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I'd need better pics to be sure, but they look like generic aftermarket 4-1 headers from the 70's that used to just slide into the collector. Hence you slide the stock collars over the collector ends, put the pipes in the collector and bolt them up.
I'd need better pics to be sure, but they look like generic aftermarket 4-1 headers from the 70's that used to just slide into the collector. Hence you slide the stock collars over the collector ends, put the pipes in the collector and bolt them up.
The chrome trims are filthy, plus I am looking to have some dents taken out of the headers, and going to have them treated afterwards (chrome or something close).
Tore into the master cylinder, god knows why, I just can't help myself. I think the reality of this build is that everything is going to be taken apart, cleaned right up or replaced/customised.
The master cylinder worked but the washer was rusted in there. Took a good thump with a drift through the other side to get it out. The surface looks fine inside but a rebuild kit is needed to put it back together. Nice and clean:
Went to my local truck fab place and bought some 6mm and a huge piece of 3mm aluminium:
Going to make a custom mud guard for the bike out of this instead of putting the plastic one back on, anyone got suggestions on what to do with it? Was going to powdercoat with the frame if it doesn't get too chopped with road litter.
The 6mm got turned into a brake arm:
Needs some fine tuning on one edge, plus it's marked up for drilling alternately large and small holes:
Eyeing up a few drill presses on eBay to do the job right, plus I can drill my brake disc with it too.
Neevo - David Silvers in the UK sell an aftermarket master cylinder, complete with lever, that looks very similar to the OEM version, for about the same price as a rebuild kit. For your consideration.
Nice work...interested to see how the tank finishes. Planning to do the same with my tank. Not sure if I'll be cutting and welding it back up myself or to hammer it in.
Forget eBay on the drill press. Picked mine up from supercheap for $70 last week and think they're still on sale
Re: the headers - the pic shown is FACTORY STOCK. The only new bike I ever bought was the twin of the one in the pic. And as stated, one of the iconic parts of the bike.
To Remove the collars......................the usual goodly spray of WD40 / similar then.
tap the collars AWAY from the flanges -ie down the pipe about 2".
There is a FLAT SPLIT RETAINING RING WHICH SITS ON THE FLANGE. This then sits inside the recess in the finned collar and holds everything in place.
If you've managed to beat the collar off, then the split ring is a gonner !!!!!
Neevo - David Silvers in the UK sell an aftermarket master cylinder, complete with lever, that looks very similar to the OEM version, for about the same price as a rebuild kit. For your consideration.
Beachcomber I have taken those bits out already. The issue appears to be a solid collar on the end of the pipes, not sure if it's fixed on there or if I can hit it off. Will see how I go, it's got me scratching my head though.
I thought it may have been a removal part, something like this:
I took the pipes off my 400F some years ago to give them a thorough clean up.Mine had only done 6,500 miles and was as new [ 20 years old ! ] and the collars came off easilly.
It's probably years of gunge that's stopping the collars from slipping off. The collar is NOT put on and then flange welded on the tube. If that were the case, there'd be no need for the split rings ???
Maybe a good root around with a wire brush on your drill ?
@Beachcomber - but what Neevo is dealing with isn't factory stock. As you say - with the stock headers, the cast collars just slip back down; the split collars fall out and the header can be removed. Then the cast collars will just slip off of the header. Easy.
What Neevo is dealing with isn't a stock setup - see back a page or two. The picture of the stock setup was posted for comparison.
@Beachcomber - but what Neevo is dealing with isn't factory stock. As you say - with the stock headers, the cast collars just slip back down; the split collars fall out and the header can be removed. Then the cast collars will just slip off of the header. Easy.
What Neevo is dealing with isn't a stock setup - see back a page or two. The picture of the stock setup was posted for comparison.
Used one of the templates on here to mark up my rotor for drilling. Got some A4 Avery stickers to print on so I could stick directly onto the rotor.
Major pain getting the size exactly right and had to overlay 2 but I think it's not too bad. Will be punching drilling guides then pilot holes followed by 2 size holes. Won't be chamfering but keen to know how people dress the disc afterwards. Here's the pics:
Wow. that's a lot of holes. and these disks are THICK. You're in for a bit of a marathon my friend. For shits and giggles, you should weigh the rotor before and after with some reasonably accurate (gram) scales. I chamfered my holes to make it a bit easier on the pads, but they've now worn down past that anyway, so not sure if it did/does any good. New disks are punched I believe, and have the sharper edges anyway.
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