DO THE TON

Blood Sweat Tears and Grease => Projects => Cafe Racers => Topic started by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 22, 2016, 10:59:35

Title: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 22, 2016, 10:59:35
Hey guys!

Its been a long time coming.
I have a (two) new projects.After finishing my RD250 to RD350 conversion and different mods I got hungry again to find me a totally different project bike.
Since Im always looking for something exotic I found two Yamaha XS 750s.
The PO completely modified a small apartement in an old house (and with old I mean around 1890) to a small and extremely dense workshop with 100 per cent Yamaha Triple dominance.
All walls were filled with tools, pin ups from the 90s and parts and stuff for the Yamaha Triples.
He offered me two completely stock  750s for a good price together with many parts for example a 3-1 exhaust setup and a 826 cylinder and jug kit (with the right head gasket).
Problem was he couldnt start the XSs, one is just a part bike so it needs motor work but the other one should get started this weekend.
So its been really short but I already have questions:
.) Is there a way to check for the 2nd gear issue on this bike without running the bike on the street (he told me that I can shift trough the gears by hand if I want)?
.)is the second gear fix an easy fix or should I walk away in this case from this deal?
.)he used 850 parts to change from the stock points ignition to electronic ignition.is there a way to check if its properly working without running the bike on the street?

I hope you guys can help!
I will post pics soon!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/b8cf48e03e25bf1f16486cc9f6cbe205.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/ffbc659e025c0071b3db23bfa6f2adf7.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/96b6a31cc78c0756d2218437b7cc021b.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 01, 2016, 03:30:54
So it happened.I couldnt resist and bought two xs 750's.
One is in a nearly original condition and quite crusty :-)
First plan is the get the original one to start and at the same time slowly modify the crusty one.
I'm currently in the process of cleaning the carbs,any help appreciated!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 01, 2016, 03:48:02
I can clean your carbs And make them work flawlessly, all i need is a dirty look from the lady in red 😁
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 01, 2016, 06:07:21
I can clean your carbs And make them work flawlessly, all i need is a dirty look from the lady in red 😁

 ;D ;D ;D hahaha youre epic man!


back to the carbs..:-):

there basically broken down to the carb bodies (i dont want to break the 3 carbs apart, hope i can keep em together.
I sprayed trough every air bore and jet with carb cleaner and pressurized air, membranes look mint, slides with the needles attached have slight scratches.
one of the cylinder 3 floats was even broken and just sitting in the there.
do i need to remove the choke mechanism too to clean the bores?
thought about putting the whole bench to ultrasonic...
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 01, 2016, 06:11:47
You dont need to take them apart unless for changing the butterfly seals. Just go through all the jets and passages and hold up all the diaphragms against a strong light, if it shines through they are shot. Can be mended with a gas proof vulcanizing rubber glue, since they are high $ parts. Only way for you to test if butterfly seals are tight is to put them back on the bike after cleaning and shooting some motor starter at them. You will notice the engine rpm increase  if they leak.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 01, 2016, 06:13:34
Now go bolt them up and crank it! That is if you have changed all the fluids first.. 😎
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 01, 2016, 07:16:10
You dont need to take them apart unless for changing the butterfly seals. Just go through all the jets and passages and hold up all the diaphragms against a strong light, if it shines through they are shot. Can be mended with a gas proof vulcanizing rubber glue, since they are high $ parts. Only way for you to test if butterfly seals are tight is to put them back on the bike after cleaning and shooting some motor starter at them. You will notice the engine rpm increase  if they leak.

Im pretty lucky...the membranes seem spotless (checked them vigorously since this was the problem on my KZ400 back then, quite agonizing...)

Mains are: 145s and idles are 17.5s...
Am i right that you mean shooting the brake fluid "between" the carbs where the butterlfy axles meet the carb bodies?
I will let the engine run warm and then make an oil change (motor oil and shaft oil).
probably need to change the rubber mounting boots of the carbs too, they look hard and worn,do you know what the stock mixture screw setting is (I write down the turns out of the screws they were 5 1/4 turns out)?

do i need to bench sync the buterflies with some copper wire?
in closed position there seems to be NO gap between carb body and butterflies now...

thanks for your advice so far!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 01, 2016, 07:20:12
Idle is governed by the mixture screws. They should be 1- 2 full 360 degree turns out. Pilot jets Should be bigger than 17.5! More like 42.5...
It does not sound right.. will dig out my old carb corpses when im back in the garage. Doing this now: (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160801/79d8d642a25adbdd80078dc1d741445d.jpg) coffee and admiration! :D
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 01, 2016, 09:11:38
thanks for your effort man :-)!

just looked up for the carb boots, there seem to be different lengths?!does it matter which one to use or should i stay strict to the stock ones?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 01, 2016, 15:02:10
thanks for your effort man :-)!

just looked up for the carb boots, there seem to be different lengths?!does it matter which one to use or should i stay strict to the stock ones?
Depends on your other carb mounts i guess? maybe hang them in there w/o boots and take a measure?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 01, 2016, 15:17:06
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160801/29dd7f276f8ecd5cbeca261f8122dc10.jpg) show me yours i'll show you mine 😀
so these are my main and pilot jets, this would be the stock jetting of a 78 something model.
42.5 pilot 130 main.
You are going to end up at 140 mains, 142.5 center main is nice also - if you are running open exhaust and good flowing filters. May want to raise the needle one full notch as well, but do that last. I did not need to go up on pilot jets on my stock-ish (pod filters and 2" 3-1 megaphone) 750, it ran perfectly on stock pilot jets.
I run 150 mains and 155 center in mine because its got high comp ratio, full open exhaust and k&n filters besides the extra 150cc 😊
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Psycrow on Aug 01, 2016, 17:21:48
Also working on an XS750 triple 78' over in the Tracker section... I'll be watching this.. I've delta with Second gear issues on other Yamaha bikes... my understanding is that it's not a terrible job on these... on my 84 FJ1100 it was a complete teardown  and split cases to change two gears and a shift fork... geesh. Unfortunately you will need to drive the bike and load second gear to see if yours has the issue... it's not an expensive fix if you do the work yourself and the bike can still be driven till you decide to do the repair. Your not going to ruin anything else by riding it... just take it easy through 2nd.

Psy

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 02, 2016, 07:56:03
Mains are: 145s and idles are 17.5s...
Am i right that you mean shooting the brake fluid "between" the carbs where the butterlfy axles meet the carb bodies?
I will let the engine run warm and then make an oil change (motor oil and shaft oil).
probably need to change the rubber mounting boots of the carbs too, they look hard and worn,do you know what the stock mixture screw setting is (I write down the turns out of the screws they were 5 1/4 turns out)?

do i need to bench sync the buterflies with some copper wire?
in closed position there seems to be NO gap between carb body and butterflies now...

Hi Ryan
145 mains and 17.5 pilots were standard in some markets, but as Dave has said 130 & 42.5 is a common arrangement.
Not sure about shooting brake fluid - but to check for leaking seals and mounting rubbers I have used carbi cleaner. You can smell it come through the exhaust. The fact that the mixture screws were turned out 5+ turns indicates that the PO had idle problems due to air leaks and they were trying to  make the idle mixture richer. Suggest you get a new set of rubber mounting boots from Yambits in England (cheapest I could find) and butterfly seals from Mike XS. Made a world of difference to my XS750.

At idle there should not be any visible gap between butterfly and body, when the idle speed screw is fully backed off. This may be another pointer that your bike was sucking air through a leak and the PO was trying to get it to idle below 2,000rpm. I had the problem and it has now been fixed by butterfly seals and new rubber mounting boots - it is 40 years old!!!
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 02, 2016, 08:26:12
Hi Ryan
Just looking at the photos and looks like a 2D and they had triple points ignition!!! A bitch to maintain.
Has it been converted to the later CDI???
Don't mean to tell you how to such eggs - but have you tested that you have spark?
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 02, 2016, 13:06:07
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160801/29dd7f276f8ecd5cbeca261f8122dc10.jpg) show me yours i'll show you mine 😀
so these are my main and pilot jets, this would be the stock jetting of a 78 something model.
42.5 pilot 130 main.
You are going to end up at 140 mains, 142.5 center main is nice also - if you are running open exhaust and good flowing filters. May want to raise the needle one full notch as well, but do that last. I did not need to go up on pilot jets on my stock-ish (pod filters and 2" 3-1 megaphone) 750, it ran perfectly on stock pilot jets.
I run 150 mains and 155 center in mine because its got high comp ratio, full open exhaust and k&n filters besides the extra 150cc 😊

thanks datadavid for your input!

looks like you have different carbs...my mains and idles are installed in the float bowls...looked it up and my settings are stock for my model...
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 02, 2016, 13:07:16
Hi Ryan
Just looking at the photos and looks like a 2D and they had triple points ignition!!! A bitch to maintain.
Has it been converted to the later CDI???
Don't mean to tell you how to such eggs - but have you tested that you have spark?
Cheers
Tim

thanks for your insight tim!
the PO converted it to the 850 cdi setup...i have strong spark.this was one of my concerns...is it possible that the timing is off, even when the PO installed a cdi?if yes how can I check?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 02, 2016, 15:30:53
I have another question guys concerning the stock brakes:

They are stuck so i'll nees to get them off and give them a good clean...there are three bolts holding the brakes,one has some kind of a rubber dampening to the screw...what is that screw doing?is it also holding the brake on the fork?
Just wanted to ask tou guys before i break something precious ;-)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 02, 2016, 18:30:37
Hi Ryan
Difficult to install cdi the wrong way. The main thing to check is that the rotor is correctly engaged in the idex pin on the end of the crank. Also check that the index pin has not been push flush with the crank. Should run at that point, then you need a timing light to get the coil plate exactly correct.
Brakes, 2 bolts hold the brake assembly to the forks, undo first. The bolt with rubber damper  allows the caliper to float and self align with the disc. You can rebuild without removing. but if you are re building pull apart and make sure the caliper can slide on bolt.
Cheers
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 02, 2016, 19:44:15
Hi Ryan
You say your jets screw into the float bowl! That sounds like the Hitachi carbies used on the 850. The 850 cdi is great as it has electronic advance, but the Hitachi carbs have a bad rap. Hard to get parts including jets. What brand is marked on them?
What carbs are on the other bike, they may be a better option. Makuni series II with the 2 position choke are the best factory carb unless you go the triumph option. If you go the triumph option you will need to rejet as yours is a 750 and the triumph triples with carbs were 900.
Regards
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 03, 2016, 08:20:34
Yes throw the hitachis as far as you can. Not worth the bother.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 03, 2016, 09:33:37
Here are some pics...carb tops say mikuni...hope that those mkII's....
Edit:looks like they are generation 1 mikunis.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 03, 2016, 19:58:36
Those are mk1
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 04, 2016, 02:35:53
Should i throw them too into the bin :-)?

Just found that....
Will these fit my XS?what will I need to modify to fit these?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 04, 2016, 07:15:14
Yep Mk1
A lot cheaper to clean and new mounting rubbers than spend Euro199!
You are going to need new mounting rubbers no matter what carbi you have on it. I my humble opinion get the mounting rubbers and see how it runs. You are going to need to rejet the Triumph carbies before you even get started!!!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 04, 2016, 15:16:16
Thanks tim!

Just finished cleaning my mk1 carbs lets see what they will do...i will set the mixture screws to 1 1/2 turns out for starters.

Just figured today that i have mk2 carbs on my parts bike...when i opened the carbs they were nice and clean but two posts where the floats are fixed were broken off...so i guess they are paperweights now.

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 04, 2016, 23:31:35
What a shit!!!
The PO must of used a hammer to get the float pins out!
From the repair  manual, for carbs with 145 main and 17.5 pilot the float height should be 26.6mm and pilot air screws at 2 1/4. Does it have an aircleaner? Should start though but if the mounting boots are buggered and you don't have an aircleaner it is going to be lean.
Good luck
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 05, 2016, 13:32:12
Yep Mk1
A lot cheaper to clean and new mounting rubbers than spend Euro199!
You are going to need new mounting rubbers no matter what carbi you have on it. I my humble opinion get the mounting rubbers and see how it runs. You are going to need to rejet the Triumph carbies before you even get started!!!
The bike runs so much smoother and better with those carbs, i believe its a justified investment. I also think the daytonas power figures are resembling the xs, a bit higher of course. May just need a different main and 1 needle shim.

Thanks tim!

Just finished cleaning my mk1 carbs lets see what they will do...i will set the mixture screws to 1 1/2 turns out for starters.

Just figured today that i have mk2 carbs on my parts bike...when i opened the carbs they were nice and clean but two posts where the floats are fixed were broken off...so i guess they are paperweights now.

I welded up a float post i broke on my ladys xs1100, they break too easy even if you do it the right way. Was good as new afterwards though, you cant even see its been broken. Kintsukuroi as the japanese say.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 06, 2016, 04:55:14
If you can find someone to weld them for not much, then they would be great. If they want to charge shop rates then might be better getting the Triumph carbies.
Just check that the pitch and mounting boss on the engine side matches the mounting rubber boot internal diameter on the triumph carbies.
I am using a triumph 1050 header on the 896 and the pitch was perfect, but the head interface needs work to make it fit. The triumph carbies Dave used were a simple fitment. Was that correct Dave?
It should run OK on the Mk 1 carbies, at least to see if the rest is OK.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 09, 2016, 13:25:07
Hey guys...so today i tried to start the xs with the freshly cleaned carbies (mikuni 1).
Checked for spark and cylinder 1 has no spark,cyl 2 weak spark and cyl 3 strong spark.
It kinda ran on 2 cyl but only when I was holding onto the throttle.
The PO told me that the regulator unit might be shot,could this cause this issue?
Could it be some shot coils?

Red white and orange goes to the coil i checked for continuity to the ignition box the cables are fine.
Checked for volts coming out of the box...no volts on red white and orange.shot ignition box?

I also opened the oil cap of the motor and tried to move the main chain and I could move it up all the way to the motor lid...looks like theres a lot to do on that thing...


(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160809/7e7766707ac199b02bb714583d51a7ce.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160809/d91e2f80daa6e4a56bfc4806fbc5966e.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160809/6146ab42796f772be8531556e91064e2.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Mi3ninos on Aug 09, 2016, 15:00:57
float posts can be repaired fairly easily.

http://www.yamaha-triples.org/workshop/Mikuni_MKII_Post_Repair.pdf (http://www.yamaha-triples.org/workshop/Mikuni_MKII_Post_Repair.pdf)

another common problem with the MKII is the air pilot screws often break at the tips. no replacements and the tip often breaks deep.

 as recommended prior 2.25 turns out is a good start and make triple sure the passages are clear. mine starts best at 2.75 turns out but runs and synchs  best at 2.5
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 10, 2016, 04:20:05
Thanks man!any ideas on my last post (spark problems)?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 10, 2016, 04:45:31
If you can find someone to weld them for not much, then they would be great. If they want to charge shop rates then might be better getting the Triumph carbies.
Just check that the pitch and mounting boss on the engine side matches the mounting rubber boot internal diameter on the triumph carbies.
I am using a triumph 1050 header on the 896 and the pitch was perfect, but the head interface needs work to make it fit. The triumph carbies Dave used were a simple fitment. Was that correct Dave?
It should run OK on the Mk 1 carbies, at least to see if the rest is OK.
Cheers
Tim
It was very straightforward, bolts straight on to the stock rubbers.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 10, 2016, 04:53:49
Any ideas on my spark problem data?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 10, 2016, 05:09:29
Hi Ryan
If you have good spark on one cylinder then it is unlikely to be the CDI unit. Each cylinder has its own coil and high tension lead. My 750 was week on #1 and it was the high tension lead. If you have some spare leads and coils on the other bike, then start by swapping the lead. If still no good try swapping the coil the coil.
See where that get you.
Regards
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 10, 2016, 05:23:50
Hey tim thank you!
By lead you mean the thick cables coming from the coil going to the spark plug boot dont you?

What do you say concerning the main chain slack i described?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 10, 2016, 05:26:32
Ryan
For testing make sure the battery is fully charged. My harness was cactus and the bike was not charging. When the battery lost charge the engine started to miss on one cylinder and as the charge dropped it would not run at all. It could be the regulator if the battery is low. If your battery is fully charged then keep going with the high tension leads and coils.
To test the regulator you should be getting a voltage better than 14volts across the black and red wire coming out of the regulator.
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 10, 2016, 05:40:41
Ryan
Yes cables coming out of the coil and going to spark plugs - the caps can also be faulty and leak the spark!!!
The chain you can see through the oil cap is the primary chain which transfers power from the crank to the clutch - they are a known weak point. Many people on line make up chain tensioners to "fix" the problem. The good point is that on the XS750 they are bloody easy to take the side covers off and fit a new chain as it is on the side of the engine. You can change the chain without removing the engine from the frame ;D. All the 4 cylinder engines have the primary chain going through the middle cylinders. and are a lot more work >:(.
Sounds like it has a bit of slack, but they are never "tight". The top is the tension side when driven and the slack is down at the bottom where there is a little extra room. If you are not finding aluminium filings in the engine oil then it is not hitting anything and it is not you top priority. It can wait until you are ready to change it - they are relatively expensive.
Good luck.
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 10, 2016, 06:06:31
Thanks tim!i guess then i will get new plug caps in combo with the new leads.
How are the leads mounted in the coils?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 10, 2016, 06:22:34
Ryan
You need to take the screw cap off the old cable and put it on the new cable. Then there should be a metal screw thread poking out of the coil that you screw into the wire on the new lead. Then you screw the cap down on the coil to clamp it all tight.
I take it that your battery was fully charged?
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 10, 2016, 06:34:47
Ok tim!
The battery read 12.3Volts without the starter running,i guess it needs a good charge since I already tried to start it a few times (battery is new).

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 10, 2016, 07:03:39
12.3 is marginal if the regulator is stuffed. Should be closer to 13V if it was a freshly charged battery. Suggest you charge it and see if  you get good spark. In the past I have hooked up a car or boat battery with jumper leads just to test things http://www.dotheton.com/forum/Smileys/default/wink.gif
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 10, 2016, 07:27:09
Ok tim!so you connect a car battery (running motor) directly to the minus and plus terminals of the xs battery am I right...then i will do it this way next time!

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 10, 2016, 07:42:12
correct
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 10, 2016, 07:46:20
Superb! :D then I will try it this way!

The PO told me that he thinks the rectifier is fried cuz the lights and control lights wont come on (in all key position), he gave me a new unit, i guess I will try to connect the new unit to when I try the things you stated.

There is a malconnection too at the cables coming out of the rectifier (black cable came loose), could this also cause this ignition problem, i tried to fix it,maybe theres still no connection?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 10, 2016, 08:07:42
Yes the cables and connectors are 40years old, there is probably more than one faulty connector. On my bike it would not charge, the rectifier was OK, the problem was just shitty connections that were worn out and corroded. The black cable out of the rectifier goes to earth. I hate electronics - it is more like black magic to me!!!!! In the end I just had to pay a guy to fix it http://www.dotheton.com/forum/Smileys/default/angry.gif.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Garc on Aug 10, 2016, 13:56:00
I personally ran up and down every harness with a multimeter and cleaned all connecting plugs with contact cleaner/small wire brush.  Tested all loads for static battery draw and verified all resistances of components.
The joys of a 35+ year old bike.  Nothing beats the sound of a triple though.

Good luck
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 11, 2016, 07:11:36
Does any of you guys have a coloured wiring diagram handy in high res?would like to print it out to fight ny electrical gremlins...i yesterday dug out a spare loom maybe I will need it :-)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160811/2725eb38bed9a77611fa9e43cf0a886f.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 11, 2016, 08:00:57
I have one for every model made in my manual, can send pics of your models tonight when i go by the garage.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 11, 2016, 08:03:32
Electrics probably just need a good cleaning - the connectors hanging on the left side of the battery box are usually subjected to battery acid early in the bikes life because of the vent tube there, so they will be corroded and not letting voltage through!
Did you try to hang a size 10 spanner on the alternator cover with ignition switched on yet? It should magnetize enough to hold the spanner.
Soon you will have a roaring triple!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 11, 2016, 09:08:58
Thanks data!will do!
I'm new to the 4stroke world so I keep learning everyday.
Alternator is left hand side am I right?
Will this also apply with my XS 850 electronic ignition?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 11, 2016, 09:09:29
I have one for every model made in my manual, can send pics of your models tonight when i go by the garage.
That would be great thanks!

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 11, 2016, 09:13:09
Thanks data!will do!
I'm new to the 4stroke world so I keep learning everyday.
Alternator is left hand side am I right?
Will this also apply with my XS 850 electronic ignition?

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Alternator is right hand when sitting on the bike.
850's have same principle charging system, but i think they have unit construction reg/rec's.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 11, 2016, 09:20:32
Hi Ryan
When you sit on the bike, the alternator is on the right hand side and the ignition is on the left hand side.
The charging loom does not go up through the main harness. Four wires come out of the alternator and into the rectifier. Then the black and red out of the rectifier are your ground and positive.
The Yamaha Triples site has the manuals on line http://yamaha-triples.org/library/owners/xs7502d/default.asp
Regards
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 11, 2016, 09:21:08
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160811/d1d685add963248554c992676de76984.jpg)

Alright right hand side!

The PO installed the 850 ignition...I think the reg/rec is now a combo unit,it has two cable strings with plugs on it IIRC.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 11, 2016, 12:09:00
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160811/f725d7338b2672c2a87b5b45c0955c7b.jpg) no nice and bright colors unfortunately.. 😕 i can scan it for higher res if you have any use for it.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 12, 2016, 04:28:33
no nice and bright colors unfortunately.. 😕 i can scan it for higher res if you have any use for it.
that would be really nice of you!

I will hopefully get on the bike tomorrow and try the things you said guys.Already bought new ignition cables and spark plugs.

Is there a sure way to test coils for function with a multimeter (i read something about measuring the ohm figure)?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 12, 2016, 05:41:04
Hy Ryan
Not a pretty photo!!! Looks like the alternator cover has been off for a long time. There is not much that can go wrong with the rotor but there is a lot that can go wrong with the coils. In the alternator cover there are 2 separate coils. The inner coil is the energizer which works with the rotor to create the magnetic fields. The outer coil generates the AC voltage which goes to the regulator. You need to test wire to wire on both wires that go to the energizer coil and then there are 3 wires (from memory) that come from the generator coil, so you heed to test is 3 pairs of wires. For example W1 with W2, W3 with W1 and W2 with W3, if any of these are open circuit you have a problem. Use a multimeter on the lowest resistance scale. If 2 or more wires are open circuit then you need to fix them. The most likely point that they break is where they come out of the cover. Means you have to strip the insulation off at that point make the repair and then cover again with insulation heatshrink or tape.
Not fun, of the 3 alternators I have 2 needed repair at that point.
I have attached a PDF of the XS750-2D repair manual which I downloaded off the web for free - no copyright.
I have also attached a Mikuni carbi tuning guide which I have made up from copying a number of different documents and bloggs that made sense. I cannot claim any credit for the information.
Hope they help you.
Regards
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 12, 2016, 06:46:30
Ryan
If you have a digital multimeter then there is usually a setting on ohms where if you put the 2 probes together it beeps, meaning a closed circuit. No beep means open circuit, which is bad!!!
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 12, 2016, 06:54:40
Ryan
The attached snip of the circuit diagram for the charging circuit. It shows you the colours of the wires you need to test.
Cheers
Tim

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 12, 2016, 11:07:33
Thanks guys just got my first box with rubber carb boots...the new ones are a bit longer than the stock ones...will this cause any issues (ebay item for my bike model)?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160812/087d7796c58a6cf41eee2c237e9dce9c.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Mi3ninos on Aug 12, 2016, 14:12:28
Those are the boots I have on the 79 w Mik II bs34 carbs.  Looks like you are going with the Mik II BS34 carb per the tuning file xs750au sent you, although the principle is likely the same if you went with Mik 1.

xs750AU is giving you excellent info.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 12, 2016, 19:30:16
Ryan
They look very similar to the ones I am using. Should be fine as long as they seal. The little extra length will not matter if you are using pod filters.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 13, 2016, 08:30:41
Thanks tim!

Did you guys rebuild youre brakes...how the hell did you get that d**** clip on the rubber dust cap...there just a tiny ridge for it...is there a trick to it?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160813/f1b3a9cb75a2ccffdf7aa97354b23a44.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160813/52c8b6c2c604c97f8b2c8275084b54da.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 13, 2016, 22:35:46
Ryan
Confession time. I had never serviced the front calipers as they were working fine. I did put on braided hoses, but all I did was bleed the caliper. I had some kits, so with your question I thought it was time!!!!!
Pulled the caliper off and there was no dust cover or seals - bugger!!
So the photos below are the fitting of the rubber seal and dust boots. Note one kit had a rubber washer and one kit did not- no idea why? The schematic in the repair manual does show the washer, but it was oversize compared to the piston and appears to just sit on top of the caliper boss. So one side has the washer and one side does not.
The photos are the sequence of assembly - the wire clip goes on the outside of the boot to clamp the boot to the caliper boss.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 14, 2016, 00:12:49
Found the second rubber washer, so now they both have them fitted.
To get the metal clip on.
Have the boot fully seated down on the caliper boss.
With the clip on the boot, push one free end of the clip down into position and then work you way around to the other end. I used a blade screw driver to push it down.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 14, 2016, 14:06:09
Thanks tim!

Interesting there are just 4 parts on my brakes:

1.)the brake piston (chromed)
2.)the rubber boot
3.)a circlip the pin the boot dowm
4.)the seal that sits in the notch where the piston slides up and down.

The rubber seal (4.) that you show in your first pic above belongs into the notch IN the brake assembly...or am I missing something :-)?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 14, 2016, 19:16:15
Hi Ryan
Yes that makes sense. The trouble with the kits I had was that the rubber washer/seal was oversize. As you coul see in the photo it was the same OD as caliper boss. Do you you have a photo? Does it go on the piston? Or does it fit into the caliper  body?
Thanks
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 14, 2016, 19:17:28
I will send you a pic tomorrow my friend!
Cheers

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 15, 2016, 01:50:05
I did not get these rubber washers in my kit? Running without them and all is well so far.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 15, 2016, 01:52:21
The square rubbers you put outside of the piston, are they not simply the piston seals? Which are supposed to fit in a groove inside the caliper?
The notch on the piston is just for holding the rubber cover in place!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 15, 2016, 01:55:05
The piston seal is only just about the most important point of a hydraulic brake😁
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 15, 2016, 08:01:36
Agree Dave
They have got to fit into the caliper body - not on the piston.
The seals in my calipers are not leaking so I will take the spares out for when needed.
Thanks
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 15, 2016, 14:55:30
Agree Dave
They have got to fit into the caliper body - not on the piston.
The seals in my calipers are not leaking so I will take the spares out for when needed.
Thanks
Tim
Agree.

Today I dissaasembled another brake (rear).
Rubber washer sits in piston,reakly important to clean all the dirt thats behind seal.I use a dremel with a rubber polishing device,works nicely.
The rubber boot sits in a notch on the piston and getd pinned down with clip.

Think I found out why it was impossible to put the rubber boot back,I used petroleum on the other brakes in order to clean.....BIG mistake...seems to mess with the rubber.

They get new kits anyways...

Would you recommend buying stainless steel pistons,my stock ones look brilliant after I cleaned them...


(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/2b10ffe6daa8b92b47888132667ddccf.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/cb9da6330919928d6ef70800a4c954c8.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/4e9ef889a14af7ae288d22ab47cdda70.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160815/24f5f330db4f902466afdba6e405735f.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: semmins on Aug 15, 2016, 15:12:09
If there's no pitting on the outside of your stock pistons, no need to replace them.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 15, 2016, 15:13:55
If there's no pitting on the outside of your stock pistons, no need to replace them.
I heard that they do tend seize easier than the stainless ones...but I guess this only happens when you leave then unused for a long time.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jpmobius on Aug 15, 2016, 15:42:11
Brake fluid (most types) are quite hygroscopic which means it attracts and absorbs moisture.  That's why the pistons corrode if you don't swap out the fluid once in a while.  Stainless helps a lot to stop this (stainless still rusts under this sort of situation) but the fluid performance can go terribly wrong if allowed to accumulate enough water so you still need to change fluid at regular intervals.   I wouldn't use any sort of power tool on any interior brake part unless I was honing a bore which is these days pretty much a last resort.  I also don't let any sort of chemical near any brake components except brake fluid (anti-squeal vibration dampening goo and grease for sliding pins and housings being the exception), and commonly have a little bowl to dunk parts in as they get assembled.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 17, 2016, 12:18:15
Thanks Mobius for chiming in!

Ive been busy with minor things (life), the last days but ive collected a variety of new parts.
Just ordered new seal kits for the brakes,forks et cetera.

How do you guys decide if a fork needs servicing or not?
My fork seals seem to be good in shape (no oil or dirt whatsoever),the chrome on the fork legs is good, no pitting or scratches.
Would you guys just drain the fork oil and let it be?the forks seem to be a bit saggy, but that could also be because of the weight of the bike...there are some kind of adjusters on top, maybe i can just readjust them.

thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 17, 2016, 18:54:00
Hi Ryan
Don't let forks scare you, 1970s forks are very simple. As a minimum drain the oil and replace with new. After 40 years with a heavy bike resting on them the springs will have sagged. So a new set would make a difference. They are easy to get out. You may need to spray some penetrating oil around the end plug to free it up.  You push the end plug down 1 or 2 mm and with a small blade screw driver lever  out the retaining clip. The spring can then be removed. Once you have removed the spring you can wash the fork out and flush out any rubbish. New oil and springs at the correct length will make a difference.
Cheers
Tim.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 19, 2016, 04:43:51
Hi Ryan
Don't let forks scare you, 1970s forks are very simple. As a minimum drain the oil and replace with new. After 40 years with a heavy bike resting on them the springs will have sagged. So a new set would make a difference. They are easy to get out. You may need to spray some penetrating oil around the end plug to free it up.  You push the end plug down 1 or 2 mm and with a small blade screw driver lever  out the retaining clip. The spring can then be removed. Once you have removed the spring you can wash the fork out and flush out any rubbish. New oil and springs at the correct length will make a difference.
Cheers
Tim.

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Thanks Tim!
Then I guess I will do the forks too.What do you think about Progressive Springs for the XS?generally new springs are darn expensive (100 euros here in austria)...
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 19, 2016, 21:16:54
Hi Ryan
Originally they did not have progressive springs. I fitted Progressive Suspension part number 11-1117 to the 750 when serviced my forks. The XS factory spec states the free length was 503mm as you can see in the photo the original springs measure closer to 493mm. Not much sag but still have sag. The  Progressive Suspension 11-1117 free length is 521mm with a progressive rate. That meant a 18mm preload - they do bottom out (and thats not on the Paris to Dakar either!). I weigh 90Kg so you can judge from there how they would suit you.
Unfortunately there is not a lot of choice on spring rates that I have found. I believe Hagon sell fork springs but I have not got the data on them. Progressive do make a higher rated spring (11-1107) but it is only 457mm long, so would need a 50mm spacer, which is doable.
The longer springs you can see in the photos are from the XS750SE which is the basis for the 896 which I am building up. Their specified free length is 606mm and they are measuring 600mm. I am going to have a play with the 2D  springs which are currently measuring 493mm to see if I can reset them to 500+mm. Involves stretching and heat - just got to confirm the heat process. I believe it is just low temperature stuff though!! Anyone out there that has reset their springs???
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 21, 2016, 11:07:02
Thanks tim!
I will probably measure if my stock springs are saggy...they dp feel softer than my RD forks,but they have spacers inside in order to bear with the light front wheel :-)

Totally different question:ran across a guy who sells parts of his 850.
I think I will get the CDI box,since I want a spare box and probably convert my stock points to the 850 CDI.
Which parts will I need to get from the 850 to have a complete CDI ignition?

I guess:
-CDI box with cable string and plug
-flywheel?

Little bit lost here.

Next week my Yambits package wil arrove with a galore of parts...cant wait for workshop time :-)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160821/84e5819754f992926a1e78a2cb28d18b.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 21, 2016, 20:28:04
Hi Ryan
Yes you need the CDI box and then as you sit on the bike, everything under the left hand cover. That would include the pickup plate and rotor assembly including the M8 bolt. Basically everything down to the bare crank end.
Is there an oil cooler and adaptor plate on it? I would be interested - only if you don't want it?
Cheers
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 22, 2016, 04:42:55
Hi Tim!

Thanks!

For the oil cooler:Since my model is a stock 750 I guess I will need oil cooler,adapter plates, and the adapter (number 11 in daigram) for the oil cooler dont I?

For the CDI system:Am I right that I need: 5,7,8,10,11,6,9,15,17,16...the base plate does not seem to have a part number on cmsnl...
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 22, 2016, 05:34:56
Hi Ryan
Yes correct on the CDI = all parts you listed. The base plate I was talking about is #5.
On the oil cooler there are more parts = 11,17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 30 & 31 if they are there. 11 & 17 are the minimum to be useful.
While you are at it, didn't you have a charging problem? You should check the coils under the side cover on the opposite side to the ignition, do a quick check with a multimeter as per the previous post. If they are not open circuit then you are a step ahead. If there is a rectifier/regulator it would also be worth grabbing. From the photo the ignition coils have gone!
If you are really keen then the head would give you a step up in compression ratio from 8.5 to 9.5 and better cams - but how far do you go!!!
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 22, 2016, 07:55:29
Hi Ryan
Yes correct on the CDI = all parts you listed. The base plate I was talking about is #5.
On the oil cooler there are more parts = 11,17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 30 & 31 if they are there. 11 & 17 are the minimum to be useful.
While you are at it, didn't you have a charging problem? You should check the coils under the side cover on the opposite side to the ignition, do a quick check with a multimeter as per the previous post. If they are not open circuit then you are a step ahead. If there is a rectifier/regulator it would also be worth grabbing. From the photo the ignition coils have gone!
If you are really keen then the head would give you a step up in compression ratio from 8.5 to 9.5 and better cams - but how far do you go!!!
Good luck
Tim


Im thinking about buying the WHOLE 850 motor and putting it into my 750 frame, then I will have no need to mess around with my 750 to 850 conversion...

does the 850 motor fit into the 750 frame?

So I guess I will buy from this guy (if he makes me a reasonable offer):

-850 motor (with all the oil cooling stuff attached)
-oil cooler
-ignition box
-loom if in good condition (is it hard to modify the 750 stock loom to 850 cdi specs?)

the guy said that the motor ran till the end without any hickups,what should i check when I visit the guy?

thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 22, 2016, 09:10:54
Ryan
Getting the whole motor would be the most logical option, if the price is OK and you have enough space. You have to assume the motor is dead and needs to be rebuilt as there is no way to reliably test it as it is. I don't know of many people that just start striping their bike out if it is perfectly OK.You could bore it out to 896!!!
Good luck.
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 22, 2016, 09:39:14
Ryan
Getting the whole motor would be the most logical option, if the price is OK and you have enough space. You have to assume the motor is dead and needs to be rebuilt as there is no way to reliably test it as it is. I don't know of many people that just start striping their bike out if it is perfectly OK.You could bore it out to 896!!!
Good luck.
Tim

thats true!you cannot trust noone :-) but since both of my 750 motor would need a rebuild too, i wouldnt lose much....

does the 850 go into the 750 frame with no adaptations (kardan and frame mounts) or would I need to modify my frame?
is there a way to turn the engine over by hand (maybe when I take the left hand ignition roto with a wrench)?
Do the coils match the 750 ones too?

cheers and thanks man you are a great help!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 22, 2016, 18:59:43
Hi Ryan
Yes if you take the LH cover off there is a M21 nut you could use to try and turn it over. It should turn easily if it is ok, don't force it.
On my 2D the front mounts are incorporated into the frame. On the later SE the front mounts are made up using 2 plates that you remove = easier to get motor out. Engines have exactly the same mounting points, therefore interchangable.
The 850 is a better motor for you to start with.
Cheers
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 23, 2016, 08:00:28
Hi Ryan
Yes if you take the LH cover off there is a M21 nut you could use to try and turn it over. It should turn easily if it is ok, don't force it.
On my 2D the front mounts are incorporated into the frame. On the later SE the front mounts are made up using 2 plates that you remove = easier to get motor out. Engines have exactly the same mounting points, therefore interchangable.
The 850 is a better motor for you to start with.
Cheers
Tim

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Thanks Tim!

I will try that this saturday.I will have a good look down the spark plug holes if theres rust in the cylinders too...since we need to remove the exhaust too I will have a look into the exhaust outlets.

Should I go for the 850 loom too or is the modification for the stock 750 loom an easy task?

Just to make sure.Sorry to ask again man, will the 850 fit the 750 frame?


cheers!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 23, 2016, 09:16:13
Hi Ryan
I have never worked on an 850 bike, so I don't have personal experience. There are numerous posts where people have transplanted 850s into 750 frames, so I believe it is easy enough.
Body harness is all dependant on condition, the photo did not look like the wreck had been stored well?
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jcw on Aug 23, 2016, 10:19:26
Harnesses are not only different from 750 to 850, they are different year to year and even model to model. And not just lengths.

Best thing is to get the loom for that particular engine but you might be needing to buy certain relays or such. Usually they were for safety features and interlocks. For instance, the 81 850 H engine added a starting circuit cut off relay preventing the engine from starting unless the neutral switch was grounded.

I did the switch with an 850 engine into a braced 750 frame, but I also completely deconstructed the harness to build a racing harness without the safeties and lights. Not worth the effort, though.

Best thing to do is get the wiring diagrams for both and see what you will need.

(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd94/jcwk12r/yamaha/WP_20160428_21_16_52_Pro.jpg) (http://s220.photobucket.com/user/jcwk12r/media/yamaha/WP_20160428_21_16_52_Pro.jpg.html)

(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd94/jcwk12r/yamaha/WP_20160429_17_06_01_Pro.jpg) (http://s220.photobucket.com/user/jcwk12r/media/yamaha/WP_20160429_17_06_01_Pro.jpg.html)

(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd94/jcwk12r/yamaha/WP_20160429_20_48_02_Pro.jpg) (http://s220.photobucket.com/user/jcwk12r/media/yamaha/WP_20160429_20_48_02_Pro.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 23, 2016, 10:26:59
Harnesses are not only different from 750 to 850, they are different year to year and even model to model. And mot just lengths.

Best thing is to get the loom for that particular engine but you might be needing to buy certain relays or such. Usually they were for safety features and interlocks. For instance, the 81 850 H engine added a starting circuit cut off relay preventing the engine from starting unless the neutral switch was grounded.

I did the switch from 850 engine in a 750 frame, but I also completely deconstructed the harness to build a lightweight racing harness without the safeties and lights.

thanks jcw for the insight!
May I ask If you had to modify the 750 frame (motor mount wise) to fot the 850 motor?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jcw on Aug 23, 2016, 10:29:27
Nope. But I think I did have to buy shorter front mounting bolts. Or maybe I just lost the old ones.

added pics above.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 23, 2016, 10:32:15
Nope. But I think I did have to buy shorter front mounting bolts. Or maybe I just lost the old ones.

added pics above.

thanks man!stunning bike!!any videos of how its running, and especially sounding  :D?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jcw on Aug 23, 2016, 10:42:25
Runs perfect. Keihin carbs from a Triumph that have been rejetting (mains and pilots), shimmed (needle) and synced.
Starting is almost there. I just have to fiddle with the idle at start. Engine fires with a 2 second crank. I have to keep the idle up for about 5 minutes, then the idle shoots up and I turn the idle speed back down. After that, it's stable. Torque is really good for an old bike. I have a kz1000 and low end grunt is pretty similar. Power hangs on till probably 8500, redlines 9000. Of course top end power isn't gonna compare to a modern bike. I used to ride a zx-11d, zx-10r and k1200r.

I can post a vid of it running. It's a little loud with the short, straight through, cheap supertrapps muffler I scavenged from one of my old bikes, but the sound is unique for sure.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 23, 2016, 11:15:47
Runs perfect. Keihin carbs from a Triumph that have been rejetting (mains and pilots), shimmed (needle) and synced.
Starting is almost there. I just have to fiddle with the idle at start. Engine fires with a 2 second crank. I have to keep the idle up for about 5 minutes, then the idle shoots up and I turn the idle speed back down. After that, it's stable. Torque is really good for an old bike. I have a kz1000 and low end grunt is pretty similar. Power hangs on till probably 8500, redlines 9000. Of course top end power isn't gonna compare to a modern bike. I used to ride a zx-11d, zx-10r and k1200r.

I can post a vid of it running. It's a little loud with the short, straight through, cheap supertrapps muffler I scavenged from one of my old bikes, but the sound is unique for sure.

sounds good man.
im currently thinking about buying these carbs (dunno if they are keihins or mikunis) for my build...maybe I will get them...
would you recommend going straight to the triumph carbs? (it has been already covered in this topic, just want to know youre opinion)

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jcw on Aug 23, 2016, 11:29:21
They are the Mikuni carbs. Some Triumph owners go from Keihin to mikunis supposedly for a little more power. I have a set of both and find the Keihin better built. Parts, jets seems readily available for both.

The problem with the Mikuni cabrs is a tendency to wear the needle jet. So a used set of carbs may or may not have this problem.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/needle_jet_wear.html
http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodtriumph0900Kiehin.html

The Keihin carbs have metal slides instead of the plastic slides.
(http://www.triumphrat.net/attachments/t3-sport-touring-forum/13148d1238163192-mikuni-keihin-cv-airbox.jpg)

And the Keihin carbs I KNOW fit direct of the stock XS boots. I read that the mikunis retaining groove is different, but when I fit my set, it didn't seem bad.

sounds good man.
im currently thinking about buying these carbs (dunno if they are keihins or mikunis) for my build...maybe I will get them...
would you recommend going straight to the triumph carbs? (it has been already covered in this topic, just want to know youre opinion)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Garc on Aug 23, 2016, 12:21:49
Even though tuning my MKII's with pods was super easy, I'm thinking of trying a set of 38mm flatsides that I have on my Edge XCR 800 for fun.


(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l223/redrider910/Dsc00630.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/redrider910/media/Dsc00630.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Aug 23, 2016, 16:07:52
Go straight to the Triumph-Mikunis. There's a set for sale for 149 in Vienna (willhaben). Best mod I ever did to mine. I'll go for some VM36 on my XS750, but that's a thing of personal preference.

Cheers,
Greg
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 28, 2016, 09:10:40
So I started once again investigating into my ignition issues on my XS:

Battery seems to be dead (reads 12V cold,when I turn the starter it goes down to 8V...)
I guess I will try next weekend with a car battery and jumper cables.
Installed a new reg/rectifier.
There are 5 cables going from the stock loom to the reg/rectifier.3 white cables,is it important how these cables are plugged into the reg/rec?

Also no light and blinkers are working,no idiot lights (fuses are ok).any idea what could cause this complete failure of the lighting system?



The cables coming from the coil going to the ignition box are ok.
Changed plug boot.
No spark on cyl1.cyl2 and cyl3 have a nice bright spark.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/4b59cdb227ed405cf4099be92ac86429.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/3e19d20ce11a2ca41fc190175cba8001.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 28, 2016, 20:07:24
Hi Ryan
Without having a good power supply (battery at 13v), you are not going to get any reliable results. Start with the basics and get a good battery, then you can start your fault  finding.
Regards
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 29, 2016, 06:29:09
My regulator unit is sending 18-19 volts at 3k rpm with a busted battery. I think at least one cell is dead because even if it sits at 12.7 it drops to 6 volts immediately when i engage the starter.. running these systems with broken batteries seems to overload the charging circuits.
About your electrical troubles, go through every single connection and clean up All grounds, i bet you will have nice charging voltage along with a good battery. Also its a good thing that only 1 cyl has no spark, just need to check that coil and all leads. On my previous 750 all 3 pickup leads shorted on each other so all cylinders were firing simultaneously!
Bike was still rideable up till 5k rpm when all hell broke loose 😁 with  that fixed i only needed to repair the advancer mechanism and it was flying!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 29, 2016, 06:58:40
Thanks guys for your help,I will get a new battery as soon as I habe the funds,next weekend I will try it with a car battery.

Do you have any recommendations on batteries?
I know that I need cold cranking power and Ah...which types would you recommend?
Dont want to buy a lead battery..the bike will sit for a few months this winter so I need to keep this in mind.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 29, 2016, 07:13:35
Hi Ryan
Most batteries these days are reliable just a matter of what what you want to spend!!!
On the XS750 I am running a gel, 240 CCA and it is OK - cannot crank the engine when hot (well lubed hot pistons have higher compression, I think) but good at cold.
Husaberg is running a 210 CCA lithium Ion, very good but does loose charge after a month sitting.
TT250 - no battery at all just runs straight off the alternator - bloody reliable as it only has a kick start!!!!!
IT200 - 6V lead acid - difficult to get and a pain in the.

XS896 I am thinking a 240CCA lithium due to their small size. Probably will mainly kick start.

Don't think it is going to make any difference over winter which battery you get - they all need some trickle charging over winter.

Dave 19V from your regulator is way too high and will fry any battery.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 29, 2016, 07:31:19
Hi Ryan
Most batteries these days are reliable just a matter of what what you want to spend!!!
On the XS750 I am running a gel, 240 CCA and it is OK - cannot crank the engine when hot (well lubed hot pistons have higher compression, I think) but good at cold.
Husaberg is running a 210 CCA lithium Ion, very good but does loose charge after a month sitting.
TT250 - no battery at all just runs straight off the alternator - bloody reliable as it only has a kick start!!!!!
IT200 - 6V lead acid - difficult to get and a pain in the.

XS896 I am thinking a 240CCA lithium due to their small size. Probably will mainly kick start.

Don't think it is going to make any difference over winter which battery you get - they all need some trickle charging over winter.

Dave 19V from your regulator is way too high and will fry any battery.
Cheers
Tim

thanks tim for the insight, would you recommend running a bigger battery than the 240cca to cure the cranking issue?how do you start your engine when hot now?

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 29, 2016, 07:52:12
Not sure if a higher CCA would help my issue. From my understanding a higher CCA allows you to crank for a longer time. For me, when the engine is cold, it will crank it for a reasonable period. When hot, remember the battery is warm and absolutely fully charged and it will not turn one revolution! Wait 10 minutes and it will crank and start??? So when I need to start with a fresh hot engine I use the kick starter. My bike is always easier to start with the kick starter.
I chose the 240CCA as it was a little smaller and lighter. For me I quite like the look on peoples faces when you kick start a full sized road bike.
Sorry to say that batteries really do follow the rule - to more you pay the better the performance.
Cheers
Tim.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 29, 2016, 08:28:31


Hi Ryan
Most batteries these days are reliable just a matter of what what you want to spend!!!
On the XS750 I am running a gel, 240 CCA and it is OK - cannot crank the engine when hot (well lubed hot pistons have higher compression, I think) but good at cold.
Husaberg is running a 210 CCA lithium Ion, very good but does loose charge after a month sitting.
TT250 - no battery at all just runs straight off the alternator - bloody reliable as it only has a kick start!!!!!
IT200 - 6V lead acid - difficult to get and a pain in the.

XS896 I am thinking a 240CCA lithium due to their small size. Probably will mainly kick start.

Don't think it is going to make any difference over winter which battery you get - they all need some trickle charging over winter.

Dave 19V from your regulator is way too high and will fry any battery.
Cheers
Tim

Yea i know, cant really figure out why a brand new electrosport reg/rec would do that, except because of a broken battery.. my 30+ year old regulator does the job perfectly. Something to think about.. will try with a new battery.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 29, 2016, 08:47:25
Yep I had the same experience. I bought a new rectifier/regulator when I had my charging issues. The auto electrician went back to the original OEM unit as in his opinion the OEM unit had much better quality diodes . The modern "replacement" units use Chinese components.
My system is working well with the original OEM unit.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Garc on Aug 29, 2016, 14:22:32
I use a sealed AGM 200 CCA, plenty to turn the motor over cold to burn up your starter.  They say these are plug and play but I still gave it a bump with 10 amps for several hours, the battery voltage should be 12.5-13 sitting.    I'm seeing 14+ above 2K rpms with the charge system.
What is your key on/starter draw? 

And yes, these bikes are easy to kick over if you have enough voltage to make good coil spark.  I've build a high comp 2t 70 cc moped that was more difficult to kick, but the lever size obviously played a factor.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 31, 2016, 07:13:15
Hi guys!

So I retested my Battery once again yesterday, made a little video that shows cold, starter draw and when the engine is cranked over.

VIDEO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQ2Bu1-Wgzc

I guess I need to test that thing with a car battery to make sure it really gets enough voltage, no budget at the moment for a new battery.

As for the spark issue, i dont really think that a weak battery can cause 1 cylinder to have zero spark or can this be caused be the weak battery?

Thought about swapping the wiring of Cylinder 2 and 3 coils over to Cylinder 1 to check if the problem is the CDI box...would you try that?

thanks!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 31, 2016, 07:49:50
Hi Ryan
Your video shows exactly the same sort of readings I was getting with a non working charging system and a spent battery. A healthy battery should be much closer to 13 volts. My bike would start and run though, but very rough as it was dropping spark on cylinder #1.
Assume you have fitted the new carbi boots and the are no vaccum leaks? The vacuum ports for the petcocks and the centre cylinder are blocked. In my excitement I have sometimes forgotten to block the vacuum ports!
With your spark, if 2/3 cylinders have spark and share the CDI unit then I would investigate the components unique to the cylinder without spark, starting from the plug and working back.
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Aug 31, 2016, 07:54:10
White wires are the three phases of the alternator. Doesn't matter, which goes where.
Title: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 01, 2016, 16:06:46
Its aaaaliiiiive!!

Had some time today to investigate.
Unscrewed the sparck plug cable at cylinder 1 took 2cm of and reassembled....i got spark...then put the tank back on started that damn thing :-)
It runs really rough.i need to fas it to keep it alive,no idle,in the beginning only cyl 3 got hot the other ones were cold...got a little brake cleaner into 1 and 2 and got them running too...
I used the 'old' battery (already have a new one charging).
Cold 12.4 volts,starting it went down to 11 volts when I revved the engine it got up again to 12.2...thats not enough?
could the dead battery cause this bad idling issue?

Really intense popping from the exhaust and carbs (no air filterd yet).

Will post a video tomorrow!

   
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 01, 2016, 18:29:51
Well done.
Definately not charging, and the low battery can affect the running. Try tomorrow with new battery. You need to test the alternator coils with your multimeter to see if OK.
Popping could be air leaks on carbi side. Sounds like carbies need cleaning with carbi cleaner NOT brake cleaner.
Major step ahead, well done.
Cheers
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 02, 2016, 04:11:12
Well done.
Definately not charging, and the low battery can affect the running. Try tomorrow with new battery. You need to test the alternator coils with your multimeter to see if OK.
Popping could be air leaks on carbi side. Sounds like carbies need cleaning with carbi cleaner NOT brake cleaner.
Major step ahead, well done.
Cheers
Tim

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Here are three videos showing my efforts to start the lady.I tried tried to adjust the mixture screws (from Video 1 to Video 3 im going in with the screw,cuz it was popping like crazy, thought it was getting too much gas).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixEPmk-s7qo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbQmE898vlA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8oPtxlb9CY
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 02, 2016, 04:17:23
Screws should be around 2.5 out. If they are, then it is something else. Can you post a photo of the carbies looking from the top towards the cylinders, include the boots and cylinder in shot.
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 02, 2016, 04:21:40
Screws should be around 2.5 out. If they are, then it is something else. Can you post a photo of the carbies looking from the top towards the cylinders, include the boots and cylinder in shot.
Tim

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thanks!will do when Im back on the bike!

The middle carb boot inlet is blocked with a rubber thing, boot of Cylinder number 1 and 3 have a hose going to the petcock.
When I will run pods I guess I will need to block all 3 of these dont I?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 02, 2016, 04:32:53
Yes that answers my question. Just make sure the hoses are not leaking.
Could not hear the videos too well as I am out on date night.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Sep 02, 2016, 17:04:48
In all honesty: Fit the airbox or at least pods. CV-carbs require a bit of calm air around the slides.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 02, 2016, 20:01:49
Yes agree with Nano about getting the pods or airbox on.
It does sound like it is lean and  when you open the throttle it dies rather than accelerate. That means the fuel is not getting  through. Clean clean clean those carbies with carbi cleaner.  You must be able to see through all the jets. Check that the diaphragms are OK and the slides are raising and lowering.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 03, 2016, 05:31:37
Just shows you can F anything up if you try hard enough.
I made up a manometer today, to balance the carbies on my 750 (manometer worked well - cost $6). The tune was OK, by using a feeler gauge, but I thought the manometer would be better.
Got it balanced and running well. Then I made my mistake. It was a little rich when stating, so I played with the idle screws. 1/4 of a turn at a time but I have managed to bugger it up and now it sounds like yours Ryan!!!!!!!
Just shows if the balance and idle screws are out it will not run. I think I have driven the neighbours mad, so I am giving it a break and will get everything back to standard and start again tomorrow.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 04, 2016, 14:52:33
Hey tim!

I was lucky enough to aquire a Triumph Triple Carb for a reasonable price from the UK.I think I won't bother messing around with the stock carbs.
Will wait for them.
Put some pods on the stock carbs though,2 1/2 turns out...still just fires up cylinder3.
I will however in the meantime investigatr in my other electrical issues.

No lights,rear and front,no idiot lights,no blinkers.

Cleaned up the ground on the frame,fuses are all ok.
Am I missing something?
Are there more grounds on the frame?

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160904/b1ad7dfbe7c04ba98dc02436f79f4b79.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160904/71ea2e515d846911ff288f8ddc041476.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160904/2729ef1ff4c9e229d707f1bf7b1da4d8.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Sep 08, 2016, 20:02:50
Now I am not an expert, but that cut off plug... that's three phases, plus, ground and a sensing wire. Or in other words unless you have a magic reg/rect-unit in there, that'll have a VERY hard time doing anything. 8)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Sep 09, 2016, 06:40:38
Now I am not an expert, but that cut off plug... that's three phases, plus, ground and a sensing wire. Or in other words unless you have a magic reg/rect-unit in there, that'll have a VERY hard time doing anything. 8)
Yes. I wonder why he cut those?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 09, 2016, 07:09:06
This is the plug of the stock reg rec that is supposedly broken.
I didnt take the time yet to remove it from the bottom of the battery box.
The new unit is plugged in (had to use a different modern plug for the new unit).

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Sep 10, 2016, 12:11:20
... and you should mention that it only took about 3 minutes to find the reason, why it didn't run on all threes...  ;D

(Brake-cleaner is pretty awesome as a fault finding tool, don't you think?)  8)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Sep 10, 2016, 13:59:33
... and you should mention that it only took about 3 minutes to find the reason, why it didn't run on all threes...  ;D

(Brake-cleaner is pretty awesome as a fault finding tool, don't you think?)  8)
Leaky seals? :)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 10, 2016, 15:32:33
Mr.Nanno used brake cleaner to check if his assumption was right that my idle system is clogged...i will check when I'm back on the bike.
Idles are too small too.
Like you stated early data 45's are in the ballpark.guess somebidy messed around with them.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Sep 10, 2016, 19:29:34
Mr.Nanno used brake cleaner to check if his assumption was right that my idle system is clogged...i will check when I'm back on the bike.
Idles are too small too.
Like you stated early data 45's are in the ballpark.guess somebidy messed around with them.

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It would run anyhow, as long as the jets are clean. I upped my pilots because i run full open exhaust, oval pods, and 896cc with high comp head. My stockish 750 ran perfect with stock pilots.
I would advice you to be 100% sure your existing carbs are clean and flowing what they are supposed to Before you start buying jets 👍
Also verify the jet sizes currently installed first. Life gets easier with some method to the madness 😊
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 11, 2016, 06:29:29
Late night carb cleaning.

Jets and passages were clean.
Blow trough all orifices and jets,even the idles were clean.
I have no idea why there 17.5s idles in this carb....
Will swap for 42.5's and see what happens (manual says 42.5 should be stock).
Cylinder 1 float was maladjusted.
Do I measure float height with or without the float bowl gasket on the carb?

Thanks in advance!(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/b7be805695eb3e0d1f80abedac5af6be.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/34590ce95880186a27f48c5ef55dcc0b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/9896bbac50b45ff07f209767a987deda.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/a7355e4a21699fc6aa347f88af4fb350.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/548f7bb04144670c039991bfda59c9cb.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/1bdcb426ca28ce06bb66ebbd32aeb855.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 11, 2016, 07:14:30
Hi Ryan
The info you have is for the XS750E which had mark II Mikunis
Your bike is a XS750-2D with Mark I and 17.5 pilots were standard with 145 mains.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 11, 2016, 10:03:19
Thanks tim!

Do I measure the float height from the gasket surface with or without the gasket?

Just investigated more...what is the starter jet?idle and main is installed in the float bowl but where do I find the starter jet in the diagram?
Thank you!(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/ba6b63070d2950a6c7e200fbdc831127.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: advCo on Sep 11, 2016, 12:31:48
No gasket when measuring float height, but measure from the surface be gasket sits on to top of the float. I lean the carbs at about a 45* angle, too. Put them on the side so the floats are hanging away from the needle valve (not touching) then rotate them back until they are just barely touching the spring loaded pushrod at the top...to make sure the weight of floats themselves are not skewing your measurement


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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 11, 2016, 19:16:19
Hi Ryan
Bloody repair manuals, you can't live without then, but sometimes they send you crazy!
Apart from that listing, I cannot find any other reference. Now I have never worked on a BS34 series I, but the only other "jet" I know in the starter circuit is the air pilot jet. It is located in the air inlet area. On the series II there is a jet that is removable. If your series I also have a removable jet in the air inlet, I am guessing that is the starter jet????
Hope there is someone else who knows exactly online.
Cheers
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 12, 2016, 04:06:10
Looks like I might have found the issue...
Had a telephone call yesterday with the a german triples club member.
The starter jet is pressed into tje float bowl.
There is a brass tube running into that tiny orifice in the float bowl.
When I cleaned the carbs I forgot the clean that orifice thoroughly (the float bowl was filled with gummed up gas).
This is the reservoir for starting gasoline.
The tiny bore ends in a small hole which tends to gook up.
I currently soak it in carb cleaner...lets see...(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160912/9354c1bf692636a8b33c9011a4c02a5b.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 12, 2016, 04:44:45
Got to love the internet and modern communications.
One question - I thought you had bought a new set of Triumph Makunis? Why bother with these BS34 series I???
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 12, 2016, 04:49:58
Got yo love the internet and modern communications.
One question - I thought you had bought a new set of Triumph Makunis? Why bother with these BS34 series I???
Good luck
Tim

The "new "Mikunis didnt arrive yet...it takes 2 weeks (!!) for stuff to arrive from the UK going to austria.
Since I have 2 Xs 750s (the one im working on right now wills stay stock) I have to deal with that carb anyways :-)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Sep 12, 2016, 05:00:56
Late night carb cleaning.

Jets and passages were clean.
Blow trough all orifices and jets,even the idles were clean.
I have no idea why there 17.5s idles in this carb....
Will swap for 42.5's and see what happens (manual says 42.5 should be stock).
Cylinder 1 float was maladjusted.
Do I measure float height with or without the float bowl gasket on the carb?

Thanks in advance!(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/b7be805695eb3e0d1f80abedac5af6be.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/34590ce95880186a27f48c5ef55dcc0b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/9896bbac50b45ff07f209767a987deda.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/a7355e4a21699fc6aa347f88af4fb350.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/548f7bb04144670c039991bfda59c9cb.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160911/1bdcb426ca28ce06bb66ebbd32aeb855.jpg)

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First you need to verify the jetting for these specific carbs. Mk1's may or may not have a completely different fuel delivery system compared to mk2's. I dont know, i never read anything about them and only ever worked on mk2 carbs. 17.5 may well be the correct stock size.
Soaking may not suffice in cleaningg the fuel passage, probe it with a wire as well.
You measure float height without gasket.
And as i said in pm, those triumph mikunis have a reputation for rapid needle and needle jet wear, that is why they swapped to keihins on later models.
I would not buy them as they are fundamentally flawed.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 12, 2016, 05:17:10
Thanks data!
Checked and doublechecked,17.5'd are the right idles for the MK1 carbs.
I will blow them trough and check with a wire.
Which bike models had these keihin carbs?when I receive the carbs i will have look and probably send them back.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 12, 2016, 09:03:00
You have to at least stick them on and see what happens!!!
If they slip straight on, it would be too tempting for me to not try them.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 12, 2016, 09:08:33
You have to at least stick them on and see what happens!!!
If they slip straight on, it would be too tempting for me to not try them.
Jep that will definitely happen :-)
Just did a quick search...those cvk keihins are impossible to find for my XS...

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 12, 2016, 21:41:58
Agree that they are hard to find. I have been looking on and off for 2 years without luck. Thats why I have just concentrated on getting the BS34 series II working.
These Triumph Mikunis may still be better than the BS 34 series I!
Cheers
Tim.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 13, 2016, 04:17:40
Had some time yesterday to soak and blow out the tiny orifice in the float bowl...cant wait for the weekend to stick the carbs on fire that thing up...
I guess, since I have the carbs already I will also clean and blow out the choke assembly.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 13, 2016, 06:16:08
Agree that they are hard to find. I have been looking on and off for 2 years without luck. Thats why I have just concentrated on getting the BS34 series II working.
These Triumph Mikunis may still be better than the BS 34 series I!
Cheers
Tim.

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Since I want to be 100 per cent sure that no dirt from my gas tank messes my freshly cleaned carbs up I will use a separate gas tank.
Am I right that I need to plug up the Vacuum ports from the 3 inlets near to the carb mounting boots?
Cylinder 1 and 3 have hoses going to the petcocks.

thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 13, 2016, 06:54:55
Yes you need to block off all 3 vacuum ports. Don't make the same mistake I did and get an air lock in your fuel feed from the temporary fuel tank.
Good luck
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 18, 2016, 10:44:54
So guys..this bike is driving me crazy...

Carbs all cleaned and set (especially the tiny passages in the float bowl).

Checked for spark and now Cylinder 3 has no spark.
Replaced the spark plug cable and fresh spark plug.
No spark...so frustrating!
I guess I need to do a ground up electrical test...

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 19, 2016, 07:05:21
Hi Ryan
I feel your pain, been there. Most likely to be a poor connection or short in that circuit.
Good luck.
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 19, 2016, 07:36:14
Thanks Tim!

I have a question:
Where are the stock ground connections on a stock XS 750?
There is one ground mounted on the side of the battery box (cleaned that one up) is there another one on the frame?

Im asking this because I still dont have any idiot lights and lights no blinkers etc. so my guess was a malconnection ground wise.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 19, 2016, 08:22:17
Ryan
You are bringing back nightmares!!! Oh but the extacy when the bitch fires up.
Yes there  is a major earth point at the front left hand side of the battery box, but there MUST be a wire from that earth point directly to the negative terminal on the battery. That little wire cost me $1,400 - lesson learnt.
Once you get it going you will forget this pain!
Good luck.
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 19, 2016, 10:18:38
Ryan
You are bringing back nightmares!!! Oh but the extacy when the bitch fires up.
Yes there  is a major earth point at the front left hand side of the battery box, but there MUST be a wire from that earth point directly to the negative terminal on the battery. That little wire cost me $1,400 - lesson learnt.
Once you get it going you will forget this pain!
Good luck.
Tim

Thanks Tim i will check on that.
On my bike there are 2 grounds running together into a ring connector screwed onto the battery box (IIRC no connection to the - ground of the battery).
Is this the only stock ground on the frame?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 19, 2016, 20:26:32
Thanks Tim i will check on that.
On my bike there are 2 grounds running together into a ring connector screwed onto the battery box (IIRC no connection to the - ground of the battery).
Is this the only stock ground on the frame?
Your bike will have the battery negative lead connected directly to the motor. So now your earyh path is
Battery
Motor
Motor mounts
Frame
Rubber battery box mounts (insulation )
Battery box
Earth point.
And all the corrosion  and crap in between.
Running a wire directly from the negative terminal to the earth is infantly more reliable.
Cheers
Tim.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Sep 20, 2016, 03:13:29
Your bike will have the battery negative lead connected directly to the motor. So now your earyh path is
Battery
Motor
Motor mounts
Frame
Rubber battery box mounts (insulation )
Battery box
Earth point.
And all the corrosion  and crap in between.
Running a wire directly from the negative terminal to the earth is infantly more reliable.
Cheers
Tim.

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Use proper thick gauge wire as well, it needs to take the starter current.
Almost all my electrical problems on the last xs was ground related.. took me a week of cutting, cleaning and soldering.
Not to mention the regulator was using all current on resistance through bad connections and feeding the battery last. Man was i happy when i could use the starter again.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 20, 2016, 03:29:01
Use proper thick gauge wire as well, it needs to take the starter current.
Almost all my electrical problems on the last xs was ground related.. took me a week of cutting, cleaning and soldering.
Not to mention the regulator was using all current on resistance through bad connections and feeding the battery last. Man was i happy when i could use the starter again.
Sorry to argue Dave.
Yes the negative to the motor needs to take the starter current. But the fly lead from the battery negative to the earth point on the battery box can be normal harness gauge.
Ryan, it is the only earth point I am aware  of, but that was on my bike not yours!!
Good luck.
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Sep 20, 2016, 03:39:52
Sorry to argue Dave.
Yes the negative to the motor needs to take the starter current. But the fly lead from the battery negative to the earth point on the battery box can be normal harness gauge.
Ryan, it is the only earth point I am aware  of, but that was on my bike not yours!!
Good luck.
Tim

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Well, i am a confessed electrical idiot.. 😁 of course positive wire to the starter needs to handle the serious current, just that all bikes ive ever laid hands on have a seriously thick gauge ground wire from battery -terminal to ground and i just guess its that way for a reason, plus it seems to work better that way. If someone could explain why so a welder can understand i would be happy 😊
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 20, 2016, 05:00:29
Hi Dave
Sorry I probably was not clear and a bit abrupt with my earlier reply - Totally agree with you that on the starter circuit both the positive and negative need to be big beefy cables.
We were talking about the body harness earth. On my bike it runs a normal body harness gauge wire from the battery negative to the earth point on the front left hand side of the battery box  where the body harness earths all run from.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 20, 2016, 10:23:07
Hi Dave
Sorry I probably was not clear and a bit abrupt with my earlier reply - Totally agree with you that on the starter circuit both the positive and negative need to be big beefy cables.
We were talking about the body harness earth. On my bike it runs a normal body harness gauge wire from the battery negative to the earth point on the front left hand side of the battery box  where the body harness earths all run from.
Cheers
Tim

Thanks guys for helping me out!

Checked yesterday:

The ground on my battery bolts onto the motor with a thick gauge wire (checked with the mulitmeter, the wire is ok).
The ground point of the body harness (2 black cables going into a ring connector) bolts into a threaded point on the battery box.

Tried to connect a cable directly from the battery - to the ring connector (with the 2 black cables)--> still no idiot lights,headlight or wirking blinkers.

The only thing what is working light-wise is the tiny bulb in the headlight (but only in the last key position, all the way right)....



Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Sep 20, 2016, 10:36:54


Thanks guys for helping me out!

Checked yesterday:

The ground on my battery bolts onto the motor with a thick gauge wire (checked with the mulitmeter, the wire is ok).
The ground point of the body harness (2 black cables going into a ring connector) bolts into a threaded point on the battery box.

Tried to connect a cable directly from the battery - to the ring connector (with the 2 black cables)--> still no idiot lights,headlight or wirking blinkers.

The only thing what is working light-wise is the tiny bulb in the headlight (but only in the last key position, all the way right)....

Could be a corroded ign.switch?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 20, 2016, 10:43:08
Didnt check on that yet data!
Where would you start?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 21, 2016, 14:39:32
What can I say guys  8)  ....Im a happy guy!

Took some time to investigate once again into the spark problems...cleaned out all plugs (ALL THESE PLUGS SEEM TO BE SUPER RUSTED INSIDE)..and boom I had spark.
Connected the one coil which seemed to be gone to cylinder 1 and it had spark....connected it again to cylinder 3 plug from the CDi box and BOOM..spark...then she fired up!!!
After turning the mixture screws from the standard 2 1/4 half a turn in (1 3/4 now) she runs really nicely (lot of sputtering before).

I LOVE HER SOUND ON 3 CYLINDERS  ;D ;D ;D

Next step was checking if the XS would charge...no It wouldnt...as you can see in the video the bike stays around its 12.2 V even when I revv it....

Does the rectifier get its ground from the frame?does it need to be bolted down on the battery box?I replaced the stock one with a newer cause the PO said its broken....
If the rectifier is NOT grounded will it cause these issues?

Just for fun I installed a old reg/rec I got with the bike package and it regulated the voltage down from 12v down 5V-6V....

Help appreciated!! :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVWvPzdjcUc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7XRdnhmIgQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKOhXOppFDc
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 21, 2016, 19:14:56
Well done. She is running nicely

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 21, 2016, 19:25:19
Obviously your charging circuit is dead and it is just running on the battery voltage. From what you describe you need to disconnect all connectors and clean them. Also check the continuity of the wires going to the alternator they are prone to breakage as they leave the alternator cover. Refer earlier post. The regulator is earthed by the black wire from the harness, not the physical attachment to the battery box. Most likely the original regulator is fine, start with connections and continuity.
Well done.
Tim.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Sep 22, 2016, 04:21:58
Yey! 💪
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 22, 2016, 04:45:30
Hi Ryan
It really does sound to be running well considering the limited tuning.
Not sure if I have given you the regulator test method before - refer attached.

V2 in the test method refers to the voltage through the alternator energiser coil. Now while it says that if that voltage is no good then replace the regulator. The other point of failure is the green and brown wires into the alternator. I have 3 alternators, 2 of them have broken green or brown wires where enter the alternator cover.

V1 is the regulated voltage from the regulator.
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 22, 2016, 11:23:56
Yey! 💪

Thanks data for your support!

IIRC you did have problems with your alternator too?what did you do to overcome?

thanks
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Sep 23, 2016, 00:56:11
Thanks data for your support!

IIRC you did have problems with your alternator too?what did you do to overcome?

thanks
Alternator lead wires were broken on both and had to be soldered back together + a lot of corroded connectors on the left side of the battery box, where acid fumes had been venting on the alternator connecting blocks. And a poorly conceived ground harness made by p.o was reverted to normal function.
Not to mention that positive lead from rectifier went through all the loads before charging the battery, leaving the bike operational, but with a dead battery! Every problem after that i caused myself and can be read about in the build thread i think😁
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 26, 2016, 09:16:05
Guys,i bit the bullett and got me these BST36's off a Triumph Sprint 900....i little bit over my budget but I had to do it...will try them for now even though data's words on needle wear (keihins are impossible to get round here).
From the outside they look good,one of the vents on the carb top was not plugged off.I guess these should be plugged off?
Gonna take a look on the insides on the weekend.

Am I right that the brown fitting near the float bowls are for the gas and top ones (black plastic) are air vents?
What should I do with them when I run pods?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160926/78d20d0d01c1d1d2ee189f186011bee7.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160926/64f912ab79249ac7f469461f65d8b36a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160926/9f2ae0b59ec0f2c61ad72ec3a6810ae8.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Oct 02, 2016, 15:40:29
Hey guys!

Ran into a different problem this weekend on my front brakes.Just redid them with fresh seals and new pads.Now the left hand "base plate"which bolts onto the fork bottoms is impossible to get beneath the fork lowers.
Did any of you guys had this issue yet on your XSs?
Right side was super easy,left side is completely off,is it possible that the fork lowers are bent?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Oct 02, 2016, 17:57:29
Hi Ryan
A photo might help understand the problem.
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Oct 02, 2016, 22:41:20
Ryan
Are you sure you have the speedo drive and other spacers correctly installed on the hub?
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Oct 03, 2016, 09:39:03
Left hand fork can slide freely on the axle when not clamped down, made the mistake myself of clamping it too close to the wheel, misaligning the fork and rubbing the bolts holding the disc on some part of the brake. Try wiggling the fork out until the disc is in the middle of the bracket holding the brake piston.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Oct 06, 2016, 03:26:58
Regarding the vent on the carb top: As you kept the stock petcocks, you could get your vacuum from there as well (that's what it's used for on the trumpet). Lower vents have to be open and yes it does make sense to put on the longest hoses you can as dust won't get up the hose as easily.

As far as the brakes are concerned, they rest on a sliding pin and can be slid around, so you can offset them to the left and right.

Cheers,
Greg
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: JadusMotorcycleParts on Oct 06, 2016, 15:53:05
Awesome you got those carbs man.  Worth the money!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Oct 07, 2016, 17:30:00
Hey guys thanks for your comments:
Heres my issue with the left hand side brake assembly.
The black adapter plate has no space between the fork bottom and the brake disk.

I had no problems on the right hand side brake assembly.how can i solve this problem?

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161007/8c831cb4aefb34ad96decd920e8c4e11.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161007/361aa69244f657fa18b2c73ad2700afd.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161007/a626bca7d15c699c65e83ad0d9c4049c.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161007/55a5a6f0081d781bc8fabd3a8fde96d2.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Oct 07, 2016, 18:40:41
Hi Ryan
Dave is correct you slide the axle too far out of the fork leg. Dave has done it, I have done it and now you have done it, so you are not alone ;D
Just undo the clamp and at the bottom of the clamp and slide the axle into the fork (refer photo) and clamp and all will be good. Forks are usually bent back, not sideways.
Cheers
Tim.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jpmobius on Oct 07, 2016, 19:30:17
Hi Ryan
Dave is correct you slide the axle too far out of the fork leg. Dave has done it, I have done it and now you have done it, so you are not alone ;D
Just undo the clamp and at the bottom of the clamp and slide the axle into the fork (refer photo) and clamp and all will be good. Forks are usually bent back, not sideways.
Cheers
Tim.

Right.  The left side cap is the last thing you tighten when assembling the front end.  Mechanically, the idea is for the axle to tightly clamp all the components - spacers, bearings and the right side fork leg - together making the assembly very rigid.  Think of the assembly with just the lower fork legs and the spacers, bearings and axle without the wheel and the rest of the bike.  That whole assembly is the moving part of your front suspension and you would like it to be very strong and rigid so it does not twist and flex when you hit bumps.  Add a fork brace to the top and you have a pretty strong solid unit.  The front wheel just spins on the bearings clamped between the spacers, and is properly located between the legs due to the spacers that register off the right leg.  The left leg is free to "float" to its correct position after everything is together after which time you can clamp it down to the axle.  This is made this way so that there is less chance of binding up the two legs.  The two forks are made parallel by the top and bottom triple trees.  If the axle and related parts are not very precise and the left fork leg was part of the clamped up assembly, it would force the fork legs to potentially be too far apart or two close together which would cause the suspension to bind up as it telescopes.  In fact, after you have all the front end parts assembled and the axle tightened down, it is a very good idea to bounce the suspension up and down a bit before clamping the left fork leg around the axle.  That way it should be in the perfect position for smoothest fork operation. Once it's found its spot, clamp it down and your caliper should be in the correct place.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Oct 08, 2016, 11:03:56
Thanks guys for your fast support!I will try this as soon as Im back on the bike!

As for the "new" Mikuni carbs:Starting off with 42s and 137 mains.Needle Position is 4 counted from the the top,on how many turns of the mixture screws would you guys start out?

thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Oct 08, 2016, 13:25:31
Yes, just make sure you get the brake disc centered in the brake piston bracket and you will be golden!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Oct 09, 2016, 07:06:23
Hey guys!

This bike drives me crazy,in q positive and negative way....:-)

Investigated yesterday in my missing spark problem yesterday:
Found that the PO connected the stock loom with the igniton box with wobbly cheap connectors....replaced them with new connectors and boom spark on all 3....
Afterwards I popped the mikunis on...the bike started right up and revvs really nicely...
After a few minutes...Cylinder 1 spark gone...had no time to investigate further...maybe you guys have some advice how to procede...

I then followed your advice concerning the brakes...worked nicely...bled them and boom binded up brakes....what could cause this?
Researched and found that there is a tiny hole in the master cylinder which can cause this if dirty.

Thanks in advance!(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/4eae1b934cb76c77f9f2a0a55baec489.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/7bf5e654e769071f40b125ec6e981e4a.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Oct 17, 2016, 05:56:39
Spark problem solved!!!  8) 8) 8)

Looks like the Ignition box was the problem....had my good friend Der_Nanno coming along with two of his ignition boxes and booom strong spark on all three!
"new" box is already on the way!
she runs nicely on the SS carbs!


 solved the brake problem too,the axle was not centered...thanks data for clearing this one up!

started with opening up the forks..kinda got stuck on the dissassembly, how do I get the inner parts unmounted from the chromes fork stanchions?the manual says I have to push down the "keyed" top!
hope you can help me!

thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Oct 17, 2016, 07:16:21
Ryan
Good progress. I found it easier to disassemble with the forks in the bike. The triple clamps hold the forks really well, otherwise you need a strong vice with good soft faces (preferable with tube diameter hole to match tubes). I used a big screw driver to push down on the cap, while trying to lever out the retainer ring with the other hand - not easy. Impossible to do if you do not have a solid way to hold the fork tube (triple clamp or vice). Once you have done the first, it is much easier for the next.
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Oct 17, 2016, 07:36:43
Ryan
Good progress. I found it easier to disassemble with the forks in the bike. The triple clamps hold the forks really well, otherwise you need a strong vice with good soft faces (preferable with tube diameter hole to match tubes). I used a big screw driver to push down on the cap, while trying to lever out the retainer ring with the other hand - not easy. Impossible to do if you do not have a solid way to hold the fork tube (triple clamp or vice). Once you have done the first, it is much easier for the next.
Good luck
Tim

thanks tim for your quick answer!
fortunately I have good vice grips with lead faces...what kind of oil did you use and how many ccs?

cheers
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Oct 17, 2016, 08:38:44
Ryan
Good progress. I found it easier to disassemble with the forks in the bike. The triple clamps hold the forks really well, otherwise you need a strong vice with good soft faces (preferable with tube diameter hole to match tubes). I used a big screw driver to push down on the cap, while trying to lever out the retainer ring with the other hand - not easy. Impossible to do if you do not have a solid way to hold the fork tube (triple clamp or vice). Once you have done the first, it is much easier for the next.
Good luck
Tim
They are also A Lot easier to get out if you dont have spring preload at maximum like in the pics ;)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Oct 17, 2016, 08:56:07
Data i guess you mean putting them in the vice grips horizontally would be best dont you?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Oct 18, 2016, 04:43:12
Hi Ryan
No - the pre-load is adding tension on the internal spring making it more difficult to push the cap down.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Oct 18, 2016, 08:05:55
thanks tim for your quick answer!
fortunately I have good vice grips with lead faces...what kind of oil did you use and how many ccs?

cheers

200cc of 20W fork oil - must be fork oil, not engine oil.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Oct 18, 2016, 10:26:24
Thank you!managed to get the ring out of the fork tops!!

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Oct 19, 2016, 12:42:36
Both forks c8mpletely dissassembled...spring lenth is 49,4 cm...can I reuse them tim?

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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161019/95d13ad1171af215d64e3be7f830edcc.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Oct 19, 2016, 19:51:43
The spec length is 504mm and yours are 494mm which is a 2% sag. If you weigh about 90kg you have more options than if you weigh 120kg! If you are on the heavy side get new springs. The other option is to put a 10mm spacer to take up the loss. Someone has retro fitted the preload adjusters onto your forks. Your bike did not have preload adjusters. You could just set max preload if you are 90kg or less.
Choice is yours, as is the budget.
Cheers
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Oct 20, 2016, 05:16:37
The spec length is 504mm and yours are 494mm which is a 2% sag. If you weigh about 90kg you have more options than if you weigh 120kg! If you are on the heavy side get new springs. The other option is to put a 10mm spacer to take up the loss. Someone has retro fitted the preload adjusters onto your forks. Your bike did not have preload adjusters. You could just set max preload if you are 90kg or less.
Choice is yours, as is the budget.
Cheers
Tim

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Thanks man!I'm on a budget...so I will choose the max preload method.
Since I weight about 85 kgs I guess it will be ok

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Oct 20, 2016, 06:38:08
Can not argue with that, should be fine.
Later on if you find you do bottom out, it is very easy, now you know how, to pop the caps, pull out the old springs and put in new with the forks in the bike.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Nov 02, 2016, 16:04:19
The spec length is 504mm and yours are 494mm which is a 2% sag. If you weigh about 90kg you have more options than if you weigh 120kg! If you are on the heavy side get new springs. The other option is to put a 10mm spacer to take up the loss. Someone has retro fitted the preload adjusters onto your forks. Your bike did not have preload adjusters. You could just set max preload if you are 90kg or less.
Choice is yours, as is the budget.
Cheers
Tim

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Those are exactly the same preload adjusters that are in my forks.. are you sure? Mine is a standard 78 i think..
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Nov 03, 2016, 05:22:44
Those are exactly the same preload adjusters that are in my forks.. are you sure? Mine is a standard 78 i think..
Dave you are correct - the 78 was the E release which got the CDI ignition, lower middle gear ratio, higher compression ratio, hotter cams and adjustable forks. I thought Ryan's was a 1977 2D which is the same as my 750, but I could be wrong.
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Nov 03, 2016, 06:14:31
Dave you are correct - the 78 was the E release which got the CDI ignition, lower middle gear ratio, higher compression ratio, hotter cams and adjustable forks. I thought Ryan's was a 1977 2D which is the same as my 750, but I could be wrong.
Tim

Hey guys! Long time no hear.

Ive been busy with life and Im still waiting for my "new" CDI box from Canada....takes about 1 month to austria...

As far the forks:

I have 2 XSs.I decided to swap motor and shaft drive from my completely stock XS to my other XS (on which I serviced the forks with the adjustable tops).
Im currently taking all the bits and pieces, cleaning them,painting them, blasting them one by one.

I have 2 motors both standard with the point igntion, the one im going to swap in on the frame has the CDI ignition of the 850.

I have a question for you guys: Did the cylinder valve cover change over the years? I have one in spare and want to scotch it but i dont want to invest time in something that wont fit later...

thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Nov 03, 2016, 08:02:31
Hi Ryan
Yes I have been distracted myself - fishing. Need to indulge while they are biting. I am riding the 750 to work tomorrow, just to keep the motivation up.
From my understanding the heads are interchangeable so I would assume the same for the valve cover. To be sure I would just try fitting to the intended engine first.
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Nov 14, 2016, 15:18:41
Hey guys!

been busy with life, still waiting for that DARN ignition box from  canada...
Meanwhile had some time to start "refreshing" parts and getting my workshop (its actually a really small room) in shape.I was just annoyed of losing tools all the time...


No news engine till now.But I wanted to share some eye candy with you guys!

Had some parts bead blasted and afterwards I used some scotch brite to get the finish I wanted, a little steel thingie on the dremel and I got into the corners which I couldnt reach with the scotch brite (red).

Next up will be completing the front end (forks are serviced).Need to renew the wheel bearings, new rubber (Heidenau K65) and paint the front wheel!

busy busy busy
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: JadusMotorcycleParts on Nov 14, 2016, 16:21:53
Looking good!  I like the finish you got on the engine covers  :D
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Nov 21, 2016, 11:35:29
Looking good!  I like the finish you got on the engine covers  :D

Thanks Jadus!If you need any details, let me know!

I have great news, the ignition box arrived and under the influence of a few beers I was able to "complete" my stock XS 750 back together.

She starts extremely well now, even cold, spark on all 3,carbs need synching no question but Im relieved now.
Rear brake is bled and ready to go so I guess I will make a short testride the next weekend!

If the gearbox is ok, i will swap this motor and shaft over to my modified XS.

What kind of oil are you guys running?
I would go for the 15w40 mineral oil in the motor and 75w90 gl4 oil for shaft and middle section.

any tips for changing the oils.

I would let the motor run warm on the mainstand and in first gear, turn the motor of, drain the oils and refill with a new oil filter.is this ok?

thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Nov 22, 2016, 03:33:17
Hi Ryan

For a standard oil change your process is correct.
On old bikes after draining the oil I always remove the sump and clean out all the build up of gunk (technical term for shit) that will have accumulated over the years! That is what I do anyway.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Nov 24, 2016, 11:07:03
Hi Ryan

For a standard oil change your process is correct.
On old bikes after draining the oil I always remove the sump and clean out all the build up of gunk (technical term for shit) that will have accumulated over the years! That is what I do anyway.
Cheers
Tim

Thanks man for the info!Will do!

Another question: I ran into a strange problem: The XS with running motor  moves forward even when the clutch is pulled in...I guess that my clutch cant fully disengage.How would you go about?
 I guess I will try to readjust the clutch cable on the lever...hope this will solve the problem.

Cheers
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Nov 25, 2016, 06:59:02
Hi Ryan

First remove all tension off the cable.
The main adjuster is down on the transmission. Where the cable ends down on the left hand side of the transmission there is a small (about 40mm diameter) black plastic cover.
Pop the cover off.
Under that is a 14mmAF lock nut with slotted screw projecting through it.
Just crack the lock nut undone.
With a blade screw driver, turn the screw in until it just bottoms.
Back the screw off 1/6th of a turn.
Tighten the 14mmAF lock nut.
Replace the plastic cover
Use the cable adjuster at the lever to get about 5mm of slack movement at the end of the lever.

If it is not OK after that = clutch repair. :'(
Good luck
Tim

PS - bloody good Snapper season so not much bike work being done!!!!! ;D
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Nov 30, 2016, 05:49:39
Hi Ryan

First remove all tension off the cable.
The main adjuster is down on the transmission. Where the cable ends down on the left hand side of the transmission there is a small (about 40mm diameter) black plastic cover.
Pop the cover off.
Under that is a 14mmAF lock nut with slotted screw projecting through it.
Just crack the lock nut undone.
With a blade screw driver, turn the screw in until it just bottoms.
Back the screw off 1/6th of a turn.
Tighten the 14mmAF lock nut.
Replace the plastic cover
Use the cable adjuster at the lever to get about 5mm of slack movement at the end of the lever.

If it is not OK after that = clutch repair. :'(
Good luck
Tim

PS - bloody good Snapper season so not much bike work being done!!!!! ;D

Will do Tim thanks for the input!

Im a little lost here with changing the oil on that thing and cant find something in the manual either....
Heres a little pic where I marked the different screws maybe someone can help me out.

I need to change all 3 oils (engine, middle gear and shaft).
How would you go about on the engine oil?
 
Are 2 and 4 the drain screws for the oil filter and sump?
what is number 1 for?

is it normal that on number 5 that there are no screws in there?
the engine leaks a bit of oil maybe this is the place where it loses the oil...

are the number 3 screws (hex inbus heads) the screws holding the sump to the engine?

hope you can help!

cheers from austria!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Nov 30, 2016, 06:49:46
Hi Ryan

#4 drains the engine oil
#2  is to remove the oil filter, remove after draining oil. It will be full of oil so you can make a mess!!!!
#1 was only on the pre 78 models and was to fill the oil filter after changing the filter.
#3 are the cap screws that attach the sump to lower case

The middle gear drain plug is down low at the back of the transmission. When you change the middle gear be very careful to fill with the exact amount of oil. If you overfill it, when it gets hot and expands it is known to blow out the seal
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Nov 30, 2016, 11:08:55
Hi Ryan

#4 drains the engine oil
#2  is to remove the oil filter, remove after draining oil. It will be full of oil so you can make a mess!!!!
#1 was only on the pre 78 models and was to fill the oil filter after changing the filter.
#3 are the cap screws that attach the sump to lower case

The middle gear drain plug is down low at the back of the transmission. When you change the middle gear be very careful to fill with the exact amount of oil. If you overfill it, when it gets hot and expands it is known to blow out the seal
Cheers
Tim

Thanks tim for the great info!I will let you know how it went this weekend!
Another rhing i need to replace are the front wheel bearings.I already performed that on my KZ400 but the front wheel assembly looked a bit different.

This is how I would do it:
Use a long thin steel round bar and slide into the center "hole" were the axle sits, carefully "pry" into the "slot" between the bearing and the axle bushing and carefully drive out the wheel bearing on the right hand side (left hand side has the attached assembly for the tacho drive).Of course I would heat it up around the aluminium to get it out easier.

Im just not sure if this is the right way to do it...but it seems logical since the left hand side assembly cannot be driven out.

thanks for your help!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Kamn on Nov 30, 2016, 12:12:13
the left bearing can be driven out as well, you need to remove the retainer ring and tach drive ring.
Here you can see the parts exploded  http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xs750-1978-usa-canada_model8668/partslist/E-05.html#results
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Nov 30, 2016, 17:46:43
Hi Ryan

As per Kamn and!
Don't like to "pry" bearings out as the castings are always softer than the bearings, so the seats will get damaged. Heat always helps. Get everything ready, and then work quickly. If you have a gas torch or electric heat gun it will be easier. You need to heat the wheel hub - not the bearing, until you cannot hold your finger on it!!! Flip the wheel over,then using a bar that can go through the opposite side bearing, place it on the inner race and give it a good hit with the biggest hammer you have. Then the next hit on the opposite point, then at the quarter points, and keep working around the bearing! They usually come out with a couple of hits.

The other bearing will be similar but easier as access is better.

Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Dec 01, 2016, 05:56:05
Put the wheel on a cooker / cooking plate and heat it up (gently). You'll hear a *boing* that's when the bearing has fallen out. New bearings should be cooled in the freezer and installed into the heated wheel-hub.

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Dec 01, 2016, 17:32:24
Now that's cooking!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Dec 01, 2016, 17:37:38
Put the wheel on a cooker / cooking plate and heat it up (gently). You'll hear a *boing* that's when the bearing has fallen out. New bearings should be cooled in the freezer and installed into the heated wheel-hub.
Awesome idea.will do!

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Dec 07, 2016, 12:22:42
Hey guys!

So I had a productive weekend! Changed nearly all oils on the XS, Shaft and middle gear oil and drained the motor oil.
Motor oil looked good, no chunks or metal pieces whatsoever,ran a magnet trough it, no steel pieces in there.  8)
Im currently dropping the oil sump, which is quite a task, many screws, some are hard to reach but I will dig trough it ;-)

Also finally had time to change the wheel bearing on the front, the cooker method worked a treat!the bearing were frozen when I took them out of the freezer and sunk just right in!

So I guess after cleaning the oil sump I will refill the motor oil, fill up the oil filter case to the level where screw sits and then take a little spin and let you guys know the result (might take a while its freezing here in vienna).  :D


Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: semmins on Dec 07, 2016, 19:12:11
Not sure if anybody's already mentioned this.
While the sump's removed it might pay to clean the oil strainer with some solvent.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Dec 08, 2016, 07:49:56
Hey semmins!

Thanks for chiming in!
Where can i find the oil strainer?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: semmins on Dec 08, 2016, 09:38:05
Once you've removed the sump, you can easily see the strainer.
If I'm not mistaken it's held on to the oil pump by 3 M6 bolts.

Part no 23 on the diagram.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Dec 12, 2016, 11:44:10
Thanks guys for your input!

Yesterday I finally had the time to get the back out on the street and make a testride,looks like the clutch is really on the piss.

When I pop in first gear and pull the clutch in, the bike still wants to go forward, impossible to move the bike back (which makes turning in a tight area impossible  ;D ).
I tried different set ups, with the locknut and screw but I guess the screw needs to go in further in order to have more pressure on the clutch pushord, the litle steel ball is inside so it must be clutch adjustment or a broken clutch...
Where is the point of the adjustment screw where i need to stop screwing in and start screwing out?Is it actually the point where the screw gets " fine resistance" (similar the adjusting mixture screws on the carb).Maybe I was too careful....

Hope you guys can help!

little video of the ride

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu3RfFZSO58
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Dec 12, 2016, 13:01:30
It'll be quite a notable resistance, mind you. Stop a tad short before mangling the head of the adjuster ;-)

Seriously, unhook the cable on the lever and screw the adjuster in completely, than back out "a tad". Somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 turn.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Dec 12, 2016, 15:02:33
Probably only adjustment. These clutches take a while to wear out.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Dec 13, 2016, 10:50:49
It'll be quite a notable resistance, mind you. Stop a tad short before mangling the head of the adjuster ;-)

Seriously, unhook the cable on the lever and screw the adjuster in completely, than back out "a tad". Somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 turn.

Will do!Hope then I can finally feel that machine pull!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Dec 13, 2016, 11:42:49
You may want to have some spare undies at the ready.  ;)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Dec 25, 2016, 13:38:52
Merry Xmas my friends!

Had some time again with the XS.
Couldnt solve the clutch problem,even with the adjustment screw screwed all the way in,the bike would still move slowly forward with the clutch pulled in.
It even made it worse when I went all the way in (i tried many different ways).
Had some time to mock up my front end,slow but sure progress.

I have a tank question: I would like to change my stock 750 tank to something more compact do you guys know any tank that could fit tunnelwise?
Cheers and thanks!

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161225/a7011ea3f93d41f6172bc3134e00fd33.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161225/0c0c981beddc905e7c6eb8baba377612.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161225/eb7951874311b1951ad42518ea70e113.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Dec 25, 2016, 13:57:09
SR500 (available in 12 and 14 litres) should work, I can try it on mine and let you know. If you still get the clutch creep, it might in fact be the missing pushrod-ball.

Cheers,
Greg
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Dec 25, 2016, 18:19:58
SR500 (available in 12 and 14 litres) should work, I can try it on mine and let you know. If you still get the clutch creep, it might in fact be the missing pushrod-ball.

Cheers,
Greg
Thx nanno for your tip!so i guess i'll have a check on the clutch side of the motor.
Checked the parts fiche and there should be a steel ball behind the clutch plate.
The clutch doesnt fully engage even when I screw the adjustement all the way in...lets see!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161225/634cb187f743090a4593b4533b200393.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Dec 28, 2016, 13:15:20
So I ran into a problem removing the clutch side cover...all screws removed,cable of the generator of the generator has enough slack but still doesnt move more than 2MM.is the whole side cover held by more screws from the inside?how can I get that thing of :-)?
Thanks in advance!

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161228/7709a8887829305a40dd07e66231924b.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Dec 29, 2016, 01:16:20
Its a close fit between rotor and stator thats causing this, you also need to remove the wire clips on the bottom of the crankcase to remove the stator assembly.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Dec 30, 2016, 10:11:38
Finally I was able to take that thing....had to take the small with the stator of then get rid the of the stator.
How can I take off the main chain and the assembly that sits on the clutch basket?I removed a snap ring but cannot slide off the whole thing.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161230/0b827674deb34fc4967595fb9c3ac2da.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161230/9e8655078d3a80689545eee84efe7f89.jpg)

Thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jan 01, 2017, 09:13:19
There are two of them. ☺
At this stage you actually need a workshop manual. But take the two snaprings off, and the large shock absorber unit will come out. Then you remove the drive chain and sprocket. After that clutch outer basket can be removed. Then i think its just a matter of removing the six screws  holding the pressure plate. Be sure to withdraw them evenly to avoid side loading. And on reassembly, dont torque them. Very fragile threads, just put a drop of loctite 243 on and tighten til they bottom out, no more. Good luck!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jan 01, 2017, 09:31:08
There are two of them. ☺
At this stage you actually need a workshop manual. But take the two snaprings off, and the large shock absorber unit will come out. Then you remove the drive chain and sprocket. After that clutch outer basket can be removed. Then i think its just a matter of removing the six screws  holding the pressure plate. Be sure to withdraw them evenly to avoid side loading. And on reassembly, dont torque them. Very fragile threads, just put a drop of loctite 243 on and tighten til they bottom out, no more. Good luck!
Hey data!happy new year :-)

Thanks for your insight,last night I pretty much removed everything off the clutch (down to the inner clutch basket which is held by a giant nut).
There is some wear on that basket,so I will probably replace this.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/367ec8f35feab1e64eea3e6bf77b69a7.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/1a84b394655935e7bf69935d9af27823.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/232fd6d873ce30d72bae49faa0e85aca.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170101/9fe80304683f3029ab2634b03b7b2ab4.jpg)
The steel ball was in there so this could cause the problem.
I wasnt able to remove the pushrod,even when trying to push it trough from the outer side (i removed the blocking steel bar which is seen in the pic before I tried that).
Is this normal that one cannot push trough the pushrod?

But I think I found the reason for the clutch problem:
Dissassembled the clutch on my parts bike and there is a giant snapring missing on my stock bike!!!!maybe the PO forgot that ring...could this missing ring cause this?

The giant snapring inhibts the 'outer ring' of the assembly from moving in and out.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jan 01, 2017, 09:35:17
There are two different types of clutches, the later does not use the big snap ring. Which year is your parts bike and your project bike?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jan 01, 2017, 09:35:45
Happy new year to you too :) also in the garage here..
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jan 01, 2017, 09:36:41
Basket looks fine by the way. That small wear can be filed down, but doesnt look necessary.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jan 01, 2017, 09:36:56
There are two different types of clutches, the later does not use the big snap ring. Which year is your parts bike and your project bike?
I'm not sure.I think they are both 1977 1T5's....
The project bike has no snap ring but there is a groove for the ring...
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jan 01, 2017, 09:39:00
You can see the difference on the parts,  the drive sprocket that uses a snap ring has a deeper groove in it, the other one does not!
They also need the correct shim between sprocket and clutch basket.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jan 01, 2017, 09:40:44
Ah. Better put one there then! I have one spare since my bike does not use one. 😊
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jan 01, 2017, 09:52:03
You can see the difference on the parts,  the drive sprocket that uses a snap ring has a deeper groove in it, the other one does not!
They also need the correct shim between sprocket and clutch basket.
Thanks data!
I will check on how the clutch plate is marked.IIRC the have the same 'name' casted onto them.

The groove is there and I will take the ring out of the parts bike and check if the grooves are the same.

Is it normal that one cannot 'push out' the pushrod?

Is there a good way on how to check on the main chain?Are there specs on the slack of the chain?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jan 01, 2017, 10:08:10
Push rod should be a smooth sliding fit. Yours may be stuck and causing problems?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jan 01, 2017, 10:48:35
It slides like 3-4 cm back and forth smoothly.
My guess is that one the rod is only removable from the left side.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jan 01, 2017, 11:23:50
I never thought about it really, but i do think pushrod can be inserted from the right side. Dont remember how i did..
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jan 01, 2017, 11:25:08
And about the chain - when it hits the case it starts to make bad noises. Most people change it, but tensioners kan be made to get may extra 1000kms from it.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 05, 2017, 12:47:46
Hey guys!

Long time no hear,didnt have lots of time to work on my project.
Life and health issues interfered with my ambitions.
I'm still stuck with the faulty clutch.
Right hands side (generator side) is sorted and should be fine.
Next step will be opening up the ignition side and check the actuation mechanism and checking the pushrod and pushrod seal (which seems to leak oil).
My last bet on that problem is either a completely dry and dirty mechanism or a worn pushrod (my parts bike had a massively worn pushrod,so I guess this isnt uncommon).
Anything more I should look out for?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170205/1923cbecea14042875fe849bffe4387d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170205/d46e9bb673abcaa823ce62aa9b4d8358.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170205/6cac6743efec6dabc509adc32c95822f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170205/345da0da5ede576be69e8b6273084916.jpg)


Steps will be:
-removing all case bolts on the left hand side
-turn crank till ignition mark shows 1F
-remove middle bolt thst holds ingition on the crank
-then remove the ingition plate and then the whole assembly

When I reassemble I need to be really careful cuz of the dissappearing crank pin which aligns the ign. Advancer...beware of the dissapearing crank pin :-) !

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Feb 05, 2017, 13:28:37
I made a slightly longer one.   it wont disappear!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 05, 2017, 20:10:35
I made a slightly longer one.   it wont disappear!
Hi Dave.
How did you get the original pin out? There is not much to grip.


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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Feb 06, 2017, 00:40:25
Pliers and a magnet i think?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 07, 2017, 07:43:30
How much oil would you guys drain in order to work on the left side?


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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: irk miller on Feb 07, 2017, 10:14:15
How much work are you doing?  Sometimes, I just put the bike on it's side and don't drain anything for in the field repair.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 07, 2017, 10:34:48
How much work are you doing?  Sometimes, I just put the bike on it's side and don't drain anything for in the field repair.

Thought about that too but since i dont know how long the bike will stay in that position (i need the check which seals to refit and order them)
My money is on a worn pushrod...hope the replacement will be here end of this week.
 i guess I will need to drain some...the bike has around 3 litres of oil...

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Feb 07, 2017, 12:21:11
If you remove the clutch cover usually just a bit more lean than on the sidestand will be enough
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 08, 2017, 05:34:57
Right hand side was no problem with the bike on the sidestand.
As for the left side, which I will be working on this weekend I hope it will be sufficient to drain 1-2 litres of oil,guess it would be better to drain all oil, refill the oil filter housing and then refill all the oil.

As for the crank pin, I guess I will settle on putting a small ball bearing behind it to keep it from retracting and making a fool out of me  :D

Have you guys already exchanged the pushrod seal on your XSs?
I guess I will need to carefully drill a little hole into the seal then use a wood screw to pull the seal.
Made a little research--> It is really important to debur all surfaces that touch the new seal,or it will leak, the seal is a special make since the pushrod spins freely and transports oil, the seal has a slight "turn" to hinder oil from dripping out of there.

Just ran into this interesting Yamaha sheet, showing how the factory already struggled with the design of the pushrod-seal...looks like the vibration caused by the pushrod caused these issues...thats why they retrofitted bushings ...see here:

http://www.yamahatriples.com/files/3413/5405/0315/77e_003_oil_leak_clutch_pushrod.pdf
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Feb 08, 2017, 07:51:09
I built mine from scrap and parts so all new seals there
No leak yet but i wasnt aware there was excessive clearance between pushrod and axle. Must have already been fitted with a bush.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 13, 2017, 12:43:00
Hey guys!

So I had a week-end full of work on the XS750:

-Removed ignition plate (XS 850 ignition type)
Pretty easy and straight forward,I used a wrench to carefully turn the nut till the lobe was aligned with the opening in the ign.plate then removed the 3 screws with the plate, then I removed the advancer mechanism which is "aligned" with the crank pin (was already welded in by the PO, so no problemo there  :) )

-Checked the pushrod
The pushrod had little wear marks (nothing I would consider as problematic), the pushrod seal was replaced by (I will need to redo that, since I broke the seal when I drove it in,misaligned...)

-Cleaned and re-greased the clutch mechanism
It was not that easy to get all the little steel balls back into place, but after a few trys it worked.

So I ended up with a slighlty better clutch situation but with a leaky pushrod seal  :'( ....this needs to get fixed next weekend.

Had some time to call the PO:

He told me to:
-Clean and check the clutch plates (steel and friction)
-Clean and dissassemble the clutch dampener (can this really cause this issue???)
-Check for the steel piece thats pushed against the clutch plate with the steel ball (if its positioned right and if its free to move)
-Check the pushrod for free movement
-Check for wear on the basket-->There is light wear on the baskets-->how would you guys dress this wears down?

So I guess I will need to make a full left and right hand side tear down next week-end....
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 13, 2017, 22:40:30
Hi Ryan
In the clutch actuator with the little ball bearings did you check that there was also a larger 6mm ball that takes up the thrust of the pushrod when you pull the clutch?
If it has fallen out the clutch will not work!
Cheers
Tim

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 14, 2017, 04:21:19
Hi Tim!

Yes,the steel ball is inside.
And the assembly is freshly greased.
Guess I need to check the clutch side AGAIN :-(.

-checking steel plates for warpage
-checking friction plates


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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Feb 14, 2017, 05:21:53
I bet a pint that the steelies aren't warped. (Because we checked them together, remember?)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 14, 2017, 08:17:44
I know Nanno!And the friction plates too!This thing is driving me mad :-)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Feb 14, 2017, 12:46:39
Course it does... it's what those old girls do best.   ;D
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 14, 2017, 16:25:29
So i settled on checking AGAIN everything plus changing the friction plates for fresh OEM ones (the PO gave me six of them,so i'm lucky) plus new clutch springs (also from the PO).
Clutch pushrodseal needs an exhange and I will put on two new gaskets for the cases since the ones now are in bad shape.

Lets see if the gods will let me have freedom finally
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 15, 2017, 00:34:39
Hi Ryan
The clutch will not release, is that correct?
Have you checked that all the plate washers are there and have not been replaced with a dodgy alternative? Ref #23,26,31 &32
From my understanding assembly #17 is held in a fixed position and then the pushrod moves #13 away to allow plates to slip. So if a washer is missing there may be additional free play that cannot be taken up could be the problem.
The clutch actuator mounting can also be f'd up - I have done it (had the engine stripped for 12 months before reassembling)! There is a small alloy housing on the inside of the side cover that is held on by 2 screws that mounts the clutch actuator to the side cover. If that is put on the wrong way there is not enough adjustment to actuate the clutch!
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 15, 2017, 08:28:44
Hi Ryan
The clutch will not release, is that correct?
Have you checked that all the plate washers are there and have not been replaced with a dodgy alternative? Ref #23,26,31 &32
From my understanding assembly #17 is held in a fixed position and then the pushrod moves #13 away to allow plates to slip. So if a washer is missing there may be additional free play that cannot be taken up could be the problem.
The clutch actuator mounting can also be f'd up - I have done it (had the engine stripped for 12 months before reassembling)! There is a small alloy housing on the inside of the side cover that is held on by 2 screws that mounts the clutch actuator to the side cover. If that is put on the wrong way there is not enough adjustment to actuate the clutch!
Good luck
Tim

Thanks Tim for your insight!
I will tear the clutch apart this weekend and I will have a deeper look if this washers are missing, since the PO also forget the big spring clip on the outside iof the dampener, one could assume that more can be missing inside this clutch....

Concerning the clutch mechanism: I completely stripped it, cleaned and greased it (all steel balls in place).
IRC there are two JIS screws holding the actuator to the case, do you mean when the assembly is "flipped" (mounted on the wrong JIS threaded hole) the whole thing could not "engage" enough?
I have some pics of the assembly before cleaning and after, I was really carefully and marked how it was originally mounted....maybe the PO effed up.

Oooooh and I forgot the following:

I made a little video of the clutch movement the first time I dissassembled...Is it normal that the pressure plate doesnt fully move onto the snap ring like seen in the video...maybe this is the missing "reach" we are talking about...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nI1d6FMYn-k
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jpmobius on Feb 15, 2017, 12:44:39
The amount of motion in the video looks fine.  The fact that the pressure plate does not contact the snap ring is ok - there is no need for it to do so.  If you don't have the same degree of motion now I would look for a problem in the actuator first.  The actuating crank in the last picture looks like it is in the wrong position.   When the crank arm and cable are at 90o to each other, usually that is the midpoint in the rotation of the arm.  Don't be confused by the shape of the arm, imagine a straight line between the center of rotation and the swivel pin for the cable as the arm.  I would expect that it should be 20o-30o counter clockwise from the position in the pic when the return spring has it fully retracted.  Perhaps the mounting casting needs to be swapped 180o as previously suggested to get it in the right position.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 15, 2017, 17:04:39
Hi Ryan
The other indicator that the actuator housing is the wrong way, is that the adjuster lock nut is very difficult to get a socket onto the nut. The lock nut should be prominent and easy to get a socket on, when the housing is the wrong way the nut set back and recessed deep into the actuator!
Sounds like to PO had a problem with the clutch if there are spare plates and missing clips, so I guess he could have pulled the actuator apart also - you just never know! Very simple job to swap it over and see if you get any improvement.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 16, 2017, 04:28:41
Thanks mobius and tim for your precious insight!
Is there a way tim that you make a pic of your adjustment screw for me to see how far it protrudes?

Made 2 pics one of my adjustment screw how it sits right now.
And one of from the top with clutch fully pulled in,does your pushrod look like this  when fully pulled in tim?
Thanks!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170216/fc82be522e234a4f1f6decbec452a935.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170216/f83658a69eed0e3ba7eda988443e9e31.jpg)


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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 16, 2017, 05:22:46
Hi Ryan

I had a look at your video - the clutch appeared to actuate correctly! Did you actuate it using the clutch handle bar lever, or some other way?

Please see below the photos of the adjuster screw on the XS750, which has had the engine completely disassembled for hydroblasting and rebuild. I did not remove the clutch cage from the shaft during rebuild as it was OK. That was the one I had the housing the wrong way round! The 750 is very clean in photo!

The other photos are of the clutch on the XS896 build. This was the first time I have removed the cover, and give that that engine has probably done less than 100hrs in it entire life, it would be the factory adjustment! This is the dusty photos - first time to remove the cover!!!

Both look very similar as far as adjuster screw projecting out of lock nut. Hope it helps.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 16, 2017, 06:04:14
Ryan
Sorry forgot the photos of the rod - attached below.
From your photos the housing is the correct way. Adjustment is similar, in that you have 5 threads showing on adjuster screw, my 750 has 6 threads showing and the 896 7 threads (once again indicating that engine has done bugger all work).
It is looking like the actuator is OK, so I guess it is back to the clutch cage. I have not had to rebuild the cage so will not be much help. Remember reading somewhere that there was a cork faced pressure plate that must be in the correct location - see if I can find the reference.
Good luck.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Feb 16, 2017, 06:26:56
Don Carlos,

have a look at your and David's adjuster. You owe me a pint. Because the place where the fault lives, is pretty obvious now.  8)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 16, 2017, 06:27:40
Thanks for the pics tim!

Just had some and removed the side cover of the XS and remounted the assembly 180 degrees (base part with the steel balls).
Then remounted.
Doesnt look like it makes a big difference.
Now i'm confused :-)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170216/d11522c6282ac4b443b666bb157aa9a6.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 16, 2017, 06:48:51
Hi Ryan
Yep you have also confused me ;D
From the attached photo, has this change meant that you are going to get more rotation into the actuator? About 4-5mm on the cable end?
Put it together and see if the clutch now releases, cannot do any harm.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 16, 2017, 17:25:06
Hi Ryan
Found the document I was after, it was a service supplement for the 2D model. Not sure if it applies to your bike, but it might!
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 17, 2017, 14:00:20
Hi Ryan
Found the document I was after, it was a service supplement for the 2D model. Not sure if it applies to your bike, but it might!
Cheers
Tim
Hey tim!

Could you please eloborate I don't really get it.
Aren't all friction plates cork lined?

Tried if the clutch releases now...no success even with the flipped actuation,i still cannot roll the bike forward with no resistance....
Tried to screw the mechanism screw as far as possible in (clutch was then impossible to pull) and even then it was the same...

Thanks!

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Maritime on Feb 17, 2017, 14:11:01
Ryan check a parts fiche as some clutches have one different friction plate from all the rest and it needs to go in the right place or the clutch won't work. It should look slightly different and should have a different part number from the other plates.

Edit:

Looks like you don't have a special plate, if your 750 is a 79 at least. so the last highlighted comment may just mean make sure the last plate in the stack is a friction plate, not the other.  the Fiche XS750AU posted is a little different from the one I looked up on BB. it looks to have a special plate but I think that is the XS850 fiche. Not sure but the stack starts and ends with friction plates.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jpmobius on Feb 17, 2017, 16:19:27
Take the clutch side cover off so you can see the operation of the clutch.  Put the throw out mechanism back together and put the cover and cable back on the bike.  You need to understand how the adjuster works.  The center screw is the actual adjuster and its purpose is to adjust the distance between the throw out mechanism and the rod that actually pushes the pressure plate which disengages the clutch by relieving the spring pressure.  The adjuster is needed to make up differences in manufacturing tolerances which stack up from one side of the engine to the other.  There needs to be a slight bit of space between the adjuster screw and the push rod so that zero pressure is applied when the lever is not pulled.  So the screw should spin freely until the mechanism touches the push rod at which time you can still screw it in, but then you would be partially engaging the clutch.  So screw it in until it touches and then back it out a bit to create clearance and lock it down with the nut.  If all is well with the throw out mechanism, you should see the pressure plate compress the clutch springs just like your video when you pull in the lever.  If you do not see this motion, you can check the throw out mechanism by taking off the pressure plate and placing a small screwdriver or punch against the end of the now exposed ball (which should be at the pressure plate end of the clutch push rod) and pulling in the clutch lever.  You should see a few mm of motion like in your video.  If you see that the throw out mechanism works but does not expand the clutch pack, the ball and push rod length is too short or the clutch pack is too far away for some reason. Unless the push rod got swapped for a too short one somehow, that length is fixed so look to see the clutch basket has not somehow been spaced too far away from the case for some reason - incorrect assembly maybe.  If you see little or no motion of the pressure plate and/or the lever is super hard or can not be pulled in correctly, check that there is not an extra clutch plate in the stack or that it is not too thick.  When this happens, there is not enough travel available to the pressure plate before the springs bind. This is not that uncommon when people replace their clutches and interchange plates of mixed manufacture, forget how many plates go where, or the aftermarket plates are too thick. There is no adjustment for the clutch itself except by replacing/exchanging parts.  If you do see this obvious motion when you pull the lever (engage the clutch), and the driven shaft does not spin fairly freely, likely there is trouble with the plates, basket or pressure plate.  Most clutches have all the friction (cork) plates identical and all the drive (steel) plates identical.  Not much can go wrong with the friction plates unless they get fried, but the steel plates can get warped or bent.  Take the clutch pack apart and take each plate out and rub both sides around on a piece of #600 sandpaper wet on a pane of glass.  You should get scratches on most all the surfaces with very little sanding.  If you have obviously bent or deformed plates replace them with flat ones.  Bent plates can act like a spring retaining some clamping pressure even when the pressure plate is released and cause the clutch to drag.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 19, 2017, 11:25:35
So I guys.I think I have good news.
Not really ecstatic since I had a lot of hassle so far.
Yesterday,full day of work on the XS.
Completely took apart clutch side and reassembled left ign side and renewed the pushrod seal.
Took the diagram and checked each and every part.
Looks like there was a little parts mix up.
Ran the steelies over some wet sanding paper,will post pics tomorrow (some were bent some not).the low spots were on the 'teeth' side of the steelies.

Didnt want to wait so I put everything back together just to have a look if its working better. and the bike is wayyyy easier to
move in gear when clutched in.
Still a bit heavy in first gear,but maybe thats also the weight which i'm not used to.
Then I adjusted the clutch always alternating with checkig if I have compression on the kickstarter.
I settled on the adjustement of the screw where I juuuust got compression.

When I assembled the clutch into the bottom basket I felt that the steel plates are not easily slipping into place (there are marks,which I already adressed).
I will run the bike not as it is, but I guess I will need to file down the marks and replace steelies.
Does one replace all at the time or just single ones?

Thanks!

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jpmobius on Feb 19, 2017, 12:18:41

Then I adjusted the clutch always alternating with checkig if I have compression on the kickstarter.
I settled on the adjustement of the screw where I juuuust got compression.

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I assume you are talking about the screw and lock nut that adjusts the axial position of the throw out mechanism in relation to the push rod.  This in no way is an adjustment for the clutch itself, it only adjusts the location of the throw out mechanism in relation to the clutch.  It MUST have ZERO pre load on the clutch itself when the hand lever is free, so it must have at least some clearance.  When correctly adjusted, it should not be contacting the push rod at all (in theory, the clearance can be between any of the parts involved, ball inside the throw out mechanism, pushrod, pushrod ball, and pressure plate).  If you adjust this with regard to the clutch engagement, i.e. whether the engine is locked to the kick starter, very likely you will have pre load on the clutch which must NOT be there.  There needs to be a very small amount of free play in the rotation of the throw out mechanism before it takes up the slack between the  the push rod, ball, and pressure plate and starts moving the pressure plate and thereby disengaging the clutch.  The clearance is necessary in order to ensure 100% of the spring pressure is used to clamp the clutch assembly together, otherwise the clutch may slip, get hot and suffer damage.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 19, 2017, 14:12:30
Just had a read trough your last post mobius!thanks!really useful info,I will check and re adjust.
When I inserted the steel plates i saw that the surfaces of the clutch inner basket hindered slighlty an easy slip.When I buy new steelies I guess I will need to sand these surfaces slightly.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 21, 2017, 14:47:16
Guys I have great news!

Had a bit of time today and took the bike outside and took it for a spin!
The clutch seems to be working fine,no drag,nothing....oh and that sound mmmmm. :-)
I readjusted just like mobius suggested.
The only problem I now encountered is that the starter circuit seems to have a problem.
I started the bike and after some time it stalled then I tried to restart and the starter button went dead....
My guess is that any of the ignition cables or generator cables were irritated during working on both sides.
Waited for a few minutes and the buttom worked again...

Also read that the starter button itself can be a mess too....
Where would you guys start searching?

Thank you so much for your support!

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Maritime on Feb 21, 2017, 15:00:00
I wonder if it is like the GL1000 starters. When they hit 30 years old they get heat soaked and will only work when the engine is cold. You can rebuild or replace if that is the case. Symptoms are - cold engine, bike fires up fine. ride for 20 mins or more, shut bike off, starter button doesn't work, jumping solenoid doesn't work, let bike cool down and all works again.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 21, 2017, 17:32:36
Guys I have great news!

Had a bit of time today and took the bike outside and took it for a spin!
The clutch seems to be working fine,no drag,nothing....oh and that sound mmmmm. :-)
I readjusted just like mobius suggested.
The only problem I now encountered is that the starter circuit seems to have a problem.
I started the bike and after some time it stalled then I tried to restart and the starter button went dead....
My guess is that any of the ignition cables or generator cables were irritated during working on both sides.
Waited for a few minutes and the buttom worked again...

Also read that the starter button itself can be a mess too....
Where would you guys start searching?

Thank you so much for your support!

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Hi Ryan

Very good news. When you say the starter went dead, was it like the battery was flat and it did not have enough power to crank? Or there was absolutely nothing, dead, nudda!

My 750 starts cold OK with the electric starter (starter clutch needs work) when the engine is stopped after running for some time (hot) the starter cannot turn the motor over, sound just like the Goldwing! let it cool down for 10 minutes and all good and away we go - bloody lucky it has the kick starter. And you get a lot of attention when you kick start a big road bike!!!!

The starter has nothing to do with the ignition or generator circuits. If it is dead, then I would start from the starter, then relay, then starter button. I did have an earth problem with the starter button once, the button is the earth path not the power to the solenoid.
Good work
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Feb 21, 2017, 17:39:59
Rebuilding a starter is fairly easy. IIRC the starter out of a CB900/1100 Bol d'or is a straight swap AND has got more oomph.

Are you sure it wasn't a case of your battery simply collapsing?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 21, 2017, 17:51:45
Hey guys thanks for your help!

The bike first didnt even turn the starter (the starter button was dead) when it was cold.
Then I checked the bike,fuse box etc. nothing suspicious tried again and boom.there must be earth or bad contact gremlin :-)!

Later with a warm motor the bike had the same issues then again it worked like before and the starter started the engine flawlessly.

I swapped the grips and moved the controls around on the bars too before i rode it....bad earth?


Am I wrong if you say starter button is earth,is it right that if I take a multimeter and check for the consistency from earth of the starter to the minus of the battery it should read 0? :-)
Control has many cables to measure :-) help guys!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170221/fec052913dbc29012c34ff1928279536.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 21, 2017, 19:17:45
Hi Ryan

Sounds like the path to earth( - on battery) is NOK.
If you look a the starter solenoid there should be 2 thin gauge wires going to it. One should have a constant 12-13V the other goes up to the starter button. When you push the starter button it completes the circuit to earth. The trouble I have had in the past is the starter button just grounds out on the switch block alloy housing. I have not yet worked out the path back from the switch block to the negative terminal on the battery - remember the handle bars are isolated by the anti-vibration dampeners!!!! Refer attached picture of starter circuit diagram.

If you grab a length of wire and take it from the earth terminal on the solenoid and touch it on the battery negative terminal it should start the bike! If that works it is clear that you have to sort out the earth path for the starter button. If it does not work then look at the solenoid.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 22, 2017, 04:57:49
By solenoid you mean this thing dont you :-)?
Which is the earth wire of the solenoid?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/97bcb42591bb5a1c77dbfd4b338730ec.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 22, 2017, 05:11:02
Hi Ryan
Red is usually positive and blue would be the earth. You can disconnect the connector and on the bike end connector, check that the red has 12v and blue is 0v.
Good luck.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 24, 2017, 04:14:32
hey tim!

Checked my battery voltage on that day it was 12.2Volts,charged the battery and the problem dissappeared.After charging it had 13.8 Volts then again went down to 12.7 Volts...I guess my lead battery is the problem with its fast loss of power.
What kind of battery are you running in your project?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Feb 24, 2017, 05:30:05
Hi Ryan
I thought you bought a new battery? Nothing wrong with a good lead acid battery.
I am using a Motobatt in the XS750.
Planning to get a SSB lithium for the XS896
I am using a SSB lithium in my Husaberg FE550 which works very well and weighs next to nothing.
Hopefully now the battery is charged you will be OK. With the standard wiring there is a very small drain on the battery with the ignition off. If you are not riding regularly you really need to disconnect the battery and trickle charge it.

You were riding it, and it stalled, then would not start!!! Are you sure your charging circuit is working? Are you getting 14V to the battery with the motor going?

I hate electricals - good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 24, 2017, 15:18:49
Hey tim!

I hate them too :-) my charging system seens to work properly and the regulator too, i think my bike just sat for too long,i will need to charge the battery from time to time.

Today I got the new steel plates for the clutch,i have a question here:
Which side faces in what direction?there is a side with slighlty rounded edges and one side with sharp edges.
My guess is that the round edges should face in my direction when I'm installing the clutch...is that about right?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jpmobius on Feb 24, 2017, 16:24:50
Shouldn't make any difference which way you install the plates.  I'd guess any radius is a result of the stamping process.  As long as the "sharp" edge does not intersect with anything, it won't matter.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Feb 25, 2017, 05:06:45
Doesn't really matter, but I'd put the sharp side towards the engine, so it can't catch anywhere. But this is really just a personal preference.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 26, 2017, 07:06:08
Thanks guys!will fit the steelies next weekend!

didnt have a lot of time this weekend but I fitted a new fuse box and replaced the old grimy and flimsy one :-)
Interesting cause the last 5A fuse was named 'yvps'...did the PO use the box of an watercooled RD :-)?

Had some reliability issues,next up will be checking all cable connections.

The bike was again running on only 2 and had weak spark,so I have to check all connections and rewrap my loom.




(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170226/ce17f7db5ac4046e30d3d1906b5ce343.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170226/0eabad02df9e608a89c0d16c7ba03418.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Feb 27, 2017, 11:39:38
Hey guys!

I have a carb/petock related question!

Since I didnt really have the time to deal with my carbs except cleaning them, I will start to investigate more in the course of the next weeks.

The bike was running a stock airbox (swiss cheesed by the PO).Jetting seems to be stock.
Im running pods atm, since Im not really eager to put that big chunky box back into the frame.

The bike starts well (as long as the battery is fully charged,charging circuit seems to work,14.2 when the engine is revved), but needs a lot of choke and makes terrible popping noises out of the pod filters, when the engine is warmed the popping stops and the engine revvs trough the range.

Is this simply a jetting problem (stepping up the mains for the pods),or could this also be a igntion related problem (maybe I misadjusted the ignition when I dissassembled the left case)?

I just dont understands that effin petcock (will change soon to "normal" one):
When I put the petcock on ON (air vent on the petcock is plugged) the bike starves on fuel, when I put it in PRIME the bike gets too much fuel...
What is the way to go?

Where can I find a guideline to check the ignition (XS 850 ignition) of my XS750?
Where would you guys go jetting wise?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Feb 28, 2017, 06:21:45
Hi Ryan,

the popping noises are a sign that the carbs are a) not synced properly and b) running a bit lean. If you'd want to re-jet them completely, the most simple way would be to use a set of Mik 1 carbs or just all the jets out of these as the stock jetting is over-rich to say the least and works nicely with pods. Regarding the petcock: This one requires vacuum, so on "ON" it will simply not deliver any fuel. If it overflows on "PRIME", either your floats are as leaky as the ones in my Mik1 were OR the float-needles are shot. (I do have a working Mik 1, if you want - but then again, you have the Triumph carb, which can be made to work and if I were you, I wouldn't spend any extra minute on the old Mikuni and go straight for the Triumph carb, as you want to keep that one on the engine.)

A guide on how to setup the ignition is in your Haynes manual. To make sure it works properly, you should use a strobe to check if it adjusts the ignition correctly.

Cheers,
Greg
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 15, 2017, 18:25:58
Since my Mikuni stock carbs have a hole in one diaphragm I completely focused on using the Mikuni Slingshot.
If the weather gods are nice I'll maybe finally can take this thing around the block.
Had to tinker a bit with the gas bowden to make it work but now I have nicely adjustable carb bowden.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170315/f0a98be37b06b061b5d42957903df07c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170315/bebcac1d1a8dbcc862b7fe6b69d02502.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170315/3187e5cbaa9984af54347d83b2e62e2b.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 16, 2017, 02:42:22
Loctite 408 for the diaphragms👍
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 16, 2017, 09:22:46
Loctite 408 for the diaphragms👍

Thanks data!

The tear in the diapgrahm is not really large,how would you procede on using the loctite?would glue a patch on or just use the loctite itself?
Heard that vulcanising glue for bycicles can do the trick too?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 16, 2017, 09:30:11
Thanks data!

The tear in the diapgrahm is not really large,how would you procede on using the loctite?would glue a patch on or just use the loctite itself?
Heard that vulcanising glue for bycicles can do the trick too?
No it does not work, unless its a nitrile rubber solution it will be dissolved by petrol. I borrowed some of this 408 from my local carb expert, and you just put a thin layer on the pinholes. Like magic👍
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: focusinprogress on Mar 16, 2017, 09:48:55
if datadavid's plan doesn't work, you can replace the diaphragms for $19.50/ea from JBM industries. I did a set of them once and was very pleased for the cost.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 16, 2017, 11:12:43
Thanks for the hint!

Just checked a European website...30 euro per diaphragm damn...and you need to destroy the plastic retaining ring and glue on the diaphragm...

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 16, 2017, 11:19:43
if datadavid's plan doesn't work, you can replace the diaphragms for $19.50/ea from JBM industries. I did a set of them once and was very pleased for the cost.
Definitely not taking credit for my local carb expert's knowledge
If he says its good its good
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Mar 17, 2017, 04:13:11
Thanks for the hint!

Just checked a European website...30 euro per diaphragm damn...and you need to destroy the plastic retaining ring and glue on the diaphragm...

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Librane? (At least that used to be the name they went by a few years back...)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 20, 2017, 06:40:26
So guys!
I pretty much "dumped" the stock carbs, after I saw the torn membrane, maybe some time I will fix it.Thanks for the hints guys!

I had a productive weekend.Had a terrible time remounting all the stock parts (mounting the reg upside down to the battery box is my favorite :-))
Starting rewrapping the loom, which I had stripped for checking bad connections.

The Mikuni Slingshots are mounted and seem to run fine.Bike starts easily when cold.

Had an issue with a "hang up" of the revvs when I checked the ignition with the strobe gun.
Checked the ingition timing on idle then turning the gas grip and the bike seemed to "hang up" in the revvs and took quite a bit of time to come down.Could false air intake cause this?
After the bike was "hotter" the problem vanished.


Ignition timing point seems to be a bit off, so I need to readjust a bit.

Heres a little video (no hanging up in this):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KcasjGYDW0
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 20, 2017, 06:54:25
Its probably lean
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 20, 2017, 06:56:48
Sounds reasonable,I checked one plug after running it and it was very clean and slightly light gray (not white).so that means fatten the mains I guess.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Mar 20, 2017, 07:10:35
Light gray should be fine... or spot on to be fair. There's some mix-screws on the bottom of the carbs, you could fiddle around with those as hanging usually happens in connection with lean-conditions on midrange.

Cheers,
Greg
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 20, 2017, 07:12:57
Light gray should be fine... or spot on to be fair. There's some mix-screws on the bottom of the carbs, you could fiddle around with those as hanging usually happens in connection with lean-conditions on midrange.

Cheers,
Greg

Thanks for chiming in!

My needles are in "mid" position right now, IIRC you had your needle clips in bottom position didnt you?
Mixture screws are 2,5 turns out.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Mar 20, 2017, 07:34:07
Hi Ryan
Before you start playing with jets you need to make sure the ignition is spot on along with everything else. Otherwise you will end up chasing your tail!!!
I have attached a collection of blogs I found online which helped me understand tuning carbies - hope it helps. The theory is the same even though you are working on different model carbies.
What was with the brake light on your video? Were you grabbing the front brake when you twisted the throttle?
Great progress.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 20, 2017, 07:40:13
Hi Ryan
Before you start playing with jets you need to make sure the ignition is spot on along with everything else. Otherwise you will end up chasing your tail!!!
I have attached a collection of blogs I found online which helped me understand tuning carbies - hope it helps. The theory is the same even though you are working on different model carbies.
What was with the brake light on your video? Were you grabbing the front brake when you twisted the throttle?
Great progress.
Cheers
Tim

Thanks Tim for your insight!

I cant really remember,but I guess the bike charges pretty well  :D multimeter reads 14.2 Volts when revved up.
What could cause this?
I will take a little spin today and then check ignition point next weekend.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Mar 20, 2017, 11:41:45
My needles are in "mid" position right now, IIRC you had your needle clips in bottom position didnt you?
Mixture screws are 2,5 turns out.

Yep, I certainly raised the needles, but that was also (partly) because of the worn out advancer on my points ignition I used back then.

You may play with the mix screws and set them so the idle goes up and then go an 1/8th to 1/4 turn richer than that. If they don't respond to changes, then the whole setup is too far off for the mix-screws to work. Try that for a start and let us know your findings. Also take note of the stock settings.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 20, 2017, 16:38:54
Sounds reasonable,I checked one plug after running it and it was very clean and slightly light gray (not white).so that means fatten the mains I guess.

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I dont know anything about jetting these mikunis, but go for 130-150 range in mains with full open exhausts and pods. And raise the needles 1mm.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 20, 2017, 16:39:33
Hi Ryan
Before you start playing with jets you need to make sure the ignition is spot on along with everything else. Otherwise you will end up chasing your tail!!!
I have attached a collection of blogs I found online which helped me understand tuning carbies - hope it helps. The theory is the same even though you are working on different model carbies.
What was with the brake light on your video? Were you grabbing the front brake when you twisted the throttle?
Great progress.
Cheers
Tim
Yes and valve clearances! Always these things first.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 21, 2017, 04:47:59
Oooooh guys...whaaat a rush!

I took the lady out yesterday for a spin and nearly rode her for 1 hour.
That sound,that torque :-)
It was really nice seeing that my clutch is doing its job,really interesting to see the shaft drive chain difference....
A few little problems arose:

-checked the igntion timing twice with my strobe gun
Even after adjusting it on the spot the adjustment seems to 'wander'....

-one of the rubber boots (intake to motor) was not properly in place and oil was leaking....smoked nearly as much as my RD on premix :-)
--guess this is also the reason for my lean condition problem...

The plugs looked like this.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170321/280f15cb163479a702ec3b5e4a0f2c1a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170321/e0a10a6be36ee456131f714ad4545826.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170321/496c5b10c2cf7b08fe9117ea14b97493.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: JadusMotorcycleParts on Mar 21, 2017, 06:46:46
Great job man, glad you got to hear it purr and pull the throttle for a while! Nice. 

Just wondering how you are burning oil from the leaking intake boot?  Wouldn't the only side effect be a slightly lean condition due to sucking in a little more air after the carb?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 21, 2017, 07:02:14
Great job man, glad you got to hear it purr and pull the throttle for a while! Nice. 

Just wondering how you are burning oil from the leaking intake boot?  Wouldn't the only side effect be a slightly lean condition due to sucking in a little more air after the carb?

Thanks man!Cant wait for summer.

The intake boots have two clips.One clips attaches the boot to the motor,this clip was loose and I guess this is where the oil kept seeping out?is this possible?
Or am Im thinking 2 stroke  :D ?
On the other hand the motor vent on top of the gear box is also still "open"...

Why is my ingition point "wandering"?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Mar 21, 2017, 11:20:05
Might be some oil seeping down from the valve stems or more likely just some unburnt petrol.

Wandering ignition can be down to one or a combination of the following:
* ignition base plate bent and once you tighten it down it shifts around
* advancer a bit worn out
* not always looking at the pointer from the same angle
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 21, 2017, 14:22:57
You are never ever supposed to have oil in the intakes on a four stroke!   glad you get to enjoy all that work you have done! I got sideswiped by a bitch on the phone in a tunnel today on the triumph chop, second ride of the year...
Gotta bend the pegs back, nothing worse gladly
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Maritime on Mar 21, 2017, 15:03:10
David, glad you're ok after the crash! chicks on phones are one of the worst hazards on the roads these days. I almost got head on collided in my Car by one with my son in it, I had to go in the ditch, she didn't even look up and see she had crossed the yellow line completely into my lane.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jcw on Mar 21, 2017, 17:20:40

On the other hand the motor vent on top of the gear box is also still "open"...


This ^^^^. Crankcase breather.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: jcw on Mar 21, 2017, 17:22:54
Whoa! Glad it was just bent pegs and you are still intact!

You are never ever supposed to have oil in the intakes on a four stroke!   glad you get to enjoy all that work you have done! I got sideswiped by a bitch on the phone in a tunnel today on the triumph chop, second ride of the year...
Gotta bend the pegs back, nothing worse gladly
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 22, 2017, 08:23:44
David, glad you're ok after the crash! chicks on phones are one of the worst hazards on the roads these days. I almost got head on collided in my Car by one with my son in it, I had to go in the ditch, she didn't even look up and see she had crossed the yellow line completely into my lane.

roger that!
good data that youre fine!

Just ordered a crankcase breather filter, will take a while till its at my doorstep.

This weekend I will check further on the following points:

-strange wandering igntion point-->unmount ignition and check for points Nanno wrote above
-little oil is seeping out of the left side ignition cover
-on of the rear original blinkers are out of order-->checked all the connections and cables,seems to be an internal failure in the blinker...
-change the old bent gas cable (shorten the new one at about 1.6cm to fit the mikuni slingies)
-play around with the air screws on the carbies

Oh and before I forget, I ordered a conversion kit (2 petcocks and 1 right hand conversion kit) for my stock XS 750 tank so I can get rid of the stock petcocks which are prone to fail...they come off of a XS 650 and have the classic ON OFF AND RESERVE.

My RD will need some TLC too the next weeks so I guess my tiny workshop will be cramped as hell  ;D
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 27, 2017, 02:46:19
Just out of interest,what are guys running as crankcase breather filter, cant really find something that suits...
Might just use a piece of hose but it will look like ish!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 27, 2017, 04:12:04
i use a crankcase breather filter😃
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 27, 2017, 04:13:01
http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Tuning/Filter/Vevhusfilter-2000032870/
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 27, 2017, 04:24:31
As a german speaker its a always interesting to see alignments in your language :-) is it the same with you and german?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Mar 27, 2017, 07:39:38
Just as David said... Breather filter or in German "Motorentlftungsfilter" - plenty of them about on ebay.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 28, 2017, 14:34:05
Just had a quick rideout again with the XS with freshly mounted breather filter.
I think I found the culprit for the burnt oil.
Looks like the left side (ignition side) cylinder foot gasket is leaking :-( and dripping on the exhaust...
Is there any way to fix this without pulling the motor?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170328/1525fc745a2e5f855706e56ba055fac3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170328/40d26a7194be25686e72fb69440056cd.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Maritime on Mar 28, 2017, 14:39:41
You can try liquid gasket maker. clean the spot really well, smear the gasket maker in the seam and let it dry. it might be enough and it might not work, but if it does it will save a lot of work replacing the gasket.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Tripler on Mar 28, 2017, 22:36:32
This may help you, taken from the Triples site in 2008
I should add that some after market base gaskets have been a problem.

To replace the base gasket, you have to pull the jugs...
But....there is a cheap way to try to fix it that often works, and is really easy.
First clean the area where the leak is with brake parts cleaner. Dry the area completley with compressed air.
Get a bar of Ivory soap (use Ivory brand...it works the best). Using heavy pressure, rub the bar of soap over the leaking area, forcing the soap into the leak. Go over the area several times, to make sure you get good peneatration into the leaking area.

I know this sounds dumb, but I have sealed leaks on several different bikes this way. Besides...all you are out is a little time, and the cost of a bar of Ivory soap, if it does not work.
In most cases, this will seal this kind of leak for several months or more....if it starts leaking again, just clean the area, and re-apply more soap.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Mar 29, 2017, 02:06:06
Short answer (and you won't like it): No. Pull it apart and do it properly.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: hillsy on Mar 29, 2017, 02:28:58
Could also just be the cam chain tensioner leaking and running down the front of the block.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 29, 2017, 03:16:38
As a german speaker its a always interesting to see alignments in your language :-) is it the same with you and german?

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alignments? there are quite a few technical terms borrowed from germany in sweden😊
about the leak - did you check the head torque? they rarely come loose but worth a check.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 29, 2017, 03:30:53
Could also just be the cam chain tensioner leaking and running down the front of the block.

Im 100 per cent sure it comes from the bottom gasket.
The oil drip starts at the bottom gasket and makes its way down to the downpipes and burns there.....AAAARGGHHH im so frustrated...thought this thing is finally running now....

Data, which are the cylinder head screws in the diagram?do you mean the screws with number 35?

Cheers!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Mar 29, 2017, 05:29:54
Headbolts: #32 in the picture
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: hillsy on Mar 29, 2017, 08:48:32
Interesting that there's a seperate gasket for the cam chain tunnel (#27). It's more than likely that if it isn't the tensioner.


Is there a visible gap there between the block and crankcase? I'd try some JB Weld or epoxy if there is - it's not an oil galley, so you won't block anything.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 29, 2017, 09:23:44
 Yes its not worth taking it apart for. Just go over the headbolts, in the correct sequence and check that all is well there before doing anything else
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Mar 29, 2017, 10:43:24
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/172508264620
i would try this but it doesnt ship to sweden..
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Mar 29, 2017, 11:48:24
I'll let Mr. Stecken post the pictures, but we had a more than thorough check up of the bike and the base gasket is pretty much foo-bared. It most likely has to do with some damage on the mating surface between engine block and cylinder-base - exactly were the spot for prying it up is. What's the odds we'll find screw-driver marks there?  ;)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Mar 30, 2017, 05:25:36
Life goes on.

I will try the trick with a bit of Dirko HT sealant on the spot were the oil seeps out.If it doesnt work it doesnt work.

In the meantime I'm preparing my 74 hp head which I will use anyways sooner or later.Blasting,painting,fitting new viton valve seals,lapping the valves...

Really frustrating when the bike comes together abd runs fine and ready for MOT and this happens (the leak only happens when the bike is really hot so I couldnt check for that before)....



(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170330/108793665bb06a930d3ce9aa7fa9502d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170330/c838ca631125f89ca4fca8ad244d982b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170330/9b01ead993c57ac54ebcf357697f0c3a.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Apr 02, 2017, 17:52:55
This weekend I invested my workshop time onto my Yamaha RD.MOT coming up,my exhaust is too loud...blablabla...however took some time and cleaned the gasket surface.
This is taking a lot of work...what a chunk of metal :-)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170402/744ca220e24e7cb55912dab63e10d527.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Apr 04, 2017, 03:25:21
Yesterday I took some liquid gasket maker and after degreasing put it onto the cylinder foot of the XS...lets see if this will work.
MOT will be done this friday, hope Ill pass.  ;D
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: SprayKat on Apr 06, 2017, 16:40:55
Oil leak from that place is apparently an know "child disease" with the XS. I have an XS 750-2D 1977 (1T5...) with the same problem. I just let it be for a couple of years and cleaned it when necessary regularly checking the oil (never a problem here though). Now when its apart I need to deal with it though.

On the danish page, www.rider.dk you can find information about the tripples in danish ofc. They have an passage about this oil leak, ill translate:

Danish passage:
"Firkantet gummittning ved cylinderfod
For XS750 er det ikke ualmindeligt at finde oliespild fra omrdet omkring denne pakning. Det m anses for sandsynligt, at en del motorer har en lidt for dyb rille til den firkantede gummipakning, som mske heller ikke er hj nok. P XS850 er gummittningens profil ndret fra et nrmest trekantet til rund. Rillen er tilsvarende mindre dyb.
Iflge Yamaha skal rillen for XS750 vre mellem 1.9 og 2.6 mm dyb. Er der problem med oliespild dette sted kan sagen undertiden afhjlpes ved at klippe en 0.5 mm papirspakning til i samme facon som gummipakningen. Papirs- og gummipakning smres med siliconegummi og placeres i rillen. Papirspakningen nederst og gummipakningen med den skarpe kant opefter. P XS850 er der sjldent problemer dette sted. Lidt silikonegummi kan den dog med fordel smres med."

translated:
"Square rubber seal at cylinderfod:
For XS750 is not uncommon to find oil spills from the area around the package. It is considered likely that some motors have a little too deep groove to the square rubber gasket that may not be high enough. On XS850 the rubbersealing is changed from an almost triangular to round. The groove is correspondingly less deep.
According to Yamaha, the groove for XS750 be between 1.9 and 2.6 mm deep. If there's a problem with oil spill from this place the matter may sometimes be corrected by cutting one 0.5 mm paper packaging in the same shape as the rubber gasket. The paper package and rubber seal are lubricated with "silicone rubber" (silicone based lubricant?) and placed in the groove. The package of paper at the bottom and the rubber gasket with the sharp edge upwards. On XS850 is seldom a problem this place. Try using a little silicone lubricant."
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Apr 07, 2017, 00:59:18
I had an updated big round section seal in my gasket set, feels good.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Apr 18, 2017, 14:28:14
So long time no hear guys....
The XS is up and running on thr streets of Vienna...
Got that thing MOT'd with no real problems,found a workshop which is pretty easy on youngtimers so my RD got its MOT there too :-)

After some days of riding with the cylinder foot leak I checked the cylinder head screws...the PO forgot the even screw of them in...there were on there completely loose...so I brought then carefully to the right torque and now the oil loss is minimal,no oil on the headers anymore.
Changed my bars the higher more comfortable ones,now I need new longer cables refitted.

One problem however I encountered is that the bike makes 'cracking' noises (like when one misshifts on a car) in first and second gear in the 3rd and other gears the problem gets smaller.
When I revv the engine to the 'right' revvs the sound dissappears...
Could this be a maladjustment of the clutch,normally the gears are independent from the clutch arent they?

Thanks in advance!


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/28928d4b57ce27fc83b8b69917d24ce6.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Apr 18, 2017, 14:41:41
Yes its not worth taking it apart for. Just go over the headbolts, in the correct sequence and check that all is well there before doing anything else

alignments? there are quite a few technical terms borrowed from germany in sweden😊
about the leak - did you check the head torque? they rarely come loose but worth a check.

So long time no hear guys....
The XS is up and running on thr streets of Vienna...
Got that thing MOT'd with no real problems,found a workshop which is pretty easy on youngtimers so my RD got its MOT there too :-)

After some days of riding with the cylinder foot leak I checked the cylinder head screws...the PO forgot the even screw of them in...there were on there completely loose...so I brought then carefully to the right torque and now the oil loss is minimal,no oil on the headers anymore.
Changed my bars the higher more comfortable ones,now I need new longer cables refitted.

One problem however I encountered is that the bike makes 'cracking' noises (like when one misshifts on a car) in first and second gear in the 3rd and other gears the problem gets smaller.
When I revv the engine to the 'right' revvs the sound dissappears...
Could this be a maladjustment of the clutch,normally the gears are independent from the clutch arent they?

Thanks in advance!


(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/28928d4b57ce27fc83b8b69917d24ce6.jpg)
Glad and not surprised to hear the bolts were loose. These suckers have sharp little vibes knocking every nut and bolt loose eventually.
Sounds like you still have clutch drag. Gears are clunkier than modern bikes but quiet when everything is working right. Mine is very smooth now, and its all old parts in there except the springs.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Apr 18, 2017, 14:43:56
Btw i loctited the screws holding the clutch springs. Torque value seemed too low to retain them securely and tightening more risks stripping them.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: SprayKat on Apr 18, 2017, 15:49:35
I might have had the same sound on my bike. Hash and raw. Usually when the bike was warm and in lower rpms but disappeared when giving more throttle. I dont know if this is what caused the sound, but I saw that my primary chain gnawed on the inside of the engine cover. Could it be that? Loose primary chain? Seems to be a known problem.

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Apr 18, 2017, 19:05:18
Great to hear she is on the road.
The shaft drive also adds to the amount of lash in the drive train, so there is plenty of room for clunks and rattles.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Apr 19, 2017, 03:15:00
The clunk sound is quite distinctive.

I sometimes even feel "vibration" of some gears clunking together when I shift the gears,what I read in another forum that there is a screw that holds the shifter cam (behind the clutch basket) that can come loose...I dont know If I want to go back into the clutch again...
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Apr 19, 2017, 04:47:25
Hi Ryan
You get to that screw through the sump. No need to touch the clutch.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Apr 19, 2017, 07:20:16
Let's have a listen on Friday, shall we? I suspect you just have to get used to the amount of mechanical noise your engine makes.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Apr 19, 2017, 07:30:51
Let's have a listen on Friday, shall we? I suspect you just have to get used to the amount of mechanical noise your engine makes.
Alright man!cant wait!

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Apr 19, 2017, 08:25:45
I admit though, that the 850 you didn't take was probably the quietest Yam Triple I've ever heard...  :P
(I shall fire mine up today or tomorrow just to have a valid comparison!)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Apr 19, 2017, 12:20:09
Before I take anything apart I will check on my clutch actuation adjustment (under the plastic side cover).
The problem got worse since I swapped to higher bars ...the clutch cable will be swapped to a longer one so I guess this could cause the clutch to drag sometimes (too short clutch cable).

The gas cable is way too short and causes the bike to gas when I turn left or right the tightely :-) pretty funny when you pull up to your friends and the bike revvs up like hell when the bike is parked  :D
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Apr 25, 2017, 03:41:48
So guys!

Great news on the XS front.

The "cracking" gears stopped after I readjusted the clutch actuation screw.One turn out and it got WAY better

Had my friend "Der Nanno" coming over redadjusting the valves ( they were set completely wrong), readjusting the ignition and syncing the carbs.Now the baby starts first kick even when the engine is cold.

Since I swapped to higher bars I had to order new bowdens for gas and clutch and currently waiting for them.
Bike is supercomfy now with the new bars.

I have the plan to ride with this bike to my Bachelorparty in Zagreb (Croatia) this summer, so it has to work properly or I will strand somewhere  ::)

One thing I still need to do is dropping the needle clip, it looks like the bike is running a bit lean in the mid throttle area.
I already took the needles out but there is a plastic piece (maybe its a shim) in there which I cant really eyeball what to do with it.
Under the plastic piece there are still 2 notches to adjust the needle so maybe I just need to take that out...

What are your thoughts on these?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170425/2d42d7d57c4dcec1cdb514c75aab4ba4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170425/74910698c37ce4b89bdb4bcf9b50f6ac.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Apr 25, 2017, 09:00:27
Simply adjust the needle as you would on the RD, the plastic bobbin is just a retainer (of sorts) and will not affect jetting.

Cheers,
Greg
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Garc on Apr 25, 2017, 18:06:05
Running pods and 3-1 open MAC I had to richen the needle a notch from factory on the MKIIs.  132.5 was plenty of main on the big end with my 750 jug set.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Apr 25, 2017, 18:22:59
Running pods and 3-1 open MAC I had to richen the needle a notch from factory on the MKIIs.  132.5 was plenty of main on the big end with my 750 jug set.
Thanks garc!I'm runnin' different carbs on that bike from a Triumph Sprint 900...make quite a difference honestly to the old miks :-)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170425/4a59887217306a16556e6bed91c10d67.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on May 15, 2017, 09:04:04
So guys,not a lot of time to wrench on the stock Xs750 the last days but I ride her nearly every day and Im really happy with her. The rear brake master cylinder needs an overhaul, will sort that out in the course of the summer.

While I was busy ridind the XS 750 I started dissassembling the other motor I have in my XS cafe racer project.

The top end of the bike was just "stuck" on the bike, all the nuts and bolts were loose.
When I removed the engine from the frame I removed the oil sump, didnt find any major damages or whatnot,gears seem to be in good condition.

The plan now is the break the engine open till I reach the crank, the PO told me that the crank was somehow not "in good condition".
First thing will be checking if the crank seats are stock or damaged or anything.


Did you guys measure your cranks with plastigauge?

Thanks
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on May 15, 2017, 09:40:41
Did you guys measure your cranks with plastigauge?

Yep. Oh and btw. I have a spare rear mastercylinder-repair-kit, if you want.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on May 15, 2017, 09:47:20
Yep. Oh and btw. I have a spare rear mastercylinder-repair-kit, if you want.

Sounds interesting, lets talk when youre back in Vienna!

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 06, 2017, 07:23:08
So guys!Long time no hear!

In the meantime I got married, had my honeymoon in Portugal and I try to ride my stock XS 750 as much as possible.Had not enough time to deal with the important things in life like bikes  :).

The stock 750 is reliable, even though I just explored that the the main stand mount on the frame is bent (and needs fixing in Winter) the bike starts and drives reliably, power is good and a nice difference to my rock-hard RD350.

While I was busy organising the marriage I managed however to remove the engine of the parts bike XS750 from the frame, my plan is to check this engine for my cafe -racer project.
I already ordered parts for this engine (gaskets etc.).I also ordered a "new" kardan drive (the old one had a huge crack where it is mounted on the swingarm), also a electronic ignition set from the later 3L3 model and other bits and pieces that are missing on that motor...

The engine is now dissassembled down to the cylinder base, next aim is to open up the cases and check the crank if its in spec.
The PO told me that there is "something wrong with the crank" so I will check before I invest too much money and have a engine that runs poor.
My friend Der Nanno will help me with his Plastigauge to check the crank.

I also started to collect info and tools to refresh my later model cylinderhead....the cafe racer will have 825cc with this cylinder head and T300 carbs so I hope it will be a bit more lively than my stock 750  :)

How do you guys check your valve seats on your cylinder heads?I read one should buy new valves (one exhaust and one intake) and measure the side lash when inserted...

Thanks in advance!!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170706/09b8f6ffd084ff9cf003671b74ed1630.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170706/b1e6bb53a80741a16f753b2ad402e5b9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170706/9f8c081fc9da9909495d4def2d5ee2ef.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Jul 06, 2017, 17:42:16
How do you guys check your valve seats on your cylinder heads?I read one should buy new valves (one exhaust and one intake) and measure the side lash when inserted...

Are we talking the valve seats or guides? With guides, you pull the valve out by about 10mm and then try to rock it back and forth. There should be next to no play on the inlet and minimally more on the exhaust.

If you want to check valve-face to valve-seat fitment, you blue them up (which is a fancy word for scribbling on them with a marker pen and then lap them in two or three turns. This will remove part of the paint, which is how you work out how wide the mating surface (i.e. where they touch) is.

With the valve train on the XS being what it is (operated via buckets with shims) there should be little to no wear on the guides for incredibly long periods. The valve seats are more dependant on correct valve lash and as such depend vastly on how well the PO has serviced the engine.

Cheers,
Greg
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: JadusMotorcycleParts on Jul 08, 2017, 09:44:14
Congrats on the marriage man!  Good you are back onto the important things in life though - bikes  ;D

Loving the engine stand!  Custom made by you?  Also, how are these engines to man handle?  Like have you been moving it around yourself with your arms or with a crane/hoist/winch?  Cheers.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Jul 08, 2017, 17:14:50
Not Ryan, but... quite easy to handle. If you're a bit of a hefty f*cker you can lift them alone, they are somearound 140-150 LBS so still within range of what a grown up should be able to carry around.  ;)

(Seriously, I once had to lift a complete engine out of the frame, it is doable. But with a second person it's a quite bearable job.)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 08, 2017, 17:37:06
^what nanno said!I had the help of my big russian friend and we lifted it together out of the frame...the engine stand is from ebay,i think it was about 30 euros...if you want I can send you the link...

Thanks nanno for the info on the valve guides!

Had a bit of progress yesterdday,removed the pistons clutch and starter...next up splitting the cases :-)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170708/62d442e546965e55d87cf2fb6fd97dc4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170708/33e81285b048cb06d6ff006fb8304a3f.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 09, 2017, 10:28:59
I wouldnt think of lifting the complete engine out of the frame myself, a bit worn in the back from 15 years of steel work😃 with cylinders off, no problem, and its easier getting them off while in the frame anyway.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Jul 09, 2017, 14:31:36
I agree, but when needs must...  ;)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Jul 09, 2017, 21:48:46
Hi Ryan
Following up on your question about splitting the cases, there are many bolts to remove. From memory you also have to remove the right angle drive unit! I have picked up a photo from your post and marked up the bolts I could see. I will try to take a photo tonight of the 896 engine and show all the bolts that need to be removed before splitting.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 10, 2017, 04:31:38
Hey tim thanks for the headsup!
I removed already all the bolts,I think one is missing...here are a few pics that show which screw I mean...is this also a screw holding the case?
The screw is besides the neutral switch on the left ignition side.
cheers!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Jul 10, 2017, 05:13:44
Hi Ryan
The large bolt head in your photo is the gear shift index, it does not hold the cases together.
You must remove the right angle drive unit which is held on with M8 allen head bolts (first photo)
Then you have to remove the oil cleaner and sump to get to all the journal bolts - big M10 bolts. Plus when you are looking at the bottom there is a row of M8 bolts along the very front edge. (second photo)
Finally from the top, per the photo there are a lot of bolts spread around the top basically holding the gearbox shafts. I think there are one or two under the starter that I did not show. (third photo)
I always group the bolts together into plastic bags with generic label from where they were removed, ie right angle drive, engine top, engine bottom!!
Then some not too aggressive work with a rubber mallet. If it does not separate after a few blows then check again for any bolts you may have missed.
Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 10, 2017, 05:32:42
Thank you!

This is exactly why I asked more knowledgeable people :-)...

Sump and filter are removed I think I forgot all the screws that are inside the sump and filter housing as you nicely pictured :-) thanks!
Is it probably that when I remove the upper case that the journala will fall out?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Jul 10, 2017, 06:35:52
The journals do not fall out as they are cast into the casings. The shell bearings usually stick in the journals. Make sure you keep the shell bearings together in individually labeled bags. The early  XS750 had a history of the middle cylinder big end letting go as it naturally gets hotter than the outer cylinders. Plus when that was combined with leaking petcocks that diluted the oil they let go.
Good luck
Tim
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 10, 2017, 11:19:57
Thanks tim!
Just checked it out...found the two screws inside the oil pan.

Are you sure that there are 3 screws inside the oil filter housing?just could find 2 of them...
What is the screw with the bent tab for on my last pic,guess something for the gearbox...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170710/361e488638a5d23005bdde4bd645dc73.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170710/c8b2b591bf645dfa156cd219ecb88a01.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170710/946198f45b471cf413d6c649c786b1cb.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Jul 10, 2017, 19:10:54
Hi Ryan
Sorry my dots were a little misleading :-[. There are only 2 large journal bolts in the oil filter. The third dot I was trying to show the line of M8 bolts that go across the front of the cases!!!
Cannot remember if that bolt in the gearbox goes through to the top case???? It might be best if you can rotate the motor up so you can have a better look than trying to look up under the motor. I cannot see from your photo.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 12, 2017, 01:56:18
I think that screw with tab is the detent plunger.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 12, 2017, 05:43:19
Hey guys!

I made it!I ' ve successfully split the cases.
The only screws that were holding on were the 2 in the oil pan and the other 2 behind the oil filter housing.
The case popped easily off.

This is what I found.
The upper case has 4444 stamped onto it and the crank web has 11111 on it...does that mean that mean that there should be brown crank shell bearings inside (4-1=3= brown)?
One of the shells seems to be damaged.

The crank surface looks normal with no deeper scratches.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/3de4fbc4cbeb14e3976e136009b29ed1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/e2ec4d10cf6e427c47e8584686089910.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/d83a63721860b4a984435268b79026f4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/13dfe09b65af444b17948cd356fb2016.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/3cf61894edd1fcd81f2a911853cfe343.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/ad81fe63ada2cf1cf1e43ee7d6471760.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/9be5039823bdf683a90c5ead6533c762.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/1e451a7f89ff3edc553321419afdfa32.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/13ce1d63c75dc82b52fa321a461b6013.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170712/b6ca16a06f9c8593443f9bed920d48d6.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Jul 12, 2017, 06:15:33
Quote
Case-to-Crank-bearing-shell-calculations

If that's what the manual says... Basically what we'll be doing is to check, whether crank is actually within spec and not reground. Even though the place I used in the past used to "X" out the old markings, if they reground the crankshaft journals, so you're very likely lucky.

Cheers,
Greg
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 12, 2017, 10:31:47
If that's what the manual says... Basically what we'll be doing is to check, whether crank is actually within spec and not reground. Even though the place I used in the past used to "X" out the old markings, if they reground the crankshaft journals, so you're very likely lucky.

Cheers,
Greg

Looking forward to that!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 12, 2017, 10:49:39
With some more luck the color marking is still intact on the back of the bearing shells. Your crank will have to be verified with a micrometer first of course.
I have some bearing shells left in a set i found on ebay, not sure which colors are left, plus one thrust bearing was missing when i bought it.
Edit: what further complicates this is that yamaha changed oil film tolerances in the middle of production, so later bikes have tighter spec clearance on the crank, and a higher capacity oil pump.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 13, 2017, 16:35:12
Shamelessly quoting senlisian on the yam triples forum. Lots of meat regarding crank bearing sizes in this thread:
http://yamaha-triples.org/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=14331&mid=122807#M122807
  Posted 2013-05-21 9:45 PM (#122807 - in reply to #98881) 
Subject: RE: Conrod & main bearings  Offline

Regular

Posts: 144

Location: FranceHi guys, I have found the answer to your questions & frustrations... 

It's very simple in the end - the XS750s have 2 types of crankshafts with different tolerances.
The first type has a set of 5 possible bearing colours going from blue (thickest) to yellow(thinnest). On this crankshaft there are no markings on the face of the primary gear. 
The second type has a set of 5 possible bearing colours going from RED (thickest), then to blue, then on to green (thinnest) - yellow doesn't apply to these cranks. All the other colours in between are the same for both cranks. On this crankshaft there is an 'X' stamped on the face of the primary gear. 

The calculation used for the first type of crank is case number - crank number = bearing code. 
The calculation used for the second type of crank is case number - crank number - 1 = bearing code (0=RED). This calc is used ONLY for the main bearings, not for big-ends. 

The plastigage clearances quoted in previous postings on this thread for 'early' & 'later' cranks are correct. 

The reason for this change is that there are mods to the oil passages between the main & big-end bearings to provide more reliable lubrication to the big end bearings at higher revs. 
The internal passages for the main bearings aren't drilled through both sides (1 hole instead of 2 - see picture below) as they were for the early cranks. This was done to reduce oil loss due to higher centrifugal forces that could induce aeration of the oil. Hence the revised tolerances for the later cranks. 

If anyone is interested in the actual tolerances that the stamped figures on the case, crank, and con rods represent then I can post these as well. 

Concerning the 850s I have no definitive info other than the main bearing size changed to be the same as the XS1100 so an educated guess would be to go with XS1100 values (if you can find them :-)). 

PS. Credit where it's due; it all came from the 'revue technique'.

Edited by Senlisian 2013-05-21 9:47 PM

Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Jul 13, 2017, 16:43:30

The plastigage clearances quoted in previous postings on this thread for 'early' & 'later' cranks are correct.

AND

If anyone is interested in the actual tolerances that the stamped figures on the case, crank, and con rods represent then I can post these as well.

Both would be really interesting.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 13, 2017, 16:52:53
AND

Both would be really interesting.
Yea i am pretty sure i read them somewhere on the yamtriples forum. Or maybe i was satisfied with being on the close side of the old style crank spec sometimes these things make my head spin but plastigage never lies
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 18, 2017, 10:18:08
So guys I have good news...Der_Nanno investigated on my crank and we were able to combine my 2 cranks together with some connecting rods to a crank that will be usable for my XS cafe racer!
Several rods were trash but we were able to put it together.
Plastigauge was used and showed good clearances on the rods...

Here are some pics.

But theres a issue however:
-i cant find a place that sells the screws that hold th connecting rods together (1J7-11654-00)+(90170-09192)
-im looking for seals for the Crank on the left 93102-24154
and gears with the number 93103-50103
-clips for the 825cc pistons

Where can I get these parts?

Thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Jul 18, 2017, 19:29:45
Hi Ryan
The Yamaha seal is not available but you should be able to get a standard seal from a bearing shop. Per the attached description you need a 40mmOD X 24MM ID X 7.4mm thick seal. Most likely you could go down to a 7mm thick but may be a problem if you go above 7.4mm.
The other seal 93103-50103 there are a few on Ebay - Item number 152418000685.
Conrod bolts??? You obviously have the bolts from the engines you have? Are they damaged or stripped?  Think you are going to have to use what you have, as they are not a standard bolt. Otherwise you are going to have to trawl Ebay until you find some 2nd hand conrods.
Good luck!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 19, 2017, 05:44:42
If the workshop manual says they are reusable, i would reuse the old bolts. I reused mine, so i think the manual said they can be reused😃
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 19, 2017, 05:51:06
If the workshop manual says they are reusable, i would reuse the old bolts. I reused mine, so i think the manual said they can be reused😃
I think I have no choice anyways.No chance getting these...my yamaha dealer in germany who has bought pretty much all rare yamaha part stocks has 2 on stock :-)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 19, 2017, 05:51:48
http://www.partssweden.se/xs850sg-1980/crankshaft--piston i found piston clips on a swedish parts page
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 24, 2017, 06:08:43
Thanks data!
Im currently collecting information on which parts will be available...some oil seals (part numbers:93102-24154, 93103-50103) are also not available which is for me a big NO NO...im always doing all seals gaskets when I do a motor....

Next up will be doing the cylinder head:

How do I make sure that this head is the later "better" more horsepower XS 750 head?What are the differnces to the old head design?

Already bought the right tools and fresh viton valve stem seals, grinding paste and all the good stuff  8)

Since its my first time (regrinding and checking valves) could anyone point me in the right direction,already watched a few good videos on what to do and not do, but Im pretty sure there is more to it  :D?

First step will be removing the camshaft (checking for signs of wear), and valve buckets with shims.
Then I will use my spanner tool to slowly push down the valve springs, removing the little retainers.
Next up check the "side lash" of the valves in the valve stems.
Checking the valve seats for chipping and wear.
Regrinding the valve seats (using little grinding paste, NO paste should go into the valve stems) by hand.
My manual says that I must measure the fresh grinded new valve seat surface and see if its in spec.
Reassembly-->check for leaks with gasoline
Start NEW or call it a day :-)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 24, 2017, 08:57:40
I think there is a difference in the combustion chamber shape, i think my heads had either domes or little domes around the valves. Supposed to aid breathing and combustion. The xs11 also has these peculiar multi-dome shapes.
Like this:(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/5d34d6cb973f83a7f86556f12081173b.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Jul 24, 2017, 09:13:36
You don't grind them, just lap them. Max. seat width on valve and seat, see manual.

Generally, if it's more than 1mm you've got to get the seats recut and the valves re-faced. (This is a rule of thumb-value, but in general you're pretty much on the money with this one...)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Jul 24, 2017, 19:27:21
I think there is a difference in the combustion chamber shape, i think my heads had either domes or little domes around the valves. Supposed to aid breathing and combustion. The xs11 also has these peculiar multi-dome shapes.
Like this:(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/5d34d6cb973f83a7f86556f12081173b.jpg)
+1 for the combustion chambers and cams are the major changes on the later heads. Sorry don't have a photo of the head on my other bike to compare with.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Jul 25, 2017, 00:53:56
Found some not so good photos of a 2D head online. You can see that it does not have the twin chamber. The twin chambers reduced the combustion chamber volume, hence increased the compression ration.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 25, 2017, 04:27:03
Polyspheric. Thats what its called, now i remembered!😃
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 25, 2017, 04:27:53
....looks like the PO sold me the "better head" for a normal head :-(....my bad I should have not trusted him....looks like I will need to run with the normal heads.
Will the 825ccm piston and cylinders be compatible with the old heads?

Cheers
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170725/914683e64d6cbd074476458d00f01c47.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Jul 25, 2017, 06:25:06
No problem using that head on a 825. You will get a higher compression with the larger capacity relative to the fixed compression volume.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Jul 25, 2017, 06:36:04
No problem using that head on a 825. You will get a higher compression with the larger capacity relative to the fixed compression volume.

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Thank you!
Just checked my 825cc pistons are just a few millimeter bigger than the 750?


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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 25, 2017, 07:23:36
Too bad my late heads have all been eating valves.. i could weld up and reshape the polyspere shapes, but a lot of work, heads are easily found for these bikes.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Jul 25, 2017, 08:17:20
Too bad my late heads have all been eating valves.. i could weld up and reshape the polyspere shapes, but a lot of work, heads are easily found for these bikes.

Dave - has the same issue happened on more than one head? Can you put is down to any particular reason? From the videos it does look/sound like you are pushing the redline!
Now I could be wrong, but I think the compression ratio when bored out to 896cc would be up around 11.5:1. Does anyone know if that could affect the durability of the valves?
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 25, 2017, 09:07:33
Dave - has the same issue happened on more than one head? Can you put is down to any particular reason? From the videos it does look/sound like you are pushing the redline!
Now I could be wrong, but I think the compression ratio when bored out to 896cc would be up around 11.5:1. Does anyone know if that could affect the durability of the valves?
Haha, they came like that in the parts lot!
Last registration on my bike was 1984 sometime, and the leftover pistons were for over 1000cc bore. No oil cooler found anywhere, and probably no deep sump was used either, my guess is it overheated and blew up. At least twice!
I think my machinist calculated the compression to 10.5:1 actually, se talked about skimming the cylinders to raise comp, but i wanted to be able to run 95octane pump gas. My cooling is so good it almost takes too long to reach operating temp, thinking about switching to the shallow sump actually..
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Jul 25, 2017, 09:14:54
Actually its nowhere close to redline on the vids, man, you should hear it at 9000....
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Jul 27, 2017, 06:28:59
You'll just loose a bit of compression-ratio, but it will certainly work.

Have a look around and try to source an 850 head or a late 750 head, if you're really concerned with the power-output.

Cheers,
Greg
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 04, 2017, 05:01:11
hey guys!

so Ive done a bit of searching on the interwebs and found this head in the UK,alltogether with cams...ould you guys take a look if its buyable:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/YAMAHA-XS750-XS-750-CYLINDER-HEAD-CAM-CAMSHAFTS-/322483449021?hash=item4b1582ecbd:g:jMYAAOSwCWFY8Lt3

thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 04, 2017, 09:21:31
You should be prepared to spend some money on it if you buy it. Looks like it has been exposed to water and it is impossible to know how much damage has been done from the photo.
The good is, it is the correct head casting and all the cooling fins are intact. One exhaust stud is missing and could be stripped, easily fixed with a helicoil. The cam lobes look good but obviously the cams have been removed at some point. Just hope they are the original cams and have not been replaced with earlier cams???? It would be good to see the journal surfaces for wear.
From all the carbon build up in the exhaust ports and valves the engine was cactus, so I would have expected more marking on the cams. It is a bit like the triumph carbs I bought, be prepared to spend more that you paid for it to get it serviceable. At the least you should budget for new guides and valves.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 07, 2017, 06:12:16
 Worst thing that can happen to it is if its ran out of oil at some point, you really dont want to repair that, otherwise, to get max power and service life from it, change guides and valves,  and recut all valve seats. You also want to get new valve springs.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 17, 2017, 04:40:53
So I decided to run the "old" head for now...I will dissasemble this weekend and post some pics.I can still swap out for the "better" head down the line...

I have a question for you guys:

There a few screws missing on my motor (screwed from down below),do you guys have measurements and/or pics of these screws?

I marked them red in the pic.

Thanks!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 17, 2017, 07:25:16
Ryan
You are lucky as they are only a standard M8 flange head bolt grade 8.8. Not sure of the length, so I will check on the weekend. The journal bolts are specialised OEM bolts that are far more difficult to source.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 17, 2017, 07:30:33
Thank you tim!

A question on measuring the tolerances of the crank:
Bought some red plastigauge and finally got the right torquw wrench to go down on the bolts.
Am I right that when I place tze plastigauge on the surface (how much of a strip would you place?) that its suffice to tighten the 4 journal bolts?

Thanks in advance!

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 17, 2017, 08:11:17
Sorry, but I have not rebuilt my cranks. Hopefully someone else will jump in and help you.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Aug 17, 2017, 13:43:00
You don't want to have the plastigauge extend over the bearing surface other than that, yes, you tighten all the corresponding bolts to the correct torque and then undo them. That being said, the clearance of the middle rod on the crank was slightly over spec, but well within what from my experience will still work.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 18, 2017, 16:38:50
I think you need the green? Its not hard to use really, just make sure nothing rotates while you torque them. For the crankcase i had to put in all the big bolts around the crank to get even plastigage figures.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 20, 2017, 17:24:19
Thanks data!i will try as soon as I get back to the bike!

Yesterday I sat down and started pulling the cyl head apart...didnt find anything yet that would need renewal *besides the stone hard valve seals* :-).
There is no palpable play of the valves in the valves seats.
One thing I had problems with:
I would like to clean the exhaust ports off of the black coal...how would you guys go about?
WD40 and dremel with steel brush?

Thanks

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 20, 2017, 18:29:13
Soak in a bucket of diesel for a week, while you are at work.

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 20, 2017, 18:36:00
Soak in a bucket of diesel for a week, while you are at work.

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Good idea!
Do I need a lid to close the bucket or can I just place a rag over it and put it in the basement somewhere,where the smell isnt that important :-)?

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 20, 2017, 19:31:52
Quote
Do I need a lid to close the bucket
Ryan that's a domestic negotiation between you and your better half  ;D My wife hates the smell of diesel, I was using it as a cutting fluid on the mill over the weekend. It will stink, if you don't have a lid, I would tape a big plastic bag over it.
The XS heads are very robust, I would be surprised if you needed to do any more than lap the valves in and replace the guide seals.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 21, 2017, 04:39:45
Ryan that's a domestic negotiation between you and your better half  ;D My wife hates the smell of diesel, I was using it as a cutting fluid on the mill over the weekend. It will stink, if you don't have a lid, I would tape a big plastic bag over it.
The XS heads are very robust, I would be surprised if you needed to do any more than lap the valves in and replace the guide seals.

Dont forget Im freshly married...I still have to learn a lot  :D

Just found a bucket and will soak the head in there!
Do you know by any chance the torque of the big 4 journal screws that bolt from the bottom (oil filter and oil pan housing) into the upper case?
Cant find anything in my manual...would be a great help!

Thank you!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170821/daab4f6b8297d6388ee34b93370b4b1f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170821/98d48fea49532f3b2c23a66064d960e1.jpg)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 21, 2017, 05:19:39
I 'should' know the torque values since i torqued my cases at least ten times before final assembly.. torque figures are in my haynes book.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 21, 2017, 05:20:52
http://www.yamaha-triples.org/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=5730&DisplayType=flat&setCookie=1 this is pretty much all you need though!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 21, 2017, 06:41:39
Haynes manual page 54 states that it is a 2 stage process for the crank case bolts.
M8  1st = 1.0 Kgm (7 ft lb), final = 2.0 Kgm (14 ft lb)
M10  1st = 2.0 Kgm (14 ft lb), final = 3.7 Kgm (27 ft lb)

Quote
Dont forget Im freshly married...I still have to learn a lot  :D
Yes understand your point. But it does not hurt to set some precedents.  ;) My wife and neighbours are not surprised these days as they know to expect anything! Might have something to do with the wind turbine mounted on my shed with a 2m rotor span! I think the biggest surprise for them was when I fired up a Chinese valveless pulse engine that I made after watching youtube. The noise is unbelievable, 120db plus!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPevraef4gI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPevraef4gI).
The video is not my engine, but you get the idea.
The neighbour's wife just looked at her husband and said " what the "F" has he made now?". Luckily I am now totally distracted by the XS896 build. ;D
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 23, 2017, 03:51:35
Thanks guys for your input!
That pulse engine is amazing :-)!

Here are some pics from the head dissassembly!

Cheers!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 23, 2017, 04:23:38
So theres one BIG question:  ::) ::) ::)

My aim is to blast the whole engine...
So I would now-->reassemeble the "hollow" engine with no crank and pistons, reseal it

There is a trusty blasting technician in Vienna that does really good work with glass beads, but I dont think that I can get the engine leak free and I dont want ANY glass beads going into my engine...
Der Nanno already advised my to remove all the gears and crank parts and then sealing the engine then blasting.

Already thought about soda-blasting the engine or dry ice blasting but as far as I know these methods wont remove the factory paint from the motor...

How hard is it to remove all the transmission parts from the engine?
Im afraid that I will never be able to put them back in the right way...
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: japstar on Aug 23, 2017, 06:26:38
So theres one BIG question:  ::) ::) ::)

My aim is to blast the whole engine...
So I would now-->reassemeble the "hollow" engine with no crank and pistons, reseal it

There is a trusty blasting technician in Vienna that does really good work with glass beads, but I dont think that I can get the engine leak free and I dont want ANY glass beads going into my engine...
Der Nanno already advised my to remove all the gears and crank parts and then sealing the engine then blasting.

Already thought about soda-blasting the engine or dry ice blasting but as far as I know these methods wont remove the factory paint from the motor...

How hard is it to remove all the transmission parts from the engine?
Im afraid that I will never be able to put them back in the right way...
I would disassemble the whole engine. If you leave it closed, I am a strong believer that sand will get into your engine somehow (even by a small amount), and I don't like having sand in my engine.

If you take a lot of pictures during disassembly, especially of the details, it normally won't be a problem. It's just scary to do it for the first time.
And download a workshop manual or a haynes manual or something else of that type. Helps alot.
Tip: If you have parts that look identical on first sight, or parts which orientation are not that obvious, mark them somewhere visible with a color that stands out before you take the pictures.
Extra tip: Store your pictures as fast as possible on your computer/ hard drive, before your cellphone falls down in a bucket of fresh warm dirty motor oil. The bucket sends the pictures to the deepest, darkest pit never to be found again. (Ask me how I know  :-[ )
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 23, 2017, 07:22:13
Quote
So I would now-->reassemeble the "hollow" engine with no crank and pistons, reseal it

Most blasters want the engine completely disassembled, so it is easy to clean the parts after they are blasted. Very much doubt that you could possibly seal it well enough to prevent some medium getting in. Plus it is much easier to manipulate small parts rather than the complete engine castings.
I had my 750 engine hydroblasted (high pressure water with very fine medium) and the technician insisted all parts were completely disassembled. He then plugged the oil passages prior to blasting.
Best thing to do is talk to the technician first and find out how they want you to deliver the parts.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 23, 2017, 08:05:43
Quote
How hard is it to remove all the transmission parts from the engine?
Im afraid that I will never be able to put them back in the right way...

Sorry missed that question.
It is not as bad as it looks. The selectors are on 2 shafts, pull the shafts out and then extract the selector dogs. Once out reassemble to the shafts with their dogs and bag the assemblies.There are 2 shafts with all the gears on them, just pull out the shafts complete and do not take the gears off the shafts. Have zip lock bags and put each shaft in its own bag complete with all shims and clips. Take photos to refer to later. If you keep them in major assembly groups then it is not too bad. Basically you can not put the wrong shaft in the wrong position. The worst you can do is miss a shim or clip. That is why you need to include the clips and shims with the assembly they belong to. Follow the process for the other major assemblies in the transmission. If you can pull the head and crank apart then I am sure you can do the transmission.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 23, 2017, 09:24:59
Thank you tim for that useful information!

Just talked to my blasting technician, he told me that they already blasted a fully assembled guzzi engine...but the risk of course is on the side of the customer...
Thought about filling the engine up with diesel and then getting it to the blaster but I guess I have to bite the bullet and remove the gears from the case.
Do you guys think also that I will need to remove the selector cams?

Thanks!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 23, 2017, 12:50:45
Do NOT blast it with glass or silicate media. Plastic or walnut is the way to go. Tried to get my cases dry-ice blasted but the engine paint was too tough so they used plastic beads. I taped up my cases and plugged them as best i could, still there was a lot of beads left inside, the spray just tears away any tape or plastic film you may apply. Best would be as said before, just plug all oilways.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 23, 2017, 12:52:03
Transmission is easily assembled. Nothing to worry about.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 23, 2017, 12:55:02
Oh and one more thing! Completely rinse all engine parts from any oil. Media will cling to it and will suck to get out.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Aug 23, 2017, 13:06:52
So guys just made a crank plastigauge measurement...
Am I completely out of whack here? :-(

The two outer measurements were around .050 and the two inner ones around .063....

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170823/08778c312d775bd1fa17b60b19db80b2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170823/9d090d031f188e44ab37d64c764837ba.jpg)

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Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Aug 23, 2017, 19:31:26
Quote
Do you guys think also that I will need to remove the selector cams?

Yes, take everything out. I was like you and very nervous about tearing the transmission down. Especially as the casings were going to be away for a few weeks being blasted. But I kept the major assemblies bagged together, and it all went back together logically without any issues.
Hydroblasting was developed to clean up the turbine blades on jet engines. It does not actually remove any metal in the right hands, but it does create a smooth "crust" on the castings with a satin finish. Once done, it does not need any other treatment. Have a read of the following website and then decide what you do.

[url][/http://www.woodyshydroblast.com/url]

Guess we are lucky down under as there are 3 shops in Melbourne that use this process. There must be someone in Germany or nearby, but I cannot find any on Google!!!!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Aug 24, 2017, 05:51:54
Regarding getting the transmission in and out: That's fairly easy and if you need help, you know who to ask.

And with regards to Plastigauge, we haven't read the instructions, have we?  ;) Plastigauge is used on DRY bearing surfaces, you're measuring such close tolerances, that the oil will affect the outcome of the measurement. And yes, I told you: Your crank is on the upper end of the spec (or slightly beyond) and the cases most likely as well. Use some thicker oil would be my professional advice or go all in, have it reground and then spec the bearing shells correctly. (But to be fair, I'd personally go with slightly bigger tolerances...)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: datadavid on Aug 24, 2017, 08:37:58
Regarding getting the transmission in and out: That's fairly easy and if you need help, you know who to ask.

And with regards to Plastigauge, we haven't read the instructions, have we?  ;) Plastigauge is used on DRY bearing surfaces, you're measuring such close tolerances, that the oil will affect the outcome of the measurement. And yes, I told you: Your crank is on the upper end of the spec (or slightly beyond) and the cases most likely as well. Use some thicker oil would be my professional advice or go all in, have it reground and then spec the bearing shells correctly. (But to be fair, I'd personally go with slightly bigger tolerances...)
If that was done with oiled bearing surfaces, i would not be surprised if the clearance will be even bigger when measured dry.. i would not put it back together like that. Maybe measure ovality on crank and rods, and go to one or two sizes thicker bearings if all is round. I have a bunch of main bearings but no rod bearings lying around, mine all checked out around .03-.04 which will give a lot longer service life of the engine.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 04, 2017, 04:44:34
Hey guys!

Had a good weekend with a bit of progress, need to be a bit careful again, my foot still hurts (had a climbing accident while back).

I think I made a decision. I will put my Cafe Racer project on the back burner and will use the parts, gaskets and eveything else to "Hot Rod" and work on my running stock XS 750...it just makes more sense to invest time energy and money in my running XS.
My plan is to ride the XS from Barcelona to Biarritz to next years Wheels and Waves and this is only doable if I go down the route I just talked about.
Just too many unsure things with the Cafe Racer.

I will extract the motor this winter and do a top-end service and prolly replace the head with the later model one.

I have a question for you guy:

Will this XS750 Tank fit my 1T5 frame,Im kinda in love with the round shape...

Thanks in advance!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Sep 04, 2017, 04:58:18
Yuuuuup, will fit. But I recall it's a bit shorter than stock, if this is the XS750SE tank.

Btw.: I have carbs for you, if you're feeling... manly.  8)
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: XS750AU on Sep 04, 2017, 05:51:57
Quote
Will this XS750 Tank fit my 1T5 frame,Im kinda in love with the round shape...

Ryan, my XS896 went the other way. I was putting a standard tank on a special frame. It did not just bolt on. The spacing for the front rubber mounts was too wide ( the mounting studs were longer) and interfered with the tank. It was easy for me to fix with a hacksaw, but for you going the other way may mean you have to add spacers.
As Nanno said then the length from the front mounts to the rear bolt is longer on the special tank, you will need to cut out the back mount and relocate it. You can do it, just needs work.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: Ryan Stecken on Sep 04, 2017, 05:53:21
Ryan, my XS896 went the other way. I was putting a standard tank on a special frame. It did not just bolt on. The spacing for the front rubber mounts was too wide ( the mounting studs were longer) and interfered with the tank. It was easy for me to fix with a hacksaw, but for you going the other way may mean you have to add spacers.
As Nanno said then the length from the front mounts to the rear bolt is longer on the special tank, you will need to cut out the back mount and relocate it. You can do it, just needs work.

Fiddling with the mounts is no problem but my concern was the tank tunnel which is strangely wide on the XS 750 tanks....

thanks!
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: der_nanno on Sep 04, 2017, 06:17:35
The spine is the same, but the mounts are in different spots.
Title: Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750
Post by: dannywrx88 on Sep 07, 2017, 08:05:09
Whats the original tank look like


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