CB500 Turn-Signal Switch Rebuild - Anyone have a diagram or pics?

So... for SOME odd reason (ahem!), the LH turn-signal switch on my '71 Honda CB500 got... well, DISASSEMBLED, and now I'm having trouble figuring out how it goes back together.

What I'm looking at are the following, all from the inside of the switch housing:

* A white plastic sliding block
* A switch lever that protrudes through a slot in the housing and actuates the sliding block
* A contact bar with 3 soldered connections, from which 3 wires depend (blue, gray, orange)
* A teeny-weenie ball-bearing
* 2 springs, both small, but one slightly larger than the other
* A small, squared-"C"-shaped brass (?) clip

I can tell that the wires (as well as one end of the contact bar it looks like) are clipped under a silver, metal piece which holds them down in place, and I can also tell how the switch lever itself attaches to the sliding block to make it actuate - what I can't tell is the relationship of the ball-bearing, springs, and tiny "C" clip in relation to the 3-point contact bar, since the gubbins were concealed until I removed the set screw and everything fell out.

Dur.

Can someone describe or, even better, SHOW me in a pic or diagram how everything goes back together?

Thanks a million in advance for any assistance...

I sat for a while and studied it, and I think I got it figured out... If I have it right, I think:

The SMALL spring holde the ball bearing at the TOP of the sliding white block (near the end with the thumb switch) - the ball feels like it makes the switch "click" to the left- or right-most position. A "V"-shaped notch at the center of the white block's travel holds the thumb switch securely at the "center" position. I test-fit the sliding block using this method and, indeed, the switch actuates smoothly to the left and right, then clicks softly into place at eirher end of its travel as well as back to the center.

The LARGER spring (which I need to find or replace to verify), seems to go inside a rectangular cut-out on the bottom of the sliding block (opposit the ball-bearing), and, if I'm right. presses the "C"-shaped brass plate OUTWARDS, towards the 3-pin connection block. The brass plate is only wide enough to connect 2 of the 3 pins simultaneously (center+left or center+right), which, logically, should mean that the CENTER pin is always "hot", the when the switch is actuated, the brass plate connects center+left or +right, directing current to that side's blinker circuit (which has i dependent grounds, thereby completing the DC circuit).

Once I find the missing spring (or get a replacement) I can re-assemble and test, but logically that seems like it would make an alternating pair of circuits... Will advise if, indeed, it ends up being true.