Nothing better than a box of parts! I just ordered rearsets from Durgam_K! So stoked!
At first glance your wiring diagram looks pretty good, except you are missing the brake light switch for the front brake. Since your braking should be done mostly with your front brake this is pretty important.
The factory marks NEED to be lined up for proper shoe adjustment so both shoes apply pressure to drum evenly and simultaneously.
Thanks Trek -I really like the look of drum brake housings. Just so mechanical in form and function.
I understand the whole weight thing. But, Why on earth would you want to kickstart your bike? If I had to kick her every time, (especially while trouble shooting) this whole motorcycle thing would be a lot less fun. To me, the extra 10lbs + or - is worth it.
On the rear wheel I stuck a couple drill bits in the holes of the collar, and used a short piece o pipe to turn it out.. . if you get me some good pics of the actual procedures...I would be delighted to post em on my blog.
Comes off clean and easy. I wonder if I can use that 38 year old grease that's in the bearing? Probably not.Mike
TO be truthful, I've not even changed the bearings in my 360. It had 24k miles on it when I got it, has over 30k now. The wheels spin smoothly with no noise and the hubs stay cool. Mater of fact I've done lots of bearings in my life that got cleaned and repacked just because a manual said it was time, regardless of how many miles they had on them. (Uncle SAM told me to) As long as the SEALS are good there is no real reason to mess with them. Once the seals start leaking then they will go out because the grease will leak out.