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Author Topic: Down under, an idiot and a 400F  (Read 445759 times)

Offline beachcomber

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Re: Down under, an idiot and a 400F
« Reply #30 on: Dec 02, 2011, 07:04:57 »
The tanks vary in material thickness - personally I'd go for a gauge up on the stocker so the implant keeps the shape better.

Also - re: cutting and splicing damaged tubes. Been doing that for YEARS with our racing replica Cobras ! Make a good fitting spigot to go inside the the tube after you've cut the bad bit out and simply splice in a new piece of tube. More work afterwards in fettling but simple, effective and safe. Of course if you can get someone to bend the relevant pieces that's better. Maybe blackberry a damaged frame? [ front end ].

Can't wait to see progress on this little chap.

Before and nearly after on my TR1 tank ! Still work to do - remove material at bottom edgs of tank [ too deep at the moment ] and radius off the edges on the top of the tank to the rear. A bit of surfacing - primer / filler - and then final prep for moulds to be taken. I'm fitting a 2 1/2" brass Monza filler cap and a Manx style tank strap.

BTW - I did take my own advice and we fitted Blue plant ons before the first mock up!



« Last Edit: Dec 02, 2011, 07:28:17 by beachcomber »
"if at first you don't succeed, you've already been a failure once"

" we're not going back to the sixties - we never left "

"yep, nostalgia ain't what it used to be"

"I used to be indecisive - now I'm not so sure"

Offline neevo

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    • The blog of my custom CB400F build
Down under, an idiot and a 400F
« Reply #31 on: Dec 03, 2011, 22:42:33 »
Sooooooo, my quest for carbs is a bit off track at the moment and without a kickstarter doing a run test or checking compression was going to be tough. So I did the newbie thing and removed the motor from the bike:



Cardinal sin #2 I thought I would go a bit further:



Issue #1, it looks like something has got caught in the cam guide, it has wedged itself in there and taken a strip out of the cam itself:





Anyone got some thoughts on how and if I should get this fixed? It looks like it has taken enough material out that it's no longer cutting material out, and the cam has enough guide on the end to run on. Would like to fix properly if required though.

Went further and split the cases:



Crank bearings look good with a few tiny rub marks, is this something to worry about or not?





Gearbox is immaculate:



As is primary drive and chain:



Crank seems fine too, how do you tell if cam chain needs replacing, or should I just do it anyway with the sliders?



Lastly the cases are absolutely filthy, thinking of giving these to a pro to clean up, any thoughts? What would they do to clean them up, what needs to be done afterwards (paint or leave stripped)?

« Last Edit: Dec 03, 2011, 22:48:15 by neevo »


See the condensed version of my full build on my blog!

Offline neevo

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    • The blog of my custom CB400F build
Down under, an idiot and a 400F
« Reply #32 on: Dec 04, 2011, 01:08:41 »
Thought I would have one last go at the bike before I cleaned up the garage. Cut off the side stand and centre stand brackets.





The side stand had split the frame rail, not sure why as the tube wasn't rotted out at all. I think it may have taken a whack with a forklift like the rear frame upright.

Cleaned up and ready to be welded back on. It's got a bit of a link in it too that will need to be hit out of it before its mounted:



See the condensed version of my full build on my blog!

Offline Kanticoy

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Re: Down under, an idiot and a 400F
« Reply #33 on: Dec 04, 2011, 01:34:52 »
Honestly man, and I don't mean to be a downer, but the head and cam are toast.  They will never wear right after that amount of damage.  The crank bearings need replaced as well.  They are pretty worn out of spec.  I have a cam that you can have once I get it completely pulled that is stock from a spare motor in good shape if you pay the shipping from the US.  I would keep an eye out for a "new" head on Ebay.  The cam chain....replace it while you have it down that far.  Get a DID or a Tsubaki HD replacement and keep the peace of mind.  Pay special attention to the cam tensioner horseshoe and make sure it isn't worn and that it moves freely.  Also pull the cam tensioner bolt out of the front of the motor and replace it with a solid sized bolt and lock nut instead of the step down bolt that is factory.  They will break eventually, trust me.  I would replace the cam tensioner with one of these while it's apart if I were you with one of these.  They are bronze bushed and MUCH higher quality than the cast, seizure prone original:

http://www.phildentonengineering.com/product.asp?pid=490

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the head is going to be the worst of your problems, but they are obtainable and will guarantee you keep on running with no worries later.  It could have been an oil starvation issue to the head, so make sure all of the oil galleries are clean, clean the crap out of the oil pickup screen and tube in the sump, and rebuild your oil pump with new oil rings.  Get an oil seal kit and replace all of those while you're in there.  You're doing the right thing by doing a complete rebuild. You'll be much happier when you do all of this, I promise you. 

I get not knowing, but I can't for the life of me understand not trying. It's only metal it can be fixed. Man up and risk a mistake in exchange for a lesson.
'

Offline neevo

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    • The blog of my custom CB400F build
Down under, an idiot and a 400F
« Reply #34 on: Dec 04, 2011, 02:04:31 »
Thanks Kanticoy, definitely take that cam off you, very generous, thanks!

Will have more bike allowance in Jan if you don't mind waiting till then.

Planned on replacing the chain, sliders so good to hear that's the right move. Crank bearings are relatively cheap too so good to know I should pull them out too. Any tips on getting them out?

2 fell out but the rest are in there pretty tight.


See the condensed version of my full build on my blog!

Offline beachcomber

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Re: Down under, an idiot and a 400F
« Reply #35 on: Dec 04, 2011, 06:37:00 »
So I did the newbie thing and removed the motor from the bike:

In the event - not neccessarily a newbie thing !!

IF I intend to pull a motor down in a new to me bike, I don't see any point in running it first. Had you run the motor and been tempted to rev it a little - who knows what additional damage may have been done?

I agree with Kanticoy - oil starvation looks a likely candidate for the cam issues.
"if at first you don't succeed, you've already been a failure once"

" we're not going back to the sixties - we never left "

"yep, nostalgia ain't what it used to be"

"I used to be indecisive - now I'm not so sure"

Offline Hoosier Daddy

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Re: Down under, an idiot and a 400F
« Reply #36 on: Dec 04, 2011, 07:37:18 »
Bummer about the cam journal, but at least you found it before hand... and yes, I would start looking for a head as well as taking Kanticoy up on his generous offer for the cam.
“Before you diagnose yourself with depression or low self esteem, why don’t you just make sure that you’re just not in fact surrounded by a bunch of assholes, alright?”


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Offline neevo

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    • The blog of my custom CB400F build
Down under, an idiot and a 400F
« Reply #37 on: Dec 04, 2011, 15:16:37 »
Might look to see if I can get a custom journal made up for it, 2nd hand heads are pretty thin on the ground and not guaranteed issue free.

Kanticoy, definitely interested in that cam :)


See the condensed version of my full build on my blog!

Offline bikeboy

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Re: Down under, an idiot and a 400F
« Reply #38 on: Dec 04, 2011, 18:08:18 »
2nd hand heads are pretty thin on the ground and not guaranteed issue free.

I've always wondered if the 500/550 heads would fit these bikes? I know you can swap the DOHC 750/900 heads with a little work, so maybe the SOHC form-factors are similar enough as well? Lots more 500/550 parts around.

ian

Offline Kanticoy

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Re: Down under, an idiot and a 400F
« Reply #39 on: Dec 04, 2011, 18:26:41 »
Unfortunately no bikeboy. The profile on the 350f and 400f are totally different. The mating surfaces are completely different. A 350f head will work but its a bit of a downgrade because of the valve profile. I know they suck to find used heads, I've looked for them. Pretty much your option as it stands is to replace the head with another one, or machine out the cam journals to accept a needle bearing that fits over the cam and seats into the head. Sean and roc city did that with a cb360 head. Either way would fix it, just different avenues. I'll hold on to the cam for ya man.
I get not knowing, but I can't for the life of me understand not trying. It's only metal it can be fixed. Man up and risk a mistake in exchange for a lesson.
'