Lazarus - 1975 Cl360 -(anybody got a 1.0 oversized piston?)

[johnny gaijin]

QUESTION: why aren't my turn signals flashing?

[bluemitch]

Not sure if I can offer any advice, spent the weekend trying to figure the same thing out on my bike.
 
Good luck with it
 
One thing for sure that I have learnt from playing with these old bikes- patience and a whole lot of swearing when the patience runs out

[johnny gaijin]

ANSWER:  because i don't have turn signals.

i'm actually replacing my stock levers and ditching the ignition button, headlight on/off, and turn signal switch.

One thing for sure that I have learnt from playing with these old bikes- patience and a whole lot of swearing when the patience runs out

truth!

[johnny gaijin]

got my levers installed and wiring sorted out:



looks a lot cleaner now.

wiring just got a lot simpler!



wired the low light to the ignition as i don't really use the high beam.  went from all those wires going to the controls to just three.  one for the horn and two for the kill switch.

went for a ride on the highway with a buddy.  got up to 85 and still had some left.  wide open throttle was a bit sputtery so i might need to change my main jet. 

[frogman]

See works great right? Well, I hope it does any way.

[johnny gaijin]

See works great right? Well, I hope it does any way.

thanks entirely to you!

[frogman]

Naaa, it's your bike I just shoved you in the right direction.

[johnny gaijin]

having some more battery troubles.

for a couple days the bike has been running a little crummy.  occasionally dieing at stop lights and such.  last night the bike died at a light and wouldn't start up until i started futzing around and unplugged the headlight.  so i rode home in the dark sans headlight (eep) and checked the battery w/ my multi-meter.  it read 11.5 volts so i figured that couldn't be the problem.  rode it to work today and it started right up but halfway to work died at a stoplight and then dropped a cylinder for half the ride.
after work the bike started right up but as it was warming up it died and wouldn't start again.  messed around with it for a while and noticed my headlight was dimming and eventually it and my tail light gave up the ghost altogether. 
took the battery home and charged it to 13.5 volts, rode back to lazarus on my mb5, put the battery in and it started right up and ran like a champ all the way home.

i'm running an h4 35/35W halogen scooter headlight and LED tail light that are wired directly to the ignition (i.e. always on).  new coils.  a 12volt 5 amp hour gel battery.  kickstart only.

what's wrong?  i've been running the battery for about a month, riding maybe 3 or 4 times a week, mostly short rides in town.

am i shifting too conservatively?  i generally ride in 3rd gear around town at about 30mph, no tach so i play it safe rpm wise.  am i just not getting the motor spinning fast enough to charge the battery?

should 11.5 volts be too low to run the bike?

any help would be awesome, 

thanks guys!

also i now have to walk or bus to work to get my scooter back home.  boooo!

[frogman]

360s need at least 3000 RPM to really charge the battery. If you have the headlight on it's at least that if not 3500-4000.  You have a lower draw headlight than what the bike came with so I would count that as less draw but still enough, these systems suck as is.

DO this, get it up on the stand, fire it up and take a volt meter to the battery.  AT an idle with the headlight unplugged it should read around 11.5 -12.5 volts.  Then run it up and see if the voltage rises. IF it does then hook the headlight in and do the same thing.  IF it doesn't rise then you have issues with your charging system and since you tore into things I have a bet something is unhooked or broken somewhere. Did you plug the YELLOW and WHITE/YELLOW wires together when you worked over the wiring harness?? Would be under the tank I think.  The headlight control turns on the 3rd winding in the alternator to allow for the added draw of the headlight.

If it charges with the headlight on at higher RPM then you are working, you're just not RIDING it enough lol. Wind up the motor, take it for a bare minimum of 10-15 minute ride with the RPMs at least in the middle of the range. 

BTW where did you get that light??

[troybilt]

Edit: Sorry frogman I think you type faster then me. I was typing this as you posted haha. I'll post this anyhow and hopefully this won't be too confusing...
You can do as frogman recommends. If still having problems you might try this...

Yes 11.5 is too low. Could be something draining the battery (coil going bad or faulty ground/wiring etc.) or battery not charging properly. You need to run through some checks.


Charging:
 start with a fully charged battery.
Unplug the alternator (small nylon 4-wire plug that exits the engine near the sprocket) and start the bike. Read AC voltage between pink and yellow wires. It should be around 30V at idle and increase as you rev the bike. 30 is relative, as long as you get a reading and it goes up with revs. Stator checks

Plug alternator wiring back together and start bike. Read DC Volts across
battery terminals at idle and at revs. Should get 11V+ at idle, and rev to 3500/4000. Should get 13.7 to 14.2
 If below 11 at idle, charge battery, then start and test again.
If it goes over 14.2 you have a bad REGULATOR.

If it only comes up a little at revs (below 12.5) you have a bad RECTIFIER.

IF you get the 11+- and the 13.7 or so at revs, you have a bad BATTERY 


If you've not replaced the rectifier you should probably eventually do so with the radio shack one. There is a guy that sells them that has the plug and you simply plug it in. Its cheap and works better than the factory one. Anyhow, you can the rectifier by checking for continuity. It should only read continuity in one direction. Sorry but I can't remember which wires.

Hope this helps

[johnny gaijin]

problem RECTIFIED.  (get it?)
swapped out the rectifier and it appears to be charging.  thanks rev, troy, and frog!

also:







she's kind of screaming for the fork lowers to be painted now though...

here's my tail light on the bike, haven't taken a picture of that yet...

[pablohoney]

I love the lines, very sleek.  Nice work dude!

[johnny gaijin]

I love the lines, very sleek.  Nice work dude!

thanks a lot!

[johnny gaijin]

so i'm planning on a big winter project with lazarus here...  strip her down and paint the frame and engine and redo the wiring.

what should i do while the engine is out of the frame?  i'm sure it's a golden opportunity i just don't know what kind of trouble i should be looking forward to getting into...

oh, and i think i'm going to switch back to stock shocks, the new ones are just too stiff. 

[Sonreir]

Get the rocker cover off of that bad boy and ensure everything on the top end is still in spec (especially check for wear on the cam journals and the rocker arm.  Side-to-side clearances of the cam should be checked as well).  No need to worry about the bottom end too much unless you know something is wrong is going on down there.