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Author Topic: TX500 build  (Read 118430 times)

Offline LL

  • Posts: 126
Re: TX500 build
« Reply #50 on: Nov 07, 2008, 00:18:14 »
Man I wish I had been able to see your post about not using primer w/ the epoxy before painting yesterday. I know it says so on the can but I figured that was for painting over existing paint. Oh well, we'll see how hard it is in a week. How long would you wait to wet sand?

Next time for the epoxy I would look into getting an aftermarket nozzle and wearing some gloves. I had to clean the nozzle more often compared to other enamels and after a combined 3 hrs of priming and many coats of epoxy my pointer finger felt like it was going to fall off and is still a little numb today. And although it goes on thick that epoxy paint will really carry all over - especially for thin items like frames where you'll have a ton of overspray. So keep in mind that if you paint in your garage everything in the garage is going to get hit.


Offline JRK5892

  • Posts: 9755
    • The Powder Pro
Re: TX500 build
« Reply #51 on: Nov 07, 2008, 05:09:04 »
very true about the over spray! very very true... i would wait at least 7 days to wet sand... man i would not worry about the primer... you should be just fine! just let it set up real well... i use 2000 grit that soaked in water... wait till you see how well it wet sands!
Joe
"your life is an occasion, Stand up to it"
www.thepowderpro.com

recent builds: Hd street bob, TX cafe, KZ bratt, Goldwing tour, bratt wing, st fighter, road king, vriago bobber, chop, FXD, 1200 sporty, 1200xl sporty, GSXR, Royal enfield.. and more

Offline kneedragger

  • Posts: 136
Re: TX500 build
« Reply #52 on: Nov 07, 2008, 07:23:34 »
With the appliance paint....do you sand after waiting a week and before applying the successive coats?

In other words, is it sand, light coat, wait week, sand, light coat, wait week, sand, light coat...etc?

or just sand, light coat, wait week, light coat, wait week?
Just to clarify this a bit, I think that the best way to get good results from this epoxy paint is to spray a LIGHT coat over your part, then wait about five minutes for the aromatics in the paint to flash off a bit, then spray a SECOND light coat, and try to cover the areas you missed with the first light coat. Again, wait five minutes, then follow with a THIRD light coat, then wait five minutes, spray ANOTHER light coat, and so on...

Painting your components with that method allows you to gradually build up to full coverage in one day; each light coat you apply will help you to get full coverage. Professional autobody painters I've spoken to also refer to it as a "mist" coat, or a "fog" coat; regardless of the terminology used, the point is that you apply the paint in several stages within about thirty minute time frame, so that you've got complete coverage in those 30 minutes. After that amount of time has passed, you allow the paint to dry for a week (or longer), then add more light coats ONLY if you have any thin spots that still need to be covered.

NOTE: You will ONLY have to wet-sand the ORIGINAL paint with 400 grit paper to give the NEW epoxy paint a surface to stick to; AFTER you've let the NEW paint dry for a week, you wet-sand it again ONLY if you have any flaws that need to be removed, such as sags, drips, runs, dirt, or bugs in the paint, or whatever it might be that screwed up your results. You'll ALSO have to wet-sand it again if you need to apply MORE paint to cover any thin spots that were missed the first time, or to cover the areas where you've re-sanded to remove the flaws (sags, drips, runs, etc.)

Whenever I wet-sand a painted surface, I add a few drops of household dish soap to the water, which helps to keep the paint from loading up on the sandpaper. In fact, I usually put a few drops of the soap directly onto the sandpaper itself, especially whenever I feel the paper beginning to "load up" with paint; you'll feel the paper begin to drag slightly across the surface of the object you're sanding when the paint begins to build up on the sandpaper, which tells you that it's time to clean / rinse the paper again, and check it for paint buildup. If the buildup is minor, I just wipe the paint off with my finger, then resume sanding; if the paper is wearing out, I switch to a fresh sheet, put a few drops of dishsoap onto the paper, then continue sanding. I sand large / long parts in a (rubber / plastic) 55 gallon trash barrel that I bought at Lowe's specifically for sanding large parts; it is sturdy enough to hold a lot of water without buckling; I sand smaller parts in a (rubber / plastic) dishpan I got at the local supermarket. Obviously, those containers are ONLY used for wet-sanding; I don't put any oil / solvent into them, because I don't want residual chemicals to contaminate things I'm going to paint.

One good bit of advice I can give you is this: ALWAYS USE A SANDING BLOCK, without exception; if you sand without one, your fingers will put uneven pressure on the paper, and you'll actually be sanding grooves into the surface you're working on. I prefer to keep several sheets of sandpaper soaking in a container of clean water, so I can switch to a fresh sheet of sandpaper quickly. Be CAREFUL when you sand corners, curves, edges, or ANY area where the surface isn't perfectly flat. It's VERY easy to break through the surface paint in those areas, because the paint tends to be thinner there. Keep in mind that when you wet-sand, you only want to prepare the surface to accept new paint (or primer) on top of it; you're ONLY giving the surface "tooth", which helps the new paint or primer to adhere better. You're NOT trying to REMOVE the original coating completely; you're just making it easier for the new paint to stick to the old coating.

OK, I've probably beaten this horse to death by now, but I only want to make sure that you understand how to get good results when you use spraybombs. I ONLY use spray paint; I don't have a compressor, or a paint gun, I don't have access to a spray booth... hell, I don't even have a damn GARAGE to work in, just a crappy carport, so I've had to learn how to get good results with spray cans under less than optimal conditions... so I'm hoping that this helps you to get the results YOU want, without a lot of headaches in the process... if you keep these points in mind as you work, maybe you'll be able to avoid some of the problems I've encountered over the years...

Of course, I'm hoping that JRK / Joe will correct me if I have any of this wrong; I've done a fair amount of spray-bombing over the last thirty years, so I have a good idea on how to accomplish this, but I'm NOT claiming to be an expert.

Good luck; if any of this isn't clear to you, ask any questions you might have, and we'll try to help you figure it out.

Offline Swagger

  • DTT SUPPORTER
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  • Posts: 5513
  • Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Re: TX500 build
« Reply #53 on: Nov 07, 2008, 13:46:45 »
sorry for the highjack: Kneeslider, are you the same cat from thekneeslider.com? Just wondering.....

Just found a good source locally for that paint, thanks for the heads up on it JRK5892, how much do you pay for it normally? Looks like I can get it for US$4.80 a can if I buy a flat of 12 at a time. The distributor will mix and match for me too. I can also buy is in quarts and 1/2gallon cans too but I didn't look to far into that, my spray stuff is pretty rudimentary....
.....there's no way that little rice cooker is going 100m/h when the work need to get up to those speeds includes a big fuck off fairing shaped like a giant cock. ~Staffy

Weiner tetanus is nothing to scoff at. ~JustinLonghorn

Offline kneedragger

  • Posts: 136
Re: TX500 build
« Reply #54 on: Nov 07, 2008, 14:40:56 »
sorry for the highjack: Kneeslider, are you the same cat from thekneeslider.com? Just wondering.....

Just found a good source locally for that paint, thanks for the heads up on it JRK5892, how much do you pay for it normally? Looks like I can get it for US$4.80 a can if I buy a flat of 12 at a time. The distributor will mix and match for me too. I can also buy is in quarts and 1/2gallon cans too but I didn't look to far into that, my spray stuff is pretty rudimentary....
Hopefully, JRK5892 won't mind if we continue the threadjacking just a bit longer...

To answer Swagger's question, my nickname comes from riding with friends in the Colorado Rockies (mostly within the area just west of Boulder / Denver , to the areas around Nederland and Idaho Springs / Mt. Evans) more than 25 years ago. I mostly sucked at hanging off, which is why my nickname is kneeDRAGGER, not kneeSLIDER... never saw that website before, so thanks for posting the link to it; some interesting stuff there...

We now return this thread to the control of the OP, JRK5892...

/threadjack

Offline Swagger

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  • Posts: 5513
  • Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Re: TX500 build
« Reply #55 on: Nov 07, 2008, 15:31:27 »
Hopefully, JRK5892 won't mind if we continue the threadjacking just a bit longer...

To answer Swagger's question, my nickname comes from riding with friends in the Colorado Rockies (mostly within the area just west of Boulder / Denver , to the areas around Nederland and Idaho Springs / Mt. Evans) more than 25 years ago. I mostly sucked at hanging off, which is why my nickname is kneeDRAGGER, not kneeSLIDER... never saw that website before, so thanks for posting the link to it; some interesting stuff there...

We now return this thread to the control of the OP, JRK5892...

/threadjack

HAHAH!! Holy crap...I gotta lay off the cold medicine, sorry for the mix-up!
.....there's no way that little rice cooker is going 100m/h when the work need to get up to those speeds includes a big fuck off fairing shaped like a giant cock. ~Staffy

Weiner tetanus is nothing to scoff at. ~JustinLonghorn

Offline JRK5892

  • Posts: 9755
    • The Powder Pro
Re: TX500 build
« Reply #56 on: Nov 08, 2008, 13:18:50 »
its cool guys i dont care...

well... did alot on the garage this weekend... got a new air compressor... ran all my hoses in the ceiling so i have pull down air tools now... i was doing a bunch of powder coat for a buddies rocket so i figured WHY NOT... i did my risers and tripple trees as well for my TX... ill get those pics later...
my tank is done and dry... still need to add the accent color... maybe... i kind of like it all white... may just hit it with the company logo on the sides and be done with it... we will have to see...
here is a pic, tons of bondo work, painted white epoxy, wet sanded... a week later shot again... no clear... have not even buffed it yet... this is just painted (side covers look money too!!!) *ill get pics of all the powdercoating i did to the risers and trees today... just your basic gloss white*


also the little brother and i took a scoot! COLD man COLD... put the shield on the bob... going to drop the apes as well and put on some flat track bars... with the apes the cold just goes right down my jacket sleeves... past few years i have just delt with but now it is time to make some changes for witner... my apes are internally wired of course so i am going to make quick release plugs so i can just unplug the apes, plug in the flat tracker bars, and slap on the levers... done! the chop we did for my brother is int he back round... SICK, not my style BUT SICK!


« Last Edit: Nov 08, 2008, 13:28:18 by JRK5892 »
Joe
"your life is an occasion, Stand up to it"
www.thepowderpro.com

recent builds: Hd street bob, TX cafe, KZ bratt, Goldwing tour, bratt wing, st fighter, road king, vriago bobber, chop, FXD, 1200 sporty, 1200xl sporty, GSXR, Royal enfield.. and more

Offline BigBSBusa

  • Posts: 1222
Re: TX500 build
« Reply #57 on: Nov 08, 2008, 13:48:19 »
Nice!
BigBS

1974 Honda CB550
1977 Yamaha XS750 - Project Maggie Mae
1994 Kawasaki Ninja ZX11 - Project Raven
1999 Suzuki TL1000R - Project Sable

Offline HerrDeacon

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  • Posts: 3615
Re: TX500 build
« Reply #58 on: Nov 08, 2008, 14:07:52 »
That tank looks awesome, nice work.
Perry

1972 Honda CB350 K4 / 1978 Honda XL250S /1982 Honda MB5 / 2014 Honda CB500X

Offline kneedragger

  • Posts: 136
Re: TX500 build
« Reply #59 on: Nov 08, 2008, 14:59:41 »
MORE PICS! MORE PICS! That white tank is slick, now show us MORE! Your photos make me crazy for MORE!