Author Topic: CB360 Frame Grinding  (Read 1456 times)

Offline oathamm

  • Posts: 73
CB360 Frame Grinding
« on: Oct 17, 2015, 10:57:45 »

First attempt at grinding and de-tabbing on my build, before I tore it down I'd marked parts for removal however I'm starting to second guess myself, I marked the tab circled below for removal but now I'm thinking this is the bracket for the rear brake switch. Can anyone help or confirm?


Offline frogman

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  • Posts: 1965
  • '74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
Re: CB360 Frame Grinding
« Reply #1 on: Oct 17, 2015, 11:11:08 »
Yes stock rear break switch holder.

Offline DohcBikes

  • Posts: 2376
  • Fuck You.
Re: CB360 Frame Grinding
« Reply #2 on: Oct 17, 2015, 11:11:31 »
Yes that is the brake switch mount. Will you be running rearsets or converting to disc in the rear? If so it will go bye bye anyway. If not, best to leave it for now.
burning bridges sometimes light the most productive paths

Offline oathamm

  • Posts: 73
Re: CB360 Frame Grinding
« Reply #3 on: Oct 17, 2015, 14:21:06 »
Cheers, good job I checked!
I've sanded with a 120 grit flap disc, is there anything I can use to get a smoother finish? Will wet 'n dry work?

Offline jpmobius

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  • Posts: 1229
  • where does this go?
Re: CB360 Frame Grinding
« Reply #4 on: Oct 17, 2015, 18:53:02 »
I use hand files as a final cutting tool - only way I know to get flawlessly straight tubes after grinding.  Then sandblast.  Epoxy primer.  Scotchbrite for sanding, then 2K urethane single stage.  You can add clear or powdercoat instead for a different look, but if there is a better appearance to be had I have never seen it - mostly a matter of preference I suppose.  As a rule, I use a welding process for any bodywork on frames and file things to shape, but am guilty of using glazing compound if I discover tiny defects once the primer is on.

On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build

Offline xb33bsa

  • Posts: 7726
Re: CB360 Frame Grinding
« Reply #5 on: Oct 17, 2015, 22:14:38 »
like mobius said to get it perfect you really need to leave some standing high proud material in the area and not try to grind it flush,it pretty much impossible to do it that way
 a good set of sharp, kept clean of chips,flat files rotating and following the curve of the tube,don't file lengthwiise ,will allow you to precisely get a flush blend with very little finish work
you can do the roughing with a bastard but the final blend needs to be with the file called a smooth flat
as a side golf balls make excellent file handles

Offline el barto

  • Posts: 326
Re: CB360 Frame Grinding
« Reply #6 on: Oct 18, 2015, 09:58:14 »
Agreed on NOT grinding length ways. V inconsistant.

Offline o1marc

  • Posts: 2240
    • Creative Candy Powder Coating
Re: CB360 Frame Grinding
« Reply #7 on: Oct 22, 2015, 22:56:28 »
I get it close with a grinder and then use a vibratory sander for final finish. Once blasted and coated you can't tell there was any modification.

Offline Tune-A-Fishİ

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  • Posts: 6844
  • BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Re: CB360 Frame Grinding
« Reply #8 on: Oct 23, 2015, 11:49:56 »
If you are going hydraulic, get the banjo brake switch it's the shiz.
"I didn't come here and I ain't leavin"  Willie Nelson

"love hard, live fast, die fun" Kacey Musgraves

"Like a Wreckin Ball!" Eric Church