XL/CB100 cafe - "Mini-Mono" >> she's alive!

[eyhonda]

I've figured out a solution for a rear brake cable setup.   I was going to fab a set by drilling and tapping aluminum block for standard M8 cable adjusters.    But it struck me that the OEM cable stops for the clutch might work.   I straightened them out and mounted the rear off the brake stay bolt and the one near the footpeg on the second hole.









For the cable, I just cut up the front one.   I looped the cable to avoid sharp turns.   I'm waiting on cable caps before I finish off the end for the brake pedal.  Later, I will attach a rear pin to stop the pedal.

I'm about to put the rings on the piston.   Can someone tell me which ring is which (first two)?    I know which way it faces up.  I just need to know which ring is which.   One ring has a rabbit cut on the bottom inside.

[eyhonda]

Ok, I know now which ring is on top.   The compression ring has chamfer on the edge.   If the rings are new, which they should be, the chamfer will be silver and the rest black.  The second ring is the scraper with a straight edge.   I think the rabbit cut in it is just to help identify the ring as the scraper and not compression ring.

[eyhonda]

I finished off the rear brake cable using silver solder and a culinary mini-torch.    It works great for soldering heavy metal.



I just noticed from this picture that the kickstart lever will be awefully close.  I'll inspect it tonight.   Hopefully, it clears with the peg folded up.

I threw in my son's motor so I can setup the shift linkage length.   It looks a bit busy but I will likely just go with a single threaded rod later.   This is just what I had in my bins for now.


I wasn't too happy with the stock levers or replacement levers.  The action on the pivot was too sloppy.   I put bearings in the steering and the swingarm.  So, I wanted smooth action on the levers too.   I found a set of clutch lever assemblies that are forged aluminum with needle bearings in the pivot.  They are MSR AOF clutch lever assemblies.   For the brake side, I used a second clutch assembly and just flipped it.   I'll modify it so I can flip the bolt/nuts.  Plus the big red alloy adjusting knob just looks cool!

[eyhonda]

Yup, it was.  Like I said, I never encountered that problem before.  Maybe, because these are race tires and they are stiffer sidewalls?   I had a slight valve leak and I had to do it all over again the next morning.  It was bit easier maybe because the tire was already formed to fit.   But, next time, I'll look into that bead lube you mentioned.  Thanks!

[Erskine]

I am 100% impressed by your solution for a cable operated rear brake.
Bloody brilliant, I may well steal the idea.

[eyhonda]

Sorry thats not Michelin stuff,I just used to get it from the M. distributor.It's "REMA tip top" brand stuff.It looks weird like some sort of confectionary.

Another trick when trying to seat tires is to wrap a wide nylon tie down around the circumferance of the tire tightly when inflating.

OK, I'll keep a note on it.

As far as that trick, I tried that and bouncing it.  The strap just binded up near the ratchet.   Anyway, the best solution was just the high pressure and lube (silicon in my case).

I am 100% impressed by your solution for a cable operated rear brake.
Bloody brilliant, I may well steal the idea.

Thanks!  I thought so too myself!  I love using existing parts for other things, especially if it's a factory part.    To think I was going to spend $20 for that Ergal part in the UK when I got mine for basically free.   Actually, now I need two new parts to replace the actual clutch cable stop.  They are NLA at the local dealer (was only $2.75!) and now I'm scrounging for used parts.   But the same clutch cable stop used in other bikes will also work, depending how it's shaped.    Also, the cable adjusters were just leftover parts from previous bikes where it was replaced with a brass version.  Cool!  I'm glad I was able to lend an idea to you and the forum!

[Erskine]

At some point I want to fit a brake plate to my sidecar wheel and hook it up to the rear brake lever, using those parts will make it a much easier connection!

[eyhonda]

I've been busy painting.  And as you know, enamel takes a week to cure.  Also, I had a hellashish time putting the tranny cases together.   The kickstarter spring popped off or the pawl popped out of position every time.   I must have redid it 15 times or so!  Anyway, I finally just put a bend in the spring so it will stay put.   Here are some shots:







The left cover is painted silver while the ignition and alternator covers are the usual polished finish.   I still need to drill holes in the sprocket cover.    Have to think about a cool pattern.   That can come later as I think more about it.

I have to figure out the ignition trigger.  I may get the stock rotor/advancer and the pulser unit just to get things going.  It depends on the voltage needed for the pulser.

Also, since I figured out how to (somewhat) weld, I built an engine stand.   Once it's finished, I can mount the tranny/cylinder and then mount the head.   Otherwise, right now it will just flip flop around.

Let's see what else..   I plan on either a DC10-1 single output or a DC7-1 dual output coil.   The single comes only in pairs and the dual comes in a single.  I may get the single just cuz it's cheaper and it will work.   Unless someone here on DTT needs a DC10-1 also.   Then we can split it the cost ($120 + shipping to you).   It's the normal 5 ohm primary.

I'm still designing the ignition controller but will build it in stages since the last stage requires a lot of code.   I will need an ignition curve baseline for prototyping anyway.  So, the first stage will be just the stock weighted curve and using whatever trigger to fire a coil transistor to the coil.

I got a 26mm xr200 (PD97 series) Keihin carb ready to go, along with a throttle assembly and Unifilter pod.   Also, got an XR200 exhaust header on the way.   Not sure how it will fit as it is probably designed for a monoshock chassis.   I can cut and weld it to fit though.  I plan on some sort of undertail muffler/reverse cone/megaphone.

No stator planned as I will ride lossless.    I will be getting some sort of LiPO4 battery.   So, I will need to fab and weld up a battery bracket.   I don't plan to ride much if at all during the night or for very long at a time.   I want to have the motor spin faster with no flywheel and I don't want the issues with charging (6v, 12v, regulator, etc.).

As you noticed, the frame is not yet painted.   I have to wait for painting until all the necessary brackets are welded on.   I have the tank brackets welded on.    The steering stops are welded on but will need to be redone.   They aren't even.  I'm still practicing welding at the same time.   Pics to come later.

[marla_do]

wow those engine colors look awesome. what brand paint did you use and got a product id on that gold?

post up some more pics (like in your av) shes a stunner

[eyhonda]

Hey thanks!   I got the engine paint codes from the engine build sticky.

VHT SP404 Gold Flake Paint.
Duplicolor Engine Enamel Gloss Black DE1613.
Duplicolor Engine Enamel Aluminum DE1615.
Duplicolor Self etching primer.

If you want the gold to be darker like magnesium, go with VHT SP404 Gold Flake Paint.

Here are updated pics with the head installed on the stand:






I'm waiting on an XR200 ignition rotor and pulser.  Also, I needed a new cam chain.  The one used on 2 piece heads apparently needs a shorter chain (98 vs 100).   A new one either way is better.   I'll be designing a new electronic ignition that will use the pulser signal to coil transistor.   A stage 2 design will incorporate an embedded system with an Atmel 8 bit micro to control the ignition curve and some additional features (voltmeter, speedo out, timing indicator, etc).

I welded on the front and rear tank mounts.  The front was just a bolt cut down.   The rear was a long bolt welded in.

Here is the rear of the tank.  It is raised to level it and clear the frame rails:


As of today, the cam chain, rotor and pulser are installed.  The valves are adjusted and timed.  I have to install it in the frame now.  I also need to get a kicker so I can check compression and check the signal from the pulser.

[iamchris]

This is such a cool build thread.  Thanks for posting it!

[eyhonda]

Yeah, thanks!   Hope you enjoy the journey too! 

I hope the next update is a running motor!

[eyhonda]

It's been more than a month since my last posted update.   I've moved everything up from the basement shop to the garage during the early spring.   I built a work table to finish the assembly and for future work.


Since  then, I've  installed the motor, carb, chain and  partial ignition.
Thanks to Rick4004 and his awesome machining skills, I have the needed axle spacers to finally mount the wheels.



The front wheel/brake assembly is all buttoned up:


A shot of rear quarter showing the approximate location of the exhaust muffler.  It is from an XR100.  So some modification of the pipes will be needed to fit correctly.


Right side of the motor showing the exhaust & carb fitment.


Carb is a tight fit to the frame.  I had to modify the choke assembly to be right side actuated to clear the frame.


Here is a close up of the kickstart arm and clutch cable bracket.    I need to work out the interference issue with the kickstarter.
The clutch cable needs to be shortened about an inch.


A shot of the rear end.....


This is more of an update to show where it's been since March.    Not much has really been done though.   I've been coding the stage 2 ignition controller and trying to debug it.

The "to do" list:

1. Full wiring harness.   Connect stage 1 ignition controller and debug it.

2. Close up the left side of motor.    Fill with oil.

3. Weld up the exhaust.   I may use the stock exhaust temporarily so I can fire it up.

4. Tighten everything up.   Install petcock and fuel line.   Add fuel and cross my fingers.   Hopefully, we have a running motor next!



 

[Erskine]

Digging it!
You missed no 5 - big bore kit
Looking bloody great, love the 2LS front.

[marla_do]

sweet tank.the rest looks good too