I made it myself using the original stock swing arm. added 4" to the front bushing end that attaches to bike frame.
Here is more details about the swing arm work.
Since posting mine. I have had alot of people PM me. About their Swing arm stretch projects and experiences. It would be GREAT to see your pics. Before, During and After shots. If it was DIY like mine, or you TRUSTED and PAID somebody else. I am real interested to see how you guys approached it. Heres what I did to add 4 inches.
Before welding,got the tubing from speedymetals.com about $30 incl shipping. they have great selection I was able to get the same size and thickness tube as honda used. best for wire welding.
The numbers are now meaningless, thats what I had after notching myself, not even close to right. Machine shop touched em up and made them perfect. All 3 corrected to be right. If its not perfect...try again. check and triple check measurements as your welding. check for warping. your ass will be riding on these welds. My friend did the welding for me, I trust his welds. I WOULD DIE ON MY WELDS. He is educated has a certification...his welds have reason and purpose.
After welding w new bushings ready for install. Machine shop bored tube correctly for bushings.
Out with the old in with the new...Halfway through swap.
End result. Rides great, new bushings helped that. New chain, longer shocks from DCC lowered it a bit but not much, modified a brake lever connector rod using longer one off 69 CL350 sprint. Had it up to but never over 80 mph on good straight road. Barely noticeable in cornering. I dont take hard turns at high speed anyway. Im a 44 year old dad. pretty conservative rider. I am delighted it actually worked and I didnt have to scrap it.
My only advice...Dont try this, dont over estimate your own welding ability, dont try to cut corners, your friends may brag about their abilities,dont trust me,dont trust anyone...if you are crazy enough try something like this, and ANYTHING about the entire project is questionable or not ABSOLUTELY PERFECT. Do the smart thing...Just scrap it. Put the bike back together as it was. It wouldnt be worth GETTING HURT.
cracks should scare you. I did not cut the arms. I think it could, and would be disastrous. I believe compromising the integrity of the original arm is a bad idea. I gained my length on the bushing end. I measured the original swing materials using my digital caliper, and ordered the new steel to the exact thickness specs. (Welding 2 pieces of different thickness material together is not ideal.) A good and trusted friend at the machine shop cut and fit the steel, perfectly. My best friend, who is an educated welder w a certification did all the welding on my patio while I watched, double checked and measured. I was not about to blindly trust "god knows who"...If he or I had any questions about the entire project it wouldve been scrapped immediately.
The swing arm floats, so it really does not support any weight per se. The weight of bike and rider is transferred from the frame through the resistance of the shock springs to the axel, bearings, hub, up through spokes, down around rim, through the tire and to the ground. HOWEVER, Even though the arms are "connected" to one another through the axel. The arms will twist and flex a bit. Due to the fact that each shock is somewhat independent of each other. This twisting and flexing minor as it may be. eventually will cause breakage at the weakest link...anyone care to take a guess where? At the EXACT point these guys are cutting and welding. Espeacially if the welded parts are of different thickness. The heat needed for good penetration on the thicker steel will harden the thinner. Causing it to become brittle. OR, if its welded at a lower temp setting for the thinner material, it will not penetrate the thicker deep enough. The bead will literally just be sitting on top of the thicker metal.
Also there are more pressures placed on the arm. Pushing and pulling. The arms are constantly being compressed by the force of the rear tire pushing the bike forward. Not to big of an issue with these small lightweight bikes w little horse power. However, The pulling apart force generated every bump and pot hole we hit. could be tremendous. Pulling that arm free of the rest of the bike and you. If one cuts and welds those arms I wonder where its gonna pull apart, after hitting that pot hole at 80 mph while passing that big truck.
I can write alot more...If you like? Its your ass on that thing. I recommend you dont do it.
Rear Fender mount....
A couple guys have contacted me about the rear fender on swing arm.
I have plans to improve it this winter. Right now its kinda scabby. I was ready to ride so I just threw it on there in about 30 minutes. its held up real good though doesnt rub and haven't touched it since install.
This is the original cb360t front fender. I had ground the rivets off to remove the brace rod.
So, I had to dig brace out of the garage. I couldnt believe I kept it. I cant believe I found it.
My plan is to hide the brace rod behind the shocks for a cleaner appearance. But to get it on the road this is what I did.
The brace rods are about an inch short of what I needed for tire clearance. So I cut and drilled little tabs to add the height I needed (first scabby part, I intend to re-do nicer this winter.
Next I cut front mount from piece of sheet metal. and drilled and tapped swing arm sheet metal. 1/4-28 bolts. I used fine thread cause the swing arm steel is pretty thin. This bracket could also be nicer looking.
Moved tail light from bracket behind seat to fender cause it left a big gaping hole. So taillight fills 2 1/4" gap tween seat and fender.
also all the electronics (rect, regulator, solenoid are hid under seat.)
so thats it. PM me if you have any more questions