New fella from B-town, Idaho with my XS650

Hello all, my name's Ross! My buddy, Treitz encouraged me to join the forums..

I'm new to forums and pretty new to vintage bikes. My dad and I just rebuilt a 1973 yamaha xs650, which we discovered it's more a like a "72 and they called 'em "TX" not "XS". So that's cool!

My buddy posted the full build pics for me in the The Loathed & Fearsome BOBBER CHOPs, Hard-Tails and those PESKY Bratstyles!!..

More specifically Something or other 1973 XS650

Check it out, let me know what you think. and if you are an XS guy, I might have some questions for you!

Welcome to DTT Ross! Seems like a pretty good group of members out your way.

Thank you! Yeah, my buddy already got some much needed help from one of the dudes.. Seams like a nice forum to be a part of!

Welcome to the family. You did a nice job on the 650, keep it up.

Thank you very much sir!

Eh welcome friend! Glad you finally hopped aboard the forum train. The knowledge and amount of cool builds on this site never disappoint.

I have a few decades of TX - XS experience . I'm new here but this isn't my first rodeo by a long shot .
My email and IM's are exposed for a reason . I teach what I learn . All I ask in return is that you do the same

~kop

What's up Tyler!

Very nice.. Well I'm having trouble getting my right cylinder tuned up! It pops and blaps just off idle at low throttle. Have you ever had issues with one cylinder being like that? I'm about to check the timing again this week to see if that might be the problem.

Well the manual doesn't do a very good job of explaining this so ...

Set one set of points to the proper gap and place a dwell meter on that set of points and take down the reading .
(doesn't really matter what the number is or how many cylinders because you are going to make the other set the same . Just pick a setting that gives you a reading around mid scale)
Now get the bike running and set the other set of points to the same reading .
Ok now the almost kinda tricky part . Connect a timing light to the bike and moving the entire breaker plate assembly place the timing mark (usually for the left ) within the 1/8" or so that is the full advance mark .
You will notice that one set of points is "usually" solidly connected to the breaker plate assembly (again usually left but not always ) and the other set (right ) will move not only in advance and retard but in gap also .
Switch the timing light to the right and again place the mark in the 1/8" that is full advance .
go back and check dwell for both right and left . if the dwell and the timing is reasonably the same for each set within a couple of degrees you are done .

Special cases . On older bikes the advance mechanism may have been abused and even though the timing is correct at full advance the static or full retarded timing may be way late . limiting the advance by adding a bit of metal to the advance stoppers is preferred to attempting to bend them as they often break . Worn or loose advance springs will cause indistinct timing at just off idle to around 2,200 hundred rpm .
Adjust the valves . I can't repeat this often enough . Adjust the valves or all the work that goes into adjusting the timing has little or no effect on performance . Find either a reputable mechanic with a proven record with older bikes or attempt or your self . Just get it right .
. Now ever if the valve adjust is correct and the timing is spot on the carb sync should be a breeze . Have a talk with the folks around WiredGeorge before you mangle anything in and or around your carbs . if your manifolds are rotten and cracked you will have to replace them . Almost forgot . Get a trickle charger for the thing . The early charging systems arn't near as efficient as the newer models . They work and they are durable they just don't have great output .

~kop