Progress - motor work - Project 73 CL175

[dcmspikes]

more progress.   i got my wheels laced up.  the lacing wasnt too hard.  once i figured out that its better to put in all the spokes and then start lacing it went fast.  i need to press in my new bearings and then start truing the wheels.  also got my forks ready for reassembly


before:

after:  painted and polished

forks painted and polished

[boomshakalaka]

what did you use to strip the swingarm?

[dcmspikes]

just a wire wheel on an angle grinder. everything came off easy with that

[boomshakalaka]

just a wire wheel on an angle grinder. everything came off easy with that

oh, cool.  Ill give that a go.  I keep getting offered access to sand blasting equipment, but then it keeps falling through.  Cant really complain though since its not like Im paying

[kadavenport]

Dang ur wheels look slick - good job.

[Curbcast]

what did you use to polish up the hub so nice.  You didnt re-lace the wheel did you?  It looks polished inbetween the two flanges as well.  Right on!

[dcmspikes]

i took the wheels apart.  cleaned the spokes and rims and sprayed them with appliance epoxy.  the hubs i used a bench grinder with buffing wheels and compound.  they look much better then they started, but are far from mirror shine.  i did try to get the buffing wheels in to the middle area of the hubs.  relaced them and im still lagging on trueing them.  having a hard time finding a front tire small enough to properly fit the rim.  im looking for about 80/80 18  or 90/80 18

[Crim]

Have you found out anything about those 200cc pistons?

[dcmspikes]

so the stroke is the same (if i remember correctly)  and obviously the bore is larger (which is why i want to use them), but the wrist pins are larger in the 200cc pistons.  the connecting rods do not have enough material to bore for the 200 wrist pins.  no idea if i could use 200cc connecting rods.  if you have any ideas, on how to fit a big pin in a small hole, please let me know.  so my plan is to just hone the cylinders and use new rings and pistons(if neccesary).  i will probably deck the head to add a little compression and will also be smoothing out the intake/exhaust ports.  im lagging on all of this and need to get this bike back together. 

[hotfunk67]

Hey Josh, those wheels are lookin great. I've finished my bike (for now) check it out at http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=3597.0

[forcefanajd]

so the stroke is the same (if i remember correctly)  and obviously the bore is larger (which is why i want to use them), but the wrist pins are larger in the 200cc pistons.  the connecting rods do not have enough material to bore for the 200 wrist pins.  no idea if i could use 200cc connecting rods.  if you have any ideas, on how to fit a big pin in a small hole, please let me know.  so my plan is to just hone the cylinders and use new rings and pistons(if neccesary).  i will probably deck the head to add a little compression and will also be smoothing out the intake/exhaust ports.  im lagging on all of this and need to get this bike back together. 

don't resurface the head unless you absolutely have to, it drops the cam down closer tithe crankshaft which in turn retards cam timing slightly, remember the chain is a direct connection from gear to gear so by tightening the chain tensioner all yourdoing is getting rid of slack in the chain, your cam timing will always be off unless you do adjustable  cam gears.

[Crim]

don't resurface the head unless you absolutely have to, it drops the cam down closer tithe crankshaft which in turn retards cam timing slightly, remember the chain is a direct connection from gear to gear so by tightening the chain tensioner all yourdoing is getting rid of slack in the chain, your cam timing will always be off unless you do adjustable  cam gears.

I was wondering about this as well, the tech on batemanracing.com mentions decking the head .02", but doesn't mention anything about the timing.  So you think the bump in compression wouldn't be enough to more then offset the loss of power from retarding the cams?

[sebatron]

how would it affect timing?
you're not changing the amount of teeth on either sprocket, and a chain is just a direct link - the amount of links has no bearing on the timing.
regardless of how long the chain is, the cam sprocket will always spin twice for each rev of the crank... unless you add/remove teeth
in other words (more relevant to this thread) the distance between cam and crank has nothing to do with timing whatsoever. right?

[dcmspikes]

would there just be extra slack in the chain, which the tensioner would take care of?

[sebatron]

yep - unsure about the specifics with a cl175, the tensioner should be enough but you may want to remove a link or replace it with a shorter chain to begin with...
mind you, if you're only milling off .05" or whatever off the head, i doubt you'd need to.

i'm going the other way on my build... i'm boring it out but maintaining standard stroke. without porting my combustion chamber, i'll have too high a compression ratio so i'll need to space it somehow - I'm thinking a copper plate in addition to the standard gasket between the jug and the head. problem then becomes that my chain's too short, so i'll have to think of something when the time comes...