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Author Topic: RD400 - Back from the Dead  (Read 14482 times)

Offline goldy

  • Posts: 397
Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #100 on: Aug 21, 2017, 17:32:56 »
That's looking really nice!Some top quality work there. :D
1948 Norton ES2
1955 AJS 20B
1956 Triumph TRW
1968 Triumph T100 special
1969 Norton Commando
1975 XS650 Yamaha

Offline jpmobius

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #101 on: Aug 21, 2017, 22:33:05 »
Try bleeding the brake fluid at the banjo bolt at the MC.  It is messy, so get lots of protection.  If the action is not confidence inspiring, there is air.  Possibly you will have to continue bleeding air out of the caliper, but my money is on air at the MC itself.  My process is barbaric, but quick, easy and works 100% of the time so far (in hundreds of applications at least).  For this bike, fill with brake fluid and after stuffing crazy amounts of paper towels around the caliper crack the bleed screw.  Hold your finger over the outlet of the bleed screw and pump the lever.  Use your finger like a one way valve on the bleeder.  After a few pumps, and there is no need to coordinate the person pumping with the person bleeding - just give it a few full slow pumps and don't worry about sucking air back on the down stroke, your finger will keep that from happening.  Close the bleeder and bleed the banjo bolt at the MC.  All should be fine if the MC was maintained with fluid.  I use basically the same method on everything with hydraulic brakes.  Cars take about 15 minutes with all new brakes, MC and dry lines.  Messy, but not really much more than with drain lines, collection bottles, pumps etc.  And the only thing to clean is the spill and vehicle which is tiny if you are careful.  I have NEVER needed a vacuum pump or had to "back fill" any brake system on any kind of vehicle - though I have had some stubborn cooling systems !

Lovely job your doing here - keep it coming!
« Last Edit: Aug 21, 2017, 22:37:14 by jpmobius »
Mobius


On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66498.0

Offline AimlessMoto

  • Posts: 156
  • Blood, sweat and beers.
Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #102 on: Aug 22, 2017, 11:54:23 »
Try bleeding the brake fluid at the banjo bolt at the MC.  It is messy, so get lots of protection.  If the action is not confidence inspiring, there is air.  Possibly you will have to continue bleeding air out of the caliper, but my money is on air at the MC itself.  My process is barbaric, but quick, easy and works 100% of the time so far (in hundreds of applications at least).  For this bike, fill with brake fluid and after stuffing crazy amounts of paper towels around the caliper crack the bleed screw.  Hold your finger over the outlet of the bleed screw and pump the lever.  Use your finger like a one way valve on the bleeder.  After a few pumps, and there is no need to coordinate the person pumping with the person bleeding - just give it a few full slow pumps and don't worry about sucking air back on the down stroke, your finger will keep that from happening.  Close the bleeder and bleed the banjo bolt at the MC.  All should be fine if the MC was maintained with fluid.  I use basically the same method on everything with hydraulic brakes.  Cars take about 15 minutes with all new brakes, MC and dry lines.  Messy, but not really much more than with drain lines, collection bottles, pumps etc.  And the only thing to clean is the spill and vehicle which is tiny if you are careful.  I have NEVER needed a vacuum pump or had to "back fill" any brake system on any kind of vehicle - though I have had some stubborn cooling systems !

Lovely job your doing here - keep it coming!

Thanks! I tried your suggestion last night. I did take the caliper off first and ensure both pistons moved when hitting the brakes... then I back-flushed out the bleeder instead of up the line to the MC. I then filled the MC and pumped it a bunch to get as my of the little air bubbles out as possible... THEN I started your method. The "finger over the bleeder" doesn't make much sense. I tried, and tried, but couldn't get any pressure built up it would simply push past the threads in the bleeder or my finger.

I put a hose back on the bleeder and bled as normal... 10 pumps, crack the bleeder, watch for bubbles. Not many if any came out.

I then did the MC bleeding as you suggested. 10-15 full pumps, crack the banjo, get sprayed, close the banjo, repeat.

This did firm up the lever a bit, but I can still pull it back to the bars, all be it slightly stiffer than before. I'm wondering if the MC has more throw than the bars allow... I may try to take the MC off and mount it to the center of an old handlebar I have to try and get more throw out of the lever. It may be what's preventing all the air coming out of the MC. I've heard a lot of people fix this problem by drilling and tapping the lever to install an adjuster bolt in the tab that touches the plunger in the MC...


Offline kiki.o

  • Posts: 13
Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #103 on: Aug 23, 2017, 16:49:25 »

Maybe I have missed the info, but, what brand of color did you use for engine painting? Great work so far!

Offline AimlessMoto

  • Posts: 156
  • Blood, sweat and beers.
Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #104 on: Aug 24, 2017, 08:25:37 »
I originally used satin black PJ1 epoxy, but it came out too dull, so I went over it again with DupliColor Engine paint in "Ford Gloss Black".

The wiring is 100%! I was able to fix the dent in my speedo housing with some strategic punch work and a skim coat of bondo. Not terrible, but perfect from about 3 feet away (which is all you need).

Headlight back on, trying to over-night bleed the brakes again. I may have a MC issue at this point, luckily I have a spare.

Just waiting on the adapter for my dial gauge to come in so I can time the thing and set the points!


Offline SONIC.

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #105 on: Aug 24, 2017, 10:27:47 »
Looking good!
Makes me regret selling my RD400

Offline AimlessMoto

  • Posts: 156
  • Blood, sweat and beers.
Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #106 on: Aug 25, 2017, 08:23:26 »
Last night I was able to pull the baffles, check for carbon (hardly anything in there), set the points gap to .014", set the timing to .070" (1.8mm) BTDC, put the new petcock on the tank (had to wait to source some fiber washers, found them at the hardware store for .20c!), and threw some fresh gas in it....

It started 3rd kick! Needs some adjustments, but it runs!

Online Maritime

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #107 on: Aug 25, 2017, 08:51:57 »
Nice work, back from the dead for sure.
The GL Rebirth: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=68337.0
CX500 Low budget Bobber : http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=43617.0
"Beer makes you feel the way you ought to feel without beer" -Henry Lawson
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Offline stroker crazy

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #108 on: Aug 25, 2017, 18:49:42 »
It started 3rd kick!

Good work!

Crazy
“Ride like the Wind” W.H.

Offline goldy

  • Posts: 397
Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #109 on: Aug 26, 2017, 07:25:11 »
Very nice work, you should be proud of the results!

Now for some riding and tuning!  :D
 
1948 Norton ES2
1955 AJS 20B
1956 Triumph TRW
1968 Triumph T100 special
1969 Norton Commando
1975 XS650 Yamaha