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Author Topic: '78 GL-1000 ABS Test-Bed Gone Wrong  (Read 1877 times)

Offline pidjones

  • Posts: 882
Re: '78 GL-1000 ABS Test-Bed Gone Wrong
« Reply #20 on: Nov 12, 2018, 10:16:42 »
The stock carbs are CV and difficult to get right even with just an air filter change, so you are headed the right direction there. I suggest an electric fuel pump as the mechanical is limited. Always keep in mind that the GL1000 has a PM alternator, and controls voltage by dumping excess current through the regulator (not by controlling the field) to ground, so cutting load too much is not a gain - actually stresses the regulator more. The fan normally only comes on when stopped for a long time, riding at parade speed, or when slowing/stopping after a high speed run - the worst times for the electrical system. I commuted and toured on a '77 for a year and the fan only came on one time while riding after 15 miles of 60 mph followed by stop-and-go, and one time in the driveway after idling for ~15 minutes. But, I had a standard lead-acid battery and it had no problem. The temperature switch for the fan is the two-pole one near the front of the water manifold. A toggle around it is added by many as a safety measure.

'75 engines had the highest performance primarily due to cms and carbs. You might look into '75 cams.
« Last Edit: Nov 12, 2018, 10:18:43 by pidjones »
"Love 'em all.... Let God sort 'em out!"

Offline 4AM Engineering

  • Posts: 6
Re: '78 GL-1000 ABS Test-Bed Gone Wrong
« Reply #21 on: Dec 03, 2018, 15:05:56 »
Interesting points on charging and carbs, thank you!

Finals season, so I don't have huge updates right now. But! I've had some fun lately.

My first seat foam mold concept was to create a foam positive buck, bondo it, lay fiberglass for a negative, and then pour into that. After tinkering with it, I've decided to abandon this concept. Instead, I'll 3D print a negative mold and coat it with Smooth-On XTC-3D. The mold will be filled with Flex Foam-It 7FR from the same company. Just bought a Creality Ender 3 printer so I can make it at home.



I also 3D printed some intake runners to verify dimensions before I send the files off to be waterjetted out of T304 stainless. I'm sticking to 1.5" tube as it will be easier to cope and work with - nothing fancy like Randakk's taper-bore stuff. I am considering 3D printing several intake manifolds to play with runner lengths later on - I've seen it before through Formula SAE.

Definitely goofed up my dimensions a little! It gets the point across at least.









Also made a little progress on the gas tank. I just bought an english wheel and will patch the top with it after finals.




Some glamor shots...







« Last Edit: Dec 03, 2018, 15:11:25 by 4AM Engineering »

Offline Sonreir

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  • Posts: 11235
  • Oregon
Re: '78 GL-1000 ABS Test-Bed Gone Wrong
« Reply #22 on: Dec 03, 2018, 15:27:45 »
Looking good.

As far as cutting the electrical load, that's fine, but be sure to upgrade your regulator/rectifier.

We have modern MOSFET units available, pre-wired to fit your bike and free shipping in the USA.

http://www.sparckmoto.com/Products/Detail/103
Sparck Moto - http://www.sparckmoto.com

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Offline Psycrow

  • Posts: 113
Re: '78 GL-1000 ABS Test-Bed Gone Wrong
« Reply #23 on: Dec 16, 2018, 19:14:29 »
Is randakk a member here? He's got alot of cool gold wing toys..
Rendakk hangs over at NakedGoldwings.... Along with a bunchnof other great guys check it out if you into old wings without farrings and bags.

Psy

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