1965 Honda C100 Cub (Watch me strip!!! XXX S*X!!!)

[Rocan]

What can I say... I have wanted one of these for years, and it is so dang pretty that even my mother, angry as she is, had to crack a smile at it when I rolled it out of my dads truck. It's been garaged for the past 20 years, and at first I was planning on restoring it and selling it on, but I don't think I'll be able to. 5000 miles, original everything. The motor turns over and should run fabulously, there is very little surface rust.

It needs a new seat, sidecovers, and exhaust pipe, but that is about it. also, the paint is brushed on and junk, but it should come off easily. The springs need replacing, but what old hondas dont? Oh... and the price? 325 dollars. I've been so happy that i've been jumping around the house screaming YEAHHHH!!! ... hopefully my neighbors didn't catch me in my backyard whispering "it's okay, I'll take care of you from now on you poor soul" while stroking the seat softly.

[Rocan]

Houston, we have ignition! Stunning how good of a condition this bike is in underneath all the grime. So I got excited, and moved on to step 2... fuel...

Houston, we have a problem...

Poured in some fuel in my excitement, and it quickly poured out all over the floor. Woops, forgot to check the fuel line. As I should have expected, it crumbled to pieces in my hands as i tried to block off the flow. You guys should see the carb on this bike... it's so cute, not much bigger than a large highlighter... hehe. After cleaning all the fuel off the floor it was time for some dinner, so I covered it up and left it aside for now.

Soon after, a magical thing happened. My mother came out and started trying to remove the paint form the plastic after doing some research herself on what is best. To say the least, it was pretty awesome. Seems the bike is antique enough for my mom to take an interest... mwahaha

[crazypj]

Probably a 10 or 12mm downdraft on it?

[BarnBurner]

Awesome score.  I recently had to get rid of my '80 Cub (C70) for financial reasons and I've regretted it ever since. They are a blast to ride and if you can find an optional basket they can fit a six pack perfectly!


Grocery Getter by RStutzman, on Flickr

[Rocan]

Probably a 10 or 12mm downdraft on it?

It's a keihin downdraft... not sure of the size, but around there...

[The_Beave]

I have to wonder WTF I am going to end up doing with this one . . . heh

It looks cool, though. :p

[Rocan]

I have to wonder WTF I am going to end up doing with this one . . . heh

It looks cool, though. :p

Sorry buddy, shes staying stock xP

no fun welding to do far as I can tell.

[Rocan]

anyone know why the speedo will be reading 20+mph at a walking pace? It definitely needs to have the cable regreased and checked, but I still can't understand how that would make the speedo read so high.

Or maybe I just walk WAY faster then I ever realized. Olympics, here I come.

[crazypj]

The magnet and alloy cup inside speedo are either distorted or corroded.
 The return spring may also be broken?
Only way to find out is dismantle it

[cafecustom720]

These things are so awesome. Can't wait to see where you go with it.

[Rocan]

The magnet and alloy cup inside speedo are either distorted or corroded.
 The return spring may also be broken?
Only way to find out is dismantle it

Woohoo! dismantling things is fun.

These things are so awesome. Can't wait to see where you go with it.

going to be as close to original as possible.


One thing throwing me off is that it should have provisions for winkers (turn signals), seeing as how the frame has mounts in the rear and the front has the winkers mounted (though haven't checked if they are currently wired)... However, no turn signal relay to be found or turn signal switch on right hand grip.


Sold some computer monitors I had found in the trash a while ago and spent the money on some side covers, turn signal set, cush drive for the rear (NOS at a good price and I figured they should be replaced while I'm in there), air filter with a new housing, and a battery latch as the old one had rusted through and broken.




Total Money into this so far, Including shipping Costs: 
BIKE:    $325.00
PARTS:  $99.73

Theres a couple hundred dollars worth of parts that she'll need to be perfect, but I'm trying to save where I can...

The following parts will seriously eat into the cost of this project, but are fundamental to having the bike be in top condition:

New Exhaust: $80 + $60 shipping. If anyone has one laying around thats mint, or a way that I can close the tiny little hole in mine and then re-chrome that bit for less than this price, please let me know as i'd like to save as much as possible on this restoration while still keeping it top notch.

Rear shocks: $36 + $35 shipping. Surely, there has to be a way to rebuild these for less? I have yet to pull them apart to take a closer look.

Seat: $36 + $55 shipping. Anyone have one thats not torn at the rear and preferably white? Or has anyone tried the covers on ebay, and have a good review on them? they are a lot cheaper at less than 30 dollars, shipping included.

[crazypj]

rear shocks, pull down top cover, loosen  lock nut, unscrew top - easy peasy 
 bite the bullet on exhaust, they are real thin tin and real hard to weld up
 

[hillsy]

Don't make the same mistake twice - get this thing running and evaluate the motor BEFORE you either spend more money on it or turn it into a pile of parts.

[Rocan]

Don't make the same mistake twice - get this thing running and evaluate the motor BEFORE you either spend more money on it or turn it into a pile of parts.

I've learned my lesson. The 350 was running great and was perfect; it's my ambition which made it into such a huge project. This has not ran yet, but there is no physical reason why it won't. It has compression, it has spark, and soon as I get a fuel line it should have fuel. worst case scenario I'll need to rebuild the carb to get it going, and I expect a seal or two to spring a leak so I have a gasket set on standby if it needs it. I'm going to get it running perfectly mechanically bit by bit (starting with the major issues first and knocking out the glitches one by one), and then once that is all set I'll tear it down and send it off for paint in one shot. not much is needed to take this down to its frame so it should be a quick enough process at that point.

rear shocks, pull down top cover, loosen  lock nut, unscrew top - easy peasy 
 bite the bullet on exhaust, they are real thin tin and real hard to weld up
 

good tip on the exhaust... I figured that would be the case. as for the rear shocks, I could have guessed that much, but was not sure what parts I would need to successfully rebuild them.  seems there are some bushings on the top and bottom? should I attempt to drill and tap a hole in order to swap the damper oil out?

[crazypj]

DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN DAMPER