CB/CL/CJ 360 Cam Chain Guide Aftermarket Pre Order

I'm just wondering.....Is there anyone on here going to be absolutely screwed on their build without a tensioner and/or guide?
 
Get on ebay and get looking. They show up time to time. I have a spare set from there, the before recall blades work as long as you keep up with the maintenance.
 
:)Ebay is real slow right now and I paid for one set from Legendary. I bought out cs1729. Too bad it will not happen. I really need them to get this 76 CB360t running in the DR. Can anyone part with the parts?
 
What type of CNC is needed?(3 axis, 5 axis, etc?)
There must be someone who isn't fully utilising theirs and could 'do a deal'
The program is already done, material is bought, it's just a case of finding machine?
I know friend of mine has a 3 axis CNC that is virtually unused, he has to pay someone to come in and use it though (builds custom cars, it seemed like a good idea at the time - before 'crash')
I'll call round and see him next week, only problem, I'm in Florida and 'stuff' is in Canada, logistics don't look good
 
I think I've figured it out!! I'm gonna work on it over the next few days. Will have to get program rewritten if it prototype looks durable enough for testing.

A guy bought all my 360's. If it works does anyone want to be my lab rat at their own risk? lol.
 
I would as I have 2 motors in pieces at present, but, I won't be able to do anything for at least 3 months and possibly 6+ months after surgery on 19th June :(
If they don't get done until after then, I'm game, haven't 'blown' a motor for a few years ;D
 
Lol. Alright. I think they'll actually be done pretty soon. I was just working on it today and almost completed a prototype. I used one of the few plastic guides I made and modified it. Gotta stop for today though. My forearm is killing me. I've been sanding down parts holding up an oribatal sanding all day every day for a week on the basket cb750 I just got and my brachioradialis is all seized up and screaming at me. I can barely lift my arm! LOL. Oh the things we do to make wicked bikes eh?

Pretty sure the new design is going to work well. Doubt blowing motors will happen but....never know. Give it a few days and I'll post some pics of what I've come up with. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. I even have a powdercoater in my basement so I'll be doing the guides in high heat black just like the factory ones. lol. Wait isn't that what you do for a living pj or am I thinking someone else?
 
Dave,

In the first post, you posted pictures of the guides. The ones shown were the "early" versions from the sample shown with the curled ring n the front. I am sorry I just noticed this. They may not work properly on the recalled (most of the CB260's and all 1976's) That have the curl in the other direction.

Before you make too many, you may want to verify they will work on the recalled models....

oldtensionercb550tensio.jpg


The new version (Most common now) is the one on the bottom of the picture.

The brackets are different too, so the old style probably won't work well with the new style bracket, as the tension may not be enough...
 
Ok. Glad to hear it. I worried that you did all that work.


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Any chance I could get a set of the CB360 cam chain tensioners? Not sure if it ended up being a go or not on the idea. If so, I would love to buy a set from you as I am needing it to complete my rebuild of my '76 cb360.
Please let me know and I can send you the money asap!
Thank you for your time
 
If someone can get me a simple 2d cad file and a thickness dimension and type of material I can machine jigs and get the proper set up to produce them.
 
I would love to help someone manufacture these by helping with the jigging process to make sure they are being machined properly.
 
If anyone is interested. I have been experimenting with a new way to make the guides. Extremely busy though and looking for someone to take over.

What I do is CNC the plastic piece out of high temp plastic. It's called TIVAR HOT. I have a 10x4 foot sheet of it. It's 1 inch thick. It's good for up to 400 degrees normal operating temp and it extremely slippery so wears slowly!

Then I make a separate piece of steel to reinforce the plastic. Make it exactly like the factory piece. I've been using the curve on a pair of needle nose pliers and a vice to make the loops but should try to find a better way.

After those 2 parts are made I drill 2 small countersink holes through the front of the plastic for screws (on the upper and lower areas where plastic is thick). Then drill 2 smaller guide holes in the centre of the same holes. Line the plastic up with the metal backing and mark the holes onto the metal backing. Drill the holes in the metal backing.

Now on the back of the plastic part take a grinder or dremel, etc and cut a shallow groove down the centre. Rougher the better but not too deep.
Take the same grinder/dremel and rough up the face of the metal part. This process is so you can use high temp gasket adhesive between the two parts and it should stick between the roughed surfaces. And if it doesn't stick to the TIVAR then it will at least minimize side play.

Clean up the metal part with sandpaper and make it smooth. It's going in the motor so you don't want any shavings coming off.

Now put high temp sealer on parts screw the TIVAR to the metal with metal screws. Make sure they counter sink (later you fill the holes with high temp sealer). On the back grind off screws flush with metal and tack weld the screws to the metal so there's a lot less risk of them wearing loose and coming out into the motor!

Clean up the weld spots so no shavings/flux will fall off. Fill screw holes on face with high temp sealer. Clamp it tightly and let it dry overnight.

Hopefully that's the new solution to making slippers, guides, tensioners. Have fun.
 
I would give my left nut for this part right now.

I have a 74 360 fully restored but I do need this one part.

Any updates? Do you think you will be selling this part anytime in the near future?
 
Dave Walters said:
As a machinist it is all about setup to cut down on chatter when machining plastics.

I personally run a cnc retrofitted bridgeport and might look into making a set. I can write programs and such.
Also other plastic materials would be good to look into. Something that is slick but wear resistant.

I will talk with my father (plastics guru. ran a molding company for years.) about material type once I have my cb 360 guides pulled.

Might give some insight as to material selection....http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=292501
 
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