XL/CB100 cafe - "Mini-Mono" >> she's alive!

[Erskine]

All my welding practice is starting to pay off and it's making so much possible for me.
The cable stop conundrum I got to was whether to have an  arm below the brake lever so it pulled backwards, or on the top so it pulled forwards, or to attach the cable to the centre of the lever so it pulled downwards.

[Flying J]

here is a little discussion on the subject.   http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=66129.0
i looked around and couldnt find the topic that i was thinking of. I have considered this for some of my bikes as well.

[eyhonda]

The cable stop conundrum I got to was whether to have an  arm below the brake lever so it pulled backwards, or on the top so it pulled forwards, or to attach the cable to the centre of the lever so it pulled downwards.

I plan on a top pointing lever to be pulled forward.    With a cable, it seems its best to pull forward.   Pulling backward would mean routing the cable to point 180 degrees.    My cable isn't long enough anyway.    If it was pointing down, it can still be pulled forward.

here is a little discussion on the subject.   http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=66129.0
i looked around and couldnt find the topic that i was thinking of. I have considered this for some of my bikes as well.

Thanks for the link.   I was thinking to bolt on a cable stop to the brake plate on the top.     It will likely be similar to the cb500 bike in that link.   My brake plate is a smallish 120mm SLS anyway.    There won't be much rear braking needed on a small thumper for the road.   It should hold fine.   
I found a cable stop here: www.grintriumph.com/triumph1.htm   It is part number 37-3996.   It looks to be a bolt on type.  I have to inquire to make sure.  I will use a similar stop on the lever end as well.   I may need a bracket to hold it. 

I will post when I get to this point.   

[eyhonda]

Ok,  I finished the task of fitting bronze bushings!   I found the right size at ASB.   25mm OD, 16mm ID and 16mm long.   I needed 4 pieces, two per side.   After pressing them in, I had a machinist bore the hole to .002" bigger than the collars for slip fit!   








I drilled a 1/8" thru the top and thru the bushing for maintaining grease.  I'll rubber cap it later.    Upon assembling it, it has a nice precision pivot action, similar to the roller steering head bearings up front!

Also, got in the tires and they are already mounted.


Then the tranny got semi-assembled.   I will have to pop off the left side and put on the HondaBond I forgot.


The hub on the table is my son's hub.   Boy, he's got some work to do!   He keeps saying, "this is a lot of work"!   He still has a lot more to do!

[eyhonda]

I got around this weekend to practicing with my son's new Lincoln welder.   The rearset bracket are on now.





Next, I'll weld on brackets for the rear cable stop, tank rubber holders, rear tank mount and steering stop.

If you noticed, I changed the rear shocks again for the third time.  The first one was a bit short, the second one was just crappy and both looked too big (2.5"springs).   Here are some moped shocks made by Sebac (Italian) and the springs look more proportional to the whole bike at 2.0" diameter.

The pegs were mounted at the rearmost hole but it was way too aggressive (15.5" from seat).  This is the lowest I can weld the brackets on without bottoming out on the right side.  Now, it is at the front hole which is at a more reasonable 17" or so from the seat.   I'm assuming 3-4" of seat height for now.    The pegs are about 13" from the ground, unloaded.

One problem I need help with is, how do I get the tire bead seated?    This is the first time I was not able to get it seat just from inflation.   These BT39ss tires are stiff!

Eric

[eyhonda]

I did a search and it's the same answer.   But what is the safe max?   Elsewhere, they went 70psi.   It is only a 2.50 x 18 tire.  There is no max PSI stated on the tire. 

I will try 70 or 80 psi, soapy water and a heat gun to soften the tire a bit.   I'll use it in the low setting.   Heat guns can do some damage.

[eyhonda]

Ok, no heat gun.  I have a small room heater.   

No 17" rim.   18" both ends.  The only XL parts are the frame and swingarm.

It seems like 40 is not much over the normal psi. 

Thanks for the tips.  I'll try it sometime this week.

[Rick4004]

Hey Eric,

I am surprised you are having trouble seating the tires. They are tires with tubes, right? Those types of rims generally don't have "beads" like a tubeless tire, so they generally don't pop into place like a tubeless tire.

Someone already suggested using some soap, and another trick is, once you have the air in the tire (45-50 psi is fine), bounce the wheel up and down on the floor from a couple of feet off the ground with the unseated area at the bottom.

Conversely, hit the tire with a deadblow hammer where it isn't seated.

I changed hundreds of tires when I worked at a Honda dealer when I was young, never had one explode or anything, but it's always a good idea to where eye protection and ear plugs.

Rick Denoon

[eyhonda]

Hey Rick!  Cool to see here on DTT!  BTW, I responded to your cb550 carb boring post.

Anyway, yes tube tires.  They are BT39-SS race tires, if that matters.  They are pretty stiff.   The only suspicion I have is the alloy rims.   Maybe, they are from Taiwan and the circumference is a tad big.  Also, will the rim strip hang up the tire?   I've installed many tires and built many spoked wheels.   I've never had a beading issue.  I've pumped them to 60-70psi and nothing.  I tried the bouncing and a rubber mallet.  The only thing that happens is a lot of cursing.  When I start cursing words in different combinations, I'm really mad!  The Bridgestone site states 57psi max but not sure if that's just for beading or for normal use.

Hey Eric,

I am surprised you are having trouble seating the tires. They are tires with tubes, right? Those types of rims generally don't have "beads" like a tubeless tire, so they generally don't pop into place like a tubeless tire.

Rick Denoon

Do you mean the tires don't have beads?

Here is the Bridgestone page:
http://www.bridgestone.com/products/motorcycle_tires/products/battlax/bt39ss.html   

It is a tube type tire and the CB160 guys use it all the time on spoked rims.

[Rick4004]

Eric,

One other tip on a different subject - When the zinc plates on your plating kit die, instead of buying replacements from Caswell (which are way expensive), go down to Home Depot and buy a roll of "Moss Boss" http://www.homedepot.ca/product/moss-boss-zinc-moss-kill-2-5-8-in-x-50-feet/971885

99.4% pure zinc, and you get 50 feet for a fraction of the price. I've used it with my Caswell kit and it works great.

Rick Denoon

[eyhonda]

Nice tip!  I was wondering about that!   I cut the included piece in half.   The first half is getting small fast!    I love plating!   I plate some of my tools too!   If the wifey wasn't looking, maybe I'll do some spoons and forks!

I just checked the Home Depots here.    Not sold in Home Depots in the US!    Weird, why only Canada?

After some googling, I found it online here:
http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/roofing-tools-accessories/moss-zinc-strip-50-roll/p-1380342.htm

$30 for 50ft, nice price!   Also, I believe the solution is quite reusable but not sure how long.   

[Rick4004]

I've been using the same solution for about 5 years. (not that it gets used all that often). I just keep it in a sealed plastic pail, and make sure only clean steel goes in for plating. If you do lose some to evaporation, just top it up with distilled water.

[eyhonda]

Do you add any additional salt?  I read somewhere that sugar will add brightness.    Well, it's good to know it will last years!   I bought an aquarium heater to heat the solution.

Update on the tire bead:   It's done!    High pressure over 70 psi was needed but the real trick was silicon lubricant spray.     Soapy water was not slippery enough, I'm guessing.    After I sprayed it with silicon, I can see the tire slowly moving outwards with more air pressure.    With the soapy water, it never moved.

[SCARE!]

great read.. keep up the good work. we are starting work on an XL soon and were toying around with how to do the rearsets, I like what you have done..

[eyhonda]

Thanks Scare!   It'll be a slow build.  So just be patient.   I'm limited by funding and I want to build it without rushing.   There's a lot of detail to think about.   Remember, I'm building a bike not rebuilding a bike.   Some sub-assemblies are rebuilt (motor, forks, etc.).     I'm starting with nothing.   So every piece has to be thought out and procured.    I like it this way since I can use parts I want not just use what I have.   I'll engineer a part (fabricate, have machined or ?), pick it out of the Honda parts bin thru research (aka, other Hondas) or get a new aftermarket part.   Many parts can be upgraded through new available parts or parts from a newer or bigger Honda.  Every part is a small project (wheels, bronze bushings, etc.).    Even the tank, I'll view as a project in it's own.  It's the whole process I enjoy.