DO THE TON

Blood Sweat Tears and Grease => HELP! 1-800-CAFE-HELP => Topic started by: cb360j on May 09, 2018, 22:17:21

Title: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 09, 2018, 22:17:21
Background Story:

Iím newer to the world of Vintage Motorcycles, having had newer Ducatiís but never anything old enough that the dealership didnít work on... shame on me as Iím an engineer and should be doing more. The bike is a 1976 cb360 I got from my neighbor for free, and I decided to just do a full rebuild.

I did all the frame work I wanted, put on a cool snazzy new seat and repainted the frame. Had the cylinders bored in order to put .50 over wiseco pistons in due to the rings being stuck to the old pistons. I am now in the process of reassembling the engine before I put it back into the frame, put the pistons in, cylinders on, head on, all bolted down according to spec.
Now it is time to put the valve covers on, I filled the oil baths with oil and put the gasket sealer from common motor collective, then proceeded to place the valve cover on and bolt it to spec. Before I put the valve cover on, the engine turned freely and I heard air coming from the cylinders. Obviously with the valve covers off, the rocker arms were not pushing down on the valves. The problem is that the engine will spin about half a rotation till it comes to a dead stop, not trying to bend a valve, I donít push down on it any harder and I take the valve cover back off.


Here is my thought process so please help me with this and correct me where I am wrong: the valve cover off means the engine can spin freely with no worries of the valves coming in contact with the engine. When the valve cover on, the rocker arms push the valves down and cause them to come in contact with the piston causing the engine to not complete itís stroke. Assuming the timing is off, or the valves need adjustment, Is this a problem I need to address with the valve cover off? If so, how do I go about this. Thank you in advance.



Here is some pictures of the bike in its current state in case yíall wanted to throw some opinions at that too Haha
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on May 09, 2018, 22:22:43
Sounds like cam timing is off or you didn't tighten cam sprocket  bolts fully?
Trek will be along shortly  8)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 09, 2018, 22:32:23
Sounds like cam timing is off or you didn't tighten cam sprocket  bolts fully?
Trek will be along shortly  8)



Youíre one of the people I was really hoping would help with this.
The bolts are tightened all the way. One thing I wasnít sure of as I couldnít find it in the service manual, is if there is a correct orientation that the cam sprocket should bolt to the cam, one side or the other?

How do I go about setting cam timing?

Thank you!
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: irk miller on May 10, 2018, 08:51:43
You need to align the two hash marks on the cam sprocket with the top edge of the head when the motor is at TDC.  Please confirm this is the case.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on May 10, 2018, 11:15:57
put left cylinder at TDC then it's just a matter of lining up cam sprocket lines with gasket face. Don't rotate crank, you 'walk' chain around sprocket and when it's in correct position (with front run tight) it will slip onto cam. then rotate cam to line up bolt holes
Just downloadedm picture so I could enlarge it. Looks like cam timing is way off?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 10, 2018, 11:39:45
I will be doing this as soon as I get home from work. Thank you all
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 10, 2018, 21:50:30
put left cylinder at TDC then it's just a matter of lining up cam sprocket lines with gasket face. Don't rotate crank, you 'walk' chain around sprocket and when it's in correct position (with front run tight) it will slip onto cam. then rotate cam to line up bolt holes
Just downloadedm picture so I could enlarge it. Looks like cam timing is way off?



I set the left cylinder to top dead center, then did as you said to walk the chain around the cam till the hash marks arenít aligned with the face of the head surface. I put the cover back on and whenís rotating it still slightly catches. Iím not entirely sure if this is correct or not still. Any insight?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: irk miller on May 10, 2018, 21:58:37


I set the left cylinder to top dead center, then did as you said to walk the chain around the cam till the hash marks arenít aligned with the face of the head surface.
   walk the chain around the cam till the hash marks are aligned with the face of the head surface.  Is that a typo?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 10, 2018, 22:18:14
Haha! Yes that is a typo.

So I restarted undid the bolts to the sprocket and took then cam chain tensioner out.

Here is my steps

Put tensioners in place.
Align Left top dead center
Align sprocket hawk marks
Tighten down sprocket bolts
Install cam chain tensioner holder
Put cover on just to see if anything was better but it still is catching.
Thoughts?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: irk miller on May 10, 2018, 23:52:01
Can you see where it is catching?  It could be a lot of things, and without any idea where the catch originates from it will be hard to figure out.  What does your cam chain tensioner look like, out of curiosity?  There will be loops at the bottom and the top.  Which way do they go?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 11, 2018, 01:16:40
I canít see where itís catching as the valve covers are on when this is happening.
The cam chain tensioner is brand new.

Here is the way the tensioners are put in before I put the tensioner cover on.

Let me cover my bases here:
- the left cylinder is set to top dead center when the ďLTĒ mark is aligned.
- and the hash marks should be completely horizontal to the head surface (top side).
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on May 11, 2018, 02:34:08
spins freely without the top cover on?

what does that tacho drive look like?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 11, 2018, 10:23:30
Correct, spins freely without top cover on. But when it is on, I will rotate the crank the correct direction and about a half rotation later it will stop and not want to move further. I should have looked at what position this was happening to give a better reference.

Tachometer drive gear is perfectly fine. Spins freely, does not seem to have anything wrong.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on May 11, 2018, 10:49:57
Do you have thrust washer on cam end? (right side)
It's unlikely but rocker pressure could push cam sideways enough to make things 'catch' ?
You did back off all the tappet adjusters so there was no possibility of them catching on top of valve stems?
It is possible to bend tops of valves enough for them to stick in guides (unlikely but possible)
You did have the front run of chain tight? (all the slack at rear where tensioner lives)
Can you see any 'witness marks' of something catching? (sprocket is 'flat' against mounting flange)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 11, 2018, 11:19:01
Do you have thrust washer on cam end? (right side)
It's unlikely but rocker pressure could push cam sideways enough to make things 'catch' ?
You did back off all the tappet adjusters so there was no possibility of them catching on top of valve stems?
It is possible to bend tops of valves enough for them to stick in guides (unlikely but possible)
You did have the front run of chain tight? (all the slack at rear where tensioner lives)
Can you see any 'witness marks' of something catching? (sprocket is 'flat' against mounting flange)



I do not have a thrust washer, and in all honesty, have not heard of this but I will be reading of this immediately. Is this something that is required?

No, I did not back off the tappet adjusters, but I will be doing so as soon as possible.

Correct, front run of chain is tight.

No witness marks of anything. I do not understand what you mean by the sprocket being flat against mounting flange though.


Again, thank you to everyone who has helped thus far.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: irk miller on May 11, 2018, 11:25:27
In the first pic, it appears that your cam chain is all the way at the edge of the tensioner.  This is likely due to the missing thrust washer.  The thrust washer takes up the slack from a small gap at the end of the cam.  You should've had to remove it along with your cam.  But, as PJ would know better, this may have been a service bulletin and not originally installed at the factory.  I can't remember.  Pretty sure he's suggesting that it's possible that the bolts or some part of the cam mount for the cam sprocket is hitting the head.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on May 11, 2018, 11:45:25
I've seen one or two with burrs and nicks on cam flange causing sprocket to run out of true, a couple have 'bent' flanges (pretty much just about to break) making chain 'run out' never seen one bad enough to 'lock' motor though.
Can you post pic of inside of rocker cover?
Just in case it's something simple. ;D
If motor turns over with tappets backed out level to rocker arm, cam timing is still 'off'
You can adjust them one at a time to see which is causing problem then pull head and check that valve is OK.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 11, 2018, 16:13:48
I've seen one or two with burrs and nicks on cam flange causing sprocket to run out of true, a couple have 'bent' flanges (pretty much just about to break) making chain 'run out' never seen one bad enough to 'lock' motor though.
Can you post pic of inside of rocker cover?
Just in case it's something simple. ;D
If motor turns over with tappets backed out level to rocker arm, cam timing is still 'off'
You can adjust them one at a time to see which is causing problem then pull head and check that valve is OK.


In my "infinite" wisdom (complete sarcasm) of my 22 year old self, I somehow skipped over the thrust washer part in the manual.. shame on me.
It is quite possible I took it off when initially removing the cam and then forgot to put it in, but I do not remember the cam having one.

As soon as I get home I will post picture of inside of the rocker cover, it would be a blessing if it was something simple haha.

backing out the tappets is just adjusting valve lash all the way out correct?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on May 11, 2018, 16:51:21
Backing adjusters out gives about 3~4mm 'lash' and should allow motor to turn over even if cam timing is still out
Adjust one valve to spec (0.003" ex, 0.002" int) and turn it over.
If you post a pic of cam position before fitting cover I should be able to tell if cam timing is right. I have pictures of 'degree'sd in' cam in m y 360 build/blog so you can see how it should look.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.150
Reply 159
 You do have the top tensioner holder in place?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: Sonreir on May 11, 2018, 17:44:32
It might also be worth noting that you should have the followers in the "down" position when you put the rocker cover on. Otherwise the tappets might lodge beside the valves instead of sitting over them. This would cause the whole assembly to lock up and possibly bend a valve stem.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 12, 2018, 19:22:01
Ok. I am infact blind, because I had the thrust washer in a bag beside me even labeled. Installed it. Re positioned crank and cam timing. Here are the pictures you asked for pj

Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on May 12, 2018, 20:28:38
Thrust washer goes on other end of cam.Where is the tensioner top cup?Looks like you need to re-set tensioner as well, bit too much of tensioner blade sticking up.What your describing is what happens when early style blade breaks. I`m suspecting you don`t have top cup fitted?BTW, you never try to fit rocker cover without removing inspection caps and backing off adjusters.It's easier to do while taking things apart
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on May 12, 2018, 20:40:20
Also with LT lined up, left cam lobes should be down, correct?

Sent from my SM-G955U using DO THE TON mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=89466)

Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on May 12, 2018, 20:51:19
Also with LT lined up, left cam lobes should be down, correct?

Sent from my SM-G955U using DO THE TON mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=89466)

Yes, it's being assembled on overlap
It's so 'automatic' for me I've had to really think if it makes a difference.
Too 'brain dead' from looking after Jaxon but I think it does.Well spotted
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 13, 2018, 18:05:37
Cam timing officially set correctly. Lobes in down position. Washer on correct side. Valve tappets backed all the way out, engine spins freely now. Not as freely as it would with the head cover off, this is my only reference to how it spins now. In my experience with automobile engines they tend to turn freely so Iím not sure if the engine is now correct or not.
Problems:

Installing the cam chain tensioner, as in the manual the tensioner is sticking to far up as pj pointed out, but it seems to be in the correct position. How is this solved, or are there any problems associated with this?

Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on May 13, 2018, 20:21:37
the tensioner needs to be backed off... which can be done by splitting the case open, not fun.

the alternative is to source a length of 3mm threaded rod, make a loop in one end of it, and then use the other ended to thread into the tensioner through the case plug - use the loop to pull the tensioner out (with the top adjusting lock bolt backed off) and then tighten up the lock bolt.

EDIT: here is the thread on how to do it (http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/1-project-logs/218-cb-360-project-42.html#post36934)
I wish I knew what happened to Lethal and his 360... strange when someone you feel connected to (though never met) disappears
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on May 13, 2018, 21:01:32
Instead of threaded rod I've used old spokes, surprisingly, Honda ones from 70's don't work as they are 1/8" Whitworth thread. Harley |Davidson uses metric
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 14, 2018, 00:05:01
How exactly does this work?
Just curious as I donít know what the tensioner looks like inside of the case.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on May 14, 2018, 02:25:10
How exactly does this work?
Just curious as I donít know what the tensioner looks like inside of the case.
It's a spring loaded c shaped kinda wacky thingy. The top "adjuster" locks it into place, so if you did what I did and backed it off and then did the tensioner it will spring to the most closed or "up" position
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 14, 2018, 10:46:32
It's a spring loaded c shaped kinda wacky thingy. The top "adjuster" locks it into place, so if you did what I did and backed it off and then did the tensioner it will spring to the most closed or "up" position

So when doing this, is there anything in particular to watch out for ?

Let me get my understanding correct. With the adjusting bolt out, I am threading what is essentially another bolt into the tensioner push bar, then pulling it? Any particular distance it needs to come out? Or will there be any clicking or details indicating that this is done correctly?

Sorry for my ignorance on this, just trying to learn what I can.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on May 14, 2018, 10:56:33
So when doing this, is there anything in particular to watch out for ?

Let me get my understanding correct. With the adjusting bolt out, I am threading what is essentially another bolt into the tensioner push bar, then pulling it? Any particular distance it needs to come out? Or will there be any clicking or details indicating that this is done correctly?

Sorry for my ignorance on this, just trying to learn what I can.
Just pull it out as much as you can, then sinch up the lock bolt. Once you get the motor timed correctly and back together, you back off that lock bolt and you'll hear the tensioner snap into place, then do your rocket clearances, then do the ignition timing
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on May 14, 2018, 11:45:09
If you do a quick search for CB360 cam chain tensioner recall it should come up with multiple posts of the Honda Service Bulletin
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on May 23, 2018, 01:02:50
Sorry for the late response. But update time: fixed the cam chain tensioner, therefore every is now together as it is supposed to be. Going to be putting into the frame this week! Will post pictures when in. Thank you all so much for the help
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jun 25, 2018, 01:09:19
Alright very late post. The headers that came with the bike do not seem to be the correct headers. Or maybe the flanges that came with it are not correct, as they donít hold the headers on (havenít noticed this as I havenít even looked at them since I got the bike itself). But here is a bunch of pictures of the bike now.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on Jun 25, 2018, 01:24:30
there is a two piece collar that the flange butts against to hold the header in place

part 2 on the diagram

(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTMGa56QmbSIM9SNRAxWw4G9JzDFbrIVDPuWw0QP1C29Exr81Qw)

(http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/attachments/67408d1445694144-does-look-right-picture-header-opening-cb360-img_20151024_103005.jpg)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 09, 2018, 15:51:45
So originally when I pulled the engine, I backed off the rear brake adjuster nut and just pulled out the rod and from there the pedal was able to move down enough to pull the engine out. Now that I am putting it back together, I put the adjuster nut back on and tightened it down but when I push the pedal down it will not 1: return back up, and 2: the rear brake will not engage.
Anyone have any insight as to how I may be doing this incorrectly?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Jul 09, 2018, 16:28:38
If you didn't take brake mechanism off frame you shouldn't be having a problem. Sounds like return spring behind frame tube isn't fitted right or could possibly be over stretched? More pictures  ;D
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 09, 2018, 17:28:42
Will do as soon as I get off work.

Also, I happen to love the rusty gold on the gas tank but the inside is also rusty. Any methods to clean this out?
Autozone sells some stuff called EvapoRust but have not given it a try.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Jul 09, 2018, 17:42:31
Trek swears by it. You need to knock the worst off first, I`ve heard short `deck screws` work real well to get all the `nooks and crannies` ;)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 11, 2018, 22:41:11
Fixed the break issue, the spring just wasnít on, I swear I should be more observant before I post on here.

New issue:

Just installed the clutch cable, and did as the FSM said to the T. But the bike is in a constant Ďneutralí, I can change the gears freely without pulling the clutch. Also, the lever will not return.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on Jul 11, 2018, 22:57:08
Fixed the break issue, the spring just wasnít on, I swear I should be more observant before I post on here.

New issue:

Just installed the clutch cable, and did as the FSM said to the T. But the bike is in a constant Ďneutralí, I can change the gears freely without pulling the clutch. Also, the lever will not return.

make sure you're not missing the actuation rod ball bearing (it's very common to fall out while servicing or long periods of being apart)

(http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=64144.0;attach=135492)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 11, 2018, 23:12:19
The ball bearing is certainly there. One thing Iím not sure of, is when you correctly tighten the clutch, what do you do with the top adjuster nut? Do you tighten it back down? It didnít specify in FSM
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 12, 2018, 00:32:34
Another random question: if a motorcycle is not running, are the intake valves open or closed?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: irk miller on Jul 12, 2018, 00:45:02
Depends on where it is in the stroke at rest.  Could be one or the other or neither.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: Sderbyshire on Jul 12, 2018, 05:52:26
Another random question: if a motorcycle is not running, are the intake valves open or closed?

Depends where the cam was when the engine stopped.

All valves could be closed, or any other combination!
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: jpmobius on Jul 12, 2018, 09:09:53
There are 2 adjustments to the clutch.  One is only for the cable itself.  The other is the throw out mechanism, and is the one on the side cover (not on the cable).  First, with the side cover off, the clutch should be engaged (like the lever is not being squeezed.)  You can check this by putting the transmission in any gear and seeing that the the engine tries to turn when you turn the rear wheel.  With the cover still off, squeeze the lever and observe it functions normally though with very little effort as you are only pulling on the throw out return spring.  You can look at this function inside the cover.  Also notice that when you pull in the lever, the throw out moves in and out as well as rotates.  This in and out motion is what pushes the clutch plates apart, disengaging it and allowing the engine to spin without driving the transmission and hence, the rear wheel.  In the center of the throw out mechanism, there is a short threaded shaft that is the adjustment for the throw out.  It is needed to allow for the accumulated manufacturing tolerances of the clutch pack, the case dimensions and all the other components that make up the clutch throw out components.  Take the lock nut loose, and unscrew the adjusting shaft a good ways.  If the parts are crusty and the adjuster does not turn freely, take it back apart and clean everything so it does.  Reinstall the side cover, and the lever should still have the same tension as before - just the return spring.   Screw in the adjuster until you feel resistance.  The resistance occurs when all the slack is removed from the assembly and the clutch starts to disengage.  You don't want this unless you are pulling the lever, so once you feel all the slack is gone, back the adjusting screw out 1.4 to 1/2 turn and lock it in place with the lock nut.  After this is done, adjust the cable.  This is similar in that you want almost all the slack out of the cable, but not so tight that you have the clutch partially disengaged.  You should have about 1/4" of motion at the end of the lever before you feel the strong resistance of starting disengaging the clutch.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on Jul 12, 2018, 14:35:41
Also make sure the cam part is in there correctly, getting stuck engaged may be because the cutout is in the wrong spot causing it to rub on the notch
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 12, 2018, 22:29:47
I adjusted the cable over and over, still nothing. Their strange thing, it changes gears without pulling the clutch lever. When it goes into gear, the tire does not spin.... so someone guide my thinking here, but if the clutch is in theory engaged, and allowing the transmission to go through the gears, then wouldnít the rear wheel spin when itís in gear?
 Thank you all for the help btw, I really appreciate it
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on Jul 12, 2018, 23:36:11
I adjusted the cable over and over, still nothing. Their strange thing, it changes gears without pulling the clutch lever. When it goes into gear, the tire does not spin.... so someone guide my thinking here, but if the clutch is in theory engaged, and allowing the transmission to go through the gears, then wouldnít the rear wheel spin when itís in gear?
 Thank you all for the help btw, I really appreciate it

it's a sequential gearbox, it will shift with the clutch engaged or disengaged

generally the trans/engine needs to be in motion for the bike to shift up past say 2nd or 3rd.

im going to go with PJs instincts and suggest that the clutch may not be properly assembled and engaging.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 13, 2018, 10:24:55
I should have rebuilt the clutch from the start, do not know what I was thinking.
What else should I go ahead and replace while I am down there? Any particular brand of clutch I should get?


Another question: Should The clutch be adjusted when the bike is in gear or out of gear? Or does it even matter?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: jpmobius on Jul 13, 2018, 12:51:13
There is no actual adjustment to the clutch itself, only to the throw out mechanism that operates it.  If you have not had the clutch apart, probably it is ok.

Take the left cover back off (the one with the throw out mechanism on it)  While spinning the back wheel, put the transmission in any gear.  The wheel should stop because it is now connected to the engine which is not turning.  If it spins when in gear, there is likely a problem with the clutch. 
If it stops, leave it in gear and put the cover back on.  If the wheel will now spin, it is because there is an issue with the throw out causing the clutch to be disengaged simply by being installed.  Leave the cover on making sure all the bolts are installed and correctly tightened, and take the cable off at the hand lever so it will not interact with the throw out adjustment.  Adjust the throw out by loosening the lock nut and backing out the adjuster until it no longer is pushing on the push rod.  The clutch should now be engaged and the wheel will no longer be able to spin.  Screw the adjuster in and out until you feel where is just contacts the push rod, then back off 1/4 turn.  Hold the adjuster in place and tighten the lock nut.  The throw out is now adjusted and will not need further adjustment until you start riding the bike.   Now put the cable back on and adjust.

You transmission is not designed to work unless it is spinning so do not try to force it into any gear unless it is.  There is a lot of free play between the engagement dogs of all the gears, so it often happens that a gear can be selected even if the gears are not turning, but it is not intended to be put in any gear while stationary.  This is why sometimes it will readily click into gear, and other times will seem to do nothing.  If you turn the rear wheel, it will always click right into gear.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 13, 2018, 15:11:44
When the cover is off, i can put it in gear and the wheel will not spin. When I place the cover back on, the wheel will still not spin. So does this mean it is likely that the throw out is fine?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: irk miller on Jul 13, 2018, 15:59:41
The outside of your clutch basket is geared and linked to your crankshaft.  The inside of the basket is linked to your counter sprocket. When you pull the cable, the mechanism on the left side of the motor rotates up onto ball bearings, which pushes the rod through motor and pushes the inside part of the clutch basket out, which releases pressure from the plates.  The at rest position of the clutch is for the plates to be engaged, thus allowing the interior and exterior components of the clutch to spin together.  If your wheel doesn't move because the motor is at rest and the transmission engaged, that means your clutch mechanism is not engaging. 
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 13, 2018, 16:43:24
The outside of your clutch basket is geared and linked to your crankshaft.  The inside of the basket is linked to your counter sprocket. When you pull the cable, the mechanism on the left side of the motor rotates up onto ball bearings, which pushes the rod through motor and pushes the inside part of the clutch basket out, which releases pressure from the plates.  The at rest position of the clutch is for the plates to be engaged, thus allowing the interior and exterior components of the clutch to spin together.  If your wheel doesn't move because the motor is at rest and the transmission engaged, that means your clutch mechanism is not engaging.


So if the clutch mechanism is not engaging, would the next step be to pull the cover off the other side and ensure that the clutch discs are not seized together or to ensure the clutch rod is pushing in the correct place?
If my understanding is correct, the clutch rod simply just runs through the transmission and can be removed quite easily by pulling it straight out?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: irk miller on Jul 13, 2018, 16:56:05
Yep.  It's just a straight rod.  If the bike sat a long time, then there is a strong possibility the discs are stuck together.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 13, 2018, 20:42:59
Well, took the clutch pack apart. The front couples of discs werenít stuck together but the back ones were for sure. Put them in some oil and they came apart but will probably buy a new one anyway.

Maybe try to find a CJ oil pickup while Iím at it in here.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: raptormeat on Jul 17, 2018, 02:58:39
I should have rebuilt the clutch from the start, do not know what I was thinking.
What else should I go ahead and replace while I am down there? Any particular brand of clutch I should get?


Another question: Should The clutch be adjusted when the bike is in gear or out of gear? Or does it even matter?

why you are in the bottom end, replace the kickstart plate with one from a cj360 instead, they are more robust and designed to let you kickstart every time for the life of the bike. everyone has same issue, kickstart rattle once the plate fails. .. also doubling up on one of the springs is harmless.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 17, 2018, 09:13:32
Because the clutch wasnít engaging, Iím not necessarily in the bottom end. Just have the the side cover off while replacing clutch pack.

Doubling up on springs?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Jul 20, 2018, 12:44:51
'double up on springs' ? I've got no idea either. If plates were stuck, clutch wouldn't disengage. If it wasn't engaging (no drive) the assembly was wrong or adjustment too tight by a LOT. Heavy duty clutch springs are worthwhile but I've never understood the 'throw new parts and hope that cures things' majority seem to use. Clutch springs were barely adequate when new, if plates are in spec and not burned, no point in changing them.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 20, 2018, 13:04:55
'double up on springs' ? I've got no idea either. If plates were stuck, clutch wouldn't disengage. If it wasn't engaging (no drive) the assembly was wrong or adjustment too tight by a LOT. Heavy duty clutch springs are worthwhile but I've never understood the 'throw new parts and hope that cures things' majority seem to use. Clutch springs were barely adequate when new, if plates are in spec and not burned, no point in changing them.

It was no longer in spec which is why I went ahead and ordered new with heavier springs as well. Plates were stuck (even after soaking in oil for a couple days), so it would not disengage.
I pulled the clutch rod and cleaned it well because the sprocket side was nasty. Cleaned the sprocket cover, and took the clutch mechanism apart (where the ball bearing is) and cleaned it well and added new grease just to make sure it is working properly. Now once I install the new clutch everything should work properly.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: Sderbyshire on Jul 20, 2018, 14:31:58
Good luck with the clutch, hope it works out.

Where did you source heavy duty clutch springs, i need some for my 390 and have only found ebc here in the uk which i am doubtful of.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 20, 2018, 15:56:35
Good luck with the clutch, hope it works out.

Where did you source heavy duty clutch springs, i need some for my 390 and have only found ebc here in the uk which i am doubtful of.


Thank you! I really hope it works as well.

I got my clutch and springs from Barnett Clutches and Cable, this is the link http://www.barnettclutches.com/251/honda/0/0/1975-honda-cb360-g,t.html
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: raptormeat on Jul 20, 2018, 22:24:02
(https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cb360-sport-1974-usa-handle-switchlevercable_bighu0231f9001_539f.gif)

as a side note, if you remove #25 from this picture, you will never have the dreaded clutch pop again. also allows for a motion pro clutch cable, rather than oem, as that also causes it. (too long outer sheath compared to inner cable).  makes for a nice light squeeze to disengage.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 20, 2018, 23:14:34
Remove the lock nut from the clutch adjustment screw?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on Jul 21, 2018, 00:21:35
The locknut has nothing to do with anything other than keeping the adjusting barrel screw properly adjusted.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Jul 21, 2018, 14:16:21
The locknut has nothing to do with anything other than keeping the adjusting barrel screw properly adjusted.
+1  Correct thing to do is remove ferrule and shorten outer cable
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 23, 2018, 20:28:56
Anything special I should do before installing new clutch?

Here are some stupid questions

Does the friction plate go in first or does the other plate go in first?
Should the clutch rod be pushed in or out? (Assuming in)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Jul 23, 2018, 21:07:40
Soak friction plates in engine oil for 24 hrs. Steel plate should be at back of clutch hub then friction, steel, etc
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 23, 2018, 21:10:47
I had read somewhere that it was friction plate first. Glad I asked.
Is there a particular torque the bolts need to go down to in the pressure plate?

Plates have been soaking since yesterday
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Jul 24, 2018, 12:48:56
The number 1 plater is thicker and 'fixed' to the hub so a friction is first 'movable' plate. I'll get a pic for you
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 24, 2018, 13:04:24
Yeah I think I learned that as of yesterday. I went to put on the steel plate first then friction etc. and got to the end and realized there are only 7 steel plates and 8 friction plates so starting with a steel plate first didnít make any sense. So I redid it. All is well now.
Problem Iím currently facing now, yesterday when installing new springs they were more tough to tighten down and one of the bolt head broke off in the clutch basket. Luckily a friend has a parts cb360 he said I can take the basket assembly from
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Jul 24, 2018, 13:10:15
If head broke off it's easy to go from back with 5/64" or 4.5mm drill bit. Usually the bolt will wind out when drill starts cutting.. Check all the bolts for 'necking', very common for them to be stretched as torque is only about 9ft/lbs, they normally get around 14ft/lbs with a 1/4" drive ratchet. It's possible to exceed torque with a 10mm screwdriver socket
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 26, 2018, 22:31:41
Got the clutch back together.

Is it possible to have a clutch cable that is to long?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on Jul 26, 2018, 22:44:44
Got the clutch back together.

Is it possible to have a clutch cable that is to long?

they usually are and that's what causes the "clutch pop" (not, as others have said, the adjuster nut)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 27, 2018, 09:09:59
Does anyone know of a shorter cable ? Or will I have to modify this one ?

I am sure someone has tried the 3" shorter motion pro cable, is it any good?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Jul 27, 2018, 13:19:23
If you have a Dremel it's dead easy to shorten outer sheath. Use sharp knife to cut around plastic cover, Dremel with cutting wheel through the 'spring' part cutting 'straight' so cable end stays 'flat'(careful not to cut inner wire)' You may need to cut through 1-1/2 coils due the angle they are wound. Unwind' metal piece with 2 pairs pliers, pull plastic out of ferrule and slide ferrule back onto sheath. I usually cut plastic back so ferrule doesn't sit on it as it's a pretty tight fit. (maybe 1/16" inside ferrule so it doesn't look 'bodged') You only need about 1/4" off outer but if you cut more it isn't an issue as there is plenty of adjustment
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 27, 2018, 13:33:28
If you have a Dremel it's dead easy to shorten outer sheath. Use sharp knife to cut around plastic cover, Dremel with cutting wheel through the 'spring' part cutting 'straight' so cable end stays 'flat'(careful not to cut inner wire)' You may need to cut through 1-1/2 coils due the angle they are wound. Unwind' metal piece with 2 pairs pliers, pull plastic out of ferrule and slide ferrule back onto sheath. I usually cut plastic back so ferrule doesn't sit on it as it's a pretty tight fit. (maybe 1/16" inside ferrule so it doesn't look 'bodged') You only need about 1/4" off outer but if you cut more it isn't an issue as there is plenty of adjustment

Well it seems more like the outer sheath/shielding is actually to short and the cable inside is actually to long.
With the clutch tightened all the way in, and the adjuster all the way out, it does not rest inside the upper cable adjuster.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 27, 2018, 13:50:59
Took the actuator apart to clean... Noticed the three ball bearings that sit inside is gone. Does anyone have those ball bearings or even a new sprocket cover with the entire actuator for sale?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: advCo on Jul 27, 2018, 14:06:21
I had to shorten my cable overall because I ran clip-ons. But I vaguely remember the exposed cable being too long as you stated. Pull the excess cable all teh way to one end and measure from the end of the jacket to the end of the ferrule. IIRC I had to take about 1/4" off that length to make it work (plus the 6" or whatever I removed to accommodate for clipons)

Took the actuator apart to clean... Noticed the three ball bearings that sit inside is gone. Does anyone have those ball bearings or even a new sprocket cover with the entire actuator for sale?

Are you sure its not greased in there? Those balls should not come out of their housing.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 27, 2018, 14:13:28
I had to shorten my cable overall because I ran clip-ons. But I vaguely remember the exposed cable being too long as you stated. Pull the excess cable all teh way to one end and measure from the end of the jacket to the end of the ferrule. IIRC I had to take about 1/4" off that length to make it work (plus the 6" or whatever I removed to accommodate for clipons)

Are you sure its not greased in there? Those balls should not come out of their housing.

I have a set of almost flat drag bars on the bike, I did not think that going down only this much would effect the cable so much, would you advise to cut the cable to a shorter length?

Yep, I called my buddy with the parts bike before work and he said his were in there and he would drop off his entire actuator mechanism at the house so no worries there anymore.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: advCo on Jul 27, 2018, 14:14:57
Depends on how much slack you have with your bars and whether or not you can route it to take up said slack. If you can't re-route it to take up the slack then yeah, cut it and solder a new end on.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: Sderbyshire on Jul 27, 2018, 14:19:30
I have flat Renthal bars on my CB360 ( 390 😀) and routed the standard wiring through them.

It was quite fiddly as the alloy bars have significantly thicker walls, i did not cut the cables.

Steve
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Jul 27, 2018, 14:25:59
Even though there is a 'cage' the beaqrings can come out. Pretty sure you can just fit 1/4" ball bearing (maybe 3/16"?)  I used to do a lot of cycling so I had some sitting around. 1/4" on pushrod, 3/16" in cage. I would fit all 3 just to be on the safe side. You can use 2 pieces of tube to swage the cage and hold bearings in place (3/16" bore, old brake or fuel line?)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Jul 27, 2018, 21:39:33
I put everything back together 100%. AND still cannot get the clutch to work properly. When the bike is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, the wheel will not spin. Does this mean that the actuator isnít pushing the clutch rod enough to compresses the clutch? What on earth am I missing here
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: Sderbyshire on Jul 28, 2018, 06:12:14
I put everything back together 100%. AND still cannot get the clutch to work properly. When the bike is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, the wheel will not spin. Does this mean that the actuator isnít pushing the clutch rod enough to compresses the clutch? What on earth am I missing here

Missing ball bearing ?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: jpmobius on Jul 28, 2018, 09:16:17
With everything assembled and the right side cover off to expose the clutch, you should see the pressure plate (the top of the clutch pack) move in and out against the springs when you operate the hand lever.  It is a small but easily observable distance.  There is not usually much you can do to assemble the clutch so it doesn't work aside from installing too many or too thick plates.  If you do not see this motion, either the actuating rod length is too short for some reason ( left cover not tight, ball missing etc.) or the throw out has a problem (missing ball(s) or clock orientation is wrong.  With the left cover off, you should see the throw out rotate near 90o when you pull the hand lever, and should see the mechanism expand the 1/16" ish needed to separate the clutch pack.  With the cover off, the pressure needed to operate the lever is only that needed to overcome the return spring.  The pressure needed with the cover on should be MUCH greater as you now must also compress all the clutch springs.  If you don't see this increase, you are not pushing the clutch apart.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Jul 28, 2018, 16:44:18
Wheel should turn but it won't be free spinning. YWith bike on ground you can rock itto release 'stiction'? You have a lot of surface area, hydraulic drag will be high.You could try holding clutch lever to bar and opening plates with a small flat screwdriver so oil can drain from them
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 03, 2018, 14:20:28
Does anyone have the clutch retainer for sale? Honda part number 22860-286-000.

It is #8 inside the clutch actuator mechanism.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Aug 03, 2018, 14:35:06
As this is the second clutch issue here at present, I would check the sprocket cover lifter mechanism. Looks like the wrong return spring was fitted in the CL build, maybe you have same or similar problem?You'll have to post a link to retainer, as there isn't anything in left side copver but lifter mechanism. The clutch hub retainer is just a 1" circlip
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 03, 2018, 16:08:05
As this is the second clutch issue here at present, I would check the sprocket cover lifter mechanism. Looks like the wrong return spring was fitted in the CL build, maybe you have same or similar problem?You'll have to post a link to retainer, as there isn't anything in left side copver but lifter mechanism. The clutch hub retainer is just a 1" circlip


https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb360tk0-1975-usa_model440/retainer-ball_22860286000/#.W2SNn9JKiUl
this is the part I am looking for.
The spring in mine is original as far as I know, but this part is missing.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Aug 03, 2018, 21:21:52
I have a box of 'junk' I bought off eBay years ago, will take a look through it for one of those. It's possible to just stick 3 bearings (I think 3/16", Honda used a lot of 'inch' parts) into bottom of ramps with grease and assemble for testing. As long as you don't go 'over center' it will work fine
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 04, 2018, 00:23:25
Man PJ if you did Iíd sure be grateful! Hereís a picture of the inside at the moment. Tell me what you think of the spring as well. But Iím almost certain itís stock, been wrong before
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 04, 2018, 14:26:39
Will the bearing retainer from a cl350 work in the 360?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Aug 04, 2018, 15:29:56
Should be same, may even be a better bearing retainer if I remember right. I would completely remove the back piece, just in case some idiot put bearings behind it. I'll be looking for parts in couple of hours, have to go to my other stepdaughters in few mins.If you can't get one and I cant find spare, I'll let you have the one I showed in picrtures (just the bearings part)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 04, 2018, 17:21:22
Just bid on a cl350 actuator on eBay. Comes with entire actuator, plus spring, plus the retainer so hopefully should work if I win
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Aug 04, 2018, 21:44:36
let me know if you end up needing bearing thing
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 04, 2018, 22:11:29
WIll do! Thank you so much
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 06, 2018, 12:35:47
Is there any particular benefit to having brake rotor drilled? Other than slight heat dissipation and looking cool?
Also, I currently have on the bike a master cylinder with the built in brake light pressure switch. Is it better to go with the traditional style or would this be easier/ better?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on Aug 06, 2018, 13:41:49
more about weight than it is about cooling

stainless steel rotor is quite heavy

you're probably go through more brake pads
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Aug 06, 2018, 14:12:10
Pad wear isn't a lot different in my experience. Lighter rotor will help steering and suspension, you only get better cooling if holes are smaller than rotor thickness. Brake works better when wet as you don't get 'steam' layer under pads Slightly less surface area also helps rotor get up to temp faster. I haven't found any real downside to drilled rotors, in fact, old Yamaha's wear pads better with drilled than with plain. I removed about 2lbs on my XS650  by drilling holes. Organic (wet) pads worked fantastic but wore out crazy fast (2,000 miles, more due to my riding style and sand in Florida) I rarely get more than 5,000 miles from front brake pads on any of my bikes. I prefer EBC 'HH' pads when I can get them. As for master cylinder, if switch doesn't get in the way of anything, it makes sense to use an integrated unit. I bought a couple of Brembo pressure switches to use on some of my bikes, easier than stock unions with split lines, plus, one piece brake hose looks better in most cases
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 13, 2018, 11:24:44
Got the retainer in Friday along with an entire extra clutch actuator with all the correct pieces, ebay seller was very kind to send all the bits.

Got it installed, and adjusted. The new springs from barnett make the clutch pull super heavy (compared to my cb550 clutch), for anyone looking for heavier springs.

The only negative side to that is now I have clutch pop. But at least that is a step in the right direction and can be sorted out with enough patience.

Does anyone have a perfect way to definitively adjust out clutch pop? Or will I just have to find that perfect middle point?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Aug 13, 2018, 12:16:10
If you haven't been checking this thread (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=72090.msg907172#msg907172) you should as it's ame problem your having. I've posted a lot of pictures to try and explain how things should be working
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 13, 2018, 12:19:20
If you haven't been checking this thread (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=72090.msg907172#msg907172) you should as it's ame problem your having. I've posted a lot of pictures to try and explain how things should be working


Was literally just reading that thread.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Aug 13, 2018, 12:29:06
LOL,  8)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: raptormeat on Aug 14, 2018, 23:42:53
Does anyone have a perfect way to definitively adjust out clutch pop? Or will I just have to find that perfect middle point?
did you try my advice?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Aug 14, 2018, 23:50:42
 Have 'cover' adjuster backed all the way off, set cable so pointer lines up, fit cover and adjust screw so lift mechanism contacts push-rod.I'm pretty sure that's how it was done during assembly  8)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 15, 2018, 15:56:17
raptormeat I actually did not try it. But I did get it to adjust properly so no more pop for me thankfully. Just took about 45 minutes of sitting and really focusing on it ha!

Pj that is pretty much exactly what I did, it helped visualize where the adjustment actually was.

I don't know if anyone has looked at the original picture of how I the bike is, but since the seat was so low profile, I elected to lower the back of the tank for the purpose of making lines flow a little better and because with the original tank mount it looked goofy showing.
So what I did was heat the flange where the rubber originally went and bent it 90 degrees down. Took a simple piece of flat stock and drilled two holes and threaded them, then drilled two holes in the tank flange that is now bent and I took two screws that go through them and screw into the new mount.

It was kind of a good idea at the time, but I want something a little cooler and maybe more simple. How do most of you mount your fuel tanks?

I was thinking of using a similar concept, making the flange slightly larger and using one of the quicklatch hoodpins for cars. Thoughts?

Here is the link for what I am talking about
https://www.quik-latch.com/black-anodized-mini-quik-latch.html
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: yorkie350 on Aug 21, 2018, 10:03:32
Hi bud sorry to steal ya thunder but just put yozzer74 gs550 up for BOTM cos I was able to post the pics hope ya vote too bud its a cool looking ride for sure hope I get to see it in the flesh not too many miles from me
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Aug 21, 2018, 10:11:18
Hi bud sorry to steal ya thunder but just put yozzer74 gs550 up for BOTM cos I was able to post the pics hope ya vote too bud its a cool looking ride for sure hope I get to see it in the flesh not too many miles from me

No don't be sorry, I'm glad he got nominated!
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Sep 20, 2018, 12:37:30
Does anyone have any recommendations as to which shocks are best for the cb360? What length as well?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Sep 20, 2018, 14:56:52
Modified RFY are about the best I've found. Can't remember length off hand
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: Sonreir on Sep 20, 2018, 15:12:29
Does anyone have any recommendations as to which shocks are best for the cb360? What length as well?

Hagons are nice. 330mm eye to clevis is what you'll need.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: irk miller on Sep 20, 2018, 15:42:06
+1.  I put Hagons on both 360's I built.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Sep 20, 2018, 15:44:46
+1.  I put Hagons on both 360's I built.

Where are you guys buying them from?  On the Hagon website I cannot seem to find any 330mm eye to clevis shocks.

I take that back. I was being stupid on the website lol
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: trek97 on Sep 20, 2018, 20:30:50
I just bought a pair (31011SSC) for the CB400 from DCC as they ship for free. 
I recall they came out to be around $25 cheaper than buying and shipping from UK.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Sep 21, 2018, 10:07:01
I know that going to 330mm raises the rear of the bike making it better handling, but I don't think Hagon makes a shock that is 330mm eye to clevis. Anyone ever call them and have a custom shock, or does going with the 310mm (.80" shorter) make that much of a difference?
The stock 360 was 12" correct?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: irk miller on Sep 21, 2018, 10:20:04
I thought 310mm was stock, which is closer to 12 1/4".
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Sep 21, 2018, 11:14:20
I thought 310mm was stock, which is closer to 12 1/4".

I think you are correct, though, common motor says 12" is stock.  Think going with the 12.20 Hagon would be ok? I live on a gravel road so I am trying to see which would be best for this ever so slight level of off-road.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: Sonreir on Sep 21, 2018, 11:20:17
I thought 310mm was stock, which is closer to 12 1/4".

You're probably right. I was going off recommendations from an online seller and not from specs from the actual bike/manual/whatnot.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: trek97 on Sep 21, 2018, 14:20:18
The hagons on my 360 and cl100 are customs.  Built by Dave Quinn,  but he closed shop. 

DCC advertises custom built Hagon service.

Yes the 12.20 length is perfect.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Oct 03, 2018, 15:01:51
Has anyone ever turned their front brake rotor? Mine has some surface rust, so should I take it to a machinist and have him take the top layer off or would it be ok with stopping for a little bit until the pad naturally wears it down?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Oct 03, 2018, 16:56:00
Just hit it up with some sandpaper or something. Pads will finish cleaning it up. Make sure you degrease it
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: MiniatureNinja on Oct 03, 2018, 22:44:33
Has anyone ever turned their front brake rotor? Mine has some surface rust, so should I take it to a machinist and have him take the top layer off or would it be ok with stopping for a little bit until the pad naturally wears it down?

I had mine milled down to 6mm - shaved 1mm for weight. petty amount of weight I am sure. but at least I can say I did it
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Oct 03, 2018, 22:46:56
If youn find a machine shop that reconditions car flywheels it may be worth having rotor ground flat and thinned to reduce weight. Flywheel grinding is done with a 'Blanchard' grinder.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: pidjones on Oct 04, 2018, 09:44:21
They cut my GL1000 rear at O'Reilly for free. I'm sure they can't do all motorcycle disks, but they can do many. depends on how they mount. Just make sure they get it straight before the first cut. Mine ended up just a tad off, but after about 200 miles it works great. I agree about just sand and go, though. Unless they are bad gouged (mine were).
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Oct 05, 2018, 15:07:28
Got my carbs back from PJ this morning, they look sweet. That dude is a wizard. Anyone run any particular type of inline fuel filter between the petcock and carbs?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Oct 05, 2018, 15:30:41
I run the little cheap tapered ones. Check flow arrow when fitting though as I've seen several where fuel flows into outlet so you can't see dirt  build up. Check tank filter as well although I've never been able to remove one without damage. There is also another filter inside fuel tap sediment bowl that needs checking
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Oct 29, 2018, 11:15:20
Is there any particular 'best' method to putting oil on the k&n pod filters?
Also, any particular time at which it is best to put oil on or even whar type of oil to use?
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Oct 29, 2018, 21:43:33
Oiling filters depends on wether you have spray can or oil bottle. With bottle oil, just run it along top of pleatsand let it soak down to bottom. With spray oil, spray along length. Real filter oil is best to use as it stays sticky but there sare now types for foam and cotton filters. I've used PJ-1, Bel-Ray and K&N filter oils. I think the Bell-Ray was best (maybe?) I've also used 'Gunk' or PJ1 chain lube on top pleats. It doesn't soak as well and is a bit thick but does pick up a lot of crap. It seems thinner than majority of chain lubes, in fact I don't ever use PJ-1 on drive chains (long story, had arguments with sales people at various trade shows)
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Nov 01, 2018, 00:13:04
Tomorrow Iím taking my bike up to my local hydraulic line shop where they are going to make my front brake likne for me (they owe me a favor since I helped them out with some autocad work). I figured I could measure from master cylinder to brake caliper for the length needed.
Is there a rule on how much slack a line should have in it or a particular length it should be to compensate for the wheel turning?
What is the standard length for a cb360 brake line? 2 piece and single piece
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: advCo on Nov 01, 2018, 09:29:34
I think I used a 27 inch hose direct from M/C to caliper on my 360.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: irk miller on Nov 01, 2018, 09:43:51
Jack it up so the forks go to full extension and let the wheel fall left, then measure.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: cb360j on Nov 13, 2018, 18:20:16
I'm getting antsy waiting for my Sparck Moto Harness so im looking for any excuse to work on something while I wait. Is there any particular tools anyone recommends for electrical work? Or mainly, what types of crimps are common so I can buy the crimping tool.
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: Sonreir on Nov 13, 2018, 20:29:58
Open barrel is the most common for many bikes and ubiquitous for vintage Japanese.

Our sister company has what you need: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/1
Title: Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help
Post by: crazypj on Nov 13, 2018, 21:03:00
I bought ratchet crimpers several years ago. As they do both crimps at once (wire and insulation) they save some time and effort compared to the single crimp I've been using last 35~40 yrs