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Author Topic: Yamaha rd350 Road Racer Liquid Cooled!!  (Read 53534 times)

Online ridesolo

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Re: Yamaha rd350 road racer
« Reply #120 on: Aug 11, 2016, 22:39:46 »
Wow, great deal on that brake.  Is it luck or clean living?  Hmmm, must be luck.   ;D
“Fight on and fly on to the last drop of blood and the last drop of fuel, to the last beat of the heart.”
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This is cooking away out in the shop:
'75 Honda CL378: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=56547.0

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This one is FINALLY done: (!)
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Online Hurco550

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Re: Yamaha rd350 road racer
« Reply #121 on: Aug 11, 2016, 22:43:09 »
Since I lost some pieces when I parted it out, I'm looking for a few gt250 brake bits as well...

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=71151.0
"If you want safety and sanity don't mess around with choppers to begin with and don't come crying to me for recommending something that broke down the line. You're going to be the "builder" so use your own judgment and build to you own personal levels of safety and sanity." - Chopper Handbook
1988 tw200, the swamp donkey: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=75455.0
1975 RD350 Road Racer: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70652.msg833688#msg833688
1976 GT250 Rebuild: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=64973.new#new
Full Custom Pit Bike: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66954.new#new
"much ingenuity with a little money is more profitable and amusing than much money without ingenuity" - Arnold Bennet

Online Hurco550

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Re: Yamaha rd350 road racer
« Reply #122 on: Aug 11, 2016, 22:51:15 »
Wow, great deal on that brake.  Is it luck or clean living?  Hmmm, must be luck.   ;D
Lol yeah, I'm thinking luck
"If you want safety and sanity don't mess around with choppers to begin with and don't come crying to me for recommending something that broke down the line. You're going to be the "builder" so use your own judgment and build to you own personal levels of safety and sanity." - Chopper Handbook
1988 tw200, the swamp donkey: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=75455.0
1975 RD350 Road Racer: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70652.msg833688#msg833688
1976 GT250 Rebuild: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=64973.new#new
Full Custom Pit Bike: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66954.new#new
"much ingenuity with a little money is more profitable and amusing than much money without ingenuity" - Arnold Bennet

Offline J-Rod10

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Re: Yamaha rd350 road racer
« Reply #123 on: Aug 11, 2016, 22:58:56 »
Here is how I run my cable set up.
Simple, clean, and it works.

Online Hurco550

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Re: Yamaha rd350 road racer
« Reply #124 on: Aug 11, 2016, 22:59:56 »
That's really similar to how I was planning to go with it
"If you want safety and sanity don't mess around with choppers to begin with and don't come crying to me for recommending something that broke down the line. You're going to be the "builder" so use your own judgment and build to you own personal levels of safety and sanity." - Chopper Handbook
1988 tw200, the swamp donkey: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=75455.0
1975 RD350 Road Racer: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70652.msg833688#msg833688
1976 GT250 Rebuild: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=64973.new#new
Full Custom Pit Bike: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66954.new#new
"much ingenuity with a little money is more profitable and amusing than much money without ingenuity" - Arnold Bennet

Offline Sav0r

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Re: Yamaha rd350 road racer
« Reply #125 on: Aug 12, 2016, 15:09:07 »
Here is how I run my cable set up.
Simple, clean, and it works.

That's tidy!
Sav0r the adventure.

Visit www.chrislivengood.net to get more information on my RD350 dubbed Mia Wallace as well as my other projects and snafus.

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Offline jpmobius

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Re: Yamaha rd350 road racer
« Reply #126 on: Aug 12, 2016, 17:02:50 »
Remember to keep your pedal to crank arm length ratio the same as stock if you wish to keep the same pressure and pedal travel as original.  Also, keep in mind that the crank arm can be rotated to any position to accommodate good cable routing.  Design your cable routing with as few bends as possible.  It will function much better and last much longer.  Don't design your set up to accommodate an existing off the shelf cable unless it is virtually the exact thing you want.  Design your system and then make it (or have it made) the correct length cable to fit it.  Making cables is pretty easy if you start with an existing cable like the factory Suzuki part and simply shorten it to the correct length.  This also allows you to potentially select a new cable end that might be better or easier for your design.  You should silver solder the new end to ensure its strength - it is a brake after all.  And when creating your set up be sure to set it up ideally for the suspension at normal ride height and them move the suspension through its full range of motion to make sure the cable is able to flex smoothly to any position.  There is usually a compromise between making the shortest, straightest cable/routing and having good geometry through the full range of suspension travel.  With a little care you can have both.
Mobius


On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66498.0

Offline jpmobius

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Re: Yamaha rd350 road racer
« Reply #127 on: Aug 12, 2016, 17:44:43 »
Found a couple of pics of that same brake that show a bit more of the construction.  I didn't want to weld or bolt a cable carrier to my drum backing plate (excellent job on finding the (nearly) bolt on Suzuki replacement!) so I fabricated the small arm between the axle and torque arm to hold it.  It's all aluminum and really light as it is quite small.  The cable is a stock Yamaha part on the brake end but I can't remember from what bike.  The pedal end is cutoff to the length I needed, and I think the socket fitting that holds the housing and bolts to the peg mount is also from the same original cable.  I cut the threaded section from a bolt that fits the rod end I used and bored a hole through it and silver soldered it to the cable.  Pretty simple and the cable will part before the soldered connection will give up so it is very strong.  I also made a steel bracket to mount the actual cable to mostly to make it small.  As I recall the aluminum versions I thought up were too big and chunky looking so I used steel which is likely about as heavy being very small.  The steel is also vastly more durable for wear and won't eventually fatigue like aluminum.  The stop for the pedal "up" position is fixed because I carefully located where I soldered the threaded rod to it so when the brake is not applied, the cable retracts completely into the housing and the threaded rod stops the cable from retracting any further and also seals up (sort of) the housing.  The pedal height is adjustable by adjusting how far the rod end is threaded on the the cable end.  The pedal rotates on a pair of small ball bearings pressed into the foot rest bracket.  I got tired of pedals getting sloppy after a lot of use and these are still very precise with no discernable play.  The pegs are modified off the shelf Bates folding pegs.  Abominably heavy, but the pivots and stops wear like iron (well they are!).  I really hate droopy foot pegs so I was willing to suffer the weight penalty (It is a street bike) but now a days you likely can find a slick off the shelf aluminum part.
Mobius


On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66498.0

Offline teazer

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Re: Yamaha rd350 road racer
« Reply #128 on: Aug 12, 2016, 18:34:54 »
That's a nice set up, but is that a TD/TZ swingarm I see hiding in there?

Offline jpmobius

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Re: Yamaha rd350 road racer
« Reply #129 on: Aug 12, 2016, 19:43:03 »
That's a sharp eye you have sir.  TR3 if memory serves.
Mobius


On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66498.0