HURCO550 said:Also dimpled the main frame. Looks good and adds rigidity. Win win
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Thanks man! I have thought about something similar, but instead of full sheets, maybe some "x" braces in between the vertical ones. Just tacked up though this thing feels surprisingly rigid. I'll see how much more so once it's really welded up and I can do some redneck flex tests.XS750AU said:Absolutely fantastic original work.
The biggest single improvement you could make for rigidity in the structure is to close in the side plates. By that I mean weld a continuous metal strip down the top of the frame bridging from side plate to side plate. You obviously have access to CAD/CAM facilities if you could get access to some CAE modelling it would confirm that a closed in box section is the most efficient section at resisting bending.
Keep up the great work.
Ha, not even that. I'll have to look, I think maybe the wheel base and rake share dimensionsJSJamboree said:So whats left of the rupp? The forks?
Maritime said:All kinds of rad!
advCo said:Fan-freaking-tastic
Thanks!!SONIC. said:Yes sir.
Nicely done.
funny man, what you just wrote is my exact plans for the motor, plus I'll probably do a billet con rod while I'm at it. For now it's just a cone filter, jetted carb and pipe... because money, or lack there of lol once I get it together and going ill piece the hop up stuff together as funds become availableJSJamboree said:Looked back and realized that the roadster wasn't like the blackwidow or scrambler, yeah thats totally different. There is alot of power left in that motor to free up, almost to much. Pull the governor, get a billet flywheel (the stock one will explode at high RPM), tighter springs, cone filter, exhaust, and throw a mikuni on there so its manageable. The stock carb turns into an on/off switch at this point and its almost unrideable. I need to get mine out of the shed
HURCO550 said:funny man, what you just wrote is my exact plans for the motor, plus I'll probably do a billet con rod while I'm at it. For now it's just a cone filter, jetted carb and pipe... because money, or lack there of lol once I get it together and going ill piece the hop up stuff together as funds become available
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Yep, I have that saved on my watch list. I think iirc a Yamaha blaster carb is the same size mikuni, and van 2 be had for less coin yetJSJamboree said:I cant say enough what a difference the mikuni made. Here is the kit that I put on mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/22MM-MIKUNI-CARB-KIT-PREDATOR-212-GX200-GX160-HONDA-CLONE-Drift-Trike-Mini-Bik-/252314674798?hash=item3abf20666e:g:10wAAOSwYlJW4GEm&vxp=mtr
I have thought about something similar, but instead of full sheets, maybe some "x" braces in between the vertical ones.
XS750AU said:Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. Refer to the attached photo, the top section (red line) is in compression, meaning it is being pushed from both ends. The current structure is not good in compression, much better in tension (being pulled at the ends). Cross braces also work well in tension but not compression, so I would suggest a solid sheet welded along the red line is the best option, but if you wanted to make some cool cut outs down the middle of the sheet then go up a thickness or 2! The current structure will behave a bit like a house of cards, once it goes it will go quickly.
The orange line is of secondary concern, and would just stiffen up the headstem, so you could cut a few seconds off your lap times ;D. That area is in tension so cross braces would be OK.
Hope this helps.
Love what you have done so far.
Popeye SXM said:I love this project, but I agree, It could collapse, very quickly, say after a bump or two?