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Author Topic: New DTT member 360T build  (Read 31801 times)

Offline japstar

  • Posts: 125
Re: New DTT member 360T build
« Reply #140 on: Jun 15, 2016, 03:59:45 »
Exhaust leak???

From some searching that seems to be likely, can it do damage if I ride it?

I see some exhaust gases escape from the engine/header intersection every once and a while, but why all of a sudden the noise...
exhaust leak won't do much damage. Been riding around for three weeks right now, still got to weld it shut.
Inspect for black carbon deposit spots on the exhaust or areas close to it. In the neighbourhood of the hole you should see a black spot if you've driven it around for a while.
GPZ550 cafe racer http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=69514.0

It ain't about showing up on a bike that the loan officer at your bank, or your parent's inheritance bought for you. It's about skinning your knuckles, straining your back, developing some blisters on your hands, breathing varsol and paint fumes,taking measurements and making mistakes.
It's about standing back, after the dust settles, and being able to say when people ask, "I BUILT it!"

Offline kagraves

  • Posts: 152
    • Kyle Graves Portfolio
Re: New DTT member 360T build
« Reply #141 on: Jun 26, 2016, 14:29:15 »
So the exhaust leak was old exhaust gaskets, I bought new ones and replaced them. The engine still seems to have a weird ticking going on. It's not the valve gaps or cam chain, so I've been playing with the timing and trying to do it dynamically. The timing at idle is spot on, but the advance marks aren't lining up till around 5500rmp if I I remember correctly.

I also noticed some smoke out of my left exhaust when I rev from idle, I don't think I ever checked my float heights and when I cleaned my carbs up so I may check the heights to make sure they are in spec. The left plug has always been a little richer than the right. I know people said the stock heights were wrong and had a better setting but I can't find that link for the adjustment.

I also replaced my gauge lights and idiot lights with the ba9 leds from superbrightled.com, they are a great upgrade and use a lot less power for my charging system. And I installed the h4 conversion headlight from common motor to help see where I'm going. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-classic-car-bulb/4/

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 13467
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: New DTT member 360T build
« Reply #142 on: Jun 27, 2016, 13:20:27 »
Sounds pretty normal to me.
 Valves may be a little tiny bit loose but not too bad
Cam chain sounds fine
Setting left side can be difficult because magnets in generator and srings on right side valve are trying to turn motor further than TDCC
I use a 14mm box end on rotor bolt jammed onto footrest or gearchange, others use a socket and long bar onto floor or frame
One other major advantage with LED 'bulbs', vibration doesn't affect them  8)
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline kagraves

  • Posts: 152
    • Kyle Graves Portfolio
Re: New DTT member 360T build
« Reply #143 on: Jun 27, 2016, 14:25:07 »
So last night I checked the valves and did them so that there was a little more resistance on the feeler guage without going too tight, so I'll stop panicking about the valves.

Does anyone know if I should have the timing mark line up with the advance marks at any specific rpm?

And what do you guys recommend for float height settings? I've been seeing anything from 14-20mm, and I'm running all stock filters and exhaust. One plug tends to be more rich than the other so I'll start with adjusting to the level of the better side.

Thanks again everyone!
« Last Edit: Jun 27, 2016, 15:12:13 by kagraves »

Offline advCo

  • DTT BOTM WINNER
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  • Posts: 3224
  • Nick Ol' Eye
    • adventur Studios
Re: New DTT member 360T build
« Reply #144 on: Jun 28, 2016, 00:20:40 »
I think mine are at 18mm on the 360. A good way to do valves is to set them using the feeler gauge 1 thou up from what you need, and set it a bit on the tight side. So if your intake calls for .002, set it at a fairly tight .003, check it again with the .002 and it should be good. Either way works but I thought this was an interesting method when I heard about it and it worked out for me the last time I did the valves.

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 13467
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: New DTT member 360T build
« Reply #145 on: Jun 29, 2016, 02:54:43 »
I used to teach people the 'go-no go' method.
Use a 0.002" feeler for intake, it should slide in relatively easy.
Try a 0.003" feeler, it shouldn't go in at all
Use the 0.003" on exhaust, 0.004" won't go
Simple and more than accurate enough.
 Eventually you get 'the feel' and don't need go, no-go (although it's handy to check if you haven't done a valve adjust for a year or two)
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline kagraves

  • Posts: 152
    • Kyle Graves Portfolio
Re: New DTT member 360T build
« Reply #146 on: Jul 28, 2016, 13:26:23 »
so the bikes been running great for the past few weeks as my daily commuter and as my weekend warrior. but yesterday I noticed some popping from the right exhaust almost like its misfiring... and it seemed to be running a bit rich at idle. Got it home and today went to check the valve clearances and cam chain. They were good. started the bike up and its still popping and now, with the valve caps off I hear what sounds like somethings bouncing around the camchaft... and the engine is making a weird noise around 3.5 - 4k rmp. I'm scared to ride it or even rev it above 4k. any thoughts??

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 13467
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: New DTT member 360T build
« Reply #147 on: Jul 28, 2016, 14:17:16 »
All the locknuts are on adjuster screws?
 May be a good idea to pull rocker cover and take a look at the cam sprocket bolts?
 Check it isn't the advancer rattling first though
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline kagraves

  • Posts: 152
    • Kyle Graves Portfolio
Re: New DTT member 360T build
« Reply #148 on: Jul 29, 2016, 00:08:41 »
Advancer seemed to be all good, lock nuts were all snug with proper gaps. Took the cover off and everything seemed to be good, chain tensioners still intact and in proper position. All boots were snug even though I thought the bolts holding the cam gear was going to be the cause of the problems. Cleaned everything up and re installed it. I'll going to go over the point gaps tomorrow. And the valves even though they shouldn't be different. Going to re set the timing and then start her up to see if there's any change.

I hope so as I am taking the bike back to my alma mater on Sunday and will be teaching high schoolers about graphic and industrial design for the next 2 weeks. The 360 is still my only mode of transportation, which I love! don't get me wrong but she likes to act up every once and a while.

Offline kagraves

  • Posts: 152
    • Kyle Graves Portfolio
Re: New DTT member 360T build
« Reply #149 on: Jul 30, 2016, 11:54:06 »
got the bike running, but the left cylinder it's not firing at all. I checked and have fuel and air but no spark. I have power at the points and they are gapped and timed correct. I'm checking the coils have 5ohms on primary, and 14k for secondary. I'm getting 12v from the plug wire and grounding on the engine. Tried new plus and the ones that were working on the right cylinder and still not getting spark.

Can't find any shorts in the wiring.don't know where to go from here.
« Last Edit: Jul 30, 2016, 13:12:33 by kagraves »