1977 KZ400 Build "Logan's Run"

[noahdog]

Ok here's my first real attempt at a cafe racer.  After I picked up the KZ400 and saw the straight lines of the frame I knew it was begging to be cafe'd out. The original tank was beat to hell. It only has 2K miles but it'd had a very rough life in the garage it seems. So I picked up a better tank and left side cover off Ebay and some clubman bars from a local shop and the project begins.






Next I started on a seat and some rear sets. The seat is still in the beginning stages, being made from the rear of the old beat up tank. I'm still up in the air at this point especially since one of our fine members has a seat that would fit just about perfectly on my frame.  http://www.roccitycafe.com/item.php?path=store/cbss,





While I decide on a seat I went to work on mocking up some rearsets.  I picked up a pair of YAMAHA YZF-R1 rearsets from 2 different auctions for less than $50 and mounted the pegs and levers to the stock passenger peg mounts.  I still need to remove the stock controls and re-bend the brake linkage since I made the second bend too close to the first but I have a functional mock up on both sides.






I'm also thinking about a small fairing for the front. I'm torn between a more traditional cafe 1/4 fairing like this... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Viper-Sport-Cafe-Fairing-for-Motorcycles_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem518d9445f7QQitemZ350267655671QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 or a more modern dual headlight fairing like this... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130339716949&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I look forward to comments and tips.

[Hannibal Smith]

Starting to shape up!

My secret favorite old school bikes are the KZ series, as they are true "Mad Max" machines. My next Japanese bike will probably be a KZ 1000.

[boomshakalaka]

definitely go with the classic bullet fairing unless the rest of your bike is going to be pretty far outside the box.  I think the modern dual headlight fairing will look out of place on an otherwise period appropriate cafe bike.

[crazypj]

I think your going to find your rearsets are a bit 'land speed record' position (bit low and too far back)
They will probably point your toes straight down and severly reduce cornering clearance.
 When you move your foot it will place more weight on wrists and upset handling in corners
Get seat finished, fit bars your going to use and find out the 'correct' position then weld (or have someone) weld in new mounts.

PJ

[hillsy]

It only has 2K miles but it'd had a very rough life in the garage it seems.

That might be 102K miles.

I agree that the rearsets are probably too far back, you could probably just weld a bit of plate in the triangle area (just ahead of the passenger peg mounts) and mount them there. Or cut those triangles off and weld some tabs to the main frame.

[noahdog]

That might be 102K miles.

I agree that the rearsets are probably too far back, you could probably just weld a bit of plate in the triangle area (just ahead of the passenger peg mounts) and mount them there. Or cut those triangles off and weld some tabs to the main frame.

Judging by the compression and how well it runs I'm betting that it's actually is just over 2K miles.

I'm giving some serious thought to just cutting the triangle frame for the passenger pegs off all together and welding some mounting tabs for the original brackets for the rearsets I bought.

Here's pics of the rearsets complete with the original brackets.




If I move them forward and up as is being suggested should I try to just run a linkage from the new brake pedal forward to the stock brake lever assembly? With the original pedal cut off of course. Or do I continue with the plan of making a new linkage back to the drum?

[boingk]

Good score if it really is 2k on the odometer, thats a champion find. Give it some love and you'll really appreciate the ride this one'll give you.

On the rearsets, I'd make a new linkage straighjt to the rear drum. The less linkages the better for anything like that. Are you planning on removing the standard pegs and controls?

 - boingk

[crazypj]

If you move them forward you won't need to have them sticking out so far (silencer is smaller diameter closer to front)
 I would 'beat' silencer/pipe for clearance on brake pedal.
 I don't think I've ever seen anytrhing that resmbles a good looking brake rod set up unless it was direct from factory,( and some of them pretty dismal) Running to cut down brake pedal will probably be easiest/safest thing and doesnt look 'too' bad
 Any rod with bends in looks awful in my opinion.
 I have a plan for my 360's which should look less shite and also not operate brake with suspension movement.

PJ

[noahdog]

Good score if it really is 2k on the odometer, thats a champion find. Give it some love and you'll really appreciate the ride this one'll give you.

On the rearsets, I'd make a new linkage straighjt to the rear drum. The less linkages the better for anything like that. Are you planning on removing the standard pegs and controls?

 - boingk

Yeah the stock pegs and controls are coming off.  I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

[noahdog]

If you move them forward you won't need to have them sticking out so far (silencer is smaller diameter closer to front)
 I would 'beat' silencer/pipe for clearance on brake pedal.
 I don't think I've ever seen anytrhing that resmbles a good looking brake rod set up unless it was direct from factory,( and some of them pretty dismal) Running to cut down brake pedal will probably be easiest/safest thing and doesnt look 'too' bad
 Any rod with bends in looks awful in my opinion.
 I have a plan for my 360's which should look less shite and also not operate brake with suspension movement.

PJ

Unfortunately after looking at the bike last night I realized that the stock brake assembly is attached to the frame for the passenger pegs that I plan on cutting off in order to mount the rearsets. Looks like I'll be running a rod back to the drum instead

[Big-D]

Bike is coming along well, should be fun when its done.

[noahdog]

Well I sold the set of rearsets I was trying unsuccessfully to use to a fellow member here and ordered up a set of universal ones from Thailand so when they show up in probably 3 weeks    I'll get them mounted.  I'm hoping to get the cut up tank welded onto the seat base I made this weekend so I can start bondoing the dents and getting it ready for paint.

[noahdog]

The rearsets finally arrived from Thailand so I started cutting and grinding to to make room for them and of course drop a few pounds.





I think I can get the rod going back to the rear drum to clear the swing arm  if I flip the lever on the drum to point up instead of down. Won't know for sure till I get the rearsets mounted and bend the rod but trying to run the rod under the swing arm doesn't look possible

I've also got a sweet  1/4 fairing on it's way thanks to another fine member here on the forum.  It's scheduled to get here wednesday which just happens to be our weekly bike night. Hopefully I can get that mounted and get pics then I'll go back to work on the rearsets. Just need to weld on some mounting tabs and get the linkages sorted out.

[noahdog]

Hmm, it seems the clubman bars aren't going to work with the new fairing. It hits the master cylinder on the brake handle long before it's lined up with the bucket so it looks like I'll be picking up a pair of drag bars. Anyone interested in a set of very slightly used clubmans?

[troybilt]

Looking Good Noah. I agree with Pj on that you might want to get the seat (and tank) taken care of before positioning the rearsets. They will dictate where the rear sets need to go for sure.
And I'd like to say that thing is amazing clean too. My guess would be 2k might be right.