collapse

www.dimecitycycles.com

www.cognitomoto.com

https://www.townmoto.com/collections/vanson-leathers

www.speedmotoco.com

www.CITYLIMITMOTO.com

www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com

www.lostapostlejewelry.com

www.sparckmoto.com

www.pistonsociety.com


Author Topic: The 'build thread' of a Kawasaki Z250 C, a total beginner's point of view...  (Read 56901 times)

Offline teazer

  • DTT SUPPORTER
  • *
  • DTT BOTM WINNER
  • *
  • Posts: 9122
Carb cleaner in a can is great for spray cleaning and a small amount on rubber parts is not a problem.  If one swells up, leave it in the garage for a few days and it will return to size.

Simple Green is a biodegradable, water based cleaner.  I don't remember what else is available in OZ. That crack in the manifold comment could be an issue.  I prefer to use nice new soft rubber intake/manifold and your dealer should be able to get on in for you.  They always seem to be expensive to me, but that's the price you have to pay.

Check an on line parts list to see if it needs a gasket.  Your dealer can check that for you too.

Connectors are available from Tandy/Radio Shack or on line.  I got some at JAyCar but I don't remember if they had a 6 prong connector. Eastern Beaver in Japan has the best selection of waterproof and stock connectors - google them.

Back to the carb.  Try to remove the brass jets to clean them and blast through any/all drillings with carb cleaner and then reassemble it.  You don't need to soak the carb unless the small passages are clogged.

Get the bike clean and working and ride it.  Then start seraching for ideas on how to stay within the law and achieve a cleaner look.  Check out modern sports bikes.  They use a vestigial rear fender to comply with ADRs and many riders take them off after they get the roadworthy and keep it for when they sell the bike.


Offline sham

  • Posts: 309
Thanks for the reply - glad to hear the o ring still has a chance. I'll test it out. The crack is more on the base of the rubber which is wrapped around the 'carb holder' - the metal underneath is showing, but yeh, I guess I can get a new one - its only around $15 online which seems ok...

Yeh I finally realised what the connector does, so I think I will just get a new one if I can't find one of the same dimensions. Jaycar did have them, but I thought I needed exactly the same one, so didn't go for it. Here is another question relating to this but - I had a look at the wiring going into the connector, and based on the wiring diagram, there are 5 wires coming connected to it:

red = page level relay
green = pulse encoder
black = ignition coil
black/yellow = circuit brake light beam indicator lights flashing control idle control
red/yellow = engine stop switch button starter switch headlights and ignition coil

The strange thing is there are two red/yellow wires jammed into the same hole, so essentially, I have six connections. I assume that because the red/yellow has two functions, that is why there are two wires, but why are they jammed into the one hole, and can I remove this, or does it need to share that hole as I only have five external connections?

I assume that's why, but any confirmation would be great.

So here are the pictures of a nearly finished CDI - just need to solder on the wiring and hook it up. Seeing as the 'potting box' isn't sealed, and the electronic bits actually protrude from it, is it ok to keep this as is? I think it would be better if I sealed it with another piece of plastic or something...




You can see how I couldn't cut the leads properly. Does it matter that there is still so much left?

Anyways, plan for now is to get the battery out and charge it, find these connectors so I can finish the CDI and hook it up...and hopefully she'll purr :)

Offline sham

  • Posts: 309
Oh by the way - would someone have an english version of that wiring manual? I'm not quiet sure which ones of the above wires will match the to descriptions of the CDI. As it stands I believe this is how it should go

Generator coil = pulse encoder
Kill switch =  engine stop switch button starter switch headlights and ignition coil
Chassis = circuit brake light beam indicator lights flashing control idle control
Trigger coil = page level relay
Ignition coil = ignition coil

Would that be correct?

Offline sham

  • Posts: 309
Took forever to get wires for the CDI out of the original connector. I gave up trying to preserve it and ripped it to shreds. Is there a better way of doing this? I found the new connector I bought doesn't have the same issues with the pins, so I presume its a rust thing, but I didn't want to spray WD40 on the wires, it doesn't sound like something I should be doing.

I forgot to buy a crimper too, so I might just try manually connecting these wires up and seeing if the home made CDI works. Just waiting for the battery to charge.




Offline sham

  • Posts: 309
Hmmm so quick update. Finally got the new battery and the manual came, but a quick test tonight didn't prove anything in terms of how the kit CDI is. I stupidly thought the whole bike was suppose to be one closed circuit and any signs of working electronics would mean it works, but found out that not the case...

So without having had any success with the CDI I at least now know that my rear right indicator doesn't work, and I'm not getting any sparks when I hit the starter on the spark plug. I'm still not sure that I have the correct corresponding wires matching, so I might try testing all of them. Perhaps it doesn't work if I only have the ignition wires connection?

Bah.

Offline Bozz

  • Posts: 700
    • not nearly cool enough website
you wont be abel to test for spark until the CDI is in and functioning.

The CDI is what tells the spark plug when to spark.

Take some time to read through your manual, or other manuals for that matter.

You will soon understand how the systems work much better than you currently do.

Manuals are a great way to get to know mechanics in general, as they will spell out how part relate, how they attach, and how to troubleshoot systems.

There is a lot of info on DTT and other sites that simply explain how carburetors work, how charging systems work, how fuel systems work, and even how 4 stroke and 2 stroke motors work.

While this knowledge isn't strictly necessary to own or ride a motorcycle, it will help you a great deal on your journey to repair and then modify your nice little bike into something that speaks to you.

Take your time, be methodical, be patient, and do a lot of research.  You can learn this.

Rocket Science it is not.

But you are a self professed "total beginner" (kudos to you for be honest with yourself, there's no shame at all in admitting/celebrating it)  So there is a learning curve involved.

Some of this learning comes from this site and others on the web, some from your bike directly, some from other members/bikers/friends you can make contact with directly.

Be as much of a sponge as you can.

Many of us started at the same point of the learning curve as you are at right now.

For most of us here we are still climbing that curve, although it is not as steep as it used to be and the view is much nicer up here.

And for almost all of us our bikes are a source of a lot of joy/pride/exasperation that we cannot live without.

Enjoy your journey, embrace your mistakes, for you are learning and therefor living!
Cheers!
-Bozz

(All opinions worth less than you paid for them!)

05 FZ6 - 99 ZRX1100 - 93 GSXR750 - 82 GL500 - 78 GL1000 - 77 KZ900 - 77 CX500 - 60 R60

Offline padi

  • Posts: 1
Sham, got the same bike in pieces at the moment. In melbourne, chasing the vacuum valve which l have noticed is the most expensive(over-priced)part for the carburretor. Do you have any links other than CMSNL? Would greatly appreciate that.
 
Had this z250 for 5 years not running for that long either. Just recently got into it and have it turning over with electric starter. After new battery and plug clean, carb clean, vacuum has perferations, so no actual fuel intake through 1 intake valve.
Slowly it will happen. Padi

Offline sham

  • Posts: 309
So, decided to take some time off after the last ignition unit fail, which was fun in a way. At least I now understand a tiny bit more about electronics than I first started (the whole grounded and positive relationship was a start). Some good came from that little exercise - I found that the PO had a 15A fuse in place of a 20A fuse, and after replacing that, the left rear indicator worked fine =]

Was going to pursue the GM HEI modules as an alternate igniter, but was told that this would only work for mechanical advances, which I discovered (finally) my bike is not. So going back to the very start of this whole ignition journey, that Jaycar kit wouldn't have worked anyway if I understand the warning as being that it will not work for an electronic advance. So there. Fat waste of time that was lol.

So deciding to buy the OEM ignition module, which sells for around $400. But found a cheap, and more importantly, new module - half the price. The issue now is the seller will only ship within Germany...so if anyone lives there, or knows someone there who would be willing to ship it back to me, PLEASE let me know (preferably within the next 4 days).

My earlier haste also means that I will need a new 6 prong connector after I destroyed the original. Also on the list is a new air box filter, as mine is missing the "sponge element" which the manual insists on being a very important part of the whole set up...also need to get a 8AG 20A fuse, as the one I'm currently using (3AG) doesn't fit in the fuse box and I'm thinking of getting a new set of hand controls - the labels on mine are all faded, and I'm missing the horn button. Any suggestions? I read in a previous thread that OEM was the way to go due to the complexity of the wiring that could be integrated in these things.

So I guess I have a shopping list =]


Padi - did you manage to find a cheap diaphragm for your carb? And did you get the link I sent you for the manual?
« Last Edit: Sep 10, 2011, 04:17:36 by sham »

Offline leedutcher

  • Posts: 41
  • cheap, fast, and reliable PICK 2
yea when trying to get the the wires out of the connectors there is useally a PRONG of some sort holding into the connector. just use a micro flat head screw driver adn push down on the back of the wire.
1979 Yamaha XS1100 special- "the judge" mods
.pod filters
.strait headers (soon to be changed)
.progressive fork springs
.jetted- 147.5 mains 45 pilots jets

Offline sham

  • Posts: 309
Yeh I was just too excitable and rushed it. Now I'll have to wait...
But the good news is the German seller is willing to ship to Australia for no additional cost!? I think that's what he said...so hoping it will be all good and can get this thing finally started!