collapse

www.dimecitycycles.com

https://www.townmoto.com/collections/vanson-leathers


www.restocycle.com

www.CITYLIMITMOTO.com

www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com

www.bisonmotorsports.com

www.speedmotoco.com

www.lostapostlejewelry.com

www.cognitomoto.com

www.sparckmoto.com

www.Moto-Madness.com

www.pistonsociety.com

www.steeltowngarage.com


Author Topic: 1970 CL175 Oil Filter Cover and Oil Filter Removal  (Read 812 times)

Offline jakec

  • Posts: 4
1970 CL175 Oil Filter Cover and Oil Filter Removal
« on: Sep 18, 2017, 15:54:50 »
Hi guys. First post here after reading in the shadows for a long time. I'm running into an issue with this Cl175 I'm trying to get running. I am attempting to do an oil change and I need to get the 6mm cross screw out of the center of the filter rotor/cup. When I try to back out the screw, it just turns the whole motor over via the crank. I've read in a thread on the Honda Twins forum that you just need to bang the shit out of that 6mm cross (with an impact driver) until it's ready to come out. Is this right? Seems like the rotational energy of the impact driver would just dissipate through the motor. (Motor is in gear but will still turn with enough force, like me turning the screw driver). Right now the plan is to go home and start whacking... I have also read that you need a special tool but I don't want to take the rotor out, just the cup so I can remove the gunk.

My second question is with the oil filter cover, when I put it back on the crank case, which way should it point? When I took it off I didn't realize it was symmetrical. There is a little wishbone shape in the inside of the cap, that looks like it would distribute oil in two directions roughly 45* apart. my assumption would be that this wishbone should face up, so that the newly strained oil would be distributed upward. Am I correct?


Offline advCo

  • DTT BOTM WINNER
  • *
  • Posts: 2535
  • Nick Ol' Eye
    • adventur Studios
Re: 1970 CL175 Oil Filter Cover and Oil Filter Removal
« Reply #1 on: Sep 18, 2017, 16:40:27 »
Those cups are designed to be cleaned in place. IIRC the clutch needs to be removed to get the oil slinger out. You need to wedge between the idler and the clutch gears to stop everything from rotating. I use a penny, since the copper is soft and will not damage the gears.
"He broke the mirrors off his Cadillac, 'cause he doesn't like it looking like he looks back."

74 CB360 - Luna - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63294.0 - Sold
82 GS550L - Tracker-ish - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=67229.0 - Sold
74 XL350 - The Turd - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70252.0 - Sold
Suzuki FA50 "No-Ped" - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=71189.0
73 Suzuki RV125 -http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=73875.0
'97 BMW F650st - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=75732.0

Offline jakec

  • Posts: 4
Re: 1970 CL175 Oil Filter Cover and Oil Filter Removal
« Reply #2 on: Sep 18, 2017, 17:02:56 »
Thanks for the reply. I do not think I need to remove the clutch, though. There is nothing in the way of the filter. However I can see how you would hold the clutch steady with something to keep everything from turning over... I tried that with one of the 10mm bolts on the outside of the clutch but that didn't work. I was thinking that it might work to hold something still but I just couldn't' figure out what would work. Can you expand on what you're suggesting? I can't picture it.

edit: I think I get what you mean. When I try to unscrew the 6mm screw, it turns the filter counterclockwise into the clutch. you're saying to put a penny in those gears to stop it from spinning. Got it.
« Last Edit: Sep 18, 2017, 23:23:38 by jakec »

Offline XS750AU

  • DTT BOTM WINNER
  • *
  • Posts: 416
Re: 1970 CL175 Oil Filter Cover and Oil Filter Removal
« Reply #3 on: Sep 18, 2017, 23:58:29 »
Rather than putting pennies in the transmission and loading up on one tooth, you will get a similar result by putting the transmission into gear (prefer 3rd or4th) and then locking the rear brake on with a cable tie. There will be more lash (free play) but it should be enough to get the shock driver working more efficiently than with a turning transmission. Don't use the shock driver to replace the screw, the locked rear wheel will be enough resistance with a normal driver.
“Engineering is the art of being approximately right rather than exactly wrong.”

Yamaha XS750-2D
Yamaha XS896
Husaberg FE550
Yamaha TT250
Yamaha IT200N

Offline jakec

  • Posts: 4
Re: 1970 CL175 Oil Filter Cover and Oil Filter Removal
« Reply #4 on: Sep 19, 2017, 01:45:42 »
I had already banged on it a bit the night before with the impact driver. I tried the penny trick mentioned above and I barely had to torque it a tiny bit before it came free. Overall a great piece of advice. Probably would have worked without havin whacked it the night before.

Offline jakec

  • Posts: 4
Re: 1970 CL175 Oil Filter Cover and Oil Filter Removal
« Reply #5 on: Sep 19, 2017, 12:42:48 »
P.S. does anyone know what the loop of tube on the bottom of the CL175 gas tank is for? There are two outlets near the back of the tank. A hose comes off one side, wraps under the spine of the tank, and connects back to the other side forming a closed loop.

Offline Rider52

  • DTT SUPPORTER
  • *
  • Posts: 408
Re: 1970 CL175 Oil Filter Cover and Oil Filter Removal
« Reply #6 on: Sep 19, 2017, 15:19:05 »
That is how gas is transferred from one side of the tank to the other.
Projects
74 Yamaha TX650
Sweep the Floor Project
3 Assorted Honda CL 72 scramblers in a million pieces
3 Harleys in constant state of sorrow and a Buell
1978 Yamaha Chappy 80 burning up the highway
Cut my motor in half Sportster to Shortster