CB500T timing problem.

[crazypj]

Check carbs are not vibrating too much, remove filters and check slides are lifting at 4,500
You have checked carb slides move free and not sticking in piston  housing or guide tube?

[jonathan]

Yes I have and they check out. I went and spoke with Mark paris and he suggested rechecking my floats and check to see if a dimple has formed on the float arm from the spring. He also wanted me to check the float needle for a white film. I will check these things and get back to you. If you have any other ideas let me know. Side note I over charged my battery the other day and drove it to work and it ran a little better for about a mile.

[crazypj]

Hmmmmmmm....................................................................
Could be multiple problems?
 You know how to check rectifier and charging system?

[jonathan]

Yep I have checked the charging system. I think the regulator is bad. The rectifier is 0 Ohm's in one direction and 12, 5, 5 Ohm's in the other. According to the climbers manual it is suppose to be high in one direction and low in the other, so I think it checks out. I agree, it probable is a combination of problems.

[jonathan]

So I cleaned both carb's thoroughly and check for the dimples on the flout arms. There were dimples but they didn't seem like they were causing problems. I would like to try to replace my spark pug wires but I don't know how to do that. As always any thoughts or guesses would be great. thanks

[crazypj]

Plug leads are formed into the coils so can't easily be changed.
 You may find instructions if you Google  'new wires in old coils'
 I think you would be better off chasing down problems one at a time though, messing with coils could cause further issues

[jonathan]

So one of my wires in kinked bad so I think that might be why it is missing. Does any one know where I can get coils for my bike or coils that will work with my bike.

[Tim]

Where is the wire kinked?  To confirm things before you go buying coils etc. you can splice plug wires.  Old school way is a nail sharpened on both ends shoved in the cut end of the old wire and new wire with heatshrink over it.

Better way is a splice fitting NGK makes.  Lets you attach new leads to your old coils using a few inches of the old wire coming out of the coils.

Aside from that, check out Z1 Enterprises for some replacement Dyna coils in the right Ohm range along with leads etc.

[jonathan]

Ok thanks I will give it a try and get back.

[jonathan]

No luck yet. I finally got to work on my bike this weekend. I have already tried to trimming back the wires. I also spliced out a bad kink in the right wire, still misfiring. Could something before the coils cause this or am I looking at a valve problem? Also what is the best way to test the engine for misfiring. Any help would be great.

Thanks.

[jonathan]

My bike is now running strong and fast finally. I meet with Mark Paris about three time trying to resolve this problem and finally did. The solution was to bore out the venturi holes in the needle jet holder (it's right above the main jet). I also bored out the slow jet venturi holes to keep it uniform. With the bad gas we have today we have to compensate by drilling out those holes. The stock hole size was #75 (.021") so I bored it out to #73 (.024"). I also had to wash out all of the air filter oil from my uni filter because it was choking the carbs, and ran them with out any oil. Uni filters don't seem to breath enough for these bikes. Im going to try a k&N filter inside of my air box and see how they work. Thanks for all the help.

Jonathan