Universal - Adjustable Rearset - more pictures and discount option

[Viet]

Hey.

Tried different combinations of the shift linkage tooth. Right now I can get it to shift down in most of the configurations but the upshifting continues to be a problem. I just can't seem to find the sweet spot where the upshift and downshift meet. Right now I can't even get it to upshift at all, even though I was able to earlier. However, when I downshift into 1st I'm still able to upshift into neutral (but not into second). I'll keep messing around with it tomorrow and see if I can get it.

Dear Evan,

Could you please check the clutch advance mechanism for the steel ball bearing, if there is no ball then it causing the clutch is not dis-engaged at gear shift and therefore hard to shift. Also making sure of the gearshift shaft (clutch basket end) is not punch out of position. Most of the case when you "hammer" the gear shift linkage into the shaft, the other end of the shaft is slightly out of its position and making the gear shift impossible.
In addition, the CB350 stock shift shaft linkage is too short, it favors the down shift but not the up shift, could you pls try parallel the rod by lower the push lever of rear set or modify the stock linkage with a welding job.
For my self, the stock linkage is modified so as to it make the rod parallel to the floor and the shift work easy.

[Scheidty]

Made some progress today. I can get it to shift up and down, but the bike has to be rolling forward (or backwards) for this to happen. It also takes a lot of force to change gears. When I attempted to take it around the block I managed to get it into first but couldn't upshift to find neutral or any other gears. I'm not sure if this is because I don't have the leverage while riding the bike to shift up, whereas in the garage I can really get some weight behind the upshift. I'm wondering if it's an issue with my clutch adjustment, as I've been periodically making changes at the lever adjustment, the cable adjuster at the top of the case, and the slotted screw and nut on the side of the case.

I've checked for the ball bearing, which is in place, but haven't checked the gearshift shaft. I'm really close to getting it right but can't seem to dial everything in perfectly. I should mention that I'm amateur at best so I don't know everything there is to know about clutch adjustments. I appreciate the help!

[Viet]

Dear Evan,
In my experience, I have made an error when installing the stock linkage. I did use a hammer to force the linkage into the shaft. That cause the other end of gearshift shaft is not in right position to make good shift (though this is protected by a lock spacer). What happended is that I am also able to "kick" it to first and back to neutral ( possibly as I hammer the linkage when gear  was at neutral). I had to open up the rightside, put out the oil cup, took out the primary gear, and the clutch hub to check the gear shift shaft lever, punching the lever back and foward, test it with a direct gear shift lever( used CL 450 lever). After all cost (lot of sweat, a saturday and a gasket), it goes back perfect.
Hope that is not your case.
To check how good your clutch engage/ dis-engage, you could try to make some kicks to your kick starter (slowly) whilst pulling your clutch lever (also slowly), you will see how your clucth dis engage and engage. When you slowly pull the clutch, to some extent, it will slowly dis-engage the clutch and make your kick is like split on mud.   
Best regards
Viet Bac Pham

[Scheidty]

Got the bike to shift up and down smoothly. It still takes some effort but I think that's the nature of the beast here. It's a lot easier when the bike is warmed up and in motion.

The rearsets are easy to install but I found them difficult to adjust because of my novice abilities. I'm going to point out some of the pros and cons after the initial set-up.

Some of the cons-
- The pin that is supposed to be used for the shift adjuster knob is far too small resulting in some slack in the linkage. I simply drilled a larger hole in the clevis and used the stock pin which worked well. The pin on the other end of the rod works well with the arm that attaches to the foot peg.

- The stock brake arm needs to be modified in order to be pointing up (when it is stock it points down). This is a safety feature that makes it very difficult to move around/ fall off. I got around this by attaching the rod to the brake arm in its stock position. There is just enough clearance with the swing arm for this to be possible but I have a feeling that stopping performance would be better with the brake arm pointing up. I might modify it in the days to follow.

- I find the toe pegs to be a bit small and will probably attach some rubber to them. Keep in mind I'm coming from the massive stock configuration so it could be a simple matter of getting used to them. I find myself missing them completely resulting in some embarrassing/awkward moments.

- Will have to move stuck mufflers down (CB350) or to the side to have enough clearance to shift properly. I was able to do this easily with some very crude brackets.

The pros.

- The adjustability of these is quite remarkable. The arm that is attached to the peg can rotate 360 degrees in fairly small increments and is held in place by a circlip. Very snug and secure and was absolutely essential when setting up.

-These things are durable! They are very thick and look like they will take some abuse and appear to be well made/thought out.

-Value. They come with all the linkages, pins, cotter pins, washers, nuts, instructions and even a sew-on patch. Everything came neatly packaged with extra circlips and the CL350 bracket. For Canadian customers I paid no duty and no extra fees. 115 out the door which is great.

Comments for future improvements
-bigger toe piece and options for moving the toe piece back and forth depending on shoe size (maybe include rubber in the package as well).
-larger pin for shifter arm and matching clevis.
-bike specific brackets so that the position of the foot peg can be adjusted to different heights or back and forth.
-A small spring and smaller drilled holes so that the brake light switch can be easily attached (the small spring would be used for bringing the lever parallel to the ground, although this could be due to the set-up that I currently have)

Closing remarks
- very satisfied with the product and hopefully they continue to be developed further. I would order another set if needed for another project. Viet was very good to deal with and shipping was relatively fast. I'll try to update if I change the set-up. Thank you to everyone who helped!

[SONICJK]

So what ended up being the shift problem?

[Scheidty]

To be honest I have no idea! Haha! I think it's just a matter of adjusting till it all works out. Part of my problem is that this was my first time installing rearsets so it took longer than expected. Also, I didn't realize that both ends of the rod were threaded, so once I realized that both ends could be lengthened/shortened it helped a lot. A culmination of small victories I guess.

[Viet]

Dear Evan,

Many thanks for your comment. I will add 2 rubber toe pegs for the rear sets. And particularly your idea of drill a small hole for the brake light switch. I also consider making a trim OD8mm and ID 6mm x5mm length for using with stock linkage as your comment. Great comment I have received and I appreciate these a lot.
I have seen your set up with the rear brake rod. I thought (personally) that why don't you try to turn the brake cam lever 180 degree as belows:


Again, Thanks and always welcome.
Viet Bac Pham

[MILKY]

would these fit on an SR250?

[Viet]

would these fit on an SR250?

Dear Milky,
Sorry for late reply but I take a day to get my friend's SR250 to check whether that fit. The answer is SR250 model need a set of brackets and some welding job to fit the rear set. Therefore, my rearset is not a bolt on solution for SR250.
In addition, I could make a brackets bit you still need welding it yourself.
Let me know if you need me do it or not
Best regards

[Scheidty]

Hey Viet

I was wondering what size of screw would fit in the toe peg hole? It seems to be a very fine thread but I couldn't match it to any of the bolts at the hardware store.

 I'm going to modify the brake arm so I can flip the arm upwards and see if there is any difference.

[78KZrider]

These look great. I am wondering if you know if they will fit on a '78 KZ650B? These would really do the trick on my cafe build.

[Viet]

These look great. I am wondering if you know if they will fit on a '78 KZ650B? These would really do the trick on my cafe build.

I have checked with KZ440, the rearset is fit for the KZ440. However, I believe that (excluding the rod size that I do not know) the rearset will fit very good on KZ650 as KZ650 having full clearance for it to work on. If you want, pls send me your rod measurement, I will make 1 set of rod  for you.

Best regards,

Viet

[rocketman]

I'd be interested also in kz650 rearsets!

[Viet]

Could you guys send me some measurements (as depicted in page 2 of this topic). I will make you a bolt on rearset for KZ650

Thanks

[Catbird]

I like that these are made from steel. It can be made thinner and more compact and survives stress much better than aluminum.

I'm considering this right now over making my own rearsets, as even with shipping it's very affordable.