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Author Topic: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build  (Read 12387 times)

Offline huck_finn

  • Posts: 167
    • 1974 CB360
Re: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build
« Reply #60 on: Feb 18, 2018, 16:14:54 »
It looks like onyx has a heat deflection rating of just over 290 f (145 c).

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 13199
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build
« Reply #61 on: Feb 19, 2018, 17:01:33 »
290f is probably pushing the limit as there is a lot of heat radiated from cylinder head. Saying that though, 'plate' will be around 6~7 inches away from head and be somewhat shielded by carbs. I knew I should have put an intake probe on 378 motor   ;D
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline Sonreir

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Re: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build
« Reply #62 on: Feb 21, 2018, 11:23:07 »
You should be OK. There's enough air flow that you won't even get close to 290°.
Sparck Moto - http://www.sparckmoto.com

Audaces fortuna iuvat.

1977 Honda CJ360 - Café SOS - Stage One™, Café SOS - Stage Two™
1976 Puch Maxi - APuchalypse Now
Suzi T500 Cobra Resto

Custom Gauge Graphics
Custom Wiring Harnesses

DTT Red, White, and/or Black 360 Club - Better than those Blue guys

Offline Coopacoopacoopa

  • Posts: 71
Re: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build
« Reply #63 on: Feb 21, 2018, 12:04:38 »
Kinda sounds like something wasn't quite prepped right if the paint kept running on him. Can't say he didn't try, 3 times over I would have had enough too.  :o

Coming along nicely! 

Offline huck_finn

  • Posts: 167
    • 1974 CB360
Re: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build
« Reply #64 on: Mar 06, 2018, 13:50:42 »
Been slow going the past few weeks. On my top clamp I had to use a sanding drum on the end of my drill to grind down where the anodizing process decreased the inside diameter. It was only about .10 mm when measuring left to right. Front to back it was dead on 33mm. And just in case anybody is curious how it grips hold of my forks, I am adding a short video to show how it tightens as well as the clamp used to do so.





(The video should play in my flickr account if it doesn't want to here)








And I freaking snapped the front stud bolt on my right fork when tightening down the front wheel - torque wrench was set to spec, rear bolt didn't give me any problems - but the front just snapped. I have replacements on order while I try to get the broken one out of there. It is going to take some heat.







Offline Sonreir

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Re: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build
« Reply #65 on: Mar 06, 2018, 13:52:59 »
I highly recommend a stud extractor and impact wrench.
Sparck Moto - http://www.sparckmoto.com

Audaces fortuna iuvat.

1977 Honda CJ360 - Café SOS - Stage One™, Café SOS - Stage Two™
1976 Puch Maxi - APuchalypse Now
Suzi T500 Cobra Resto

Custom Gauge Graphics
Custom Wiring Harnesses

DTT Red, White, and/or Black 360 Club - Better than those Blue guys

Offline MiniatureNinja

  • Posts: 480
Re: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build
« Reply #66 on: Mar 06, 2018, 14:17:41 »
make sure you are tightening the front bolt first, its the one that sits flush - the rear should have a gap and is tightened AFTER the front one is torqued.
'75 Honda CB360 - thread

Offline huck_finn

  • Posts: 167
    • 1974 CB360
Re: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build
« Reply #67 on: Mar 06, 2018, 18:28:39 »
I highly recommend a stud extractor and impact wrench.

If I can't get it out tonight - I am going to bring up to work and see if the machine shop can't get it out for me.

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 13199
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build
« Reply #68 on: Mar 07, 2018, 17:22:59 »
That stud looks like it had been stretched previously, there is still slight 'necking' showing in picture.
Remove fork top nut and get the area around stud real hot, it may be Loctited in. I think temp needs to be minimum of 230f ?
If it's hot enough, a vice grip will loosen it up, you shouldn't need to re-drill anything but a good 8x1.25 tap should be used to clean threads
 A good stud extractor is EXPENSIVE, the only one worth a damn is the Snap-On CG500, I paid almost $110.00 for mine in 2005~6 , wish I'd seen one 30 yrs ago would have saved me a lot of grief on various motors 
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline irk miller

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Re: 1974 CB360 - first bike/build
« Reply #69 on: Mar 07, 2018, 18:40:29 »
My stud extractor cost $10.  That thing is at least an inch above the surface.  No need for specialized tools.