CJ360T midrange power

[Jturs]

so i am in the middle of my 76 CJ360T build and i finally got the bike running after having a rusty tank  and torn diaphragms. the bike starts first kick, revs good, sounds great  no missing but when riding it feel like it lack mid range power. now this is my first time riding a old cafe bike so Im not sure if its normal its just seems like it should have a little more. my example of low mid range power is when cruising say through my neighborhood around 4-5k RPM and i nail the throttle dosnt seem to do very much. now also i have the muffler off cause if was rusted and nasty and i also have pod filters on it. so maybe was thinking it might be tuning problem due to less back pressure and higher air volume going through the carbs. also i have new plugs in the bike the carbs have been completely disassembled and cleaned. maybe points? im new to all this any and all info helps thanks guys!

[66replica]

It's almost certainly the open pipes with pods. You're probably running rich in the midrange.

[skatetheame]

^ +1

[teazer]

Or lean if the carbs were not re-jetted. And even then it will still be pretty gutless at 5k.

If I bang the throttle on my RZ350 wide open at less than about 6K, it makes a low moan and slows down. Almost like the switch was thrown.  But drop a gear or three or open the throttle more gently and it's a different animal.

[crazypj]

CB360 goes rich mid-range even with stock jetting when you fit pods( then get real lean as slide lifts around 4,500rpm and usually cuts out around 7,000rpm)
 Running just front pipes leans it out but makes lean spot much worse.
 If you jet for the pipes, it probably wont run mid range as fuel air ratio gets down to around 8~9:1 instead of max power ratio 12~13:1
 It's fixable (by me)

[MILLENNIUM FALCON]

+1 on the need for jetting , but I would also make sure your timing advance is working correctly. Mine was rusted solid and ran like crap above 3500 rpm.

[Jturs]

ya i kinda figured it was going to be the jetting. what jet should replace the pilot right? and it is jetted factory so what size jet should i be running i plan on keeping the pods on but will probably end up building new exhaust which will be similar to half pipes. also how can i check my timing advance. everything was rusted so i suppose this could be rusted too.

thanks for the replies guys

[Jturs]

so if i re-jet what jets should i be replacing with and how much bigger. also is there anyway possible to tune it with factory jets if i put my muffler back on for now. thanks in advance.

[crazypj]

It doesn't need bigger pilot jets for pods.
 The stock air filters are designed to flow to 10,000rpm, how much restriction do you think carbs see at idle?
 There isn't an easy way to fix mid range, particularly if you want to switch things around on a regular basis.
If you just want them set up for pods/open exhaust send me carbs and list mods you've done/doing and I can set them up
Exhaust needs to end around rear footrest, too short doesn't work right

[Jturs]

I was just hoping to re jet it myself. I didn't know these carbs were do.intricate.

[teazer]

They are a PIA and to get them right, the key is air jets and the only person I know who can do them is PJ. 

[DP9]

PJ fixed my similar problem with a new set of air jets.  I have big pods and my exhaust ends just after the factory foot pegs.  Had to up my main jets (115's worked), then use PJ's air jets to lean out the mid range (unsure of his secret spec on those), and raise my float level 1.5mm and everything is pretty happy. 

you could go through all the headaches of trial and error yourself like I did (because I'm stubborn).  This was my first foray into tuning carbs and it took the better part of this year to get it dialed in to where it is.  Its still not entirely perfect, a little rich on the low end, coughs lightly at cruise sometimes depending on ambient temp, engine temp and what front sprocket im running (loves the 15 tooth, isnt a fan of the 16 tooth). 


if youre a die-hard DIY guy, have fun, I'm sure we'll hear a lot more from you.  if you just want to ride, send them to PJ.


Thanks again for all the help, PJ.

[MB]

I'm planning on begging PJ for help once I get my 2nd ride running. having the same problem with my cb350k. Screams at top range but mid is missing a little something that's hard to explain.....

[trek97]

my 76 cb360t ran SUPER w pods and 2x2 24"trumpets.  through entire range.  all summer.  then carbs got gooey enough it wouldnt start at all.  They turned brown and sticky...leaky gaskets


  so I bought kits, pulled em, soaked em,  they already had #110 secondary mains,  so idint change those.  I did replace slows, like for like, #35s, atleast I thought...the both marked 35 the holes in the stems of originals are way bigger than the new ones...I dont know why, but it didnt like the new ones.

 and the new needles, WOW in the bad way, Ran like crap.  So, yesterday opened em up, put all the old stuff back in,  runs better but doesnt run as good as before I started all this.  pods off-best, pods on-runs great under 5000 -poor above half throttle,  Plugs-PJ-& I think rich.  ordered smaller secondary mains- 108,105,102.  If I cant get this soon Im sending them to CrazyPJ over winter.  later this morning Im gonna run it @ 6000 rpms till the left cylinder fails completely...plug quits...no fire at all.  then shut it off, stop, pull plug to see what it says at that point.  Either way to rich or fuel starvation.

If PJ has something to say...listen!!!
And if you cant afford new mufflers at this time, just scrub em down w SOS pad and put em back on to see if it helps.

[crazypj]

I've done a couple of  K&L carb kits
 The pilots are larger hole, so flow more fuel, and smaller bleeds so don't atomise as well
I think they are closer to 45 than 35, haven't tried measuring them.
 I think top end rich is restriction from filters inside original air box fittings