71 Indignant CB175 - In the midst of painting!

[SeekingZero]

I started this build as a tracker and changed directions, so I started a new thread in Cafe Racers.  So if you want an introduction go http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=29522.0, otherwise welcome.

I will do a quick intro so those that don't want to read a separate thread get the gist.

$300 CB175, for my wife.





So a couple things I have questions about.  I am looking at new rear shocks to get a rolling chassis to work with once all the painting is done.  Can anyone recommend a rear shock length and weight load?  I know the stock is 12" (305mm), so I was thinking of getting some after market 12.5" (320mm) with a load weight of 365lbs (165kg) per shock.  Single rider (120lbs-170lbs), daily commuter use.

Also, if anyone has valves for this bike, let me know, I'm buying.

And finally, since I have the rear hoop already on the frame, I'm wondering if I should get/make a cafe seat that just goes over it, or do I make one that incorporates the hoop like this.


That would be fairly simple, but I'm thinking that because the CB frame is stamped, its not going to look near as good as a plain tubular frame. 

Thanks for looking!

[NvgtrWiggles]

I love these small cafe racers.

[SeekingZero]

I finished painting the frame and other pieces. In a week I will start putting the bike together.  I also cleaned up all the parts in a Zep bath, though I should have done it in stages since I'm not sure where most going anymore.



And I got around to the wheels.  I'll start cleaning them up and prep for painting.  Has anyone painted hubs with the spokes still on? I want to black the rims and hubs but leave the spokes, and I would prefer not to have to re-lace.


Does anyone have an idea of how to get this screw out?  I have tried everything short of drilling.


Can anyone help me out with what shocks to buy?

[ProSimex]

take a largish sized phillips driver bit and hammer it into the machine screw to make an impression.  The hit it with a impact driver.  If you dont have an impact driver and you're too cheap to buy one, then put a screwdriver to it, grip said driver with some vice grips, lean on the driver with all your weight and turn with the vice grips.  might work

[SeekingZero]

take a largish sized phillips driver bit and hammer it into the machine screw to make an impression.  The hit it with a impact driver.  If you dont have an impact driver and you're too cheap to buy one, then put a screwdriver to it, grip said driver with some vice grips, lean on the driver with all your weight and turn with the vice grips.  might work

Tried, unfortunately I think the only option now is drilling.  Heat didn't work and neither did the tapping and brute force method. 

[yawlright]

get a set of easy outs if you strip it too badly.  or just drill the head off and get on the leftover stud with vise grips.

[ProSimex]

just keep banging on it man.  Apply some valve lapping past if you have some. Will providr more grip.  Then instead of simply trying to turn it counter clockwise to remove it ya gotta go back and forth.  tighten-loosen-tighten-loosen to help wiggle it loose.  you're basically trying to break down the bonds between screw and thread.

if you have a tap set though then you could just drill it out and re-tap though.

[SeekingZero]

I will go buy an impact wrench soon.  I find myself needing one more often as of late.

So I started tearing apart the wheels.  Of course I measured everything and took many pictures.  The hubs are center-aligned with the wheels, no offset.  And its nice that both rims at 18" and the exact same.  Even so, I have the spokes separated out according the their position on the wheel, for each wheel.




I've found a powder coating shop that I am going to take the hubs and wheels to.  Unfortunately, since I'm going the powder coating route I have to replace all bearings and seals ($90). Oh well, it should be done anyway if I'm going to do this right.

I also just ordered new valves for the head. $48 off Ebay - 20 days to ship. 
Now I just have to verify with the shop what seals/caps I need specifically then buy those.

I am now cleaning up each of the 72 individual spokes, and what a PITA!  It really wears your fingers out.  36 done, 36 to go.

[SeekingZero]

Does anyone know where to get a cam chain tensioner for this bike?  I have been looking around and haven't come up with anything.

[smudger]

I will go buy an impact wrench soon.  I find myself needing one more often as of late.

So I started tearing apart the wheels.  Of course I measured everything and took many pictures.  The hubs are center-aligned with the wheels, no offset.  And its nice that both rims at 18" and the exact same.  Even so, I have the spokes separated out according the their position on the wheel, for each wheel.




I've found a powder coating shop that I am going to take the hubs and wheels to.  Unfortunately, since I'm going the powder coating route I have to replace all bearings and seals ($90). Oh well, it should be done anyway if I'm going to do this right.

I also just ordered new valves for the head. $48 off Ebay - 20 days to ship. 
Now I just have to verify with the shop what seals/caps I need specifically then buy those.

I am now cleaning up each of the 72 individual spokes, and what a PITA!  It really wears your fingers out.  36 done, 36 to go.

how long are the spokes in mm, I bought a hub from ebay and the wheel supply folks want to know the spoke length so as I can rebuild the wheels.

Also the chewed screw for the speedo, I had the same. I tacked a bolt onto it with a welder and it came out a treat

[SeekingZero]

how long are the spokes in mm, I bought a hub from ebay and the wheel supply folks want to know the spoke length so as I can rebuild the wheels.

Also the chewed screw for the speedo, I had the same. I tacked a bolt onto it with a welder and it came out a treat

BikeBandit lists 4 different lengths for the spokes; 150mm, 157.5mm for the front wheel and 162.5mm, and 163.5mm for the rear.  One length is for the inside spokes and one for the outside respective of each wheel.

I wish I had a welder. 

[FingerBanger]

Built one, had for a couple of years for kicking around town, sold a few months ago. Fun little rides.


For valves, ebay is the best bet, it's where I sourced most of my motor parts.
The rear shocks .... these are perfect http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-suspension-eye-eye-324mm-12-inch-retro-slim-black-chrome-shock-absorbers-damper-32-0199.html and cheap.

[SeekingZero]

Thanks for the reply.  I grabbed from valves off ebay, but I also need new valve stem seals for the exhaust valves.  Honda still makes them so that isn't a big deal.  However, I also need the rings on either side of the stem seal and cap, number 11 and 16 in the image.  They are discontinued...does anyone know where I can get them?  Btw, I have done my due diligence, so don't suggest Ebay.

[SeekingZero]

Nevermind on the above post.  It turns out I don't need them after all.

I got around to doing some more to the bike while my friend Chris is in town.  We took apart the forks, cleaned out all of the brown water/oil/dirt/sludge mixture that was in them and did some painting. 




We also started stripping the tank.


And I finally got the valves from Thailand and am now waiting on the new seals and seal caps so that the head can get finished up.


Thanks for looking, and stay tuned for more.

[RENO.HOOLIGAN]

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