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When the brake was applied with a loose axle nut the right side (as sitting on bike ) the wheel axle backed away from the bolt notch on the adjuster. Sounds like a snail adjuster would be the way to go once you find a spot to mount pin.
Texasstar said:
What I don't understand is the brake stay has no pressure on it but the one at the rear backed off from where it was tightened up against the end of the thread and where the stay is allowed to pivot. If the rear axel was loose then where did the front stay bolt go? The rear adjustment screw was bent on the right rear to 90 degrees...It felt like I lost a shock and the rear got loose...
The tolerance is -1 volt from battery voltage when the magnet is aimed away from the trigger and it checked out to be the same voltage as the battery when the magnet was pointed to the trigger. The gap should be .025-.040" between the magnet and module. We disconnected all grounds except for the one going to the dyna plate.
I would hook up a voltmeter to the battery and record the voltage drop per time over rpm when the coil is working. Being you have a total lose setup. That data is critical. Gas/ check.... Storage of electrons can be just as vital ...]voltage and amps are two different animals.
I would hook up a voltmeter to the battery and record the voltage drop per time over rpm when the coil is working. Being you have a total lose setup. That data is critical. Gas/ check.... Storage of electrons can be just as vital.
The A:F on all runs starts rich and goes progressively leaner. On the Blue run A:F doesn't tell us much because it's missing and that much of a miss means the semi burned mixture is all wrong and misleading.
Is that the change in timing or carbs or did that just start between runs with no other changes?
What timing are you now running at full advance?
Did you try running it up with a fresh battery or jumper cables yet to see if that made any difference.
I would try that before you get into jetting changes. You will want smaller air jets though at some time.
Put the points back in for testing, the positive switching will eliminate any possibility Dyna isn't working right (personally I wouldn't trust Dyna since Brendon's failed on 360)
It's most likely your running severely rich, the colder plugs seem to verify it.
I'm pretty sure your going to need further carb mods
Shimming cam won't really make a lot of difference with Dyna, it doesn't float far enough to get rockers 'tangled' Saying that, it would be a good idea to shit it so rockers are central on cam lobes
but the can still should be shimmed down to minimum spec
but the points wont be troubled much by the floating cam,but still the cam will be getting better oil without the xtra sied clearance
With hardened washers.
You could use ordinary steel washers as they will still be harder than the side of the head but ordinary washers probably won't be available in correct thickness and may break if ground too thin
camshafet endplay put your dial indicator on the end on the cam and a pair of vise grips on the end bolt and yank it back and forth
it looks like you have waaaayyyy too much
measure the endplay first, you can use thinner gaskets or eliminate the gasket with loctite 518 or shim it or machine some off the end housing gasket surface
shimming it is the honda way the others will work as well
ok hold on a second...it is the rotor that has the play not the cam..I can move the rotor and the advance mechanism .050 mm http://youtu.be/A0h8Kmg8MrQ
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