flash lite under its.....who would monts this to any bike I can'ts understans

Wow....I rest my case.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Nov 06, 2009, 22:18:31
stop programming for a minute .......find the humour..........umm not smokin a damn thing,,,,,,,,,but,,,,could fall off the wagon,,,,some time soon,,,,,,or laters ::)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Nov 10, 2009, 18:08:05
stop programming for a minute .......find the humour..........umm not smokin a damn thing,,,,,,,,,but,,,,could fall off the wagon,,,,some time soon,,,,,,or laters ::)

 we know your just seeking attention, unfortunatly, your posts are not funny, not even in a pathetic way.

PJ
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on Nov 10, 2009, 18:50:49
+1
I knew we could count on you to tell it as it is PJ.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Maritime on Nov 13, 2009, 09:31:41
Heres a goosd one for all you GL1000 guys,  I was riding the bike to work yesterday, it's been running excellent, when all of a sudden hit a bump and the bike just dies. I was pulling in to drop of some rentals at blockbuster so I coasted to the closed parking spot.  Figure it has to be a fuse as this happened on my 450.  Well check the only fuse box I knew of the top of my head nad no blown fuses.  Call the wife to get me and take me back to work.... Google to the rescue. Main fuse for the bike is in a little plastic box right by the starter solinoid beside the battery,  The fuse is a little strip of metal between 2 contacts designed to blow at 30 amps.  Well mine was the original and it had corroded until it broke, it did not blow, just split at the rusty spot, so when I hit the bump, apart it came and bike just quit.  So these things are nto available anywhere but a honda dealer. To get the bike home i bypassed the fuse, fired it up and drove it the few KM's home. Then went to Princess auto, bought a 3.00 blade fuse holder and a pack of 3.00 30 amp fuses.  a little cutting, soldering and shrink toube and now have a 30 amp main fuse that can be bought at any gas station.  Will get picks later but anyone who hasn't doen this I highly recomend it.  It is not a good idea to run without the fuse for long and the OEM is not an easy find.  And for 6 bucks I still ahve 4 spares now residing in the bike.

Cheers,

Maritime
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: diesel450 on Nov 13, 2009, 12:02:42
Great idea! I had the same thing happen to my 350 and I did the same thing. I then went around and did this to all 4 of my bikes that are all at least 25 years old. Got rid of all the old fuses. Gives great peace of mind.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Tim on Nov 13, 2009, 12:31:37
That's why the old bikes have spare fuse holders :)

When I wired up my 650 project I did it with a single 20A mini blade fuse.  Easy to carry spares too.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Represto on Nov 27, 2009, 21:21:52
Wee Todd for poster of the year!  I love your posts bud
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Nov 28, 2009, 03:28:29
x2 He seems to have a wealth of knowledge, you just have to think sideways to understand him!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Dec 01, 2009, 22:40:25
And to thinks,,,,even crazy pajamas has an attiltude >: pj is a wealth of knowledge......I just like stirring up shit,,,,,,,,it's fun ;D,,,now everybody get back to work of those fresh barn finds,,,clean off the pigeon shit!! ::)....I plan to post something intelligent,,,,soon!...........................Todd
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 02, 2009, 13:23:48
We can all hope.



Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 02, 2009, 13:43:52
Ok here's a couple other bits..

1) New light for old sealed beam headlights.
Most all of our bikes are old. Old bikes come with old lighting, generally sealed beam and unfortunately, not only are they less and less available, more and more expensive...they generally suck. Dunno about you kats but I like seeing where I'm going whilst riding at night.

Snot a problem man! If you have a decent sealed beam and a light base to fit the bulb you want you can easily rework to suit. The glass used in sealed beam lights generally isn't tempered, at least to my experience. As such the glass can be worked just like any other. I used to work in a glass shop back in highschool, we did all sorts of weird stuff back then. I mounted a pair of H4 bulb bases into the reflectors of a 31 Ford, worked well. Don't see why it wouldn't here so long as your new bulb isn't going to be too deep....

Get yourself some glass etching liquid, most craft stores will have some. Etch the back of the sealed beam from the bulb connector to the rim. Then cover the entire light in a couple layers of painters tape, use a belt sander to basically grind off the existing connector/filament base such that your new bulb will fit inside without contacting. If you can, a wet sander is better but if you don't have access, work slow and let it cool often. If it gets too hot to hold with bare hands then you run the risk if it shattering.

Now take your other light with the bulb mount and since it's likely plastic, dremel off the base and file the edges clean. You want to leave enough material to completely overlap the cut out sealed beam. At this point, I'd scuff the inside of the new bulb flange, peel the painters tape off the back of the formerly sealed beam and epoxy the two sections together. Lay the sealed beam on a flat surface such that it's supported and won't wobble. Align the new bulb flange to the glass portion so that it's as straight as possible though you'll have a certain amount of room as long as it's not ridiculously out of alignment. Once the initial epoxy application has hardened, I'd add a little fiberglass cloth and another layer of epoxy though that may be overkill.

things to keep in mind:
1) Do a test fit, under power. There's a little 'wiggle room' as far as filament position is concerned. Just be sure that you're getting good light output in a decent pattern.

2) Be sure you're housing and the new bulb flange are both oriented the same ie; up/up not up/down

3) Before using your adhesive of choice, be sure the glass housing is nice and clean. No need to trap dust and gunk.

Someone asked about using something like silicone caulk as an adhesive....dunno why that wouldn't work so long as the temps are within range.


And also: Plate mounts.
Lost of us are looking for nice plate mounting brackets. If you're of the mind to make yours...more power to ya! If however you'd rather there was something to be had, here you go:
Curved: https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/1891/License-Plate-Bracket--Curved/ (https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/1891/License-Plate-Bracket--Curved/)

Flat : https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/991/Universal-License-Plate-Holder/
 
Flat Lightened: https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/1890/License-Plate-Bracket--Lightened/

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: loudest143 on Dec 02, 2009, 14:58:21
Or you could just buy one of these, and be done with it.  Looks great, light is excellent, and comes with an H4 bulb of the correct wattage, so you won't ruin your electrical system.  Plug and play, fits right in, no hassles.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-H4-MOTORCYCLE-HEADLIGHT-HARLEY-HONDA-YAMAHA-KAWASAKI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ef20306e2QQitemZ270348256994QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-H4-MOTORCYCLE-HEADLIGHT-HARLEY-HONDA-YAMAHA-KAWASAKI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ef20306e2QQitemZ270348256994QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)

I've got one on my bike, and love it.

loudest143
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 02, 2009, 16:54:31
that's great if you're running a 7" light and i see that he's got 5 3/4" as well.
On one shelf at the shop I've got a small pile of headlights ranging from 11" 30's industrial truck down to these weird 3" seal beam from some moped. I've got some neat but oddly shaped ones two, old polygon shaped 60's scooter lights, an oddball triangular one too.

I guess I was more pointing to a solution for limited availability, now if you're rocking a standard size light...there are much easier options to be had that's true.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Dec 02, 2009, 20:15:42
A great idea for an inexpensive camera mount.
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/961122/diy_motorcycle_camera_mount/
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on Dec 02, 2009, 21:05:10
Staffy, damn you. I just spent over an hour looking at DIY videos because of you. We should require a disclaimer for possibly addictive links.  :D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Dec 02, 2009, 21:07:48
Hahaha are there other good one's there?  I should go back and look.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 03, 2009, 13:17:22
WOW we are at 98 total mods now on here! hell ya!!!! i have updated the main page links so that they are now up to date.. keep them coming!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wee Todd on Dec 04, 2009, 23:25:09
Swaggler....yup we can all hope,,whatever ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on Dec 13, 2009, 16:48:24
Motorcycle table, $40 in wood +screws.
materials:
-one 4' x 8' osb board, rip to 3' wide as the tabletop
-four 2x4x8' as frame rails
-2 2x4x8', cut to 3 pieces of 32" each for braces
-one 4x4x12' cut to six lengths of 2' as legs
I put the center braces a foot off from the center for the centerstand
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3002/3084214907_a47d4f643b_b.jpg)
picture doesn't show the leg braces across the bottom. Height was measured for handlebar clearance under the opened garage door.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3244/3085052898_a203304750_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2651/4180672454_0d08c1797d_b.jpg)
of course you'll need a ramp to get the bike up and off, my ramp's a 2x12x8ft long plank with ramp attachements (originally used for landscaping equipment).

Seriously, a must have. no more working on the ground. Use a metal plate to put under the centerstand for weight distribution.Very sturdy, can hold my 650lb. bike, my 165 lb-but I wouldn't try kickstarting on the table, just for balance issues. Underneath is a great place for storage,too.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on Dec 13, 2009, 16:51:18
my original post on the GSR:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=135035&highlight=table
links to other designs, tables on casters, metal tables with hydraulic lifts...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 14, 2009, 13:11:29
very nice! i made mine out of plywood and milk crates... nice addition!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Garage Rat on Dec 23, 2009, 20:49:29
Making cable ends:

A week and a half ago my throttle cable broke on my sled. I thought it was the throttle cable however it was a weird intermediate cable/ system?... I couldn't find the part, ANYWHERE, not online, not at my parts store, the local (only) bicycle shop did'nt have any connections like this or anywhere. So I made one.  Here's how it goes. (my camera is on the fritz and the bike takes priority over a new camera)


The broken cable and looking through my scrap shelf I found an old choke cable from my 750, the clip broke but the cable was great:

(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c276/Ed_Guy/DSC03156.jpg)


File lead knob to fit the case:

(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c276/Ed_Guy/DSC03157.jpg)

(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c276/Ed_Guy/DSC03158.jpg)

Next my inital plan was to take a mold of the old what I thought was lead piece, heat it up, remove the old broken wire and insert the new one. Its not lead... I pulled the piece out and used what I had as a mold for lead. Next problem was the wire just slipped out. I bend an electrical connector from my assortment to crimp on the wire and fit inside the lead piece:

(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c276/Ed_Guy/DSC03159.jpg)

(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c276/Ed_Guy/DSC03160.jpg)

(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c276/Ed_Guy/DSC03161.jpg)

(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c276/Ed_Guy/DSC03165.jpg)

(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c276/Ed_Guy/DSC03163.jpg)

(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c276/Ed_Guy/DSC03164.jpg)

(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c276/Ed_Guy/DSC03166.jpg)

Next and last step was file to fit/ match the old one and install.

Done!

Questions?

(does a mod want to remove the thread I made?)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread cheap teflon carb o rings
Post by: mojomoto on Jan 05, 2010, 14:56:49
Thought id give a tip.
I was working on a cb550, the carbs to be exact. I noticed that the main jet o rings were hard and not sealing very good so... I used some plumbers teflon tape in place of the o rings. I wraped the tape in the grove of the jet untill i thought it was more than the original hard o ring. Pressed them in and....been about 8 years ago still running strong. Teflon is resistant to pretty tough and does not turn to goo in almost any gasoline.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: loudest143 on Jan 21, 2010, 16:52:18
If you are a carb tuning guy like me, you hate the process of pulling off the hoses and putting them on your carb adapters every time you need to make some sort of adjustment to the carb tuner.

My Motion Pro carb tuners' instructions says I should 'calibrate' the tuner to the number 3 carb with the hose combiner each time you tune your carbs.  The problem is, you would have to leave your other carb adapters out, then put them in after the bike is really hot, and I'm a sissy and don't like to burn my hands. :D

Solution:  Old clear fueline, that fits over the carb adapters and a 10-32 machine screw.  I screwed them in to the end of the tubing, and it slides onto the other 3 carb adapters nice and snug.  You can start your bike and run it with these in place, and still get your carb sync 'calibrated' without having to take these little beauties off.  Couple of camera phone shots for reference.

(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h165/loudest143/moto/0118101553b.jpg)

(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h165/loudest143/moto/0118101553a.jpg)
Happy Motoring.

Your Internet Pal,
Loudest143
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: krukster86 on Jan 21, 2010, 18:05:58
Or you could just buy one of these, and be done with it.  Looks great, light is excellent, and comes with an H4 bulb of the correct wattage, so you won't ruin your electrical system.  Plug and play, fits right in, no hassles.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-H4-MOTORCYCLE-HEADLIGHT-HARLEY-HONDA-YAMAHA-KAWASAKI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ef20306e2QQitemZ270348256994QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-H4-MOTORCYCLE-HEADLIGHT-HARLEY-HONDA-YAMAHA-KAWASAKI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ef20306e2QQitemZ270348256994QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)

I've got one on my bike, and love it.

loudest143
Just plug and play? I have a CB360 and I am kinda interested in this. However, before reading this post I kept hearing that if you plan to upgrade to a halogen headlight, you would need to convert basically all other bulbs to LEDs first so that you don't draw too much current to kill your electrical system. Is it not the case here?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hillsy on Jan 21, 2010, 18:50:11
Just plug and play? I have a CB360 and I am kinda interested in this. However, before reading this post I kept hearing that if you plan to upgrade to a halogen headlight, you would need to convert basically all other bulbs to LEDs first so that you don't draw too much current to kill your electrical system. Is it not the case here?

That light has a 55/60W bulb - which shouldn't be any more wattage than your stock bulb. Halogens are brighter per W than incandescent.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: loudest143 on Jan 21, 2010, 18:51:48
This particular headlamp assembly uses a 55/60 lo/hi h4 lamp.  On my bike*(that's my disclaimer) it is the same wattage range as the OEM incandescent.  Sooooo, no extra voltage/wattage used.  What you REALLY get with this unit is the upgraded reflector in the assembly itself.  Much different than the old sealed beam stuff.  Longer throw, whiter light with the H4 lamp.  Again, I'm not an expert.  But I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.  

my bike btw is an 82 suzuki gs850.

On my china scooter, I smoked my entire electrical system installing 55w lamps where the OEM were 35w.  YAY!!!  Stators are fun to replace.  So glad that POS is gone.

loudest143

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: krukster86 on Jan 21, 2010, 18:52:54
According to my wiring diagram, the headlight is listed as 12V50/35W
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: loudest143 on Jan 21, 2010, 19:00:43
You could use the lense assembly, but would need to get a different lamp/bulb.  Sorry, I call bulbs lamps and lamps bulbs, hope you knew what I meant. ;D  Your low beam wattage is 35w.  Your high beam wattage is 50w.  The 55w/60w (low/high) would be too much wattage.  Buying a different wattage bulb is easily done at any auto parts store, and they can get you the brightest, whitest lamp to fit your wattage range.  Knowing what your limitations are, surf Ebay and other online locales to find what you need.  You've got a lamp wattage that is close to alot of new scooters, so partsforscooters.com is a good place to start.  Make sure you know what your lamp looks like, as the connections vary where they attach to the connector.

The thing I like the best about that lense is the better long throw visibility.  I shoulda bought the one with the skull on the reflector though. 

loudest143
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Jan 23, 2010, 01:39:50
According to my wiring diagram, the headlight is listed as 12V50/35W

 You sure about that?
 It may be a misprint?
 You can use early Yamaha FZR1000 H4 bulbs, 35w/35w.

PJ
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: krukster86 on Jan 23, 2010, 12:41:27
For CB360 (USA Type)

(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm45/krukster86/Untitled-3.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Feb 02, 2010, 22:21:10
Didn't know that, UK CB360's are 35/35w, that's why I said use Yamaha bulb (That's what I'm going to use in mine)
 Thought we were talking about GS850?

PJ
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Feb 10, 2010, 13:11:34
Ok here's one. I was pretty skeptical when tire beads were mentioned by another member as I'd had no experience with them. I went round and round in my own head until a local shop started offering 'active balancers' in place of standard lead weights.
I had a chance for a quick ride on Dad's Sprint ST (2007) with the commercial bead balancers and I gotta say I'm fairly impressed. Seems to be just as smooth as a tire balanced the in the standard manner.

I expected some noise but really with the helmet on and the (OEM) exhaust song I could perceive nothing. Nor do they affect the 'feel' in any way that I could tell.

So here's a cheap way especially for the DIY guys out there who mount their own rubber.
Go grab yourself a jug of 6mm Airsoft BBs, the higher weight the better. They are CHEAP, more or less perfectly round and the plasitc they are composed of won't chew anything up when they are pinging around inside the tire.
I talked to the guy that did the tires for Dad (known him for years) and he told me to get the airsoft BBs....he's almost certain that what they use in the shop are just repackaged airsoft rounds. Cooool! As a guideline he suggested 58grams in a 190/17 rear, and 40grams for a typical 130/17 front. That's probably a safe place to start, jsut adjust to suit.

Now this generally applied to tubeless tires but I remember doing all sorts of goofy things to the tube in my dirtbikes to make'm hold up...right up to anti-freeze to help seal up punctures. I suppose one could cut a small entry point into the wall of the tube, add the bbs then patch. Having patched several hundred (at least it felt that way) in the mud on the side of a trail, it doesn't seem like that much of a stretch to me. You may have other feelings about the evils of tube tires....your call.

Have fun and enjoy a nice smooth ride!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Feb 18, 2010, 10:49:55
Less than $10 headlight ears!
Well it may cost you a little more, but you will have left over material!

Supplies:
1 Aluminum C Channel (see photos)
2 nuts
2 bolts/screws
1 cereal box

Tools:
Hacksaw
benchgrinder/file set
drill/drill bits
razor knife

1) using the cereal box cut you basic template shape
2) test fit it to the forks and headlight
3) transpose template to C channel
4) Cut away undesired material with hacksaw
5) clean up the cuts with the grinder or files
6) bend your mounting tab out 90 degrees away from the C channel
7) clamp the bracket to the fork tube with a clamp and force the long end around the tube by hand until mounting tab comes all the way around
8) drill holes for securing screw and headlight mount
9) mount and RIDE!

C channel purchased from Lowes for like $8 total!
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11543.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11544.jpg)
Template
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11545.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11546.jpg)
After cut and bent
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11547.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11548.jpg)
Drilled and on
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11549.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11551.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11552.jpg)
DONE! they will require a little more cleaning up and some finish work, but you get it!
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11558.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11560.jpg)
I will be replacing the screw with a button socket head bolt on my build, it looks better than the screw.
Cheap and fairly easy!
I hope it helps some of you out there!
BUILT NOT BOUGHT!


Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: noahdog on Feb 18, 2010, 11:39:39
F'ng brilliant! I'll be borrowing that mod for my bobber project for sure. ;D I'll need new ears for my new chrome bucket which is way smaller than the stock 7" headlight.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Feb 18, 2010, 12:01:13
You can check out some more pics of the headlight ears in my build thread! Click the link to Project Eileen below. Page 16!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcmspikes on Feb 18, 2010, 16:28:51
damn, that turned out well.  how sturdy does it feel? 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Feb 18, 2010, 16:32:12
FANTASTIC idea!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Feb 18, 2010, 16:37:57
Its pretty damn sturdy, I think it will be fine to hold a headlight no problem! It is stronger than it looks for sure, and really light!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Feb 18, 2010, 21:03:27
Its pretty damn sturdy, I think it will be fine to hold a headlight no problem! It is stronger than it looks for sure, and really light!
Awesome idea, definately gonna steal that one on my next build!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Herm on Feb 18, 2010, 21:47:48
It's amazing what can be thought up with an apple jacks box down in the dirty south! That's some good shit right dar wheelz!! I'll definetely be giving this a try!! Kudos brother.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on Feb 19, 2010, 10:54:04
I think this is gonna be like Herm's rearsets. It isn't DTT if it isn't rocking  DIY Herm rearsets, and tWistedWheelz headlight brackets!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Feb 19, 2010, 11:18:11
It's amazing what can be thought up with an apple jacks box down in the dirty south! That's some good shit right dar wheelz!! I'll definetely be giving this a try!! Kudos brother.

Don't forget the whiskey! It took a bit to get to that point of the design!

I am a bit like a salt shaker filled with ideas, most of them crap, but I keep shaking until something good comes out!

BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Feb 19, 2010, 20:15:04
Don't forget the whiskey! It took a bit to get to that point of the design!

I am a bit like a salt shaker filled with ideas, most of them crap, but I keep shaking until something good comes out!

BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
DAMN STRAIGHT!!!!
I may blow you shit about your drill bits... but you're tallents are AWESOME... and to the whiskey!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: diesel450 on Feb 20, 2010, 09:25:41
Ok here's one. I was pretty skeptical when tire beads were mentioned by another member as I'd had no experience with them. I went round and round in my own head until a local shop started offering 'active balancers' in place of standard lead weights.
I had a chance for a quick ride on Dad's Sprint ST (2007) with the commercial bead balancers and I gotta say I'm fairly impressed. Seems to be just as smooth as a tire balanced the in the standard manner.

I expected some noise but really with the helmet on and the (OEM) exhaust song I could perceive nothing. Nor do they affect the 'feel' in any way that I could tell.

So here's a cheap way especially for the DIY guys out there who mount their own rubber.
Go grab yourself a jug of 6mm Airsoft BBs, the higher weight the better. They are CHEAP, more or less perfectly round and the plasitc they are composed of won't chew anything up when they are pinging around inside the tire.
I talked to the guy that did the tires for Dad (known him for years) and he told me to get the airsoft BBs....he's almost certain that what they use in the shop are just repackaged airsoft rounds. Cooool! As a guideline he suggested 58grams in a 190/17 rear, and 40grams for a typical 130/17 front. That's probably a safe place to start, jsut adjust to suit.

Now this generally applied to tubeless tires but I remember doing all sorts of goofy things to the tube in my dirtbikes to make'm hold up...right up to anti-freeze to help seal up punctures. I suppose one could cut a small entry point into the wall of the tube, add the bbs then patch. Having patched several hundred (at least it felt that way) in the mud on the side of a trail, it doesn't seem like that much of a stretch to me. You may have other feelings about the evils of tube tires....your call.

Have fun and enjoy a nice smooth ride!

I put Dynabeads in a tube tire. the manufacturer instructs putting the beads in through the valve stem. You unscrew the valve from the stem and pour them in that way. Are the BB's you're talking about too big to do this with?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: rjz5400 on Mar 02, 2010, 11:50:39
i had brown water loud tank (rust) after lots of attempts, nuts and bolts, rinsing, wd40, muriatic acid, over and over and over.
what works on STEEL and not ALUMINUM is dollar store "the works " toilet bowl cleaner!! it has the highest concentration of some wicked dangerous chemical ever in it. and

 my tank came out completely spotless after using it 100 percent strength, soaking an hour, then adding water to fill, 5 min, and dump it all down the toilet, then i just mixed a little baking soda, in water and switched it around to neutralize the acid, water to get out the baking soda, then dry with towel or hair dryer (both) and fog it with wd40 or motor oil or trans fluid, whatever is on hand to protect. or if you are ready you can fill it with gas to keep the flash rust from returning.

two most important things to do
 1 do not do this at all if you have an aluminum cap, tank or petcock take them of and wait until dry before replacing them on the tank. if not then at the end you will have a puddle of metal and likely a good size acid burn from the leak, this stuff eats aluminum,
2 the baking soda and oil to protect are crucial don't do them and in minutes you will have black oxidization and have to re rinse or start over
3 BE CARE-full and do this as if you were using a powerful chemical to dissolve metal because you are!!!!

for more reading i saw a long post about tank cleaning on sohc4

i was so frustrated with other methods and shitty results that i got a little ranty. OVER

total cost 15-20 dollars depending on size of tank and dollar store proximity
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Mar 02, 2010, 12:01:15
That stuff make a fun little bomb too! Take a plastic drink bottle of any size with screw on cap. Take a small piece of aluminum foil and rip it to small shreds and place them in the bottle. Pour in a little of "the works" about two tble spoons. Quickly after adding, screw the cap on tight and move away from it. Some bottles are better than others! Gatoraid is good!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Deviant1 on Mar 02, 2010, 12:08:46
+1 the works makes a wicked bomb! Ahh misspent youth.
How much of the chemical did you use (i.e. How many bottles and what size)?
I've got a nasty nasty tank on my cb350...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: diesel450 on Mar 05, 2010, 01:25:21
That stuff make a fun little bomb too! Take a plastic drink bottle of any size with screw on cap. Take a small piece of aluminum foil and rip it to small shreds and place them in the bottle. Pour in a little of "the works" about two tble spoons. Quickly after adding, screw the cap on tight and move away from it. Some bottles are better than others! Gatoraid is good!

I knew you were a redneck, we've got em up here, I know how to spot em'.  But this takes the cake.  ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Mar 05, 2010, 12:56:12
I knew you were a redneck, we've got em up here, I know how to spot em'.  But this takes the cake.  ;D

I'm not redneck, just country, there is a big difference! Rednecks are ignorent asses, I am just an ass! When you grow up in a small town, you find ways to entertain yourself! Check out the anarchist cookbook, tons of fun stuff in there!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: VonYinzer on Mar 05, 2010, 13:00:32
I'm not redneck, just country, there is a big difference! Rednecks are ignorent asses, I am just an ass! When you grow up in a small town, you find ways to entertain yourself! Check out the anarchist cookbook, tons of fun stuff in there!

Just dont order it online... You'll end up on a watchlist. (the Cookbook tha is...) Gotta watch out for Big Brother and whatnot...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: diesel450 on Mar 05, 2010, 14:00:50
Just ribbin' :D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Mar 05, 2010, 23:39:37
Check out the anarchist cookbook, tons of fun stuff in there!
Amazing what you can do with a mouse trap... ain't it?  ;)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on Mar 06, 2010, 00:49:08
Just dont order it online... You'll end up on a watchlist. (the Cookbook tha is...) Gotta watch out for Big Brother and whatnot...

Now that it has been mentioned were already on a watch list. Big Brother is probably tapping everyone of us now. DTT will be made out to be the next Black Trenchcoat Mafia now. Shit I just heard a black Helicopter... No, wait, those are stealth mode right?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Mar 08, 2010, 19:13:20
Diesle450: I dunno if they'll fit down a valve stem, that's a great question. Could make them a no-go for tube tires...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: diesel450 on Mar 11, 2010, 10:17:39
Diesle450: I dunno if they'll fit down a valve stem, that's a great question. Could make them a no-go for tube tires...

The Dyna beads do fit in the stem. Check them out for tube tires.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on Mar 12, 2010, 21:30:10
paper gasket:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rx5hGKt1PY

I thought, no way, that'll leak after 3 miles. Well, paper has been a gasket standard for decades. of course I wouldn't be swinging a hammer at my cast aluminum cases!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: SrgtBear on Mar 26, 2010, 14:37:48
I did the same thing with my wheels but instead after I masked off the area with tape I use an abrasive blaster on the spoke and hub and used acrylic lacquer and clear coat instead.  Hopefully should do the job just as well.  I hope.

(http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs390.snc3/23787_605086135827_45601142_34736474_4616956_n.jpg)

Ted
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: rjz5400 on Mar 30, 2010, 15:31:06
for the works tank cleaner i used three bottles. i think it took so many because i was diluting it. adding water every time to the works.

i think after doing two tanks this way, the best method is full strength, swirl, sit swirl every like 5 minutes until it stops smoking and making noise, then fill with water dump out, refill with full strength and repeat, one third of a bottle at a time. then once all the rust is gone rinse with baking soda water dry,  and coat with two stroke motor oil or wd40 whatever you have around to keep it fro flash rusting.
i found many new rust holes in mine that go all the way through so i will be using lots of jb weld on the outside to fill in the seams and holes.
anyway the bottles only cost 1.50 at the dollar tree here in NC so i could get like ten and fill it up and just wait. it would still cost less than some of the commercial cleaner setups for cleaning tanks.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcwp on Mar 30, 2010, 16:48:39
I picked up some of that The Works stuff this weekend and can't wait to treat my tank. 

Did you guys get any reactions from the stuff mixing with gas still in the tank?  I've got mine about as clean as it goes, but I know there are still traces of gas in there.  I sure wouldn't drop a cigarette into it, so I wonder how clean it needs to be for the acids?

I suppose the baking soda might be a bigger issue (acid + base and all that), but on that end I'm fairly sure I can flush sufficiently with water.

Thanks
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Mar 30, 2010, 18:54:00
Less than $10 headlight ears!
Well it may cost you a little more, but you will have left over material!

Supplies:
1 Aluminum C Channel (see photos)
2 nuts
2 bolts/screws
1 cereal box

Tools:
Hacksaw
benchgrinder/file set
drill/drill bits
razor knife

1) using the cereal box cut you basic template shape
2) test fit it to the forks and headlight
3) transpose template to C channel
4) Cut away undesired material with hacksaw
5) clean up the cuts with the grinder or files
6) bend your mounting tab out 90 degrees away from the C channel
7) clamp the bracket to the fork tube with a clamp and force the long end around the tube by hand until mounting tab comes all the way around
8) drill holes for securing screw and headlight mount
9) mount and RIDE!

C channel purchased from Lowes for like $8 total!
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11543.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11544.jpg)
Template
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11545.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11546.jpg)
After cut and bent
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11547.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11548.jpg)
Drilled and on
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11549.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11551.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11552.jpg)
DONE! they will require a little more cleaning up and some finish work, but you get it!
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11558.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee5/mk25diver/SDC11560.jpg)
I will be replacing the screw with a button socket head bolt on my build, it looks better than the screw.
Cheap and fairly easy!
I hope it helps some of you out there!
BUILT NOT BOUGHT!




this was my inspiration for my over flow bottle holder
(http://i39.tinypic.com/qrd6c5.jpg)

(http://i40.tinypic.com/168ue8k.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dixiedevil on Apr 13, 2010, 21:32:23
BUMP the gasket making, that just saved me $$$
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: interceptor on May 11, 2010, 23:04:05
Don't know if this is the right place to post this, but seems like it might be. 
And, I don't know if this exists on the market, but I made it about 7 years ago, and I swear by it. 
It's a syphon that uses compressed air to start the "flow".
I used spare parts I had lying around at work, so there was no cost to me.  But can't be more than 10 bucks to make.   

1 thin aluminum tube about 10" long
1 hose clamp
about a 4' piece of flexible rubber tubing that fits over aluminum tube

Drill a hole in aluminum tube towards the end where you clamp the hose to the tube.  Done.  Stick flexible tube into fuel tank, place aluminum tube end in container (gas can that is lower than tank being syphoned), blow compressed air through hole in tube (shoot air towards container) and a syphon will be made.  Drop aluminum piece in container when you see fuel, and go have a beer.  I would guess that the bigger the hose, the faster it will syphon, but don't know how easy it would be to start syphon.  I'm using about a 3/8" hose.  I'm also using a blow gun that has a detachable rubber end on it so it creates a nice seal with the hole.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: interceptor on May 11, 2010, 23:18:53
Sorry guys, heres another one.  I made this the day a backpack blower wouldn't start.  Suspected it wasn't getting a spark because it wouldn't start, so I pulled the spark plug off and held it against the engine and pulled.  The only problem is that the engine was flooded.  So when all the fuel came rushing out of the spark plug hole when I pulled the recoil starter, the spark plug created a spark and actually ignited the fuel rushing towards my face. Scared the shit out of me. 
So I went to the spark plug bin, grabbed a spare spark plug, grabbed a hose clamp and a spare medium size electrical clamp (alligator clip type).  I bent the ear on the end of the electrial clamp 90 degrees, then I clamped that to the threads of the spark plug.  I now have my own spark tester.  Unplug spark plug wire and put on tester, then clamp the tester to the end of the spark plug still in the engine, try to start engine and look for spark.  Works great.  Worked for a long time, but then I found one at the store and I bought it.  Works just the same.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Roc City Cafe on May 27, 2010, 08:58:36
saw a clamp like this somewhere a while ago, couldn't find it again, so I made some...

machine screw, wing nut, washer, taper pin and some square tubing scrap

cost me about $10 for 4 of them, work like a charm for holding butt jointed sheet metal for welding
(http://www.roccitycafe.com/clamp1.jpg)
(http://www.roccitycafe.com/clamp2.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: bww_mn on May 30, 2010, 00:33:52
saw a clamp like this somewhere a while ago, couldn't find it again, so I made some...

machine screw, wing nut, washer, taper pin and some square tubing scrap

cost me about $10 for 4 of them, work like a charm for holding butt jointed sheet metal for welding


took me a second to figure out how it was holding the pieces together.  pretty clever.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: sebatron on May 30, 2010, 20:51:12
need to bend sheetmetal but can't fork out for a pressbrake? enter the...

Seriously Ghetto Bending Brake


As always I forget to take pictures along the way:
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/ghetto-fab%20bending%20brake/IMG_0957.jpg)
And just as a terrible example:
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/ghetto-fab%20bending%20brake/IMG_0959.jpg)
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/ghetto-fab%20bending%20brake/IMG_0960.jpg)
(yeah - pretty much only need 2 fingers to bend a license plate)
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/ghetto-fab%20bending%20brake/IMG_0961.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: sebatron on May 30, 2010, 21:47:30
Alright I'm on a roll.

All photos so far are here:
http://s857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/ (http://s857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/)

F*#k Hannah Montana Skateboard seatpan! (PART 1)
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/IMG_0946.jpg)
From the top:
Remove the trucks and the protective plastic sheet. Put the trucks aside, safe in the knowledge you'll probably make a bike stand out of them later.
Firstly, you need to think about how you want to secure the seat itself once it's finished.
My bike (Honda CB125S frame) has a raised mounting tab for the tank which the original seatpan fit under, and after shaving has 2 perpendicular holes in the frame to secure it just ahead of the fender:
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/IMG_0982.jpg) (forgive the iphone blurry photo)
I started by making a cardboard template for a rough shape and how to stick it under the tank tab.
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/IMG_0948.jpg)

Now the fun. Take 1 Hannah Montana skateboard; contemplate ramifications of supporting this corporate monstrosity, reminisce of embarrassment when dealing with store clerk and walking off with this deck.
Get yer Sharpie (permanent marker) and work out what you're going to cut off.

Cut that shit, and see if it sits right and secure under the tank tab:
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/IMG_0966.jpg)

At this point, I took it and shaped the end of the board for a squarer edge (my tank's pretty square, I want to maintain that shape)
I also smoothed out the sides flat with file. More photos in the gallery.

Now, line up the mounting holes, drill through and check if it all lines up:
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/IMG_0983.jpg)
Bit short, so I went for longer bolts that I'll cut to length later.

Once happy with the shape, hold it up and take a photo to make yourself feel warm and fuzzy later:
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/IMG_0980.jpg)

You can see how easy it'd be to cut a shorter one down, put normal grip tape on the top, a sheet of aluminium on the bottom, stick it on a bobber and call it a day.
Me, I want some padding. Take the camping foam, cut it to shape and stick it down. put some weight on it, pinch the edges with clamps, whatever works.
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/IMG_0989.jpg)

At this point you notice you're 30 miles from home, it's 8pm on a sunday and you need to get home.
Stick another 2 layers down the same way, with pva or adhesive of your choice between each layer. clamp it, weigh it down and hope it looks alright next week:
(http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/IMG_0991.jpg)

Again, all photos so far are here:
http://s857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/ (http://s857.photobucket.com/albums/ab137/sebatron_sc/Skateboard%20Seatpan/)

When I get back out there again, I'll take some proper photos of the end result and edit this post, consider this a PART ONE.

Thanks for reading.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on May 30, 2010, 22:23:46
Too bad the genius around here isn't focused on a cure for world hunger, or cancer. I am perpetually humbled by the ingenuity of DTT.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jun 05, 2010, 05:32:08
Seeing as how DIY tools are in here this is my valve spring compressor
Being the kind of guy who has various "stuff" laying around and little $$ I didn't want to spend much on a valve spring compressor to work on my Cyl heads. I fabbed this and had the heads apart in less than an hour... Total cost $0

Parts used, 2 thick flat washers the same size as the spring retainer and a piece of round stock.

(http://smile-media-production-1.s3.amazonaws.com/images/42c83f20fbb2012fe8f722000abc13d1/1350606696561.jpg)

Cut the round stock to two equal sizes and tack weld to one washer then the other. I then put it in a vice to hold square and finished the welds.

(http://smile-media-production-1.s3.amazonaws.com/images/42d9ed70fbb2012fe8f722000abc13d1/1350606696572.jpg)


Use a C-clamp with the new tool to compress the spring by putting the pivot foot at the threaded portion against the valve face and the tool on the spring retainer, compress and remove the keepers then slowly loosen the C-clamp.


(http://smile-media-production-1.s3.amazonaws.com/images/44446340fbb2012f7eff12313f02f13a/1350606697596.jpg)
 
*UPDATED* Because "webshots" where I hosted my pics went belly-up, I had to come back and reload my photos. Since that time I had to make a similar tool in a smaller size for my CB750 with shim and bucket style valves. This style is even easier to fabricate with no welding , just a piece of regular sched 40 PVC pipe (not the cheap thin wall sched 20 stuff).
Same idea as before plus I found a regular drink bottle cap just fit over the pivot foot of my C-clamp.
 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread - restoring badges
Post by: bikeboy on Jun 26, 2010, 06:01:19
Some suggested I post this here for all to see. So I have  ;)

While there seemed to be planty of tank badges on ebay, none of them where a match for the ones on this bike. While I waited for the right ones to pop-up, I thought I'd try to restore the originals.

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/onTank.jpg)

Undamaged, other than being weather-beaten.

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/before.jpg)

First step is to strip all old paint from the metal base.

I used an old toothbrush to apply the paint stripper, then ran the 'outlines' over the polishing buff just to give them a bit of a clean-up. Then I wiped them down with some thinners to clean off any residual polish.

Using double-sided tape, I stuck the badge on to a piece of aluminium I bent to match the curve for some support, and to make it easier to handle without touching the badge itself.

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/blackMask.jpg)

Masked and painted black.

I masked to the outer edge of the raised outline, then sprayed on a couple of thin coats of satin black. It's important to spray from as many angles as you can to get the most even coverage. The cross-hatching between the letters makes it difficult to cover with straight passes. you also have to make sure to hit all the egdes of the casting.

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/blackPeeled.jpg)


Once the paint has dried, peel the masking off.

For the white mask, You need to cut from the inside edge of the raised outline. This will leave the outline the unpainted chrome finish.

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/whiteMask.jpg)

Masked for white coat.


(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/final)

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/macro.jpg)


All done, and looking pretty good.

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/screws.jpg)

Not sure if the screws are still available or not, so I painted them anyway :-)

So feeling confident that nothing could go wrong (!), I attempted to rescue the sidecover badges as well. While one of these was OK, the other was fairly beat-up. Most of the chrome had gone-along with the paint-and there were some scratches on the metal. This is the best of the two, with the chrome in a 'servicable' condition:

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/sideCoverBefore.jpg)

So I started the process again by stripping all the paint, then masking up and painting the black background. While I was doing this I thought that a brushed finish might look good on these, because the sidecovers themselves are finished in a satin black.

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/stripped.jpg)

Stripped of paint, and first try at a 'brushed' finish on the raised section

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/unmasked01.jpg)

I also figured that I could finish painting the internal space of the GS lettering, then hand paint the red DOHC, and if I were to sand back the raised outines to a brushed finish, it would neaten up any messy fills.

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/dohc.jpg)


So that's what I did. The red and black are both satin finishes, which sits nicely behind the brushed silver outlines.

It's not stock, but I reckon it's what they should have done ;-)

I had to tackle the faded lettering on the guage cluster eventually, seeing as it was the only thing letting them down after the rest cleaned up so well. I ended up using a piece of aluminium as a sort of 'stamp pad'. Looks like this:

(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/pad.jpg)

I masked the areas surrounding the lettering to prevent any accidental bleeding. I thinned some white acrylic laquer and applied an even 'film' to the bottom of my 'pad'. I placed it over a raised line of lettering then rocked it gently up and down, then lifted it up. I washed the paint off the pad and re-applied it for the next line. All in all, it worked really well, and it looks pretty good:


(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/spottyWeb/lettering.jpg)

Looks pretty darn good. Nice clear letterforms, and no stray paint :-) Unfortunately I don't have a 'before' picture, but there was next to no paint at all left on the lettering.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jun 26, 2010, 22:27:00
Nice work! Got a question on the gauge cluster pad-print job.... How did you mask off the lettering to prevent bleeding? For me, that would be some mighty fine x-acto knife work... I drink too much coffee I guess. ::)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: bikeboy on Jun 27, 2010, 00:30:49
Nice work! Got a question on the gauge cluster pad-print job.... How did you mask off the lettering to prevent bleeding? For me, that would be some mighty fine x-acto knife work... I drink too much coffee I guess. ::)

You don't really need to. I just put tape around the surrounding area to protect it, but the raised lettering is enough to keep the pad from touching anything else. I thought if I put it down a bit skew or rocked it too much I would have a mess, but fortunately the embossing was high enough to make it easy. Another way is to get a fine brush and 'wipe' it across the letters, but this give a more even result.

cheers
ian
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Jun 27, 2010, 00:43:21
You don't really need to. I just put tape around the surrounding area to protect it, but the raised lettering is enough to keep the pad from touching anything else. I thought if I put it down a bit skew or rocked it too much I would have a mess, but fortunately the embossing was high enough to make it easy. Another way is to get a fine brush and 'wipe' it across the letters, but this give a more even result.

cheers
ian

On those raised letters, a paint pen from you local hobby shop found in the modeling area works great...they have a nice felt tip that you load by pressing it in..then just lightly wipe it across the top of the raised letters....Works great!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Jun 27, 2010, 02:54:48
I used a bamboo skewer dipped in paint on its side, the same one i was using to bleed paint into the lettering on the switch block. Glad you posted this Bikeboy.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: bikeboy on Jun 27, 2010, 03:28:19
On those raised letters, a paint pen from you local hobby shop found in the modeling area works great...they have a nice felt tip that you load by pressing it in..then just lightly wipe it across the top of the raised letters....Works great!

I have a similar thing for the raised lettering on tyres, but it's tip isn't fine enough for this type of work. Must try that 'paint-on-a-stick' thing for some other 'sunken' lettering staffy.

cheers
ian
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on Jul 25, 2010, 02:25:10
Stebel Nautilus Airhorn. 139 dB. Stock horns average at about 97 dB. If you're not familiar with the dB scale, 100dB is the relative sound of a jackhammer from 1m, and the human threshold of pain is 137.5dB. So yes, you will be heard with this!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/4826020212_30fbd51679_b.jpg)
Mounted on the battery box. Fits behind the air pods, and its position still lets it dump enough sound to be heard from far away-my friends came out of our house when I first tested it, telling me they thought they heard a train... (we don't live near train tracks!)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4825410757_92c4cc98f4_b.jpg)
Very easy to install. It comes with a four way relay, which I mounted on the battery box again. The instructions in the box weren't too helpful so follow this diagram:
(http://www.gratisimage.dk/image-C0E8_49D9E251.jpg)

This was the safest, cheapest mod I've made on any project. I highly recommend anyone to do this, It costs $40 on Amazon and can remind cage drivers that motorcycles exist.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on Jul 25, 2010, 03:06:03
Another safety/cool investment is making your own stainless brake lines:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/4825411515_bc6ac83252_b.jpg)
I found that switching from buckhorn bars to superbike bars left A LOT of slack in the front brake lines, and the result was looping the line a full circle and a pathetic sponge feel that had the lever pulled all the way to the handlebar and brakes not fully engaged.
Materials:
purchase all the materials from this site:
http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php? (http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?)


Follow the video to make the hoses, it's actually much easier than it seems. Note the ferrules mentioned in the video come with the banjo hose ends, so you do not need to purchase extra ferrules. You can use large plier cutters or tin snips to cut the line, but not a saw blade because it can melt the teflon inner hose.

Practice pulling the outer braid apart for the ferrule on the material. You'll only need to spend an inch or two for practice (remember to put the hose end crimp nut on the line before pulling the outer braid and installing the ferrule, I kept reversing this order ::)) The ferrule is installed correctly if the teflon is uniformly up to the ferrule's inner rim. When threading the crimp nut to the hose end, turn the hose with the crimp nut until hand tight. Finish with a snug wrench turn until the crimp nut is flush with the hose end on the straight banjo bolt, or until only 1-2 threads are exposed on the angled banjo bolts.

Install the angled banjo ends first, these go on the splitter at the master cylinder. Mock them up to the MC and run the hose lengths to the front brake calipers. There should be a comfortable length to allow for steering and suspension movement. Mark where you want to cut (remember to label which side is which!) and install the adjustable straight banjo bolts. DO NOT tighten the straight banjos down completely, just hand tight for now. install the brake lines (with new crush washers) at the MC, and run them to their respective calipers. The reason for the adjustable, hand tightened banjo bolts is because stainless hose is very strong and will not flex like rubber hose. Install them to the calipers and then fully tighten down the hose ends. Torque the banjo bolts, bleed the brakes, and you're done!

Your own setup may be different, with the line splitter located at one of the calipers. My setup has two lines coming from the master cylinder:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4826020954_3ab0afa7ed_b.jpg)
Another free mod is to switch the front and rear brake MC filler covers, assuming they are the same unit, because the rear will be like new given it hasn't been exposed to the elements as the front cover has. Black double sided cloth tape also cleaned up the ugly appearance of the master cylinder reservoir.

-midnightcafe


*Clear coated hose requires the coat to be cut back 3/4" from the end to make room for the banjo bolt:
http://www.anplumbing.com/TURBO_TECH.html (http://www.anplumbing.com/TURBO_TECH.html)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jul 25, 2010, 11:50:47
WOW man that is an awesome tip!!!!!! love the idea of making your own brake lines!!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcmspikes on Jul 26, 2010, 22:50:08
def want to make stainless brake lines.  thanks for showing how to.  now just need to find a newer 14mm master cylinder
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: jay_kent on Jul 26, 2010, 23:00:39
Seeing as how DIY tools are in here this is my valve spring compressor
Being the kind of guy who has various "stuff" laying around and little $$ I didn't want to spend much on a valve spring compressor to work on my Cyl heads. I fabbed this and had the heads apart in less than an hour... Total cost $0

Parts used, 2 thick flat washers the same size as the spring retainer and a piece of round stock.

(http://inlinethumb34.webshots.com/44257/2663536270026369651S425x425Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2663536270026369651DSgLRc)

Cut the round stock to two equal sizes and tack weld to one washer then the other. I then put it in a vice to hold square and finished the welds.

(http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/42319/2564148670026369651S425x425Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2564148670026369651FuwmQw)


Use a C-clamp with the new tool to compress the spring by putting the pivot foot at the threaded portion against the valve face and the tool on the spring retainer, compress and remove the keepers then slowly loosen the C-clamp.


(http://inlinethumb34.webshots.com/3553/2466723290026369651S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2466723290026369651AkErzA)

I've got something similiar, 'cept I used a piece of conduit and cut the windows out of it using a cutoff wheel and a dremel.

Another find for those looking for aluminum tube, flat, channel. At the home depot the weekend while looking for something to put strap carpet into a corner, I was directed to the edging section of the store. (typically near the tiles and windows) and a 1/8" thick approx 1"x1"x 8" piece of aluminum L-channel was 11 bucks. CDN. The same dimension piece except 3 or 4 feet was 15 bucks in the fastener section. Save your dough because even though you might not need that much aluminum now you will later.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Jul 27, 2010, 04:33:24
Shock adjuster tool. Cost about 50cents (maybe less) for a bit of scrap steel and wear and tear on tools....

I sat my ass on the bike last night and it hurt because the bloody shocks i've got for it were wound up to suit a mastodon or humback whale or something.  That pissed me off as i don't have a spring adjuster tool.  I went onto ebay and after exclaiming "How much do they want for that chunk of steel?" i decided to make my own.
Start of with the trusty piece of scrap steel you've been using to build all the stuff on your bike.  I think this stuff is about 3-4mm thick.  On it you need to mark out your rough shape.  The think to keep in mind is most of these tools you'll see have the key (the bit that goes into the hole on the shock) around 135 degrees from the heel (the bit that joins the handle to the inside curve).  That is so the handle will "pull into" the shock and cause it to turn rather than slip out.  I made up a roughly 35mm radius which is about the same as the shock.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/Bastard%20Tourer/DSCF2059.jpg)

No metal jigsaw blade at hand?  Haven't gone and splashed out on a dremel yet?  Never fear.  Drill some small holes (not too close to the radius) along the curve.  Follow this by drilling these out with a bigger diameter so the holes join together.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/Bastard%20Tourer/DSCF2060.jpg)

Cut out the rest roughly with an angle grinder
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/Bastard%20Tourer/DSCF2061.jpg)

finish of with a flap disc, file, bench wheel, whatever you have.  I held down my grinder upside down on the bench and used it like a grinding wheel (but i don't endorse this technique ;) ) to get all the rough edges out.  I ended up having to take a lot more out of the heel to get it right.  Just do a bit then check it, a bit more then check it until it comes out right.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/Bastard%20Tourer/DSCF2062.jpg)

I now have rear suspension instead of a spine breaking system.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Jul 27, 2010, 11:07:59
staffy it would make life a lot easier on you if you had a jig saw and a metal blade!  :D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Jul 27, 2010, 11:09:54
Yeah got the saw but no blade, but ya know, work with what you've got.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocan on Aug 02, 2010, 20:00:57
cough...

you could pick this tool up at any bicycle shop... or ask them to borrow it. i know for a fact we have one at my shop in 31mm, 35mm, and 42mm... and probably many other sizes... those three are the most common. probably cost you about 14 bucks for one depending how much your local shop marks up prices.  ;) ;)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on Aug 02, 2010, 20:02:54
cough...

you could pick this tool up at any bicycle shop... or ask them to borrow it. i know for a fact we have one at my shop in 31mm, 35mm, and 42mm... and probably many other sizes... those three are the most common. probably cost you about 14 bucks for one depending how much your local shop marks up prices.  ;) ;)

you referring to the spanner wrench from above?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Aug 02, 2010, 20:03:49
i also use them to tighten the weird nuts on the fork trees... works better than a pipe wrench!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on Aug 02, 2010, 20:05:31
i also use them to tighten the weird nuts on the fork trees... works better than a pipe wrench!

I found the head of a large iron nail works pretty good as well. Line the head up with the nut, tap the nail tip, and free it goes!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Aug 02, 2010, 20:59:49
I'm sure you can rocan but when you're counting your last $8 to buy veges and bread then making a wrench out of scrap steel is so much more appealing.

I'll keep my ideas to myself next time then.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Aug 03, 2010, 07:17:10
Quote
I'll keep my ideas to myself next time then.

DON'T YOU DARE!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Aug 03, 2010, 13:32:01
I'll keep my ideas to myself next time then.

Do way man, keep'm coming!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on Aug 03, 2010, 13:47:01
I'm sure you can rocan but when you're counting your last $8 to buy veges and bread then making a wrench out of scrap steel is so much more appealing.

I'll keep my ideas to myself next time then.

I understand the appeal of fabricating an alternative to a specialty tool, but when it costs that little and you're worried about affording food, maybe you need to reevaluate motorcycles as a hobby  :-\

I don't mean to offend, I myself have to work 60 hours a week to get by, but when it comes to my bike I buy quality tools that will last a lifetime, or I'll borrow tools that are not cost effective to buy. One can make a list of excuses for the means of getting a job done, but it comes down to either getting the job done right or half assed.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on Aug 03, 2010, 14:43:15
... But if you can make it, and it works just as well, what is the issue? If I can buy it for ten, or make it for five plus have something that works that I made. No brainer...

Not to offend.

Keep it up Paul.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Aug 03, 2010, 14:49:21
yep i made my own as well... hell i make tools all the time! work great and are cheap! plus it beats runningout the the store to spend $
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: sharperdill on Aug 03, 2010, 16:12:34
I thought there was a home made tool thread. Maybe this forum should have one if it doesn't.

I love home made tools.  Good job.  I might make one.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Aug 03, 2010, 19:08:35
Thanks guys.  It seems a few people get the point.  Tools of all varying qualities were built by someone at some point, so why not build em yourself?  They don't have to look pretty to do the job.  Lets look at it another way, i just saved enough money to go out and get a 6-pack of beer with what i didn't spend on something made in a sweat shop factory for roughly the same cost as what it took me to make it.
By the way mignightcafe, anyone who's lost work knows full well that having something like a bike to fettle with whilst trying to overcome said temporary setback is quite often the one thing that'll keep you going.  Thing is, even if i was pulling in a grand a week i'd still have made that thing myself.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on Aug 03, 2010, 19:54:59
Thanks guys.  It seems a few people get the point.  Tools of all varying qualities were built by someone at some point, so why not build em yourself?  They don't have to look pretty to do the job.  Lets look at it another way, i just saved enough money to go out and get a 6-pack of beer with what i didn't spend on something made in a sweat shop factory for roughly the same cost as what it took me to make it.
By the way mignightcafe, anyone who's lost work knows full well that having something like a bike to fettle with whilst trying to overcome said temporary setback is quite often the one thing that'll keep you going.  Thing is, even if i was pulling in a grand a week i'd still have made that thing myself.

Well said, Staffy. I see your point about saving a few bucks while making a tool that does the job 100%, I've done this sort of thing before and agree it's worth the time. Although there are cases where doing so is stupid/dangerous. My friend tried making his own spring compressor for his honda civic when he was switching out the springs, but it broke and sent the spring flying in the grass. I was standing over him when he was doing this and thinking back, that could have messed me pretty badly up if it were to hit me. Obviously his tool failed.

IMO if the tool is affordable and I'll be using it often, I'll buy one built to meet industry standards than risk injury with a homemade one.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocan on Aug 03, 2010, 20:35:49
woops. didnt mean for that to be taken the wrong way....

you must remember that i said you can often BORROW the tool from the shop... for free... buying it was just another thing i said you could do.

if you want to make it, be my guest... just wanted to tell people that they could save some time...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: sharperdill on Aug 04, 2010, 15:57:30
Rocon, borrowing the tool is fine, but having the tool on hand at all times is better.


So is anyone starting a homemade tool thread?? ::) ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Aug 06, 2010, 04:22:30
So is anyone starting a homemade tool thread?? ::) ;D
Sounds like you're volunteering  ;)

If there's not one up and going when i get back home i'll dig up some home made tools and kick off a thread.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on Aug 06, 2010, 08:32:06
There are four or five in this thread.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Aug 16, 2010, 14:48:52

A tip for removing powder coating and anodize at home.

A quick trip to the hardware store to pick up some Red Devil drain cleaner, a bucket and some protective gear of you don't have any. It's basically lye powder and when mixed with cool water will eat both powder coating and anodizing in short order. I don't have a majik ratio to mix, kinda depends on the job your doing and also because I just kinda wing it. Just watch, check your parts every minute or so and you'll know when they're ready to be rinsed. You may need to do some spot scrubbing/sanding to get the last remnants off but it works a treat!

Keep in mind!!!!!
You want to wear gloves, a shop apron and a face shield when you use this crap. It's REALLY aggressive and will burn the shite right outta you, ruin your sneakers and make holes in your skin, gooey and runny. Also the fumes are nasty and will kick your ass if you're dumb enough to take a big sniff or are working in an enclosed area. Don't blame me if you're a doofus and end up looking like a mutant, if that happens perhaps it's an indicator that you're not right for this kinda work and should take up cross stitching or perhaps crochet.  :P
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Aug 16, 2010, 14:50:38
NICE! gasket stripper also works to remove powder
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Aug 16, 2010, 17:57:33
Uh, I hate holes in the skin, unless otherwise purposely intended to be there.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Aug 16, 2010, 18:05:01
Agreed!
Title: Home made tools - part #0006
Post by: bikeboy on Aug 19, 2010, 06:49:21
If there's not one up and going when i get back home i'll dig up some home made tools and kick off a thread.

add this one to the list Staffy:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/misc/steeringStemNut.jpg)

50mm OD socket, shaped with angle grinder/file to fit the (honda) steering stem locknut. Works like a charm.

cheers
ian
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Aug 30, 2010, 20:23:18
You can make a similar looking tool to remove the clutch basket locking nut on a CX500.  I guess there'd be some other hondas that would use a similar clutch locking nut also.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Sep 09, 2010, 18:48:14
How to make cheap cloth covered wires, fuel line etc.....Paracord.

Paracord is pretty nifty looking rope (lots of colors and patterns) and I always have it around for lashing things down. It generally has a nice looking durable woven outer 'sleeve' with a load bearing core. If you work the core out of a cut piece of the stuff you end up with a nice slightly expandable woven sleeve to play with.

You can get it anywhere from 1/8" up to friggin' huge so covering an entire harness could be done.

Some shoestrings can also be used via: http://www.instructables.com/id/Cloth-Covered-Banana-Cables/ (http://www.instructables.com/id/Cloth-Covered-Banana-Cables/)

Title: Re: Honda Radio Shack Rectifier
Post by: chris73cb175 on Sep 27, 2010, 02:59:11
So I test my rectifier and it seems to be bad. I went to Radio Shack and bought the recommended diode for about $4.
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Radio-Shack-276-1185.jpg)

I cut an oem rectifier plug off an old wiring harness:
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Rectifier-Plug-Female.jpg)

Then I pushed the terminals out with a small screwdriver:
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Rectifier-Plug.jpg)

i was planning on using this method for my bike but can't see the pictures any help. hopefully we can get this worked out.

This is the plug disassembled:
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Rectifier-Plug-Assembly.jpg)

The terminals fit perfectly onto the diode terminals:
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Rectifier-Terminals.jpg)

I put plastic terminal protectors on the spades, and added bullet terminals to the other ends. Then some heat shrink wrap from Harbor Frieght. I'll need to cut the plug off the wire harness and put some female ends on so this will plug in to it:
(http://www.350twin.com/Project/1974%5FHonda%5F360/Pictures/Rectifier/600_Rectifier-Finished.jpg)

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Flugtechnik on Oct 14, 2010, 00:26:21
Adding vacuum ports to your CB450
so you can sync the carbs the RIGHT way.

Vacuum ports - $5
5 mm tap - $8

If you want to get your 450 running in top condition, those carbs need to be in sync.  The best way to do that is with a vacuum gauge carb sync tool or a manometer.  But Honda neglected to put any vacuum ports on the 450s.  So, what are you going to do?  Add some.

The boys at DCC whipped up some little vacuum port tubes just for this specific purpose [SEE HERE (http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-streetfighter-custom-motorcycle-carburetor-5mm-vacuum-intake-tuning-port-adaptors-dcc-08-0013-2.html)].  You could make them yourself with some bits from a hardware store, but at that price, why bother.

I've seen some folks drill and tap holes in their cylinder head in the intake manifolds.  This gave me the willys so I found a better place.  The rubber intake mounts actually have a metal base inside them on the forward side so there is some meat there to mount the ports to.  I ground some of the flange off on the bottom of the mount so I could get the hole as close as possible to the fwd side.  I then drilled a hole all the way through and tapped it with a 5 mm tap so the DCC tubes could thread in.  I cleaned up the holes and touched up the mount where I flattened it with some high heat paint.  The DCC vacuum ports come with the threaded tube, o-rings, nuts and rubber caps to seal them off.  Screw those babies on there so the o-ring compresses so you get a good seal and you are done!  Since the holes are in the carb mounts, if you screw them up or they leak or you decide you don't want them, you just have to get some new rubber bits off of ebay instead of trying to fix your cylinder head.


(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/TKpZ2AWxg3I/AAAAAAAAAt0/iyOgKs77Q4E/s640/DSC00224.JPG)

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_-tpnHj70SbA/TKpZ7X5bcEI/AAAAAAAAAt8/LZiEPgUUtoY/s640/DSC00239.JPG)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: sxecafe on Oct 15, 2010, 02:48:20
I made a blast box. It only cost me $50. Here is what I bought (Im sorry for the length of this post):

Rubber Maid Box:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1089.jpg)

Light:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1090.jpg)

Grill to rest the parts on:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1088.jpg)

Plexi:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1091.jpg)

Air Hose:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1092.jpg)

Rubber Hose :

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1093.jpg)

Epoxy:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1094.jpg)

PVC Coupler:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1097.jpg)

Now I cut the holes and put the PVC in for the gloves:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1098.jpg)

I cut the top an inch shorter than the plexiglass so I could epoxy the plexiglass in:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1100.jpg)

I epoxied the glass down and placed bricks on the top to secure it down:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1101.jpg)

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1111.jpg)

Hole for the light:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1109.jpg)

Hooked up the hoses:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1107.jpg)

And from the top down:

(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn180/DIRescue/DSC_1112.jpg)

It works! I mean for a $50 blast box. There was very little media on the floor.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: justahunk on Oct 15, 2010, 11:49:23
I LIKE!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: introvert on Oct 22, 2010, 03:54:18
I see some great ideas here...as someone who is pretty unskilled and doesn't have a lot of knowledge in bike building and repairing or money for that matter, these posts will help me out a lot. Thanks guys...keep up the good work!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: 1911pewpew on Oct 31, 2010, 14:32:50
Cheap paint removal aid:

I'm too broke/cheap to buy stripper so I decided to try a little experiment. I'm sure at some point a lot of folks here have  had a mishap with brake fluid and it's ability to destroy paint. USE IT!

I used some dirty brake fluid from bleedin the truck and wiped it onto the part I was about to take the wire wheel to. Let it stand for about 10 minutes, then rinse off. Wire brush eats through whats left quick like. Not as good as proper stripper(s) but a good way to use up some of the nasty in jug #36. Repeat for primer coat. Reduces wirebrush time by close to 75% I'd say. After words just rinse off the piece and lightly oil if not painting immediately.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: boingk on Nov 09, 2010, 16:46:19
I rigged this up for less than five dollars. Its simply a 10ml syringe attached to a length of 3mm rubber hose that exits onto the rear sprocket. Push the plunger a bit as you go along and oil trickles onto the sprocket and then the chain; repeat every 100km or so.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i233/boingk/XR600/lube.jpg)

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i233/boingk/XR600/lube4.jpg)


Cheap, simple, easy to make. Should make chain lubing a bit easier for the meantime until I get a proper system. I'm thinking of getting a Tutoro chain oiler before I go around, check them out at www.tutorochainoiler.com (http://www.tutorochainoiler.com). They look like a good bit of gear and are quite cheap compared to the big names like Scottoiler... under $50 actually  ;D

Cheers - boingk
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: cowboysculptor on Dec 02, 2010, 22:53:42
Cheap paint removal aid:

I'm too broke/cheap to buy stripper so I decided to try a little experiment. I'm sure at some point a lot of folks here have  had a mishap with brake fluid and it's ability to destroy paint. USE IT!

I used some dirty brake fluid from bleedin the truck and wiped it onto the part I was about to take the wire wheel to. Let it stand for about 10 minutes, then rinse off. Wire brush eats through whats left quick like. Not as good as proper stripper(s) but a good way to use up some of the nasty in jug #36. Repeat for primer coat. Reduces wirebrush time by close to 75% I'd say. After words just rinse off the piece and lightly oil if not painting immediately.

I know that one well. It's the only way to remove paint from plastic, such as from side covers, without harming the plastic.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: RoadRash on Dec 05, 2010, 11:44:13
I know that one well. It's the only way to remove paint from plastic, such as from side covers, without harming the plastic.

Son-of-a............  Wish I had thought of that.  Would've saved me alot of headache, re-finning my side covers, recently!  I shoulda known better.   :(
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: cowboysculptor on Dec 07, 2010, 19:35:15
My favorite product on the U.S. Royal Enfield store page:

http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/potato.html (http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/potato.html#customer-reviews)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tWistedWheelz on Dec 08, 2010, 12:20:25
My favorite product on the U.S. Royal Enfield store page:

http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/potato.html (http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/potato.html#customer-reviews)

It is refreshing to see a company with a good sense of humor!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Tim on Dec 08, 2010, 12:55:01
Yeah but man, their prices!  I just checked out exhaust and saw the same silencer I'm using on my XS.

http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/aftermarket-parts-accessories/exhaust/megaphone-silencer.html (http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/aftermarket-parts-accessories/exhaust/megaphone-silencer.html)

They're asking $150 for it.  I paid that for a pair.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Ethanol on Dec 10, 2010, 11:46:19
Parts/paint cooker!

I am impatient and I hate waitin' so I built this.

Got a brand new 20 year old toaster over from a thrift store for $5 and got this crazy aluminum box from a surplus store for $25. Pulled the  toaster apart and moved everything around. Cut some holes in the box so I could access the controls.

Works great. Turn it to 200 (thermostat still works) put the parts in it and let them cook. It's awesome but man it smells nasty.

Fits a lot of tanks perfectly.



(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l492/ethan-blanco/Picture009.jpg)

(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l492/ethan-blanco/Picture007.jpg?t=1291995942)

(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l492/ethan-blanco/Picture005.jpg?t=1291995860)

(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l492/ethan-blanco/Picture006.jpg)

(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l492/ethan-blanco/Picture003.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 10, 2010, 11:51:45
Parts/paint cooker!

I am impatient and I hate waitin' so I built this.

Got a brand new 20 year old toaster over from a thrift store for $5 and got this crazy aluminum box from a surplus store for $25. Pulled the  toaster apart and moved everything around. Cut some holes in the box so I could access the controls.

Works great. Turn it to 200 (thermostat still works) put the parts in it and let them cook. It's awesome but man it smells nasty.

Fits a lot of tanks perfectly.



(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l492/ethan-blanco/Picture009.jpg)

(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l492/ethan-blanco/Picture007.jpg?t=1291995942)

(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l492/ethan-blanco/Picture005.jpg?t=1291995860)

(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l492/ethan-blanco/Picture006.jpg)

(http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l492/ethan-blanco/Picture003.jpg)

great idea to cure paint man!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: perattzi on Dec 14, 2010, 00:03:43
Well for all the 2 strokers out there I thought I might add my homemade leakdown tester to the list. Basically, the tester allows you to pump a small amount of pressure into your motor and check for any air leaks in your engine. Air leaks=lean mixture, lean mixture=death. Common areas of concern would be the crank seals, intake manifolds and cylinder/heads gaskets. Cases could leak too, but probably less likely (if you torque your case bolts and use quality 3 bond like good boys and girls).

(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee334/perattzi/leakdown_tester.jpg)

What you will need:
1) Low pressure gauge 1-20 psi max, with 1/4" pipe thread adaptor. I ordered mine from McMasterCarr (0-15 psi).
    part #: 4000K681 cost: $9.05
2) Low pressure 'T' pipe fitting w/ 1/4" female threads.
    McMasterCarr part # 4429K251. Cost $6.05 ...can be found at any hardware store.
3) Schraeder air fitting(bicycle tire fitting) with 1/4" male threads.
    McMasterCarr part # 8063K37. Cost $3.82.
4) 2 rubber expansion plugs (the 2 circular metal things in the pic, the metal piece is just a big washer and under it is a 1.5 inch thick piece of rubber
    with a smaller washer on the other side and a bolt that goes through. When you tighten the nut the 2 washers squish the rubber part and makes it
    expand 1/8"). Measure your exhaust outlets port size and then find the correct diameter expansion plug that will expand to provide an airtight seal at the   
    exhaust port. Look in the plumbing dept. I found mine at Ace Hardware. About $4 a piece.
5) 1 PVC elbow per carb...so if you have a twin buy 2. Take your intake manifold to the hardware store and look in the plumbing section for one that is a
    real tight fit in your manifold where the carb would mount. Make sure to BUY ones that don't have any raised letters or markings on them.
    Also make sure to get ones with female threads on the end that sticks OUT of the manifold. Around $2 a piece.
6) Find a threaded brass plug that will thread into the female threads on the PVC elbow, this is just to block off one of the elbows. Cheap dollarish.
7) Find a reducer coupling to connect the other PVC elbow to your 'T' fitting. (I needed 2, 1/2" to 3/8" & 3/8" to 1/4" threads on the 'T'). Also dollarish.
8. Hand operated bicycle pump. You probably have one, if not your neighbor does.
9) Teflon tape and silicone. You probably already have some.
10) bottle of windex

* For the above, materials are not set in stone. You will have to find the correct size plugs to fit you bike. The one I made is for an RD350. However, once you have it made you can simply buy different sized plugs and pvc elbows and adapt it to any bike.

** MY design as far all the reducers and plugs is just what I happened to find that worked on the dimesions of my bike. You may be able to make it less convoluted by avoiding the reducer couplers and whatnot. Also, you could probably use a 3rd rubber expansion plug to plug up the second carb on a twin, but I thought that a solid piece of PVC was better, b/c then I could use the carb hose clamp to get a nice tight fit. Other things could work with some creativity. But as for my materials I sourced them all from McMasterr Carr and Ace...you could get it all from MMC but its better to physically find nice tight fitting PVC elbows.

So the way it works is: First off it's way easier with the motor out of the frame, but not necessary. Remove the exhaust and carbs. torque all your case bolts to spec (alot less than you may think), torque the head bolts, and spark plugs. If you have reeds: use a little of wood like a cut down chop stick or something to prop open the reeds ( I used a couple bolts with electrical tape wrapped around the end so as to not harm the delicate reed valves. I place my pistons so that all the ports were partially open. RD350's have a labyrinth seal in the middle of the crank that will allow air to pass through and fill the other cylinder/crankcase/cage/manifold, so you only have to do the test on one side. Also, I would advise removing the motor covers so you can SEE the crank seals, it may not be necessary on the clutch side, but definitely on the rotor side. I know its a pain in the ass b/c you'll have to retime, but you likely need to anyway  :P. If the clutch side seal is leaking then your bike would be sucking or burning transmission oil, unless you have some fancy fucking 2 stroke with a dry clutch like a TZ or something...and if you do...then you already know how to do all of this!  ;)

Now plug up the exhaust port(s) with the rubber expansion plugs. I applied a little bit of oil to the sides, stuck em in my exhaust ports and cranked those suckers down as far as they would go. Now assemble the inlet schraeder valve, pressure gauge, and PVC elbow to the 'T' fitting like pictured. Use teflon air fitting tape or dope on all the threads. (I later applied silicone to the outside of all the threads to ensure the tester itself would not leak...especially where brass threads into PVC). Same with the other carb plug PVC elbow. I also filled the inside of it solid with silicone to make damn sure it wouldnt leak. Install those into your intake manifolds and tighten them with the hose clamps that hold your carbs on. Now you motor is plugged up, sealed (theoretically :P)

Now, grab your bike pump. Attach the bike pump to the inlet valve and slowly pump it up to 6.5 psi. Try and pull the pump the valve off as quickly as possible after reaching 6.5 psi, do this until you can pull it off without losing any more than .5 psi. So what you want is 6 psi. (if you leave the pump on the valve it will likely leak, mine did) Now watch the gauge, it should hold that 6 psi for at least 6 minutes. Chances are it won't!

So take you windex and spray around the intake manifolds, anywhere one surface touches another, including where the tester seals. Look for any bubbles or foaming. My brand new ones leaked like a damn cive. Also check where the reed blocks, if you have them, mount to the cylinder, check the head, check the base of the cylinders, check around the crankcases, and check the crank seals. If you find obvious leaks such as bubbles or foam, then address that problem and move on. For instance I had take my manifold/cages off and use new gaskets and yamabond then play with the torque specs to get a good seal. i totally rebuilt my motor so I wasn't expecting any other leaks, and didnt find any. Even if you don't find any bubbles with the windex, but the gauge still shows a lose of pressure, just keep at it until you achieve a proper seal. Your mating surfaces may need flattened or maybe you didn't torque something to spec.

But most of these old strokers need new seals at the very least.

A well sealed 2 stroke engine will be much safer, more reliable, and wayyyy easier to tune. Otherwise you'll be trying to jet around your leak problems instead of fixing them.

*Equally important is doing a vaccum test, I have not done mine yet. But basically you use the same exact setup but take the core out of the schraeder valve, hook up a tube that fits over it that is hooked to some sort of vaccuum pump,.....a mitey vac brake bleeder should work perfect and it has a vaccuum gauge on it as well. i don't remember how much vaccum the engine should hold. But google it!
 ;)

So, by all means if you have money to burn...buy the $200+ motion pro tool. Otherwise this will work fine. Have fun!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Ethanol on Dec 14, 2010, 01:56:37
Perattzi that's genius! Good on ya and thanks for sharing!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: perattzi on Dec 14, 2010, 02:44:32
Thank the internet! I just did a bunch of research and copied/adapted to my needs...especially in the cost dept. ....I know leakdown testing is a good idea with 4 strokes too...just not sure what the difference is. I assume you would need a totally different setup for a 4 stroke. Probably would be even easier to build...as you would need a higher pressure gauge, which are easier to find.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hurley209 on Dec 30, 2010, 00:31:25
im gonna try and post up a "Merge your headers on the cheap" post this weekend for those of us who cant drop the 300$ on a brand new pimped out header.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: arcspeedworks on Dec 30, 2010, 01:11:12
im gonna try and post up a "Merge your headers on the cheap" post this weekend for those of us who cant drop the 300$ on a brand new pimped out header.

Yes!!! Please do!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Dirty Dan on Jan 14, 2011, 00:54:58
Yes!!! Please do!

I'm really interested in seeing this too.

Trying to figure out the exhaust for my 350F, I've been looking at MAC but I really want a smaller "shorty" setup, using the 12" emgo mufflers, like these:

(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv22/ridesolo1/baffle001-1.jpg)

I want to just make a short and stubby exhaust system for the bike. If you have some tricks as far as merging the header pipes... LET US KNOW!  ;D

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hurley209 on Jan 14, 2011, 04:35:46
Ok will do this weekend, il try and get something drawn on my pc, I will say though, this merge, being that it is a "budget" merge is not going to be pretty lol, you will most likely wanna wrap it unless your awesome and have a tig welder. But like I said, this is for those of us who cannot afford a "real" merged header and want a solution on an affordable level.

Things you will need:
Welder or friend with welder.
Grinder or metal chop saw.
Vice grip pliers.
Scrap metal (for bracing into position)
2- pieces of exhaust pipe 18" long (or whatever length is available to you, i reccomend having around 3ft give or take just in case) and whatever diameter applies to your headers, from you local  auto parts store usually about 16$ give or take
High heat paint (optional)
 
I RECCOMEND A Y PIPE ADAPTER FOR A BETTER EASIER MERGE, BUT INSTRUCTIONS SHOW MERGE WITHOUT THE Y PIPE.

!!DO NOT FORGET TO MAKE AN OPENING IN THE PIPE YOU ARE MERGING TO FOR THE EXHAUST ON THE MERGING SIDE TO FLOW THROUGH!!
 
when you have all your tack welds holding the shape in place, proceed to finish weld ALL the openings and cuts, and grind to clean a bit.
to seal off openings multiple tack welds will be the best way if you dont have a tig welder, so that you dont burn through the pipe.
 
this method can be used to merge to the "left" or the "right".
just follow the examples and apply it to whichever direction you want your exhaust to point toward. this is made to exit on the right side of the bike.

Ok PICTURES ATTACHED HAVE INSTRUCTIONS IN THEM. CLICK AND ZOOM
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jan 14, 2011, 06:57:57
Just wanted to post that I cleaned my rusty tank last night with "The Works" like I found here. Came out GREAT!
THANKS!!!!
 
Quote

Posted by: Dirty Dan
Trying to figure out the exhaust for my 350F,

Check out my "Lil Sister" thread. I used flared VW tips from JC Whitney super easy and sounds good... The linky is in my sig...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Dirty Dan on Jan 18, 2011, 02:18:05
Ok will do this weekend, il try and get something drawn on my pc, I will say though, this merge, being that it is a "budget" merge is not going to be pretty lol, you will most likely wanna wrap it unless your awesome and have a tig welder. But like I said, this is for those of us who cannot afford a "real" merged header and want a solution on an affordable level.

Things you will need:
Welder or friend with welder.
Grinder or metal chop saw.
Vice grip pliers.
Scrap metal (for bracing into position)
2- pieces of exhaust pipe 18" long (or whatever length is available to you, i reccomend having around 3ft give or take just in case) and whatever diameter applies to your headers, from you local  auto parts store usually about 16$ give or take
High heat paint (optional)


Ok the rest will be added over the weekend this is just a small start.



Come on where's the rest!

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hurley209 on Jan 25, 2011, 01:34:11
alright, i downloaded some software so il be making some drawings for reference and then we'll be good to go, sorry for the delay, just been busy.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hurley209 on Jan 27, 2011, 19:24:56
OK PICTURES ADDED WITH INSTRUCTION FOR THE MERGE.
PG.51
CLICK THEM THEN ZOOM
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hurley209 on Jan 27, 2011, 20:09:25
ok, i believe i posted about all that you need to do a merge. let me know if something is confusing.
again, this is not a pro exhaust build, or high quality super cool header, but it will provide a merge, and not break the bank.
i know someone probably has a way better way of doing this, but this is what i came up with, so please dont be rude if you dont dig it or i missexplained something.

located on pg 51, click the pics and zoom.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Dirty Dan on Feb 05, 2011, 23:58:54
Hey good stuff hurley!

Thanks for the writeup.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: lojax on Feb 11, 2011, 23:33:55
this has got to be one of the greatest threads ever.
Title: FREE Spring Compressor Mod
Post by: HelthInsXpert on Mar 05, 2011, 23:55:09
Today I figured out how to make a rear spring compressor for nothing.
 
I wasted $50 on a spring compressor at Advance Auto and it still didn't work.  So I got to thinking this evening.
 
I took the rear shock, took a sprocket (doesn't really matter the size and I had a few sitting around).
 
You need a door jamb, or pull your truck up close to a wall.  Basically anything close together to sit between. 
 
So I took the sprocket, put the shock through the center hole, slid it through the third coil from the top and put both sides of the sprocket on the balls of my feet.
 
I just pushed with my legs and compressed the springs (just like a seated squat).  As the spring compressed I was able to slide the collar and retainers on.
 
I should have taken some pictures, but you will probably get the idea.  And it's FREE!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on Mar 06, 2011, 06:03:57
So the spring is aimed at your crotch? Dedication.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: bikeboy on Mar 06, 2011, 07:13:05
This is what I did for a spring compressor. Wind it up with a rattle-gun, job's a good 'un


(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/misc/springComp.jpg)


made from scrap I had lying around. Old sprocket and some threaded rod. Spent more on paint  ::)


cheers
ian
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: CrescentSon on Mar 06, 2011, 08:14:43
Yeah, but his is free!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Mar 06, 2011, 12:05:44
So the spring is aimed at your crotch? Dedication.

I'd be worried my foot would slip causing the sprocket to rip you a new one.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: bikeboy on Mar 06, 2011, 17:25:28
Yeah, but his is free!

I'm betting the medical costs aren't  ::)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HelthInsXpert on Mar 07, 2011, 01:22:11
I think if you guys saw how it worked you might have a bit more confidence.  But regardless, it worked for me and I didn't have to spend any money.  And I still have my nuts, so it was a good day. 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hillsy on Mar 07, 2011, 01:25:14
....And I still have my nuts, so it was a good day.....

Here's hoping you don't have any bad days soon  ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: bikeboy on Mar 07, 2011, 02:18:06
And I still have my nuts, so it was a good day. 

any day with your nuts still attached is a good day  ;D


ian
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Mar 08, 2011, 10:13:46
I like the tool you made, and I mean no criticism. If it were mine, I would grind down the teeth on the sprocket part, as my past has demonstrated, if it could happen, it surely will to me!  ::)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: DP9 on May 07, 2011, 21:15:20
Really cheap soda blaster using some clear tubing and some tape.  not sure if its been posted before.  It jams regularly, but works well.  good for small parts.


(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/dpNo9/th_VID_20110507_181707.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/dpNo9/?action=view&current=VID_20110507_181707.mp4)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on May 10, 2011, 15:35:41
So the spring is aimed at your crotch? Dedication.

LOL  ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wingspan on May 11, 2011, 09:52:08
Here's my take on a simple side mount license plate bracket.  I made mine from steel, you could also use aluminum.  Paint it, polish it, drill speed holes, whatever you like.  I don't have a lot of metal working tools at my disposal at home and no welder so this was done with an angle grinder w/cutting wheel, a belt sander, and a drill.  Total cost for my bracket was $5.86 for the piece of steel plus a couple of small bolts.

First make a paper template of the bracket ensuring that you have plenty of clearance for all moving parts:

(http://wingspan.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/1975-Suzuki-T500-Cafe-Project/i-MKvTTvw/0/L/T500-750-L.jpg)

And transferred the shapes to some steel:

(http://wingspan.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/1975-Suzuki-T500-Cafe-Project/i-K7Gcf5k/0/L/T500-751-L.jpg)

A little time with an angle grinder, belt sander and drill press:

(http://wingspan.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/1975-Suzuki-T500-Cafe-Project/i-Qxcg8X9/0/L/T500-752-L.jpg)

Ready for paint:

(http://wingspan.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/1975-Suzuki-T500-Cafe-Project/i-K9RtC8X/0/L/T500-754-L.jpg)

(http://wingspan.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/1975-Suzuki-T500-Cafe-Project/i-XXQH5BG/0/L/T500-753-L.jpg)

You may have noticed that there are two sets of holes in the license plate portion of the mount.  Vertical plates are technically illegal here in Indiana but I see them all the time.  If/when Johnny Law gives me a hard time about it the holes are already there it mount the plate horizontally:

(http://wingspan.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/1975-Suzuki-T500-Cafe-Project/i-kSD8mtM/0/L/T500-755-L.jpg)

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on May 11, 2011, 11:57:44

You may have noticed that there are two sets of holes in the license plate portion of the mount.  Vertical plates are technically illegal here in Indiana but I see them all the time.  If/when Johnny Law gives me a hard time about it the holes are already there it mount the plate horizontally:

(http://wingspan.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/1975-Suzuki-T500-Cafe-Project/i-kSD8mtM/0/L/T500-755-L.jpg)

I'm worried that the plate would deflect at higher speeds. Only reason I'm concerned is that I built my own license plate bracket (speed holes and all). Two weeks ago the whole bracket shook itself loose and flew off (I was going a little fast  ;) )
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/4839654592_8ac03a1f18.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25051009@N06/4839654592/)
a002 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25051009@N06/4839654592/#) by emmeto17 (http://www.flickr.com/people/25051009@N06/), on Flickr
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4928795716_ce7238c8fa.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25051009@N06/4928795716/)
021 edit (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25051009@N06/4928795716/#) by emmeto17 (http://www.flickr.com/people/25051009@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: baconpocket on May 11, 2011, 12:37:05
NOOB style tuck and roll look. 

i went to Joann Fabric or something with my wife and picked up a scrap piece of black vinyl for 4 bucks ~half yard
used black thread that was as thick as we had (general purpose) set the stictch length to about 1.5-2.  then i traced a straight line every  2.75 inches along the back of the vinyl.  then i folded the material and sewed a quarter inch loop at every line until i was across the seat area.(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/217347_990491325505_22401740_47540578_7580257_n.jpg)

i kept checking to see how it fit.  end product with seat shaving and other stuff.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/206564_991023005015_22401740_47551134_7018105_n.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on May 11, 2011, 12:55:01
looks awesome!!! nice work
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wingspan on May 11, 2011, 13:00:21

I'm worried that the plate would deflect at higher speeds. Only reason I'm concerned is that I built my own license plate bracket (speed holes and all). Two weeks ago the whole bracket shook itself loose and flew off (I was going a little fast  ;) )

a002 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25051009@N06/4839654592/#) by emmeto17 (http://www.flickr.com/people/25051009@N06/), on Flickr

021 edit (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25051009@N06/4928795716/#) by emmeto17 (http://www.flickr.com/people/25051009@N06/), on Flickr

I really can't comment too much on your bracket other than to say that the mount portion of yours looks a bit on the small side.  I can say that they're no way the wind will deflect the plate as I have it set now. I've taken care avoid stress risers where ever possible but I'll be keeping my eye on it for signs of vibration damage.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on May 11, 2011, 13:30:28
Why not add a hinge and a spring. Let it deflect at speed and snap back when you're just tooling around...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: baconpocket on May 11, 2011, 14:14:33
^ +1 that's a cool idea
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hillsy on May 11, 2011, 19:43:48
Why not add a hinge and a spring. Let it deflect at speed and snap back when you're just tooling around...

Don't know about where you guys are, but over here that sort of device is highly illegal as it might interfere with the speed cameras taking your pic. The police will rip you a new one  :o
 
And you'd probably get less time for murder from what I've heard  ::)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: bikeboy on May 11, 2011, 20:27:20
NOOB style tuck and roll look.

That's turned out very nicely. Well done.

ian
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: arcspeedworks on Jun 10, 2011, 17:21:14
Here's one I hope hasn't been posted already...

For those of us that own bikes with sketchy pasts (and four pounds of body-filler on our tanks), I've recently discovered a way to strip paint without harming the bondo that lies beneath.

Oven cleaner.  More specifically, 99 cent oven cleaner from the Dollar Tree. Hold your breath, spray it on thick then let it sit for at least 15 minutes. Once it's set, take a 80 grit sanding sponge or block to it and rinse thoroughly with warm water. Prepare to be underwhelmed by the sheer amount of bondo smiling up from your gleaming steel tank.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jun 10, 2011, 18:08:25

Don't know about where you guys are, but over here that sort of device is highly illegal as it might interfere with the speed cameras taking your pic. The police will rip you a new one  :o
 
And you'd probably get less time for murder from what I've heard  ::)

Well we're not talking about something that'll flop over at 20mph....was thinking more significant speed. As well, side mounts are more often than not illegal by the technical letter of the law anyway. Heh.....
Heck, if I ever got pulled over on one of my bikes by a cop who was bored or otherwise turned on I'd be in trouble.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Nortstudio on Jun 30, 2011, 15:05:40
I've been addicted to this thread.  Great job folks. 

The one thing I can add is for CB owners (not sure about other bikes, but I know it's worked for my '76 CB550k).  Seems everyone gets their bike with the trip reset knob missing.  I went ahead and hollowed out the inside of electrical wire connector (you know, those colored plastic nubs with ribs on them that prevent you from getting fried).  Fits on there nicely and now you don't need to use the pliers at every fill up.

Another guy over at SOHC-4 forum added to the idea, using a replacement switch for a lamp.  Also a great idea. 

Go for the electrical connector if you like a little color, the lamp switch if you want to look retro :)

Cost: under $5
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Jul 03, 2011, 23:03:30
Great idea on the trip counter knob, seems so simple I don't know why I never put the two together. "Lamp switch snob or wire nut" - clever!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Jul 18, 2011, 22:50:07
Not so much a mod for the bike but a mod for yo' ass.  I got sick of standing at the bench so I went through the rag bag and dug out a suitable section of old couch that was in there, stuffed foam ($10) under it and stapled that sucker to a scrap piece of timber.  $40 worth of steel and a couple of hours cutting and welding, plus a few squirts of cold galv and "robert's your mother's brother".

Ass comfort whilst tooling around at the bench.

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC03061.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Dirty Dan on Jul 20, 2011, 19:06:21
Needs more motorcycle/car stickers if it's going to be in the shop! :)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Jul 20, 2011, 20:21:39
Needs more motorcycle/car stickers if it's going to be in the shop! :)
A mate said it was "too regal" for the shed, so just to stick it up him I'm gonna shoot it with some black epoxy and go over that with some gold striping care of some hobby paint i've got kicking about.

Nothing like a royal throne in the shed....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Dirty Dan on Jul 20, 2011, 21:26:44
Hahhh! Perfect!

Next time he's over at your place, make sure you're sitting wearing a crown on the stool, beckoning for him to bring you a beer.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Jul 20, 2011, 22:27:39
Hahhh! Perfect!

Next time he's over at your place, make sure you're sitting wearing a crown on the stool, beckoning for him to bring you a beer.

Well he's in another state but I'll be sure to get him a photo of just that.  Maybe I should make a $50 crown too...

Hmmm... idea brewing...  Maybe in the next video.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jul 21, 2011, 22:56:11
You are one funny SOB  8)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Jul 21, 2011, 23:07:48
You are one funny SOB  8)
I aim to please.  My ass has been pretty comfy lately.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tsbigdog on Aug 04, 2011, 23:18:39
Here's a $6 valve spring compressor that I made.  Works great for a twin, not sure about a 4 cylinder.  I apologize if someone already posted something similar on here.  I looked and didn't find one.


From my build:



I had a broken fin on my head so I got another one on epay.  Before i started tearing it down, I needed a spring compressor.  Being that I'm too cheap to buy one for 50 bucks I decided to make one.  I went down to HF and picked up a 6" C-Clamp for about 6 bucks and made this.
 
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/IMAG0200.jpg)
 
I made the end out of some flat stock I had laying around.  I bent an "L" shape into a small piece and then cut another small piece and welded them together.  Then I just welded it to the top jaw of the clamp.  Please excuse my welding (i'm a newbie). 
 
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/IMAG0203.jpg)
 
 
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/IMAG0202.jpg)
 
10 minutes later the head was stripped.
 
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/IMAG0204.jpg)
 
The compressor worked pretty dang well.  I was happily surprised.  It did slip off the last valve which caused everything to go flying across the room, but I have an extra head laying around so it wasn't a big deal.
 
 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: DP9 on Aug 05, 2011, 02:50:53
nice work on that!  if i could weld, Id def make one.  I just use a mallet and socket with a lot a frustration. 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tsbigdog on Aug 05, 2011, 10:29:52
You could try doing the same thing using JBweld.  I don't know how good it would hold up, but for 6 bucks for the clamp and a few dollars for JB Weld it's worth a try.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: RoadRash on Aug 05, 2011, 19:20:27
You'd be better of trying to bend the metal piece into a u-shape and weld JB Weld THAT to the c-clamp.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: 11400MilesAway on Aug 28, 2011, 16:25:09
read all 56 pages and....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Aug 28, 2011, 18:49:38
Instead of JB Weld, drill and tap flat end of clamp to hold 'U' piece on
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: whataulooknat on Aug 29, 2011, 10:55:54
Here's a $6 valve spring compressor that I made.  Works great for a twin, not sure about a 4 cylinder.  I apologize if someone already posted something similar on here.  I looked and didn't find one.


From my build:



I had a broken fin on my head so I got another one on epay.  Before i started tearing it down, I needed a spring compressor.  Being that I'm too cheap to buy one for 50 bucks I decided to make one.  I went down to HF and picked up a 6" C-Clamp for about 6 bucks and made this.
 
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/IMAG0200.jpg)
 
I made the end out of some flat stock I had laying around.  I bent an "L" shape into a small piece and then cut another small piece and welded them together.  Then I just welded it to the top jaw of the clamp.  Please excuse my welding (i'm a newbie). 
 
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/IMAG0203.jpg)
 
 
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/IMAG0202.jpg)
 
10 minutes later the head was stripped.
 
(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/IMAG0204.jpg)
 
The compressor worked pretty dang well.  I was happily surprised.  It did slip off the last valve which caused everything to go flying across the room, but I have an extra head laying around so it wasn't a big deal.

I made something very similar to that with a C Clamp an old socket some jb weld and a penny to press in the Teflon buttons on my pistons.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tsbigdog on Aug 31, 2011, 15:26:08
Quote
I made something very similar to that with a C Clamp an old socket some jb weld and a penny to press in the Teflon buttons on my pistons

Can you post up a picture of it?  Someone might find it useful. 
Hey, maybe we should start a new thread called "Things can you make with a C-Clamp"?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread - Fix your worn out NiCd batteries (Dremel)
Post by: JohnGoFast on Sep 02, 2011, 13:19:37
Have a Dremel battery or any NiCd Battery that just isn't holding a charge anymore?

I followed these steps and mine has worked great for a month now!
 
http://ysuusy.com/easybatteryfix.html (http://ysuusy.com/easybatteryfix.html)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: acm177 on Sep 15, 2011, 13:43:12
Here is a quick stand I made for my 175 with the motobits rearsets. I did see one in use before. So its not an original idea.


Also an idea for a upper fairing cross-member swivel.


Tank strap adjuster. Which is hard to understand from the picture. Its three core pieces.
Its two solid slugs on the sides that were tapped for bolts. and in between a hollow tube with a screw and wingnut.


 >--===|===--<
             W


The tank strap clamp isn't in the picture, but its just some folded metal with a bolt thats drawn toward the tightened screw.


All under $50...
Some of it was bought at mcmastercarr, and some at home depot.

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: shocwav3 on Sep 15, 2011, 17:29:40
nice work on that!  if i could weld, Id def make one.  I just use a mallet and socket with a lot a frustration.

Dan,
 
I cut a small window in the socket and use the 6in C-clamp, works pretty well.
 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: pablohoney on Sep 19, 2011, 19:14:30
Well Here is my $10 mod. Works excellent for cutting down on vibrations.
I wrapped them with this http://www.sportchalet.com/product/301773_3021162.do (http://www.sportchalet.com/product/301773_3021162.do)  before when I would ride my xs650, after 30min my hands would be so tingly and funky. Now I just rode an hour on the bike and it felt better than my cbr600. They absorb all the vibration.

P.S. they also have black if you don't like the white.
(http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww220/El_Dudarino/RockrollDONE6.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Sunflash on Sep 27, 2011, 02:33:48
I will post pictures later but I needed to make theaded inserts to mount my new rearsets to the holes I drilled in the frame (this was all preplanned)  Since the machinists who was willing to do it for free turned out to not have time I had to work it out on my own.  I ended up using 10mm coupling nuts that I turned down on my "redneck lathe".  Since I don't have a lathe I bought a section of 10mm all thread and a 10mm nut ($2.55 total at Alaska prices)  I chucked the all thread up in the drill press used the nut to lock the coupling nut into place on the all thread and voila with the addition of a decent metal file and my drill press becomes a cheap lathe for making threaded inserts out of coupling nuts.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: midnightcafe on Sep 27, 2011, 07:55:37
that's handlebar grip tape for bicycles. I don't see how it would work the way you are using it...


Well Here is my $10 mod. Works excellent for cutting down on vibrations.
I wrapped them with this http://www.sportchalet.com/product/301773_3021162.do (http://www.sportchalet.com/product/301773_3021162.do)  before when I would ride my xs650, after 30min my hands would be so tingly and funky. Now I just rode an hour on the bike and it felt better than my cbr600. They absorb all the vibration.

P.S. they also have black if you don't like the white.
(http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww220/El_Dudarino/RockrollDONE6.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Sep 27, 2011, 12:22:44
man inistead of wrapping that stuff all over your bars (to me it looks a bit weird) get some "stuff" expandable foam and fill the bars with it... works great to eliminate vibrations, i do it on street fighters all the time
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: richsuz on Sep 27, 2011, 12:43:11
or, caulking silicon.  Much more dense than the expanding foam and very cheap!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: 1976cb356 on Sep 28, 2011, 15:12:50
^that sounds like a good idea, If anyone does it please let us know ow it works.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Sep 28, 2011, 15:51:11
If you plug the ends of your bars you can pack playground sand in them to kill vibrations, works like a charm.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Sep 28, 2011, 18:51:38
If you plug the ends of your bars you can pack playground sand in them to kill vibrations, works like a charm.
The trick is to make sure the sand is very dry first, otherwise a few years later they could come apart in your hands.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Sep 28, 2011, 18:59:20
Yup, I baked it in the oven (boy was Ms.Kitty pissed) after stealing it from a playground.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Koëstom on Oct 03, 2011, 11:31:38

Cheap/Easy Resistor To Make LEDs Flash:

We don't need special resistors or flash units to make LED turn signals flash on our vintage bikes.

Add an incandescent bulb inline (one for left and one for right) as a cheap resistor. The single bulb will usually be enough of a resistor to make your front and rear LEDs flash and you can hide the bulb inside your headlight bucket, under the tank, etc...

If light can be seen from it then just wrap it with black electrical tape to hide it. Since it flashes it won't get hot enough to burn out or melt the tape. Just remember to check it and the fuse if your signals stop working.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on Oct 04, 2011, 11:56:17
*peeks down below*  8) That's a great license bracket for under $6! Nice one! is it strong enough to take much abuse on road though? Just curious.. not hating kk  ;)

Hmmm.. here's my first offering to the $50 Mod Gods:
$1 for Skateboard from trash'n'treasure at rubbish tip + $4 for lacquer & $2 for upholstery tacks
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/1skateboardfromtrashntreasure-1.jpg)

Then some cutting, shaping and some lacquer
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/choppingtheboard.jpg)
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/aftersomeshaping.jpg)
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/chechingouttheseatfabric.jpg)
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/bitoflaquer.jpg)

... a lil bit of arts and crafts lol...
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/oldseatfoam.jpg)
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/mytemplate.jpg)
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/glueitdown.jpg)
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/brasstacks.jpg)

...and "whalla!... joost lark dis.. we haf a $7 solo bobber seat" *in mad german scientist voice*
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/heypresto.jpg)

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on Oct 04, 2011, 12:02:12
... and for my next trick....

$3 lucas "type A" light bracket for that vintage homemade look  ;)

a bit of flat alloy from the hardward store...
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/flatalloybarfromhardware.jpg)

a bit of shaping with the grinder and wheel... some buffing.... and bending (used an old exhaust header to get my bends
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/someshapingandpolish.jpg)

Also wlded up the rear end utilizing the stock swing-arm and $10 worth of 7/8 steel pipe... a pipe bender and a grinder to notch the joints
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/weldedrear-1.jpg)

.....to my count.. that's 3 mods on the one bike for $20 AUS  ;)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Oct 04, 2011, 12:10:22
man great ideas!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Koëstom on Oct 04, 2011, 12:18:55

AWESOME!!! Great seat!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Oct 04, 2011, 15:06:41
I'm liking the seat also. Nice work!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: hillsy on Oct 04, 2011, 21:04:32

(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/weldedrear-1.jpg)



I like the seat, but your hardtail has some serious weak points where you've bent the top tubes to meet the swingarm.
 
Knowing you're from Oz and the crap roads we have here, you might want to re-visit that design.
 
Not hatin, just sayin  ;)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on Oct 04, 2011, 22:26:53

I like the seat, but your hardtail has some serious weak points where you've bent the top tubes to meet the swingarm.
 
Knowing you're from Oz and the crap roads we have here, you might want to re-visit that design.
 
Not hatin, just sayin  ;)

LOL... nah.. I just welded it up for the Deus biker build-off last year.. I took a shitty old SR185 and made it into a bobber for under $600 (including the bike)...

(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/deusbuild.jpg)

but yeah.. that wouldn't last 2 hrs here on Oz roads hahaha.... I've since cut the arse off it and I'm grafting a SR250 swingarm rear end on and dropping the front end to make a cafe.. have a nice lil tank for it too  ;)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on Oct 04, 2011, 22:34:51
Latest mod...

making a new build-off bike for this years Deus competition... re-using the rear fender off last years entry "Lil Bastard" (which is a W650 front fender)... so far... cost me a cutting disc and a flap disc ;)

(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/XS750%20Deus%20build-off/j-cut-down-W650-fender.jpg)
(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/XS750%20Deus%20build-off/i-OLD-W650-fender-chopped.jpg)

It will serve as my front fender on the XS750 Cafe I'm building... I'm bending 10mm alloy round for the braces and then flatten the ends out and drill for tabs... so far, materials for front fender has cost me $15 including alloy round bar and brass brackets and S/S bolts and dome nuts... another cheap mod ;)

(http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/OilyRag78/XS750%20Deus%20build-off/k-XS750-front-fender.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on Oct 04, 2011, 23:58:07
man great ideas!!!
Cheers mate! *thumbs up*
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on Oct 05, 2011, 00:00:02
AWESOME!!! Great seat!

I'm liking the seat also. Nice work!

Thanks also guys  :D First time ever for a skateboard bobber seat you reckon? I used the kicktail of the board for the curve of the seat  ;D Cheers again for the kudos! Mucho respecto
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tophat Q on Oct 05, 2011, 16:59:29
Great thread, lot of good ideas here.
 
subscribed.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Oct 05, 2011, 23:18:21
This comes from the auto world but would be $50 or less for most of us.Cheap DIY pro quality paint work.
http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html (http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Sunflash on Oct 06, 2011, 18:00:56
Here are the photos of my "Redneck lathe" including the file and belt I used.  Lots of stops to caliper but way cheaper than paying a machinist.
 
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/Sunflash11B/317774_2465982134880_1412079108_2924839_1106043055_n.jpg)
 
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/Sunflash11B/314670_2465988775046_1412079108_2924844_1789644031_n.jpg)
 
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/Sunflash11B/312737_2465989815072_1412079108_2924845_929778076_n.jpg)
 
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/Sunflash11B/308380_2465990935100_1412079108_2924846_641200383_n.jpg)
 
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/Sunflash11B/301255_2465983174906_1412079108_2924840_2129144863_n.jpg)
 
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/Sunflash11B/299076_2465986614992_1412079108_2924841_1982397982_n.jpg)
 
and the rearsets all mounted up after welding the new inserts to my frame.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/Sunflash11B/297409_2470293042650_1412079108_2929569_369209186_n.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Oct 06, 2011, 18:26:26
not a bad idea man! must have taken forever but hell worked!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Sunflash on Oct 06, 2011, 20:19:35
Not really.  maybe 15 minutes an insert tops once I had it down.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on Oct 06, 2011, 20:53:00
@ Flash.. that is one of the most brilliant tooling ideas I've seen in a long time.. hope you don't mind if I copy that at some point in the near furture? LOL  ;D

what's the saying, "imitation is the ultimate form of flattery"?  ;)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Andreas on Oct 06, 2011, 20:56:35
what is expanding foam? Is that the stuff you use on insulation?
 
man inistead of wrapping that stuff all over your bars (to me it looks a bit weird) get some "stuff" expandable foam and fill the bars with it... works great to eliminate vibrations, i do it on street fighters all the time
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Andreas on Oct 06, 2011, 21:02:05
Love how he ignores the screaming kind. Now THATS a gift. How does it work? What is he using to spray the soda? Is he just stuffing the soda in the tube and conneting it to the compressor?

(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/dpNo9/th_VID_20110507_181707.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/dpNo9/?action=view&current=VID_20110507_181707.mp4)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on Oct 06, 2011, 21:09:49
Love how he ignores the screaming kind. Now THATS a gift. How does it work? What is he using to spray the soda? Is he just stuffing the soda in the tube and conneting it to the compressor?

(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/dpNo9/th_VID_20110507_181707.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/dpNo9/?action=view&current=VID_20110507_181707.mp4)

it's a home made soda blaster.. you take some 1/4" tube... put a little slit about 1 " from the end.. that end slips over your air gun nozzle.. then the other end of tube just goes into bag/box of soda.. the air pressure sucks it up and spits it out... it's not bad.. but a $30 sand blast gun from the auto shop works much better... and then just grab a $5 bag of cement sand from the hardware shop.... best sand blast ever.. and cheap ;)
Title: Re: Home made tools - part #0006
Post by: Andreas on Oct 06, 2011, 21:13:36
Ive used a Shimano BMX Freewheel remover as well.
 
add this one to the list Staffy:
(http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x218/cb900/misc/steeringStemNut.jpg)

50mm OD socket, shaped with angle grinder/file to fit the (honda) steering stem locknut. Works like a charm.

cheers
ian
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: 1976cb356 on Oct 07, 2011, 01:45:03
I cracked up hearing that screaming kid, its like shut the hell up I am making a video...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Oct 07, 2011, 07:10:15
Here are the photos of my "Redneck lathe" including the file and belt I used.  Lots of stops to caliper but way cheaper than paying a machinist.
 

 
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c50/Sunflash11B/312737_2465989815072_1412079108_2924845_929778076_n.jpg)
 

 

Nice one, I've chucked thing up in my bench top drill press to polish them with sand paper and scotch-brite.
Sure looks like you used a wood file though... not flaming, just sayin it might have gone even faster with a file for metals.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Oct 07, 2011, 10:28:16
yes sir... "stuff" is the brand name, it is the same stuff you use for house stuff and cracks and what not
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Oct 07, 2011, 12:26:02
Here's the STUFF.


(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_pYe9Wij7vKY/S-tsWszUowI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/4eYMMsYcKh0/s400/d7b224c9-0cf0-48ee-81e3-18435c231c01_4.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: richsuz on Oct 07, 2011, 12:31:41
I think this stuff is better. The other stuff is not dense enough, too porous.(http://www.caulkyourhome.com/images/prod/main/sil1_kitchen_bath.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Oct 07, 2011, 13:14:43
The porosity is a good thing if you're making a plug for a mold. You will be able to work a better layer of bondo into it.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Oct 07, 2011, 13:18:02
i use "stuff" for all my seat molds! beats florial foam any day!!! super easy to cut and shave works great for glass... and inside the bars to cut vibration :)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Andreas on Oct 07, 2011, 13:38:24
thanks for all the stuff answers guys. Im of to the hardware. Living in oakland, you always need to be specific when asking for the "stuff".
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Sunflash on Oct 07, 2011, 14:45:12

Nice one, I've chucked thing up in my bench top drill press to polish them with sand paper and scotch-brite.
Sure looks like you used a wood file though... not flaming, just sayin it might have gone even faster with a file for metals.

looks can be decieving... that is a hardened tool steel metal cross cut file in two profiles and a rasp designed for use on aluminium on the the other two sections.  The rasp made FAST work of taking down large ammounts once the cross cut had knocked down the sharp corners of the nut.   
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Oct 07, 2011, 21:45:09
i use "stuff" for all my seat molds! beats florial foam any day!!! super easy to cut and shave works great for glass... and inside the bars to cut vibration :)




How does it work to reduce vibes?I have clip ons and I just installed a smaller sprocket so I am getting more vibes thru my bars.I considered steel shot in them since the bars have plugs on one end and bar ends on the other.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Oct 08, 2011, 05:39:34

looks can be decieving... that is a hardened tool steel metal cross cut file in two profiles and a rasp designed for use on aluminium on the the other two sections.  The rasp made FAST work of taking down large ammounts once the cross cut had knocked down the sharp corners of the nut.
Ohhhh... Well then, great job!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Oct 08, 2011, 12:26:47
I knew that.
 I bought one several years ago.
 Doubt it will ever wear out on wood?
 It doesn't like body filer much though  :D
 It's quicker if you knock the edges off nut with bench grinder and make it '12 sided' so closer to round, then, put a stud through drill table slot and use wood block between it and file/drill column to support file (not that I've ever done it  ;) )




How does it work to reduce vibes?I have clip ons and I just installed a smaller sprocket so I am getting more vibes thru my bars.I considered steel shot in them since the bars have plugs on one end and bar ends on the other.


 Anything that changes resonant frequency can work, foam, (low density) silicon, (higher density) Steel or lead (OEM)
 You could Google Mass Damper' and see what comes up?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Oct 08, 2011, 14:11:03
I knew that.
 I bought one several years ago.
 Doubt it will ever wear out on wood?
 It doesn't like body filer much though  :D
 It's quicker if you knock the edges off nut with bench grinder and make it '12 sided' so closer to round, then, put a stud through drill table slot and use wood block between it and file/drill column to support file (not that I've ever done it  ;) )


 Anything that changes resonant frequency can work, foam, (low density) silicon, (higher density) Steel or lead (OEM)
 You could Google Mass Damper' and see what comes up?


Cool.Thanks.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dynamitedave on Nov 02, 2011, 15:08:05
I made a new work bench because I needed a place to rebuild a couple Cb350 engines.  I'm still finishing it up but it's almost done. I like tall work benches so the table top is 45" from the floor.  I bought 16 2x4s, 1 sheet of 7/16" OBS and 1 sheet of white 3/16" pressed hardwood for the top. Cost was just under $50.  White allows light to bounce off increasing visibility. I interlocked the pieces and nailed them with my nail gun.  It would be nearly impossible to make a table like this without a nail gun.  It's super strong and holds some of my stuff that has just been floating around.

(http://www.dynamitedave.com/dcsportbikes/workbench21.JPG)

(http://www.dynamitedave.com/dcsportbikes/workbench22.JPG)

(http://www.dynamitedave.com/dcsportbikes/workbench23.JPG)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Nov 02, 2011, 15:21:04
I hope this isn't a repost.I don't remember seeing them.Both of these benches should come in under $50.Not really a mod but ya gotta start building somewhere.

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-make-a-fold-down-workbench/index.html

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20xl.html
Title: $20 deathboard
Post by: Swagger on Nov 02, 2011, 17:18:39
Ok here's one for you on the cheap.
I have four of these here, I use them for moving 'the legless', if I've pulled the wheels or suspension off a bike and need to set it aside I use one of these. It's a random piece of plywood 3/4" roughly 48"x18" with a 48" long hunk of 2x12 screwed to the bottom for a little extra rigidity. The wheels were salvaged from a defunct rolling shop stool, cheapos from the local autoparts stores are just fine.
In total and build from fresh materials nad new casters you could build this for 15-20 bucks. They are most handy for toting that semi-stripped chassis around.

They are not however good as skateboards unless your goal is a concussion and possibly a broken ass. Just a little FYI
Title: Re: $20 deathboard
Post by: Rocker on Nov 02, 2011, 20:29:46
They are not however good as skateboards unless your goal is a concussion and possibly a broken ass. Just a little FYI

... hahahaha.... that made me laugh.. thanks Swag.. I really needed a laugh :) Cheers  ;D

p.s. the dolly set-up is the way to go... use it myself... except our castors are dearer here  ???
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Nov 02, 2011, 20:36:29
Glad to help mate!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Nov 30, 2011, 20:58:45
I thought I would throw this in here as well.

Sturdy Shelves around $30.
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Hands-On-How-To/Cheap-Easy-Storage-Shelves.aspx?newsletter=1&utm_content=11.30.11+DIY&utm_campaign=DIY&utm_source=iPost&utm_medium=email
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JohnGoFast on Dec 02, 2011, 18:25:06
There was a comment on that one from a guy that used some old closet doors to make a shelf. It's not too hard to find old doors that people are throwing out, but don't want to try and dispose of. I often see them on my local classifieds website for dirt cheap or in the free section. I picked up 14 solid oak doors last summer from someone that was updating their house and they were free, they made great kitchen counter tops and 2 workbenches, the only costs were gas (4$), screws ($30), and of course time (priceless).
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Dec 03, 2011, 12:40:54
... they also make good beer pong tables  ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Dec 04, 2011, 07:29:36
This wasn't intended to be specifically for the shed but the missus hates it so it'll become a garage creeper eventually.  It was supposed to be a guitar stool, but I guess I'll have to buy a new one then right?

Cost:
One grinding disc, one welding rod, some burnt hairs on the left leg.

Materials:
One old chair from the side of the road, some material salvaged off a couch I threw out some time ago.

Take old chair

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04053.jpg)

Mark out where to cut off the pivot and cut that sucker off

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04071.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04074.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04166.jpg)

Remove the material from the seat base

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04167.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04168.jpg)

Mark out a circle and cut out the timber base

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04170.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04171.jpg)

Do the same with the foam

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04172.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04173.jpg)

Cut off some bits to use as brackets and weld them on

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04175.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04176.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04177.jpg)

Trim the base with the old couch material

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04178.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04179.jpg)

Drilled and countersunk with the old dressing material fitted

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04180.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04181.jpg)

Bring it inside and have the other half tell you she thinks it's nice but you should keep it in the shed....

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc38/staffyishere/DSC04185.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Dec 04, 2011, 08:30:39
Nice one Staffy. I have an old computer chair I was thinking of doing the same with, this will give me the guidance, thanks.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: RoadRash on Dec 04, 2011, 10:30:27
Did the exact same thing with an old chair someone was throwing away.  Works great when working along side the bike.  Two notes of caution, though, based on my experience with THIS chair:  1 - If it is the kind that tilts back by hitting a lever, DISARM THAT LEVER!, and 2 - Make sure you pick it up from the trash heap with gloves on.  THE PREVIOUS OWNER MAY HAVE BEEN A HABITUAL NOSE-PICKER WHO LIKE TO WIPE HIS FINGERS UNDER THE CHAIR!!!

  That last one STILL tries to give me the dry heaves!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: vtwin650 on Dec 05, 2011, 17:22:21
Okay, I needed a tail light and decided to make one with parts I had on hand - only cost "would" have been paint, but I had that too! 

tore down old brake light - so that I could use the bulb socket, and tore apart the turn signal.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h324/ashtonwhitley/brakea.jpg)
used a threaded hollow bolt to pass the wires thru - even the little bracket with 3 holes, was stolen from the old brake light assembly - and used some Red plastic spray paint to paint the lens.
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h324/ashtonwhitley/brakec.jpg)
Wired up
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h324/ashtonwhitley/braked.jpg)
bolted up
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h324/ashtonwhitley/brakef.jpg)
Lit Up!!!
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h324/ashtonwhitley/brakeh.jpg)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h324/ashtonwhitley/brakej.jpg)

Looks a lot better in person, not too happy with how it looks in the photo, but up close you would not know that the plastic has been painted, and when lit - it looks very cool.

Also made a cool little Neutral Light and installed it in its proper spot
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h324/ashtonwhitley/nuetrallightb.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 05, 2011, 17:26:09
looks great man! i have also done the same and swapped to LED sockets. turn sigs make awesome tail lights!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: jay_kent on Dec 05, 2011, 21:57:09
That's cool, would never have thought about that. mostly those signals just hang out in a box. I think the bobber project will get that treatment.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 06, 2011, 11:53:52
I used Harley signals all the time cause you can get red lenses super cheap and the front turn sigs are alreayd duel filament

brat wing (stock HD turn sig coated and red lense)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/150592_483778883072_594008072_5792368_7625974_n.jpg[\img][img]https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.483778308072.261869.594008072&type=1#!/photo.php?fbid=10150215905818073&set=a.483778308072.261869.594008072&type=3&theater)

ran duel Hd turn sigs coated on my cafe
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/12947_177961428072_594008072_2820347_2470309_n.jpg)

the KZ house hoper got a vinitage HD turn sig with visor all coated
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/296575_10150285385468073_594008072_7837588_3434267_n.jpg)

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/293671_10150285385408073_594008072_7837585_6460684_n.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Dec 06, 2011, 17:36:07
Sweet!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hot Rod Troy on Dec 06, 2011, 19:02:27
Now that's recycling.  Great idea.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 06, 2011, 19:18:49
Joe, what did you use to paint the lenses? I've messed with thinned lacquer and 'stained glass' paint.....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 06, 2011, 19:25:27
all of them are red lenases that can be purchased really cheap... i think years ago we may have died the one on the KZ, i am not sure if i mixed trans red in with clear and then shot it with the air brush or if we actually died it... let me shot my bro an email and ask... we may have just bought it cheap as well. ill get bakc to you
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 06, 2011, 19:41:01
ahhhhh!!!! i remember!!!! my bro and dad run an opitcal clinic, as i have brought up... my bro took the lense to his store and used the tint unit they use for lenses to tint it red! i knew i remembered doing something... but to be honest swag you can get basicly any lense in red now
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 06, 2011, 19:52:54
... but to be honest swag you can get basicly any lense in red now

You wouldn't happen to have a link or source for those lenses would you?
I'd rather they were cast red rather than painted. The tinting is interesting but a whole lens is moreso....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Dec 07, 2011, 03:54:47
I remember back in the day when my folks were doing a resto on their Alfa Romeo 105 Berlina they got their hands on some dedicated lens tint to bring the lenses back to their former glory.  They had both amber and red for the lenses.  Where, what and how much is beyond me but I know that it is out there.  It looked shit hot when done too.  Just like a bought one.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 07, 2011, 14:11:42
Ok now i gotta dig thru the intertoobs.....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 07, 2011, 14:13:43
what ones bud? for the HD ones?
here is a good link for the new and old turn signal lenses...
http://www.customdynamics.com/harley.htm
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 07, 2011, 16:03:41
Well, in my case I've got a honda and yamaha both that I'd like red lenses for....I'll have to look into it. Thanks Joe
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Dec 07, 2011, 16:05:05
well send me a pic of your lamps i got a box of turns i can look in for you, if i have one that matches i can have my brother take it to his office and drop it in the tint unit to make it red for ya... we can make this happen
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 07, 2011, 16:32:15
PM inbound sir.....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: veloracermike on Dec 09, 2011, 14:09:01
Ha!  :D

Oxalic Acid is also available in powdered form at any grocery store.  I buy "Barkeepers Friend" in a goldish can in the cleaners isle.  I use it to clean my stainless brewing equipment and pots, as well as my sink!

I've never tried it on chrome.  The BKF does have an abrasive in it, but as long as you don't rub it on the part, it shouldn't scratch it.

I think a can is like $1.50.

This stuff rocks, Thanks for the TIP!!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: bikeboy on Dec 12, 2011, 04:08:31
Well, in my case I've got a honda and yamaha both that I'd like red lenses for....I'll have to look into it. Thanks Joe

how's this swag?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-NOS-OEM-Rear-Red-Turn-Signal-Lenses-CT70-90-CB350-CB450-CB550-CB750-/370568137758?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5647950c1e#ht_500wt_1202 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-NOS-OEM-Rear-Red-Turn-Signal-Lenses-CT70-90-CB350-CB450-CB550-CB750-/370568137758?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5647950c1e#ht_500wt_1202)

(http://www.ianfox.net.au/forumPix/misc/redLenses.JPG)

ian
Title: $30.00 To Clean Inside Of Gas Tank ....................
Post by: GLENNWOOD55CAMEO on Dec 15, 2011, 20:05:02
I recently read here or on another site of a way to clean rust from within a gas tank for $30.00 and does not require coating. It is very simple to the point of being unbelievable but it WORKS!!!! First buy a large box of 1" long sheetrock screws, $20.00. Then buy 4 gal's of white vinegar from the grocery store, $10.00. Then simply insert all the sheetrock screws into the tank, close the cap and shake the hell out of it by hand. I shook it on and off for a day. Every time I walked past it I would shake it. This process knocks off all the loose rust within the tank. I removed the screws. Then simply filled the talk to the brim with vinegar and closed the cap.  I let it set for two days. I then poured out all but approx. 1/2 gallon of vinegar. I then added the sheetrock screws again and shook the hell out of it again. Removed the screws again and refilled the tank with the same used vinegar. Let it set another day. Drained the vinegar out and flushed the tank out with a water hose. After flushing it out, I immediately pourd gas into the tank and sloshed it around good to evoraprate the water left in the tank and to keep it from flash rusting. It was that simple. It took it down to bare matal......... Mine looked so good after that I didn't even have to Kreem it inside.  Wish I'd have taken before pics.......................
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: stroker crazy on Dec 15, 2011, 20:25:18
glennwood55cameo - now the bad news.

Petrol is hydrophilic, it absorbs water from the atmosphere. Left standing some of the water separates out and settles to the bottom of the tank where it can participate in rusting bare metal, especially when it has a multitude of scratches left by the screws.  Coating the inside of the tank is always good in the longer term.

Crazy
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: GLENNWOOD55CAMEO on Dec 15, 2011, 20:34:44
I agree 100% it would be best to coat it but I'm going to see how it goes leaving it bare as an experiment to see exactly if and how much it will rust when left bare. I can always coat it at any point should it start showing signs of excessive rusting in the future..........
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 15, 2011, 21:11:17
Good way to go about it Glenn. The only time you would have an issue with the bottom rusting out from hygroscopic separation is if you let is sit with a partial tank of gas for a long time.
At least that's my experience, I do drain the tank and float bowls when I park'm for a long period...most of the time (grumble).....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Dec 16, 2011, 01:46:07
I can vouch for the white vinegar working.I use it all the time.I have never done a tank tho.I don't see a need for the screws to break up the rust.The tank should be filled as full as possible with the vinegar and left to sit.After 24 hours,rotate the tank to get complete coverage,and let sit another 24 hours.Then rinse and dry the tank.If there's still rust inside,repeat.Really bad pitted rust will need something stronger.

I have also heard of using citric acid.It's cheaper than vinegar and some what faster acting.It takes roughly two cups of citirc acid powder for a five gallon tank.Then fill with warm water,shake to mix the citric acid,let stand for 12 hours,shake again,flip the tank,and let it sit for another 12 hours.Finish up with a good hard 3 to 5 minute shake,pour out,rinse,and dry.I don't know how this will affect paint if it sits on it,but it running over or dripping on the paint should hurt it.Of course,you'll want to wipe the tank outside after the solution is poured out.

I use a cheapo Harbor Freight heat gun to dry out my tanks.I set it on the low setting and it's still about 300*F.I just aim it at the fill hole and let it blow into the tank from about 12 to 18 inches away.So far it has worked.One day I'll luck out and burn the paint off one of my tanks.I guess that'll give me a reason to change paints schemes.Never do this on a tank that has had fuel in it and hasn't been properly cleaned out.Most heat guns have a thermostat inside that sparks when it turns the heating element(s) on and off to regulate temp.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: GLENNWOOD55CAMEO on Dec 16, 2011, 17:24:51
I can vouch for the white vinegar working.I use it all the time.I have never done a tank tho.I don't see a need for the screws to break up the rust.
Hi ben, I think that the screws are vital to a good outcome. They seem to break up all the loose rust scale in the tank to allow the vinegar to do a better job. I have done it both ways, with and without the screws. The best outcome is achieved WITH the screws. Here is a pic of the huge pile of finely powered rust dust that came out when I emptyed the screws out..................The other pic is a tank I am currently soaking with vinegar. I will post the after pic when its done..........
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Dec 17, 2011, 02:10:57
I see your point there.I haven't had any really bad tanks to do but I am about to start on two.They are so thin in spots that I can push holes through the side with my thumb nail.I hope I can save them.Lets keep the back and forth going on this.I have a feeling I am about to learn something.  ;)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: SlowRoad on Dec 17, 2011, 02:36:25
Joe, what did you use to paint the lenses? I've messed with thinned lacquer and 'stained glass' paint.....

I have heard of folks using red tinted model car clear coat on the inside of the lenses with good results.  YMMV
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 17, 2011, 02:56:40
Worth looking into, thanks.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: GLENNWOOD55CAMEO on Dec 17, 2011, 10:04:58
I posted an after pic, on this page, located several post back, of the tank I was cleaning out with vinegar. It really works!!!!!!!!!!!! Check out the before and after pics....................
Title: Spring Compressor
Post by: HerrDeacon on Dec 17, 2011, 11:12:45
Big thanks to a friend over on hondatwins.net (http://www.hondatwins.net) for the idea to make your own spring compressor. Costs less than $10 to make.

Materials:

(http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/HerrDeacon/MyBike/MB5/Project/springCompressor_1.jpg)

Trick with cutting allthread is to put a nut on either side of the cut line prior to cutting. Then you just remove the nuts to help clean up the theads.
(http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/HerrDeacon/MyBike/MB5/Project/springCompressor_2.jpg)

All parts cut and drilled. I later drilled an additional hole in each bar to help with the fit.
(http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/HerrDeacon/MyBike/MB5/Project/springCompressor_3.jpg)

All setup and ready to work.
(http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/HerrDeacon/MyBike/MB5/Project/springCompressor_4.jpg)

All done until time to rebuild.
(http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/HerrDeacon/MyBike/MB5/Project/springCompressor_6.jpg)

Nice thing about it is it packs up neatly  :)
(http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/HerrDeacon/MyBike/MB5/Project/springCompressor_5.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Dec 17, 2011, 14:14:08
I tried the same thing with little success... but didn't think to triangulate it... BRILLIANT!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Dec 17, 2011, 18:02:56
Yep, the triangulation is key to this one.  It'll be a lot safer than some other methods that way. Well done.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ryanbfast on Dec 17, 2011, 20:28:45
This comes from the auto world but would be $50 or less for most of us.Cheap DIY pro quality paint work.
http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html (http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html)

wow thats guys car came out amazing
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Dec 17, 2011, 21:17:38
wow thats guys car came out amazing

And the paint has held up way better than anyone thought it would.However,it is an ass load of work on a car.Only half an ass load of work on a bike.LOL
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Dec 17, 2011, 21:22:34
And the paint has held up way better than anyone thought it would.However,it is an ass load of work on a car.Only half an ass load of work on a bike.LOL

I painted my 240sx a few years back the same way. It is a lot of work if you want good results, but I'd definitely do it again. Came out great and held up fine.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Dec 17, 2011, 21:35:53
I painted my 240sx a few years back the same way. It is a lot of work if you want good results, but I'd definitely do it again. Came out great and held up fine.

How long did it take you?Some guys takes weeks to get it looking good.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Dec 17, 2011, 22:01:15
Was months for me, did it over one winter. I could have done it quicker but I basically took my time and did it panel by panel. I used to wet sand after every second coat to ensure smoothness.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Dec 18, 2011, 06:01:18
That paint idea looks great.  I think I'll be doing my bike that way.

I followed a link to a Mopar forum from that link up above and came across 20+ pages talking about paint with a roller.  I'm sold.

Here's the link: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Dec 18, 2011, 08:25:48
That's the site that got me on to it and used as a guide.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Dec 18, 2011, 20:38:29
Those mopar boys are broke when they get the car to the paint stage, so they had to come up with something cheap to get paint on there.  ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Garage Rat on Dec 18, 2011, 23:22:56
Tell me about it... You can buy a crate 350 for like $1500. Thats like the carbs alone for a six pack!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocan on Dec 19, 2011, 00:07:37
That paint idea looks great.  I think I'll be doing my bike that way.

I followed a link to a Mopar forum from that link up above and came across 20+ pages talking about paint with a roller.  I'm sold.

Here's the link: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1


NO. FUCKING. WAY.

Guess I DO have a budget to paint my mini this summer :D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Dec 19, 2011, 15:01:26
I painted my autocross toy (now languishing in the back lot ) the same way. Took a couple weeks to get the basecoat down evenly and smooth but it looked pretty effing outstanding. Never got around the painting the graphics that I wanted, just quick and dirty vinyl but it worked out well. Unfortunately I didn't take care of it and it now looks like dogshit. I will repaint it that way again...won't be a heartbreaker if I wall it....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: metropolitanhighrise on Dec 26, 2011, 01:10:34
Electrolytic Rust Removal

I love this!  It takes forever, but works well and you only remove the rust.

What you need:

Old battery charger (I have been told you need one that will spark when the ends meet)
Bucket (or something that will hold as much water as you need)
The water
Metal rod
Small clamp
Wire
Washing Soda
A rusty part

I took a five gallon bucket and placed a 1x piece of wood on top with a hole cut in it.  Fill bucket most of the way up with a half cup or so of washing soda.  I found Arm & Hammer washing soda at Walmart.  I don't shop at Walmart, but no one else had it...  Supposedly you can use baking soda, but it doesn't work as well.  I clamped a steel rod to the inside of the bucket just off the bottom with a small clamp.  I hang my parts from the 1x with the wire.  I used copper electrical wired because it is on hand.  Connect the negative terminal to the wire on the part and the positive to the metal rod.  Turn on the power and sit back!  You should see bubbles within minutes and then a black layer of rust will form on top of the water.  All the rust should end up on the rod! 

Oh yea, turn the charger off before you touch anything!  I'm not sure what all parts will give you a shock and I'm not willing to find out for you guys...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcmspikes on Dec 27, 2011, 21:22:42
i did this to my tank and it worked well. i did it overnight and then cleaned off the rust on the rod and set up it up again overnight.   i recommend it
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Dec 27, 2011, 21:36:51
I've never had good luck with it.The rod builds up with rust crust so fast that it has to be cleaned every hour or two.Takes a long time.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: gpfaster on Jan 09, 2012, 20:52:54
SIX DOLLAR shorty velocity stacks...

Just cause I wanted to see if it would work.. I went a bought two of these at the thrift shop,

(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb441/montessa172/P1090511.jpg)

total cost 2.89 each.  Bring a magnet and make sure it doesn't stick, these are silver plated brass..
Take your newly purchased cup, chalice, champagne flute thing home and cut the bottom off as such

(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb441/montessa172/P1090512.jpg)

Next, measure the carb that you will be enhancing and get the diameter of the filter side of the carb..  mine was 2.160, measure the thickness of the material of your cup, mine was .040 and then do some math.. 2.160 and .040*2 (theres two sides of the cup) and I got 2.240 and then I took off ten just to make sure i didn't cut too big.  Slide your vernier calipers down the cup from the narrowest part of the taper to the rim until you reach the portion that is your measured amount and mark it..
Next mount your cup in your nearest drill press.. Like so..

(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb441/montessa172/P1090513.jpg)

Fire it up and hold your chosen cutting device on your mark and cut the top off of the cup.  I used the edge of a flat file, and seeing the the base metal was brass it made short work of it...
And my finished product, all I have left to do is pick up 3 very fine thread set screws, drill and tap the cup and drill 3 dimples in the lip of the carb for the set screw to seat into... Some locktite and the finished product will look like this..

(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb441/montessa172/P1090515.jpg)

(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb441/montessa172/P1090514.jpg)

I need to shop around a bit more and see if I can find some that are a little taller.....

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcmspikes on Jan 09, 2012, 20:59:49
damn thats pretty good.  with some luck you could find some with a more preferable shape.  you going to put any screen on those?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: gpfaster on Jan 09, 2012, 21:05:11
Yep, cause they are brass i'll just solder some metal screen on the inside - 2 pieces and sandwich some foam in between, I didn't have my verniers with me so I had to use my eyecrometer when I was shopping and these cups were a little small evidently, but proof of concept :)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Jan 10, 2012, 00:09:25
Yep, cause they are brass i'll just solder some metal screen on the inside - 2 pieces and sandwich some foam in between,
Neat idea, only thing I see wrong is your concept of a filter

 For example,
2" Black Open Screen Vent, tab style
1.846 si nfa (square inches of net free ventilation area)

 https://ventmastersstore.com/shop/2-round-open-screen-vent-tab-style-black-p-247.html

Your reducing flow to about half of what carb is capable of, good way to loose a lot of power
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Jan 10, 2012, 00:55:26
It also looks like you got sum purdy finger symbols.Come on over fur some knee slapping good times.I'll maw to tune up ma banjo and we'll have us a blow out country style.I'll even invite Bubba over with his wood box bass.  ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Jan 10, 2012, 10:25:58
Nice and original. Took a bit of work I am sure. I would skip the foam and just do the screens. Bet it looks real good polished up too.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: drøn on Jan 19, 2012, 08:46:19
regarding turnn signal to rear light conversions: can you paint an orange lens red or does it have to be white/clear?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on Jan 19, 2012, 10:10:11
SIX DOLLAR shorty velocity stacks...
[pic]
Just cause I wanted to see if it would work.. I went a bought two of these at the thrift shop,
[pic]
total cost 2.89 each.  Bring a magnet and make sure it doesn't stick, these are silver plated brass..
Take your newly purchased cup, chalice, champagne flute thing home and cut the bottom off as such
[pic]
Next, measure the carb that you will be enhancing and get the diameter of the filter side of the carb..  mine was 2.160, measure the thickness of the material of your cup, mine was .040 and then do some math.. 2.160 and .040*2 (theres two sides of the cup) and I got 2.240 and then I took off ten just to make sure i didn't cut too big.  Slide your vernier calipers down the cup from the narrowest part of the taper to the rim until you reach the portion that is your measured amount and mark it..
Next mount your cup in your nearest drill press.. Like so..
[pic]
Fire it up and hold your chosen cutting device on your mark and cut the top off of the cup.  I used the edge of a flat file, and seeing the the base metal was brass it made short work of it...
And my finished product, all I have left to do is pick up 3 very fine thread set screws, drill and tap the cup and drill 3 dimples in the lip of the carb for the set screw to seat into... Some locktite and the finished product will look like this..

(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb441/montessa172/P1090515.jpg)
I need to shop around a bit more and see if I can find some that are a little taller.....

You, my dear sir, are a genius and scholar! Nice ingenuity I must say! my favorite mod in a long time! :)
.. everything making a home-built cafe is all about.. making cool shit from old cheap shit ;) Awesome.
Title: $50 mod thread
Post by: gpfaster on Jan 19, 2012, 11:12:26
Thanks!  They got better, 3 bucks for two small kitchen strainers from the dollar store, cut soldered to mount.  They might rust, they're cheap cheap stainless but then i'll paint them.  Total cost 9 bucks.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/4ac6099e-32a9-796d.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: MBS-HondaGuy4Life on Jan 19, 2012, 12:27:12
Looks awesome!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jan 19, 2012, 13:03:51
(http://affordablehousinginstitute.org/blogs/us/wp-content/uploads/guinness_brilliant.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Jan 19, 2012, 16:28:22
Thanks!  They got better, 3 bucks for two small kitchen strainers from the dollar store, cut soldered to mount.  They might rust, they're cheap cheap stainless but then i'll paint them.  Total cost 9 bucks.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/4ac6099e-32a9-796d.jpg)

That is the shat right there.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Rocker on Jan 19, 2012, 20:39:35
Thanks!  They got better, 3 bucks for two small kitchen strainers from the dollar store, cut soldered to mount.  They might rust, they're cheap cheap stainless but then i'll paint them.  Total cost 9 bucks.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/4ac6099e-32a9-796d.jpg)
... I'd almost consider that porn  ;D Is it morally acceptable to have intimate feelings for a velo-stack? and for all the trolls that take everything litterally... yes, that was a joke.  ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Jan 19, 2012, 21:42:48
Tea strainer is a good idea, gives a lot more surface area so shouldn't restrict flow
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcmspikes on Jan 20, 2012, 11:54:48
Thanks!  They got better, 3 bucks for two small kitchen strainers from the dollar store, cut soldered to mount.  They might rust, they're cheap cheap stainless but then i'll paint them.  Total cost 9 bucks.



yeah that looks pro.   well done
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: TonUp on Jan 20, 2012, 15:33:18
The next wedding reception I go to is going to be short 4 chalices, or whatever those goblets are called..

Brilliant!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: blkgsx90 on Jan 21, 2012, 15:29:25
Great thread! A lot of good ideas and awesome ways to save money! I need to come up with a mod under $50!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: drøn on Jan 23, 2012, 09:11:27
Somebody turned the page so I'll ask again. Can you paint an amber lens transparent red or de you have to start with a clear/white one?
Thanks
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: SlowRoad on Jan 23, 2012, 09:52:03
I have been told that you can paint the inside of an amber lens with Testors model red clear coat and it works well.  I haven't done it myself, but several on VRCC have done it while converting turn signals to running/brake lights and say it works well.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 23, 2012, 12:03:59
yes you can shoot them in transpearant orange and clear on the amber lenses as well... another option is to take them to a eyeglass store that does their own tinting and repairs, they can dye them for you. that is how i do mine, my brother has a huge tint maching at his stores
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: drøn on Jan 23, 2012, 13:40:16
Thank you both. My concern was that red on top of amber was going to be to dark, but I guess that's not the case.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 23, 2012, 13:41:04
just thin out the trans red.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jan 23, 2012, 15:32:26
After reading up a bit, it appears you can dye them at home as well.
The bit I read (and can no longer find) spec'd RIT dye, but be warned RIT is vegitable dye and will bleach out over time. However, go to a craft store or a fabric store and you can get 'real' dye that's got all the good noxious chemicals in it that will hold up better over time.
Which reminded me that we used to dye a lot of our parts for the RC cars....

The trick is to mix your dye about twice as strong if mixed with water. To that solution add a good portion of iodized table salt. Looks like if you are mixing 2 quarts of dye around a cup of salt is a good starting point. The salt aids in  penetration.
Scuff your lens with GREY scotchbright (not very course) of clean 000 steel wool until it looks just vaguely dull and drop in your boiling dye. Don't want to boil too hard, just enough to agitate it, let'r go for an half an hour or so keeping the level topped off with more water as needed.

Rinse it off and see it's to your liking, if you want darker let it go for more time.
Once you get it dark enough, rinse in water then drop into a container of white vinegar, we did that to 'seal' the part. This last bit is something we did, but I can't remember where I heard it so take it on advisement.

Last bit....a little clear urethane and you should be ready to go!
I'm going to give it a try soon to be certain it works on lenses but if you try, post up your results.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 24, 2012, 17:24:48
i redid how the index is set up... if i am missing anything please let me know... should  be much easier to read/follow now!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Jan 24, 2012, 20:10:55
Joe, instead of having links to the actual page the Mod is on, you can have the link go directly to the actual post. Each post in a thread has its own URL per se (message number parameter).

As an example, instead of this link to your bike table mod:

Bike table -JRK5892-
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.45

It would be:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg56855#msg56855 or even just,  Bike table - JRK5892 (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg56855#msg56855)

which will bring you directly to the correct page and jump you down to the specific post. I'd be more than happy to compile this list of new links if you want, just say the word.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Jan 24, 2012, 22:02:17
Joe, instead of having links to the actual page the Mod is on, you can have the link go directly to the actual post. Each post in a thread has its own URL per se (message number parameter).

As an example, instead of this link to your bike table mod:

Bike table -JRK5892-
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.45

It would be:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg56855#msg56855 or even just,  Bike table - JRK5892 (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg56855#msg56855)

which will bring you directly to the correct page and jump you down to the specific post. I'd be more than happy to compile this list of new links if you want, just say the word.

Love those free mods.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jan 25, 2012, 07:09:37
INDEX?! There's a freakin INDEX?!
*scrambles to page 1*
AWESOME JOE!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Jan 25, 2012, 08:08:56
Hey Hoosier, pm me your address and I'll send you a watch so you can get with the times ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 25, 2012, 11:19:28
Herr that is awesome! i did not know that... when i have some time i will def get that going... i think i am missing some of these as well
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jan 25, 2012, 13:16:44
Hey Hoosier, pm me your address and I'll send you a watch so you can get with the times ;D
LOL! Oh you have no idea how true that really is sometimes...  ::)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jan 25, 2012, 17:24:49
....what is this......TIME you speak of?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Jan 25, 2012, 17:27:25
Time?  It's ticking away the moments that make up a dull day.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jan 25, 2012, 20:32:39
... You fritter and waste the hours in an offhand way.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jan 25, 2012, 21:14:39
Kicking around on a piece of ground in your home town.
Waiting for someone or something to show you the way.......

Does anybody here remember Vera Lynn?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Jan 25, 2012, 21:27:37
Talk about thread derailment.Everyone goes off on a Pink Floyd tangent, and breaks out into song in text.  ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jan 25, 2012, 21:43:38
Oh yeah, we're like fucking Glee but with whiskey and cigars and women with tattoos......
but yeah, just like Glee.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Jan 25, 2012, 22:27:25
Oh yeah, we're like fucking Glee but with whiskey and cigars and women with tattoos......
but yeah, just like Glee.

 :o

WTH is Glee?Did I miss something?Am I being pranked and clueless? ???


Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: TonUp on Jan 25, 2012, 23:02:45
Kicking around on a piece of ground in your home town.
Waiting for someone or something to show you the way.......

Does anybody here remember Vera Lynn?

Vera Lynn kicked---and continues to kick ass---(I think she's still alive).  Great singer; she was the sweetheart of the British Army..."We'll meet again..."

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Jan 26, 2012, 00:04:09
'Vera' was on 'The Wall'
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vera_Lynn (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vera_Lynn)
What about George Formby?
At least he made a 'race' fililum
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NAi6feAMOs
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jan 26, 2012, 00:15:07
Ben2go: Glee is a.stupendously bad TV show, I've endured a grand total of 12 seconds of it myself. A relative who shall remain nameless (scowly face) thinks it's the shit. It is....shit I mean. There's singing and chirpy glee club folk......singing chirpingly....... <barf>

Tonup: Indeed my friend, however in this instance I was (gleefully) attempting a further derailment in the darkside of the moon. Another Floyd song....

PJ: I'll have to watch that video tomorrow, can't on my phone worth a shit.
(Dark side of the Moon being Pinkfloyds domain, not the album....)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Staffy on Jan 26, 2012, 03:51:54
I'm such a lazy sod and you know what, the other day I noticed the sun over there so I put on my dunlops and started running, but I couldn't keep up... and then it went down.....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: tsbigdog on Feb 11, 2012, 14:28:02

Home Made Blasting Cabinet

Media blasting is a bit expensive for a super low budget build so I decided to make my own blasting cabinet.  You may or may not be able to do this for under $50 depending on what you have laying around the shop.  I already had a Craftsman hopper blaster that I used as part of the kit, but you could just use a bucket and a siphon gun on the cheap.


I had a scary situation a year ago when my dishwasher caught on fire.  Well Sears (Aholes) refused to replace the unit because it didn't fall in the range of serial numbers that they had already been forced to recall by the CPSC.  Anyway I had this large dishwasher that for some reason I didn't feel right about just tossing in a land fill.  I started looking at it to see if there was anything I could salvage from it and realized that the big plastic tub would make a decent blasting cabinet.   


I removed everything from the dishwasher and made a door out of 1/4" plywood.  It actually seals pretty good because of the rubber gasket from the original door.  I cut a rectangular hole in the door for a window that I covered with Lexan.  I screwed two hinges at one end and made a handle on the other end.  Then I cut two round holes in the side of the tub and glued vinyl over the openings.  I cut an X into the center of the vinyl so I could reach in and use the gun.  I then drilled out 2 small holes on one end to feed the media line and the air line into the cabinet.  Now there was a large hole where the motor was mounted on the bottom of the dishwasher.  You can see it in the pictures.  I used some of the Lexan to cover it.  Just use some Loctite construction glue to stick it to the side of the tub.  That stuff is super strong.  Then I went out an bought a small fluorescent light fixture and mounted it in the top corner of the cabinet so I could see.  Screw a couple of pieces of 2x4 to the bottom for stability and you're done.


Total cost not including the hopper was about 30 bucks.  I works great with aluminum oxide, but not so good with glass bead.  The glass bead dust is much finer and gets out of the cabinet too easily.  No matter what you are using you will need to wear a respirator as it does leak out a bit.  If you want to spend some more time on it and seal it up better, you could.  You also could fit a shop vac to it to help out with the dust.  I know you can do this with wood, but the tub has one major advantage - It's WHITE.  That makes a big difference in the brightness inside the cabinet.  It makes it easier to see what you are doing. The hopper does jam up a lot so if you have a pressure blaster that would probably work a lot better.  When you're done just scoop out the media and reuse it.

(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/P1040764.jpg)


(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/P1040757.jpg)


(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/P1040759.jpg)


(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy170/tsbigdog/P1040763.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: TonUp on Feb 14, 2012, 12:53:40
Tonup: Indeed my friend, however in this instance I was (gleefully) attempting a further derailment in the darkside of the moon. Another Floyd song....


Too funny...in any other context, I would have immediately thought of the Pink Floyd song, but since I was here on DTT, I was thinking old British bikes, Britan,etc, and veered right into WWII Vera Lynn World...

 
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Wahoo650 on Feb 14, 2012, 13:32:38
My uncle was a HUGE Vera Lynn fan- that's all you ever heard on the stereo at their house when i was a kid.  He's been gone a few years now- good memories refreshed, thank you.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: TonUp on Feb 14, 2012, 15:05:30
No problem...for me, most of the charm of cafe bikes is the real and ersatz memories they evoke.  A purist would scoff at someone sitting next to their CB550 listening to Vera Lynn (not the Pink Floyd one) on their iPod while parked at an overlook, but that works for me.

Alas, I'm wandering further and further away from the $50 mod thread...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: marla_do on Mar 07, 2012, 19:37:46
anyone have the instructional video for the stainless break lines mentioned here? what does X7', X2 ect mean? Thanks

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=6496.msg178737#msg178737
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Mar 07, 2012, 21:03:57
@marla_do: X7, X2 are the number of items.
eg: seven feet of bulk braided line, two banjo fittings etc.....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: GK on Mar 17, 2012, 02:03:16
Ok, dont know if it has been done before(haven't read all 71 pages), but this is a quick and simple valve spring compressor for the cost of a spanner and a set of  C clamp locking pliers I had laying around the shed.
I cut the ring head of a 25/32 spanner (who uses that size? ???) and welded it onto the C clamp making sure that when the pliers are in the closed possy that the spanner head is square to the other end of the clamp and there it is, a locking clamp that holds springs down securely while you pop out the collets with a magnetic screwdriver (or your fingers if they are that dainty).
Took me about eight minutes to remove all collets and springs and more importantly will only take that long to reinstall without flying collets and springs all over the shed floor
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: GK on Mar 17, 2012, 02:05:35
The best part is it is a one handed operation so you can use the other to take the pics :P ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: GK on Mar 17, 2012, 02:45:06
Ok here it is locked in position with the little suckers just waiting to be plucked out ;)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jul 08, 2012, 13:08:48
And my addition of a cheap valve spring compressor for the recessed spring pocket on the Shim and Bucket style heads... Thanks to "FRANK" on www.CB750C.com (http://www.cb750c.com/)
 I was also worried about marring up the aluminum bore and saw where the 35mm film canister was used to protect it. Haven't see one of those in a decade!
 I found Franks solution and located some scrap 3/4" PVC pipe I had that was just the right diameter.
 First I cut a notch a little more than a quarter of the way around in a small 3-4" long piece and I had my adapter...
 
(http://smile.webshots.com/images/84d98840fbb2012f0b7522000abc0da4/jpg/800x600)
 
 I was also worried about marring the face of the valve and had found a pop bottle screw on cap fits the pivot foot of the 6" C-clamp. So now I was all set.
 
(http://smile.webshots.com/images/84bd35f0fbb2012f0b7522000abc0da4/jpg/800x600)
 
With the cylinder head blocked on its side, I gave it a test and badda-bing badda-boom it worked like a charm. Very easily compressing the springs.
 
(http://smile.webshots.com/images/84ebde40fbb2012f0b7522000abc0da4/jpg/800x600)
 
With the notch I had cut in, I had enough room to work. Used the "window" in the notched section to reach in with my magnet and out came the keepers.
 
(http://smile.webshots.com/images/84ff5d30fbb2012f0b7522000abc0da4/jpg/800x600)
 
This little tool is friggin slick! The only real input I'd give is to make sure you get the length right. You want it and the notch long enough so you still have room to work when compressed, but short enough to give you some slack once the C-clamp and valve spring tension is completely released. Also, when you use it, to put the "window" opposite of the cam journal adjacent to that valve to give you the most room to work.
 Don't forget, once you have the springs out be sure to remove the steel seats. Most could be pulled out with my magnet, but a couple were held in by the surface tension of the oil under them. Put the magnet back in and using a rubber tipped blow gun and a quick blast of air loosened them so my magnet could grab them. PIECE-O-CAKE!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: RoadRash on Jul 10, 2012, 19:32:14
Here's my cheap, ghetto welder's mask I did tonight. Those that ever bought one of these HF welders know about the "Mask-On-A-Stick" that comes with it. Lot of good it does when you have to weld with one friggin hand! SO I decided with a little elastic, some washers, rivets, and who can't forget duct tape, voila! Ghetto mask!:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/Racerx2k/photobucket-1563-1341958981849.jpg)


(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/Racerx2k/photobucket-8047-1341959015506.jpg)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Lurchorama on Jul 10, 2012, 21:31:28
I just stumbled across this thread. My head is now swimming with a whole heap of new ideas!! Awesome!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Jul 10, 2012, 23:16:54
Ok, dont know if it has been done before(haven't read all 71 pages), but this is a quick and simple valve spring compressor for the cost of a spanner and a set of  C clamp locking pliers I had laying around the shed.
I cut the ring head of a 25/32 spanner (who uses that size? ??? ) and welded it onto the C clamp making sure that when the pliers are in the closed possy that the spanner head is square to the other end of the clamp and there it is, a locking clamp that holds springs down securely while you pop out the collets with a magnetic screwdriver (or your fingers if they are that dainty).
Took me about eight minutes to remove all collets and springs and more importantly will only take that long to reinstall without flying collets and springs all over the shed floor

 I like that enough that I'm going to make one for 360
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: StoopidEngineer on Sep 06, 2012, 16:13:07
Here's my cheap, ghetto welder's mask I did tonight. Those that ever bought one of these HF welders know about the "Mask-On-A-Stick" that comes with it. Lot of good it does when you have to weld with one friggin hand! SO I decided with a little elastic, some washers, rivets, and who can't forget duct tape, voila! Ghetto mask!:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/Racerx2k/photobucket-1563-1341958981849.jpg)


(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/Racerx2k/photobucket-8047-1341959015506.jpg)

I've seen full-time welders in China use setups like this before.  Sometimes they customize their cardboard "welding helmets" by drawing faces on them.  If this works for you, that's great man, but if you're going to spend any real amount of time welding, I would really suggest you pick up a decent helmet with an auto-tinting shield.  The first time you flash your eyes too many times with this thing will lay you up for a day or two, and if you miss work because of it, you'll wish you had just spent the coin for a real helmet.

But that's pretty hardcore man, and I definitely salute the get-it-done attitude!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: RoadRash on Sep 06, 2012, 17:41:48
How am I gonna flash my eyes with it? It's not like the lens falls off. Function no different than a standard welder's helmet.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: StoopidEngineer on Sep 07, 2012, 11:19:39
Even using a regular helmet (flip up, position/adjust, flip-down) for long enough periods of time usually winds up irritating my eyes, just because I always want to start my bead while I can actually still see a little bit, so I do the "close my eyes as soon as the arc starts, while flipping my helmet back down" maneuver, which still gives me two free hands.  Yours just looks like it'd be ever harder than that to use because it doesn't flip, but if you can make it work, then more power to ya dude.
 
All I'm saying is that an auto shield helmet was some of the best money I spent when it comes to welding.  If you like your setup, and want to possibly improve it a little bit, you can buy a replacement lens for an auto-tint helmet from Grainger (or Northern Tool) or whoever for like 8 bucks.

It's the same thing with wearing earplugs/headphones...the older the get, the more I become concerned about losing things like my vision/hearing.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: RoadRash on Sep 08, 2012, 20:27:59
Yeah, I use an auto-dark at work. Defintely handy and the moment one is in my budget, I'll be plunking downthe cash. For now, this'll tide me over.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Sep 08, 2012, 21:46:02
Even if you buy an expensive auto dark welding mask, your more likely to have problems long term as there is a delay before they go 'black'
I believe there is a cumulative effect on retina  (I don't think any research has been done, too much money to be made selling them)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: RoadRash on Sep 08, 2012, 22:18:49
I agree with you. All those split second exposures have add up.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ambiguous on Oct 11, 2012, 15:59:19
anyone have access to these pictures or another DIY for this?

get aluminum sheet not to heavy not to light - think bendable but not flimsy   -   $10-20
pop rivets   -   $2
3/4 inch foam   -   $5
upholstery vinyl    -   $14
poly glue   -   $4


1 - original seat base- cut off rear 1/4
2 - make sure to use cardboard for the templates on the rear section (don't want to screw up expensive aluminum)
3 - mark template shapes on aluminum for cutting, don't forget to leave extra to fold over for pop riveting
4 - pop rivet together
5 - cut down original seat foam to fit
6 - cover the whole thing in 3/4" foam
7 - make seat cover using vinyl best way is to layup paper over each section of the seat for templates again leaving 1/2" extra for sewing the pieces together
8 - steam the cover by throwing it in the dryer with a wet towel, it will stretch easier over the base
9 - start gluing the cover on starting from the rear and working forward. (i found bulldog clips best for hold fabric in place while drying)

now you have a seat that bolts right up to your frame for under $50

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/mrkil2/SNB11172Small.jpg)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/mrkil2/SSPX0079.jpg)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/mrkil2/IMG_4613.jpg)

(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46/mrkil2/Picture004Small.jpg)

mine has a few ripples because i skipped the heating of the vinyl before mounting it...

maybe next time
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Nov 04, 2012, 08:54:18
No chemical tank cleaning for less than $50!  8)
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53071 (http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53071)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: patrickshofner on Nov 24, 2012, 08:29:43
wow....after reading every page of this thread (took me 2 days haha) i'm not sure about how much my wife will be seeing me this winter  :)
Title: CB360 headlight recycle
Post by: crazypj on Dec 17, 2012, 21:02:21
Decided to have a go at fitting H4 bulb into blown sealed beam unit
Used a hole saw to get rid of bulb base then a Dremel to open it up for bulb
It's a bit rough plus I couldn't find bulb holder but it definitely shows proof of concept.
I'll mix up some JB Weld and 'glue' bulb in
I posted in my 360 build/blog as well but not everyone looks at that
(http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k315/1crazypj/Honda%20CB360/Headlight3.jpg)

(http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k315/1crazypj/Honda%20CB360/Headlight2.jpg)
 I have it back on bike and it works great.
Way better than original even though it's only 35/35w
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: timeconsuming on Jan 04, 2013, 17:02:06
Hey guys, a lot of these are things I would love to see without hunting through the 70+ pages...

But a lot of the links are misdirecting me :(

Anyone able to clean up the links in OP ?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jan 05, 2013, 10:03:18
Hey guys, a lot of these are things I would love to see without hunting through the 70+ pages...

But a lot of the links are misdirecting me :(

Anyone able to clean up the links in OP ?
I think Joe (JRK5892 (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1489)) would have to be the one to do it, maybe a Mod or Admin... Send him a PM with the broken ones you found.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Jan 05, 2013, 11:06:46
Give me a day or two and I'll fix all the links and post them here. A mod can then copy them to the index on the first page.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: timeconsuming on Jan 05, 2013, 13:29:11
Thanks guys! This thread is awesome.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Jan 05, 2013, 20:16:43
Have all the links done now. The previous index only went up to page 40 or something, so I updated it to include the rest. Could a mod please copy this index into the first post by Joe? You can delete this post then.

Also, feel free to point out any errors or omissions in this list.

Edit: Index updated on first page.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: stroker crazy on Jan 05, 2013, 21:34:00
Champion work HerrDeacon!

Crazy
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Jan 06, 2013, 00:18:22
The man.Good work.Would have taken me a couple days to do all that.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Jan 06, 2013, 03:38:29
Wow, that's a LOT of links  8)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jan 06, 2013, 04:29:00
Man that was a shit tone of work right there...YOU ROCK HerrDeacon!
I just spent an hour going back through. fixed my pic links that were broken...
Now I need to pick up the materials for a < $50 blasting cabinet!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: gk45011 on Jan 06, 2013, 23:28:06
+2. Thanks HerrDeacon for doing the work that helps us all.

you the man!

GK
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Jan 07, 2013, 09:26:12
No problem guys, just glad I could help. Was a bit of work, but as a reward I found a couple of items that I must have either missed or forgotten along the way, will definitely try them out.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 07, 2013, 12:18:33
HerrDeacon I have tried to go on the first page and copy and paste this but it will not let me, i need the HTML, can you click your edit button and then PM me the HTML break down for that and i can add it on the home page... i thought we may get lucky with copy and paste but it failed... i tried to keep up with including the links best i could but man this one you just did is AWESOME!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Jan 07, 2013, 13:17:45
Edit: Index updated on main page.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: 1969Honda on Jan 07, 2013, 13:46:17
you rock Deacon! I've always loved this thread but hated sorting thru it all, thanks a lot!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: JRK5892 on Jan 07, 2013, 14:19:14
We are in business! thanks man
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: jerryz on Jan 07, 2013, 14:24:38
What a great thread...those links are super helpful thanks!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: HerrDeacon on Jan 07, 2013, 14:31:19
We are in business! thanks man

Excellent, glad it worked, thanks Joe. I've cleaned up my posts as well, so it doesn't confuse anyone.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on Jan 08, 2013, 13:11:20
Bought assorted bits to make my DIY blasting cabinet last night thanks to this threads revival.  ;D
PVC toilet flanges to mount the gloves inside the storage tote... BRILLIANT!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: reesea17 on Jan 09, 2013, 21:33:02
I've seen a bench top engine mount on here before but wanted to submit my own as it didn't require any metal working skills such as welding.  It cost about $10 total to make and took maybe an hour to put together.

Supplies:

I first used a miter box and hand saw to cut out all of the necessary pieces needed to make the actual mount legs.  I'm sure most of you have more sophisticated tools that I, so my estimation of an hour is within the realm of my capability.  I made two u-shaped mounts to affix to both of the bottom engine mounts so that it could sit straight up on the desktop.  I found the easiest way to find the perfect spacing for the mounts was to first attach them to the engine and then set it on the base board, mark out where they needed to be screwed down, and the remove them from the engine.  Once the mounts were affixed to the board it was easy to put everything together and get it onto the table.  Simple, cheap, and effective.

(http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz96/reesea17/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2012-12-09185517.jpg)

(http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz96/reesea17/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2012-12-09190826.jpg)

(http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz96/reesea17/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2012-12-09190853.jpg)

Let me know what you think.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ronnie on Jan 16, 2013, 20:11:09
Looks good to me, reasee!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: SONIC. on Jan 16, 2013, 20:48:57
Figured I would add to this.

Sub 50 dollar Sand Blaster
Basically you need a few parts, an old propane tank, a welder, and access to the plumbing section at your local hardware store.
This is the basic design, you need these parts
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/jbrady2/60F349F7-840A-456A-94CA-3CBD69C6ACDA-10051-000004C063F1C803_zps17562a2f.jpg)

and here is the finished product
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/jbrady2/B380BCD1-72B2-46ED-8A81-88728FED6D0C-10051-000004C032D3DD0D_zps5eef1963.jpg)
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/jbrady2/D53B8FC5-61E7-41E9-BBF3-DE9360920D9C-10020-000004BF4B673B66_zpscdf860b3.jpg)

If anyone is interested I can give you the breakdown on parts, but its pretty simple to figure out what you need.
Its a pressure pot blaster, basically you pressurize the tank with the media in it and blow air around the tank through the pipes, then the pressurized tank forces abrasive into the air stream regulated by the valve.
Works absolutely like a champ with black diamond media from TSC. (7.99 for 50lbs its WAAAY cheaper than my soda blaster)

I would guess it uses about 18 CFM at 100psi, as my compressor will shut off while using it, but it runs more often than not.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: dcmspikes on Jan 16, 2013, 21:55:49
/\ +1

thats nifty.   def need a good compressor
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ronnie on Jan 17, 2013, 13:49:49
If it wht I think I is, I hope you wear a good mask or at least a filter when using black Diamond, that dust from that stuff can cut your lungs up(from what I was told) , it's silicate particles so it's not the best for you either. Just a heads up.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Title: $50 mod thread
Post by: SONIC. on Jan 17, 2013, 14:39:59
Oh yeah, I wear a hood and a full respirator any time I'm blasting. I am a woodworker so not foreign to bad shit in my lungs. I learned long ago it's easier to just wear the damn respirator than to deal with Lung problems.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ronnie on Jan 17, 2013, 17:58:55
Awesome to hear! Yea, definitely better! Especially with the chemicals and chem mixtures they have these days!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread - jig saw table
Post by: wership on Feb 22, 2013, 01:15:56
not sure if this counts, but i made a jig saw "table"
you can check the post in my build:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=45186.msg512196#msg512196

(http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii396/mmaurin/jig%20saw%20table/IMG_2612_zpsc51e1163.jpg)
Title: $50 mod thread
Post by: SONIC. on Feb 22, 2013, 01:49:12
not sure if this counts, but i made a jig saw "table"
you can check the post in my build:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=45186.msg512196#msg512196

(http://i549.photobucket.com/albums/ii396/mmaurin/jig%20saw%20table/IMG_2612_zpsc51e1163.jpg)

I have done this on several occasions, quick easy bandsaw stand in!
Just be careful as the oscillating blade can grab your work piece or your had pretty quickly
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: wership on Feb 22, 2013, 02:00:45
i noticed it behaved a lot better when i put really light pressure on to guide the direction and let the blade do the work, rather than trying to push it through... i think with the bearings, it will be more stable, but still prone to the same grabbing (just hopefully not the hand!)
Title: $50 mod thread
Post by: SONIC. on Feb 22, 2013, 10:26:13
Necessity is the mother of invention for sure!
Title: $6.00 Easy Carb Install Method.
Post by: GLENNWOOD55CAMEO on Mar 24, 2013, 11:42:36
When installing a bank of 4 carbs, I found an easy way to accomplish this. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a piece of thin guage sheet metal. ($6.00) Then cut the sheet metal onto two strips 3in. X 12in.. You then simply put the strips, one in front of the air box intake rubbers and the other in front of the intakes on the motor, in essence making a trough for the carbs to easily slide in between.  You just slide the carbs in between the two sheets of metal and when the carbs are in place, just slide the metal strips out and wala!, your carbs are installed.................. ;D
Title: Re: $6.00 Easy Carb Install Method.
Post by: ben2go on Mar 24, 2013, 13:22:53
When installing a bank of 4 carbs, I found an easy way to accomplish this. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a piece of thin guage sheet metal. Then cut the sheet metal onto two strips 3in. X 12in.. You then simply put the strips, one in front of the air box intake rubbers and the other in front of the intakes on the motor, in essence making a trough for the carbs to easily slide in between.  You just slide the carbs in between the two sheets of matal and when the carbs are in place, just slide the metal strips out and wala!, your carbs are installed.................. ;D

 ??? I need a vid on this.  :o
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: GLENNWOOD55CAMEO on Mar 24, 2013, 14:09:06
Well, sorry, but I'm not going to pull the carbs off again just to make a video to convince you but just think about it. The principal here is to set it up to slide into place without damaging the air box boots. The two pieces of sheet metal provided a channel for the carbs to slide in. It worked slicker than snot. They slid right into place with no fuss. Took 10 min to install the carbs....................... 8)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: quadracer351 on Jun 13, 2013, 18:02:44
Love this thread.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Fab 5 Freddy on Jul 02, 2013, 18:43:54
Genius!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Fab 5 Freddy on Jul 02, 2013, 18:51:30
i need a bench grinder.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Fab 5 Freddy on Jul 02, 2013, 18:58:15
The ends on the flat bar... damn!
Title: $50 mod thread
Post by: SONIC. on Jul 02, 2013, 20:45:35
Are you just Reeeeeeeally trying to hit that 100 posts as fast as possible haha?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: edukaycheon on Jul 02, 2013, 21:23:43
Are you just Reeeeeeeally trying to hit that 100 posts as fast as possible haha?

 ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Evorussell on Jul 10, 2013, 00:36:19
Stainless steel "stepless" clamps for carb boots.

Seals better than factory and those stupid worm drive ones.
They are thin enough to work very well in all applications

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/oetiker.php
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Jul 10, 2013, 11:26:45
Stainless steel "stepless" clamps for carb boots.

Seals better than factory and those stupid worm drive ones.
They are thin enough to work very well in all applications

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/oetiker.php

You can get the same thing in stainless steel from McMaster-Carr.They are called T bolt clamps.
Title: $50 mod thread
Post by: Evorussell on Jul 10, 2013, 11:39:57
You can get the same thing in stainless steel from McMaster-Carr.They are called T bolt clamps.

It maybe difficult to tell from the picture but these differ from normal t-bolts.

1) every t-bolt I found was to wide for the application on my CB360

2) T-bolts still have a pinch point at the top, these are segmented to eliminate that.

3) these are designed to separate and expand to make them easy to take on and off

Don't have to buy them of you don't want to, but they are not the same.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Oct 10, 2013, 08:30:46
Check this DIY paint sprayer out.Shouldn't cost much at all.

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-spray-paint-1/
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Brunel on Oct 11, 2013, 16:59:53
Newbie here, working my way through the thread! Some amazing ideas, very useful. I've not read everything so apologise if this is a repost.

I'm building a Honda CG125 Tracker for my other half. Having chopped the tail off, I realised I needed to bend up a rear loop. Then my eyes fell on the old unused centre stand. A bit of cutting and grinding later and I'd ended up with a pre-bent, perfectly sized rear loop for the total price of nadda.

In the unlikely event that this is new (!) I'd be happy to post up photos :)

Right, off to read, read and read....
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Teddy21502 on Nov 12, 2013, 18:23:26
Newbie here, working my way through the thread! Some amazing ideas, very useful. I've not read everything so apologise if this is a repost.

I'm building a Honda CG125 Tracker for my other half. Having chopped the tail off, I realised I needed to bend up a rear loop. Then my eyes fell on the old unused centre stand. A bit of cutting and grinding later and I'd ended up with a pre-bent, perfectly sized rear loop for the total price of nadda.

In the unlikely event that this is new (!) I'd be happy to post up photos :)

Right, off to read, read and read....

pictures? please
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Brunel on Dec 01, 2013, 17:20:02
pictures? please

Sorry, not been on the board for a while, some pics as requested. :) On this bike the centre stand main loop made from tubing of the same diameter as the rear subframe. Critical for a smooth look to the rear loop.

Take one old centre stand

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5494/11159205586_5dc21f5fa3_b.jpg)

Grind away all the useless brackets and cut the ends to match the diameter of the subframe

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/11159193146_0a542663e6_b.jpg)

Cut the ends to produce the desired up lift.

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5503/11159144615_659439120d_b.jpg)

I'll  get a photo of it smoothed and welded in place when it gets back from the powdercoaters :)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: soulreaper on Dec 01, 2013, 17:31:31
liking this info. thanks everyone

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: krafty on Dec 09, 2013, 13:40:29
While not a mod per-se, this could be the best $15 I've spent on my bike thus far...

After finding the factory manuals online (god bless the interwebs!) I took the PDF down the street to a local printer/bulk mailer.  For $15 they printed the manual, put a clear plastic cover on it and comb-bound it.  Now I don't have to run into the office to look at the computer, risk an iPad getting grease-covered or damaged in the shop, or worry about losing the 1 sheet I needed from the batch I printed on my computer because the furnace kicked on and blew the pages all over the place.

I'm sure everyone has a FedEx/Kinko's nearby, but consider the local print shops near you.  Any of them worth their salt can take a PDF, print it and bind it for you.  They'll also be less concerned over any potential copyright issues in printing something like this (although the local Kinko's has never given me any grief either). 

Oh, and if you have stuff in color, consider printing it straight on black-and-white if you can.  Color printing is super-expensive compared to B/W.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: reesea17 on Dec 10, 2013, 13:14:49
Wanted to share my rear frame hoop development.  After spending a long time contemplating shelling out the $50-$70 for a pre-bent rear hoop, I had an epiphany moment while looking through some junk parts from the initial bike tear down.  The bike originally had one of the front mounted crash guards on it (I think it was modified or a DIY guard, because whoever made it didn't have it even slightly centered, you can see it in the first photo), and I realized that the tubing was the same OD as the frame tubing, and already had two 90 degree angles bent into it.  So I decided to cut off the 90's, weld them together, and use it as my rear hoop. (Going for a flat brat style seat)  Here are a couple pictures to show what I did, technically, this cost me nothing to do.

I don't know why this was even on the bike in the first place, it couldn't have come from Honda this off center could it?

(http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz96/reesea17/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2013-11-17103015_zps01cd99c9.jpg~original) (http://s817.photobucket.com/user/reesea17/media/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2013-11-17103015_zps01cd99c9.jpg.html)

90's welded together.

(http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz96/reesea17/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2013-11-18130137_zps1c82d11a.jpg~original) (http://s817.photobucket.com/user/reesea17/media/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2013-11-18130137_zps1c82d11a.jpg.html)

I wanted to continue the angle of the frame and went with a mitered joint essentially.  Used steel plugs that I turned down in order to help strengthen the joint.

(http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz96/reesea17/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2013-11-20225028_zps43a6ede9.jpg~original) (http://s817.photobucket.com/user/reesea17/media/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2013-11-20225028_zps43a6ede9.jpg.html)

Finished Product:

(http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz96/reesea17/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2013-11-20234357_zps53c97eb5.jpg~original) (http://s817.photobucket.com/user/reesea17/media/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2013-11-20234357_zps53c97eb5.jpg.html)


Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Maritime on Dec 10, 2013, 14:46:11
Nice work there!
Title: Re: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Captmilk76 on Dec 11, 2013, 08:36:35
Finished Product:

(http://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz96/reesea17/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2013-11-20234357_zps53c97eb5.jpg~original) (http://s817.photobucket.com/user/reesea17/media/Honda%20CB450%20Build/2013-11-20234357_zps53c97eb5.jpg.html)
[/quote]


Great job!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: sharperdill on Jan 22, 2014, 18:55:42
Cheepo   File Handles
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QfhqxXxdc_I/UqdcpJ8U1GI/AAAAAAAABzc/cEW7U6WLNkI/s1600/20131210_120032.jpg)
Using a file without a handle is very dangerous. When I worked as a diesel mechanic I seen this clever idea on the shop floor.

Do not use this sort of handle if you are intending to use the file on a lathe.
Warning!: Files are very brittle, so do not get carried away beating the ball onto the handle
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: SaltCityCafe on Feb 06, 2014, 19:31:57
Thought this was kinda cool. Step by step on how to build an oil tank for $50. The shape doesn't matter but the info on the internals and such is universal.

http://www.choppergods.com/redbarronwebv3/BUDGET_OIL_TANK.pdf (http://www.choppergods.com/redbarronwebv3/BUDGET_OIL_TANK.pdf)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: runmikeyrun on Jul 18, 2014, 09:32:11
Simple rust removal without the need to Kreem or coat inside of tank with oil/WD40 (and your tank will NEVER rust again!)

The last tank I used this process on sat on a shelf in my garage with Ohio weather for two years with no gas in it and not a speck of rust appeared.

Items needed:
Tank (duh)
Large enough rubbermaid container to fit your tank, with the lid -OR- ability to seal the tank (cap, block off plate for petcock) MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO HOLES!  lol
1-2 gallons of Milkstone remover (available from Tractor Supply Co)  It's orange and is around $14 for a gallon jug.  Milkstone remover's main ingredient is phosphoric acid.
Hair dryer
safety glasses and heavy nitrile gloves

I recommend removing large amounts of flaky rust first with screws or nuts with tank filled with water.

don safety glasses and gloves.  This stuff will burn you. 

Mix the Milkstone remover 1:3 with water.  That is, one gallon of Milkstone remover to three gallons of water.  That will make 4 gallons, which will easily be enough to fill a tank.  Otherwise, mix up enough to completely fill/cover the tank when immersed in a rubbermaid container.  Either way, make sure the tank is as full as possible.  You may also invert the tank for one day to get any areas that you can't reach by filling or submersion.  If you use a rubbermaid container make sure to put the lid on or it will stink up the whole garage; also it keeps kids and animals out of it.

I leave my solution in 2-3 days.  When finished, drain the solution and rinse well with water.  Then use the hair dryer propped in the filler hole to completely dry the inside.  Two things have occurred- your rust is gone, and the tank is coated in a beautiful grey coating.  This coating is actually the outside layer of steel being chemically converted to black ferric phosphate and it will prevent future rust, so leave it on!  There is no need for any additional coatings like Kreem that can peel away over time.  As for the outside of the tank (if you've submerged it) the coating can be scrubbed away to reveal the metal before prime/paint.

The only bad part about this process is that I haven't found a way to dispose of the used solution.  What I did is pour it into a home depot bucket and left it, it also works good on removing rust on other parts and/or chrome.  It will last a long time and will do quite a few tanks/parts. 

(http://media.tractorsupply.com/s7viewers/dhtml/images/spacer.gif)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Jul 18, 2014, 12:13:42
Will it remove paint?I have two tanks that need repainting and it would really be helpful if it would remove paint as well.If not.Aircraft stripper and then the bath in your suggested solution.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: runmikeyrun on Jul 18, 2014, 12:44:51
The tank I did, it did not remove the paint.  Not saying it will not HARM paint, it will usually cause a haze or dull it, but it definitely did not strip it.  Aircraft stripper is the bomb, I need to do a tank soon myself.  Gets ya so damn hiiiiiiiiiiiiiigh though...
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: ben2go on Jul 18, 2014, 13:04:21
Thanks for the info.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: runmikeyrun on Jul 18, 2014, 15:46:45
sure dogg
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: cosworth on Jul 18, 2014, 18:02:11
SR250. Properly jetted, it might hit 110kph with me sitting up. I tuck and I go 120. Stuck a velocity stack on there for $40. I get 120 sitting up.

Afterwards, cleaned the carb. $5. Bike runs amazing with that stack. Had a chinese K&N copy on there before. No, the ports were not blocked.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Jul 18, 2014, 18:25:23
Yamaha RTS?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: cosworth on Jul 18, 2014, 18:45:11
Yamaha RTS?

Yamaha RTS?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Jul 18, 2014, 22:19:31
'Race tuned speedometer'  ;D
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jul 20, 2014, 00:11:14
Ya think?
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: cosworth on Jul 21, 2014, 03:31:29
Lol. Yeah a gps logger is real inaccurate lol.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Swagger on Jul 22, 2014, 05:01:04
Oh wait...kph.....hahaha oops, so that's like what....45mph? ;)
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: cosworth on Jul 22, 2014, 13:55:58
It's full tuck and Civics passing you.

Right where I want to be in my post litre bike and dragging knee through intersections days.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: crazypj on Jul 22, 2014, 23:20:09
It's about 75mph?
Not too shabby for a 'trail bike' motor with small carb and restrictive exhaust
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: cosworth on Jul 23, 2014, 03:44:58
Yeah, I have a dunstall repackable pipe on there. Stock engine. 145 jet. Seems to have smooth power. I'm one tooth down in the rear. It will do 130kph full tuck on flat. 90k over the mountain to the city.

It's remarkably nimble.

Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: runmikeyrun on Jun 17, 2015, 13:59:26
Footpegs vibrating?  Feet buzzing/tingly after a ride?  This mod cost me about $10.  Read on.

Even though my KZ750's footpegs have rubber pads and rubber isolation bushings where they mount to the frame, after a half hour I was still getting tingly feet from the vibration, especially at freeway speeds.  Like a pirate with the ship's wheel in the front of his pants, it was driving me nuts.  I thought adding mass to the pegs might help dampen this.

My footpegs, like most, have a hollow steel tube inside the rubber.  I mixed a combination of JB Weld with birdshot, then packed the inside of the tube with it, which added a considerable amount of mass to the peg.  I mixed the shot with the epoxy instead of filling the peg with loose shot and just plugging the end with epoxy because if the plug lets go you'll have birdshot making its way under your rear tire.

What you need:

-lead birdshot, I used (5) 12ga shotgun shells
-JB weld or other thick two part epoxy.  One package of JB Weld was enough
-plunger the approximate size of the inside of the tube, I used some thick rubber hose with a bolt stuck in the end
-popsicle stick or flat screwdriver to mix
-electrical tape

1.  Remove footpeg and pivot pin.

2.  Make sure the inside of the footpeg is free of dirt, flakes of rust etc.  Surface rust is ok, there's really no way to remove that.

3.  Wrap electrical tape around the outside of the metal, so the epoxy will not stick to the metal.  Electrical tape is best because masking tape will tear when you remove it.

4.  Open the ends of the shotgun shells to access the shot and stand on end.

5.  Squeeze out a decent amount of the epoxy and mix.  Don't use too much or it will set up before you can get it all inside the footpeg.

6.  Mix in the shot in small quantities to make sure you don't add too much shot.  You don't want a slurry, you want a mixture of almost all shot with the epoxy acting just to bind it together.  Basically a clump of sticky shot.

7.  Put globs of the mixture into the tube and occasionally pack with your plunger.  It doesn't have to be rammed super hard, just enough to fill the voids.  Do this until the peg is mostly full.  Make sure the mixture doesn't interfere with the pivot pin or the action of the peg.

8.  While I don't feel it's necessary, you may fill the end with straight epoxy.  If you've packed your shot mixture well it should not come out.

9.  When you are done, remove the electrical tape and make sure surfaces and the holes for the pivot pin are clean.  If a little epoxy remains in the holes, you can remove it with an xacto or drill bit.

10.  Stand the pegs on end until the epoxy cures, usually 24 hours.

Nothing will completely eliminate vibration but you should notice a difference.  If you have rubber on the pegs it will be more noticeable.  Billet pegs will probably always vibrate  :P   

EDIT: I put over 200 miles on the pegs the other day, from OH to WV and back.  Lots of 50mph+ riding and nary a buzz in my feet after 2 hour riding sessions.  Perfect!
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Alfer on Apr 08, 2017, 02:11:08
It's full tuck and Civics passing you so click here (https://www.grosseteste.com/bathmate-review-results) for the Bathmate.

Right where I want to be in my post litre bike and dragging knee through intersections days.

Thanks for all the ideas.
Title: $50 mod thread
Post by: Ride on Sep 21, 2017, 02:21:26
Talcum powder will make wires move much more easily through handlebars. Don't forget a snake sent through first is easier as its often thinner than the wires you'll be pulling.
Title: Re: $50 mod thread
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 21, 2017, 04:34:07
Late to the party but what an idea!
Title: $50 mod thread
Post by: Ride on Sep 29, 2017, 23:15:56
This is a tip that sounds more fun than it is... when you have to get a hole lined up with another hole and there’s a gap between.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170930/48914ce84d4e91b5cf33bd2e85d9610b.heic)

It’s a drill bit depth collar on a screwdriver. The collar gives you a squared trajectory for the piece below to make your mark for drillin or screwin or scissorin for making your nuts pull up square and tight.