Ignition System Cutting Out Between Idle and 3000RPM.Trike Teaser Pic Added.

[ben2go]

A lot of other people run identical set as mine as far as exhaust,air filter,mix screw settings,and jetting.There's no sign of a lean condition.The plug chop revealed a nice tanish color below 3000 rpm,above 3000 rpm there a dark tanish color.The carbs are clean.Compressed air moves through them freely.Good thing I wear safety glasses.LOL The last rejet and cleaning was almost 3000 miles ago.I've only had the miss the last 200 or so.The weather is supposed to be clear and cool tomorrow.If the wind isn't to rough,I may take a crack at solving the mystery.

[teazer]

At low revs those plugs should look a lot darker than that because the plug tips are not hot enough to burn clean.   

CDI/Igniters rarely miss like that but it's possible that  yours is bad.  Did you already swap that out?                     

Have you tried new plug caps and cutting  1/4" off the end of the HT lead?

Does it always stutter and stumble the same at low revs or is it sometimes OK and sometimes not? ie is it consistent or sporadic?

You mention that adding and advancer shifted the revs at which it occurs/stops. That's odd, but may point to poor combustion at those revs and lighting the fire earlier seems to improve things.  It would be very useful if you could run it with a timing (strobe) light to see that it's advancing properly.

[ben2go]

At low revs those plugs should look a lot darker than that because the plug tips are not hot enough to burn clean.   

CDI/Igniters rarely miss like that but it's possible that  yours is bad.  Did you already swap that out?     
NO I HAVEN'T DONE THAT YET.IT'S ON MY LIST TO DO THE NEXT CHANCE I GET.               

Have you tried new plug caps and cutting  1/4" off the end of the HT lead?
MY ORIGINAL COILS HAD THE WIRES AND CAPS REPLACED.NO CHANGE SO I TRIED A DIFFERENT SET.STILL NO CHANGE.

Does it always stutter and stumble the same at low revs or is it sometimes OK and sometimes not? ie is it consistent or sporadic?
IT IS RANDOM AND SPORADIC.IT SEEMS TO HAPPEN MORE OFTEN WHEN THE BIKE IS HOT AND UNDER A LOAD,SUCH AS PULLING A HILL AT LOW REVS OR PULLING UP A HILL FROM A STOP.

You mention that adding and advancer shifted the revs at which it occurs/stops. That's odd, but may point to poor combustion at those revs and lighting the fire earlier seems to improve things.  It would be very useful if you could run it with a timing (strobe) light to see that it's advancing properly.
I'LL SEE IF MY LOCAL AUTO PARTS SHACK HAS ONE FOR RENT/BORROW.I'LL GET A VID

I could kick my ass for selling my big tool box and all my tools when the shop closed where I was working.I had bills to pay tho and job to use the tools at.

[teazer]

My timing light was less than 50 bucks from Sears, so I searched and found this one.   
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM5125846801P?blockNo=4&blockType=G4&prdNo=4&i_cntr=1319213110272

High load, low rpm sounds like jetting or a weak ignition but they are usually good at low revs and drop off as revs rise.  Just for giggles, try it with pilot jets one size smaller/larger just to see what happens. Or try the fuel/float level up/down by 1mm.

[ben2go]

My timing light was less than 50 bucks from Sears, so I searched and found this one.   
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM5125846801P?blockNo=4&blockType=G4&prdNo=4&i_cntr=1319213110272

High load, low rpm sounds like jetting or a weak ignition but they are usually good at low revs and drop off as revs rise.  Just for giggles, try it with pilot jets one size smaller/larger just to see what happens. Or try the fuel/float level up/down by 1mm.

1 jet size down causes hanging idle.1 jet size up cause a soggy bottom end.I'll check the float levels and adjust them to see what happens.


Being that my issue is at low rpm,could it be a charging system issue?My battery is in top shape and has no issues starting the bike after sitting for a couple weeks and well,it's new ish.I did a charging system check back in spring but crap breaks down.I'll check it again anyway to be sure.Also,I noticed that my valves are getting tight.It's time to check and adjust.That could be my problem,a tight valve.If I can get the honey do list done in time,I'll screw up,I mean screw with my bike some and report back.

[teazer]

That is a real possibility.  I'd suggest that you check teh voltage , not running, at idle and at say 3,000 rpm and 5,000 rpm and see what's going on. If it's drawing more current that the battery has available at low revs that could cause a misfire.

You could also try running it with the headlight disconnected and see if that makes any difference.

[ben2go]

My multimeter is fooked.   It will test voltage but not resistance.Wish I had my old fluke back.


Here's the charging system break down.
Voltage at battery
engine off 12.8
idle 1200 rpm 14.18
3000 rpm 13.48
5000 rpm 13.49
Battery drain test came in at 0.60 ma.Sevice limit is 1.5 ma.




Stator voltage varied between 85 and 89.Service minimum is 75 volts.I still have to pull the tank and check voltage at the ignition coils.

[peteGS]

My multimeter is fooked.   It will test voltage but not resistance.Wish I had my old fluke back.


Here's the charging system break down.
Voltage at battery
engine off 12.8
idle 1200 rpm 14.18
3000 rpm 13.48
5000 rpm 13.49
Battery drain test came in at 0.60 ma.Sevice limit is 1.5 ma.




Stator voltage varied between 85 and 89.Service minimum is 75 volts.I still have to pull the tank and check voltage at the ignition coils.

Hate to say it but those figures tell me your R/R ain't working right.
 
They're similar to what mine shows and it's a dud, voltage should be increasing up to 14. something at 5K RPM, not start at 14. something and drop...
 
Could be just connections rather than a faulty R/R, but it's definitely not right... might also be unrelated to your issue...

[ben2go]

Hate to say it but those figures tell me your R/R ain't working right.
 
They're similar to what mine shows and it's a dud, voltage should be increasing up to 14. something at 5K RPM, not start at 14. something and drop...
 
Could be just connections rather than a faulty R/R, but it's definitely not right... might also be unrelated to your issue...

I just went through,cleaned all my bikes electrical connections, and put it fresh dielectric grease.I think my reg/rect is shot.I have another one but the damn screws are rusted into the mounting plate on my purple bike.I'll pull it out tomorrow and drill out the screws.Speaking of my purple bike,I was looking at it to night,and it only has 3018 miles on it.All the GS5s I have bought have had less than 5000 miles on them.

[peteGS]

Less than 5000 miles? They're not even run in yet 

[ben2go]

Yep,all less than 5000 miles.My 89 black bike had 4762 miles,92 purple bike has 3017,and the 92 red bike has 1865.The Tite Trike frame is a 90 and I don't know what the mileage is but it can't be much.That frame is pristine considering it's age.The other bikes that have passed through my hands, have all had less than 5000 miles, but most were neglected and abused.


Here's the purple bikes odometer.






Here's the little gem that I need.Suzuki uses shitty fasteners.Every bike I have worked on has had rusted fasteners.Even brand new bikes.I don't get.So I will be drilling these off in just a little while.

[peteGS]

Cool... and yes that do use dodgy fasteners! They also supply dodgy R/R's...
 
I've just wired up a cheap Taiwanese copy of a good Honda R/R for mine.
 
The Honda ones are a bit more robust and have a sixth wire for a sense wire so they don't over charge or under charge.
 
I got the cheapy because it was new, cheap, and I could get it relatively quickly.

[ben2go]

Cool... and yes that do use dodgy fasteners! They also supply dodgy R/R's...
 
I've just wired up a cheap Taiwanese copy of a good Honda R/R for mine.
 
The Honda ones are a bit more robust and have a sixth wire for a sense wire so they don't over charge or under charge.
 
I got the cheapy because it was new, cheap, and I could get it relatively quickly.

Is there one available for Suzuki?I think the one I just put on is bad also.
Voltages as follows.
engine off 13.46
Idle 1200 rpm 14.62
3000 rpm 13.90
5000rpm 13.78


This is really pissing me off.We have had good weather and I can't ride. 

[teazer]

Those are odd numbers but within spec and enough volts at low revs for that to NOT be the issues.  Darn it.

You don't have resistor caps and resistor plugs in there do you?

[Swapmeet Louie]

Yep.. Those numbers are good.