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Author Topic: Ton up SR250 - a cafe racer by the numbers: 100mph, 100kg, 30hp  (Read 16642 times)

Offline The Jimbonaut

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Re: Ton up SR250 - a cafe racer by the numbers: 100mph, 100kg, 30hp
« Reply #140 on: Aug 06, 2018, 13:49:18 »
That looks great. Think I read somewhere that this effect is called drillium which is itself a cool word. Is there any issues with water getting in and affecting the shoes/drum?


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Offline MiniatureNinja

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Re: Ton up SR250 - a cafe racer by the numbers: 100mph, 100kg, 30hp
« Reply #141 on: Aug 06, 2018, 17:50:46 »
That looks great. Think I read somewhere that this effect is called drillium which is itself a cool word. Is there any issues with water getting in and affecting the shoes/drum?


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i've only ever seen "drillium" used in the bicycle world - but I mean really... we just attach spinning explosion powered heat generators to our two wheeled death machines
'75 Honda CB360 - thread

Offline Sav0r

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Re: Ton up SR250 - a cafe racer by the numbers: 100mph, 100kg, 30hp
« Reply #142 on: Aug 06, 2018, 18:44:14 »
Weakening holes is what we always referred to them as in the race car world.

Nice work though, it looks good.
Sav0r the adventure.

Visit www.chrislivengood.net to get more information on my RD350 dubbed Mia Wallace as well as my other projects and snafus.

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Offline JadusMotorcycleParts

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Re: Ton up SR250 - a cafe racer by the numbers: 100mph, 100kg, 30hp
« Reply #143 on: Aug 10, 2018, 10:07:07 »
Weakening holes is what we always referred to them as in the race car world.

Nice work though, it looks good.

Haha Yes!  I have heard that too.  Gets pretty dicey if you start drilling up structural sheet metal in a car.  People can sometimes miss the fact that the sheet metal itself does a lot for the structural integrity and not just the main structural elements.

I think in this case there will not be too many extreme forces on the parts.  The only boss that could be under stress is the brake lever wire perch - but I will be replacing this with an alternative system anyways.

In response to @The Jimbonaut about water...  If this was going to be a daily rider I actually wouldn't do this.  It was quite a lot of work for very little weight loss and 'looks' and it will let more water and dust in, yes.  However, because this is pretty much a purpose built machine, I won't be riding it often and will only be out in the sunshine  ;) ;D

Also drillium, lol.

Offline Sav0r

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Re: Ton up SR250 - a cafe racer by the numbers: 100mph, 100kg, 30hp
« Reply #144 on: Aug 10, 2018, 12:44:14 »
You certainly have to pick and chose which places you weaken.

I've been meaning to model up the brake plate for my RD and then make some configuration for lightening it via CNC. The major benefit there is that I can pick and chose what gets removed and do so in fairly inorganic ways. Hopefully that would result in a lighter piece than just drilling holes but with less weakening. That's the idea anyways, and it's pretty far down on the list of things to do, I may never get to it.

In regards to the water issue, I doubt it's much of an issue. Drum brakes just aren't all that sensitive in my experience. My vintage Formuala Vee is drum brakes on all four corners and the braking character really doesn't change from wet to dry. Now when the axle seals leak it's a totally different story.
Sav0r the adventure.

Visit www.chrislivengood.net to get more information on my RD350 dubbed Mia Wallace as well as my other projects and snafus.

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Offline JadusMotorcycleParts

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Re: Ton up SR250 - a cafe racer by the numbers: 100mph, 100kg, 30hp
« Reply #145 on: Aug 11, 2018, 02:50:46 »
I have slowly chipped away at building up the wheels this week, or I should say truing.  I had built the rear wheel last week (but had not trued it) but then I decided to try and build the front wheel and film it.  What a nightmare.  It's really hard to instruct a complex process!  I ended up starting from scratch 3 times and the build itself took about 4 hours hahaha.  Then truing took at least an hour per wheel.  But it is just a time consuming process.  Very rewarding though!  I ended up getting both wheels to within 1mm lateral freeplay and 1-1.5mm axial (manual limits are 2mm).

Also, check out my makeshift truing stands!  This actually worked out really well because you don't need to measure or think about hub-rim offset, rather you can just measure from the edge of the rim to the forks/swing-arm and adjust it so it is centered. 

I'll get a shop to mount the rubber and balance the tyres  :)