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Author Topic: Custom Triple Trees - CB350/400/550/750/GL1000 - Other designs available  (Read 6654 times)

Offline slikwilli420

  • Posts: 191
Anyone who has seen my build has seen the custom triple trees that I made to accommodate the forks/brakes I wanted to use. I found it very difficult to find custom triple trees, both with regard to dimensions and style. The designs I have created thus far are shown below.

I will be offering CB750 clamps in the early and late offset, as well as GL1000 clamps. I am also willing to work with someone who needs something even more custom, like specific offset or spread. Custom offset/spread items will need to be designed for the customer specifically and will take additional time, but NOT additional cost. I can also offer trees for any other stock application but will need your trees dimensions (offset, spread, fork diameter and stem diameter).

I realize there are many options available for the vintage bike enthusiast, but I think there is room for low volume, high quality hand-made items.

This stuff is not coming off of a $100k CNC mill but rather is rough cut via waterjet, then hand finished. Each triple will come standard with stainless Allen hardware for the stem pinch (if included) and the fork pinch. Each will also be media blasted for a uniform finish ready for powder. The work involved in hand polishing these items is more than I am prepared for currently, but others on the forum offer polishing for very reasonable prices.

I am currently offering the designs you see listed for $175. The dimensions I have set up currently will fit the early/late SOHC CB750 and GL1000. If there are features from multiple trees you would like to combine, I am happy to work with you on that venture. They will be cut from 1” stock to match the originals in dimension. There will be an additional $15 added for 1.25” to make up for the added cost of material. Generally speaking, cost for the finished product will vary about $15 per 1/4" of material from the 1"/$175 stated here.

Options available to the buyer for no additional cost are:

Recessed or standard stem pinch (where applicable) and fork pinch bolts. I can also add a relief (about 1/4”) to the underside of the clamp where the spanner nut for the stem goes to help drop the tree a bit and hide some of the nut. Please note that some of these designs are such that the rear part of the nut (closest to the rider) will show from the back.

Regarding any question of risk on the buyers’ part, I will stand behind these items 100% in the even that something does not fit correctly. I will do my best to make it right and to make you a happy customer.

I welcome any and all questions or discussion regarding these items.

Below are the designs I have so far as well as some in various states of completion.

You can see more at the site I setup at MysteryCycles.weebly.com

Offline Tune-A-Fish©

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I need a lower GSXR clamp made to Busa top clamp offset, if I were to send the clamp/fork dia and the top clamp USPS what would it cost to do that one off? Bussa uses a fork leg with two sizes for top and bottom, stoopidest thing ever, but they have a nice top mount bar clamp so wtf's a guy to do.

Are you planning to make stems also or just clamps?
"I didn't come here and I ain't leavin"  Willie Nelson

"love hard, live fast, die fun" Kacey Musgraves

"Like a Wreckin Ball!" Eric Church

Offline slikwilli420

  • Posts: 191
Hey Tune-A, I just posted on your Kerker listing asking about the bolts.

As for a lower clamp, its all about the thickness of the material, assuming you don't go crazy with wanting a bunch of extra cuts and contouring. We can work on a design or I can copy the top. $175 for 1" material but I'm guessing the lowers are more like 1.5-2". Add $15 per 1/4" of thickness above 1". It may come out a bit cheaper than that but that's a very good approximation. Shoot me a PM.

Offline Tune-A-Fish©

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Oh hell, I was thinking 2.5" with gull wing contour, Tune-A-Fish engraving and speed holes for sure... $200?
"I didn't come here and I ain't leavin"  Willie Nelson

"love hard, live fast, die fun" Kacey Musgraves

"Like a Wreckin Ball!" Eric Church

Offline xb33bsa

  • Posts: 7726
those are dandy
i think 1-1/4 for bottoms would be plenty the key is stacked pinch bolts top and bottom
instead of the larger centered bolt
more efficent even clamping and your profiles of the bolt bosses could be slimmed a bit
if you are tapping n holes in the aluminum then a roll form tap is the way to go stronger thrreads no chips !
but lubrication and exact hole size is critical
65-75% thread is fine as long as you have more than 1.5 x the diameter in full theard depth engagemment
what are you using to final size/make round and axially align  the clamp bores ?
a sunnen kingpin hone lash with them stacked together sure would do nicely

« Last Edit: Mar 10, 2016, 01:46:27 by xb33bsa »

Offline slikwilli420

  • Posts: 191
Thanks XB! I agree that stacking pinch bolts would be most ideal, and it can be done with 1" material, provided M6 bolts are used. I have found that a single M8 will clamp extremely tightly as well so I don't worry too much about that. Thicker lowers would allow for something like double M8 pinch bolts since they tend to be thicker than uppers so that is doable.

Regarding threads, although not roll formed, cut threads in 6061 will still be extremely strong, and no doubt much stronger than any internal threads cut into a stock piece, which are almost always cast, especially with older bikes. I did look at roll form taps, but it sounds like extreme precision and car is needed with when forming threads this way.

To final bore the fork and stem holes, I am simply using an adjustable boring head, nothing fancy. As long as the mill head is trammed in properly, there isn't worry of boring the holes crooked. These holes are typically 0.003-0.010 bigger than the fork tubes so as long as the boring head will replicate that, there is no need for other equipment. I did look into adjustable reamers but have not had any experience with them so I cannot comment on their usefulness in my application.

Offline Tune-A-Fish©

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I wonder if the tool supply has roll form tools that come with undercut taps like the Time Sert kits... with those you have double process by cutting the thread then roll form to add strength and it eases the sharp edges??
"I didn't come here and I ain't leavin"  Willie Nelson

"love hard, live fast, die fun" Kacey Musgraves

"Like a Wreckin Ball!" Eric Church

Offline slikwilli420

  • Posts: 191
But is all that extra effort really worth it? Cut threads in a material that is much stronger than cast aluminum should present no issues.

Offline Tune-A-Fish©

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No, most likely not. The only reason you would benefit is if it were a race application where the bolts would see 100's of tear down and reassembly's, the techs know not to use cordless stuff during the assembly, but it happens anyways and even a heavy hand on a T bar can shred thread.
"I didn't come here and I ain't leavin"  Willie Nelson

"love hard, live fast, die fun" Kacey Musgraves

"Like a Wreckin Ball!" Eric Church

Offline slikwilli420

  • Posts: 191
Totally agreed. At that point, I might look into studs that are permanently set into the tree with a recessed nut for the pinch. That way you would never bother the threads in the aluminum and still be able to set a high torque over and over without fear of tearing up threads.

What say you Tuna-a, taking the plunge? Lets get something designed!