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Author Topic: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build  (Read 37783 times)

Offline Alex jb

  • Posts: 339
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #210 on: Apr 21, 2018, 18:51:32 »
I did exactly that, got an eBay replacement that was more beat up than my top tree and modified that.

I used the 2 Pac metal stuff that over here in UK is called quicksteel or quickalloy to fill in after roughing off the excess.


Iím envious of your alloy polishing skills too!

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 13412
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #211 on: Apr 21, 2018, 21:29:09 »
they aren't on the friction surface so no issues with wear
however, those holes will allow dust and water and crap to get in there - which isn't good for anything

they are there mostly because I have been intent on drilling holes in every possible surface on the bike :)

The holes will let heat out and let brake run slightly cooler (plus, cool off faster)
Shock mounts look real good, ton of work to get back to 'almost' stock. It's something most people won't notice or even realise has been done but it does look 'race'  8)

Oh yea! that will be another thing all together - not looking forward to all the tuning that will be required

You never know, might get lucky (some people never adjusted anything on carbs and others only adjusted fuel screw)
 There are some very quick '360's' out there  ;)
« Last Edit: Apr 21, 2018, 21:32:50 by crazypj »
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline MiniatureNinja

  • Posts: 521
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #212 on: Apr 22, 2018, 13:21:12 »
The holes will let heat out and let brake run slightly cooler (plus, cool off faster)
Shock mounts look real good, ton of work to get back to 'almost' stock. It's something most people won't notice or even realise has been done but it does look 'race'  8)

You never know, might get lucky (some people never adjusted anything on carbs and others only adjusted fuel screw)
 There are some very quick '360's' out there  ;)

I do tend to use the rear brake a lot in town, as the front brake is really good (no need for upgrades on these bikes) and sometimes I like to slow down at a reasonable pace... so i just ease on the rear... so that should help.
as for the shock mounts - I have learned my lesson on this... they were probably just dandy to begin with and I should have left them alone... but I wanted to bring them up to the frame as tight as possible to get a little more travel out of the rear end, and the correct shock angle for the longer swing arm (so the lines match up with the frame tubes) I should have just left it alone but live and learn - now it's "custom!"

the bike was plenty quick before, it'll be a beast now! Also welding an 02 bung into the exhaust for some dyno tuning. I have no idea how to to do it but I'm sure someone does - that will be a ways down the road I think - gonna be some plug chops or color tuning in the mean-time
'75 Honda CB360 - thread

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 13412
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #213 on: Apr 22, 2018, 13:51:06 »
Dyno run with correctly set up O2 sensor plus 5 band 'probe'  stck in the end will give so much information it makes fine tuning carbs real easy and is worth the cost. I would get at least a few hundred miles on it first (although I built first 378 and had it running 12,000rpm on 3rd fire up and less than 20 miles on it) It allowed me to sort out the major carb mods I had done (took 2 sets of carbs in with different modifications, I know what doesn't work  ;D ) I've been fine tuning ever since but have 'basic' set up pretty good. Exhaust length and diameter is critical when stock air box is removed and the reason different secondary main jets may be required. The change in fuel formulation a few years ago (E10 everywhere  ::) ) needed slightly different set up (float level and bigger secondary main jet ~up from 110 to 115) Running 'real' gas without ethanol needs smaller secondary main plus lower float level (19.5~20mm)
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline trek97

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #214 on: Apr 23, 2018, 06:58:27 »
Also welding an 02 bung into the exhaust for some dyno tuning. I have no idea how to to do it but I'm sure someone does





12 O'clock position, as far from both the head and open air as possible,  (mine measures approx 28" from head and 22" from fresh air.) do your best to ensure there are no leaks in the system.



Wurth assembly paste is good. 

 https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Exhaust-System-Fitting-Assembly/dp/B06XWP61RM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524478093&sr=8-2&keywords=wurth+exhaust+assembly+paste

« Last Edit: Apr 23, 2018, 07:09:39 by trek97 »

Offline MiniatureNinja

  • Posts: 521
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #215 on: Apr 23, 2018, 13:26:07 »
cool thanks! my Uncle builds stock car engines - and said a trick they use to determine where to place a sensor is to use a crayon and draw a line along the header pipe - where the crayon stops burning is where you should place it - Now this guy is old school... probably doesn't even know how to log into a computer but any input on that? I guess it's just important for the exhaust gasses to fully mature before the sensor

will be using 1 3/8" OD pipe for the first 15-18 inches, and then 1 1/2" OD for the rest - got some u-bends from PJs link (thanks!) and then am gonna use the TC bros kit for the rest
'75 Honda CB360 - thread

Offline MiniatureNinja

  • Posts: 521
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #216 on: Apr 26, 2018, 17:33:09 »
what amp fuse to use for ignition? I have 1  circuit for the coils that ONLY runs coils so is 7amp good?
the main circuit for lights and Neutral Safety and StopLight swiches will be a 10amp - everything is LED so no real load on those, just protecting the switches


EDIT:

I bought some connectors from Sparack (vintage connections) a 4-pin 2.8mm (for the Neutral Safety Indicator and Stop light Switch) and a 2-pin 2.8mm (for the Starter Button)

This is the wiring diagram I have so far



and now digital with color codes:



later when I add headlights and a horn i will have to add another 4pin connector for those wires - the last time I did wiring on this bike due to the fire I had tons of connectors and wires and I really want to simplify this thing but i realize with things like starters and lights it really adds a lot to the deal. race bike would just need 1 wire from a toggle to the Coils.
« Last Edit: Apr 29, 2018, 17:02:30 by MiniatureNinja »
'75 Honda CB360 - thread

Offline MiniatureNinja

  • Posts: 521
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #217 on: Apr 27, 2018, 20:27:48 »
Thanks pj for the adapters! They look great. Got a fancy photo for the web if you wanna sling them I'll talk to my partner about buying some in bulk from ya to stick it to the other guy

'75 Honda CB360 - thread

Offline MiniatureNinja

  • Posts: 521
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #218 on: Apr 29, 2018, 17:55:04 »


just ordered an M-lock

bike isn't really unsecured ever except when I am in the store or something, and we don't have a problem with bike thefts... I realize it only takes about 45 seconds for people to lift a sub 300lb bike into a van but this mlock will give me more peace of mind over just a toggle switch
« Last Edit: Apr 29, 2018, 23:30:58 by MiniatureNinja »
'75 Honda CB360 - thread

Offline teazer

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Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Reply #219 on: May 01, 2018, 00:46:39 »
Q: why the relay before the starter solenoid?  The sloenoid is a heavy duty relay.  You should not need a second one there.  Use it instead just for the coils.

O2 sensors: It seems counter intuitive, but when the bike is running we know we can feel the pressure of exhaust coming out but what we don't feel is the fresh air pulsing back in.  That's why short pipes show up as lean on the Lambda sensor and that's not accurate. 

On one two stroke we tested on the dyno with a sniffer only part way into the tail pipe - it read lean even when it was clearly too rich.  Mechanical baffles got in the way.