'74 CB360 cafe project - (The Green Meanie isn't quite finished yet!)

[3DogNate]

Complete: 11/26



I picked up this pretty well stock 1974 CB360 today and brought it home. It runs, albeit not great, but it'll start first kick (starter works but wire is not attached, so it's kicks-ville until I sort that out. Runs pretty smooth until 4500 rpm or so and then the left cylinder starts running a bit rough... I'm pretty new to these vintage Japanese bikes so I'm sure I'll need some advice and guidance.






And I got a spare motor for parts with it. (Siezed)



 I need to start working on my plan of attack on disassembling and modifying. I'm contemplating on whether or not to just start rebuilding the top end when I pull the engine to clean up the frame. I'll need some recommendation on the best way to deal with the carbs... I'm for sure going to rebuild them,(or have it done.)

That's all for tonight.
Nate

[Sonreir]

Nice bike, man.  It looks to be in pretty good nick.

If one (or both) cylinders are cutting out around the 5000 RPM mark, it's usually a timing issue, but could also be carb related.  Timing is pretty each to check, though, especially if you have a timing light.  You do have or are planning to get a timing light, right?

I'm gonna put my money down on a frozen/stuck advancer.  Let us know how you get on.

-Sonny

[3DogNate]

You do have or are planning to get a timing light, right?

I'm gonna put my money down on a frozen/stuck advancer.  Let us know how you get on.

-Sonny

I do not have a timing light.  But that's easily obtainable.  I can try to set static timing to get validate that timing is the issue or not before I start disassembling.

[3DogNate]

So.... I picked up a timing light yesterday after work. Pulled off the stator cover and advance/points cover. I think I might have a bad spark plug cable/connector... The Timing light is the inductive type. The right cylinder plug wire triggers the light with no problem. The left wire doesnt trigger it at all. though if I pull the plug end and do the screwdriver to plug tip trick I do get spark and that cylinder fires nicely and the light will trigger... (Why the hell did they not make the cable detachable on those coils... ugh.) 

So on the way home today (or at lunch) I'm gonna stop and see if they have replacement plug ends at Napa, do they sell raw plug wire? I read in a thread that you can drill the coil, unsolder the plug wire and epoxy the hole back up to repalce the wire. I'll try just replacing the end before doing the whole cable... I'll replace the plugs and gap them properly too.

[Sonreir]

Replacement plug wire should be fairly easy to locate.  It seems like a lot of trouble to drill out the old ones when new plugs can be had in the $30 range though...

I know the replacements from mikesxs are fairly common, though a small bracket will need to be fabricated in order to get them to fit the stock mounts.

[3DogNate]

Replacement plug wire should be fairly easy to locate.  It seems like a lot of trouble to drill out the old ones when new plugs can be had in the $30 range though...

I know the replacements from mikesxs are fairly common, though a small bracket will need to be fabricated in order to get them to fit the stock mounts.

If new plug caps/cable don't do the trick... I'll look at replacing  the coils with modern replacements.

Wasnt' aware of mikesxs. (My other bike is a Harley... I'm just sticking my toe into vintage Japanese bikes a of this past tuesday. I'm decent with a wrench but need to learn a bit about the older bikes... I'm used to fuel injected V-twins. So I've got to learn where the good resources are too. That's why I'm here asking questions.)

I take it that http://www.mikesxs.net/product/17-6805.html is the right coil (4 Ohm) if I decide to go that route... ?

[Sonreir]

That's the one!

[3DogNate]

Well hell, I redid the cable on the left coil... Seems to be working well. I was able to set the timing. So thats good ... But... I checked to see how much gas was left in the tank. Since I had no idea having just bought the bike. Good news is that the inside of the tank is pristine clean... Bad news is that the gas cap latch broke when closing the lid... Grrrrr....



Anybody got a dinged up cb tank they can snag a latch off of for me? Happy to pay... PM me

I'd rather not have to resort to one of the keyed latches.

[3DogNate]

Ok... Since I verified that I have a running motor and transmission... I have began tear down (after attending a wine fest... Yikes.)

This this is soooo tiny compared to the Harley... Should be a blast to flip around twisties when finished.







That's the parts motor... I'll probably end up using the case and covers from it when I tear the motor down for a once over.




More to do... Hot out today... Need beer...

[3DogNate]

Got the rear wheel off, just ran to Menards for a 23mm socket to pull the swing arm off. If I feel like it after dinner I'll go pull the swing arm.



Motor is gonna come out next. Looks yucky in there...

[3DogNate]

Got more tear down completed today.






Evidently I have a salvage motor... 9,800 miles when changed. (whenever that was)


The bare frame after a hose and soapy scrub.


My pile-o-parts.



Now... Should I start on frame and body? Or start on the motor? Or work between the two as my attention span drifts?

[3DogNate]

Got the majority of the de tabbing and grinding on the frame done after work today.





Do I shorten the hoop a bit and weld that sucker in? I don't really want it too stubby. Does 2" off sound about right?

[3DogNate]

While I'm waiting on some parts to arrive... I thought I would start on the tank and get it straight. Looking good so far... the tank had a couple of smallish dents and I'm losing the badges. I need to sand the tunnel down well and get this thing in primer/glaze/sealer and on the shelf to wait until the rest is ready for paint... I think I have a sweet paint job cooked up. I've got a welder and bending brake on loan from some friends coming... I'll get onto fabricating the sheet metal trays for under the seat and a battery box for under the bump. Still need to decide what to do with the hoop...

[3DogNate]

There, that's more better, the major fill work is done...  next a coat of glaze, block with 400, prime, block with 600 and seal. I did get to try out my homemade soda blaster and it did a fantastic job cleaning up the crud around the fill neck and the light rust on the tunnel... should have no rust issues on this  tank, ever...

[3DogNate]

Carbs straight off the bike...


After a quick soda blast... To clean the funk off before sending them Crazypj for fixin' up



(Update: CrazyPJ has my carbs... sent me pics... they are quite "EW"  he's gonna fix 'em  up for me though.